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And bidden all with magic wand,
To all men, might by one upward
O’erclouding all? I cannot tell,
SCANDINAVIAN SKETCHES. HAVING travelled much in Sweden, Norway, and Denmark, I think an occasional note from the record of my wanderings in those countries may be acceptable to the readers of this periodical, but I can only give them in somewhat fragmentary form, as a busy man has little time to keep a regular journal-from the excursions of one summer I however glean the following:
Desiring to see a Swedish Farm, I took the opportunity of a holiday-Whitsun Monday, called here the second Pentecost day-to visit a large farm about a dozen miles from Malmö; I was personally unknown to the proprietor Herr Inspector Jönsson, (i.e. steward or bailiff,) and took the liberty of paying the visit only on account of being acquainted with one of his daughters, one of the most amiable and gentle girls I have ever met. I was, however, received with the utmost possible hospitality, one after another the numerous members of the family came with frankness and cordiality to salute the stranger. And although the fact of my being a foreigner was a matter of great curiosity, to the younger members especially, native politeness caused them to conceal any appearance of wonder at my manners or language. Fru Jönsson, having come to bid me welcome, slipped out of the room after a minute or two, for, as I was unexpected, their early dinner was over, but without saying a word an excellent meal was served in a few minutes. The most remarkable point in a genuine Swedish dinner is, that soup is the last instead of the first dish. When, however, as is often the case, it is made of prunes, cherries, plums or other fruit, it has somewhat the appearance of a dessert. Very general, also, is the custom of drinking a small brandy glass of Bränvin before dinner and supper ; Bränvin is whiskey, but far more palatable than either Scotch or Irish whiskey. Immediately after dinner, we drank a cup of coffee.
After walking awhile in the garden or rather pleasure grounds, I was taken to see the cow houses, stables, and other arrangements of the farm. Good order and cleanliness prevailed everywhere; the cows stood face to face in two long rows, separated by a raised platform on which was a railway for the waggon that carried a supply of food for the herd. The farm house was but one story high, but very long, looking like a row of cottages in a country village, except that there were but two doors. There were two rooms in the width of the house ; the ceiling was low, but the rooms were by no means small; one indeed, being the whole width of the house, was really large. As passages are here almost unknown, every room communicates literally with every other, there is also another door between every back and front room. The young ladies and their governess vied with each other, in their anxiety to amuse the foreigner by their performances on the piano and otherwise. The shyness of Peter, the youngest child, and at the same time his wish to see the outlandish Englishman, was very amusing; for some time he would not venture into the room, only peeping in
when he thought I was talking, and would not perceive him. I was urged to pass the night with them, but other engagements prevented my doing so. Supper, therefore, was made ready about 7 o'clock, I thought the table extremely neatly laid, with its home-made, very white tablecloth and napkins. On the farm, ilax is grown, spun, woven and bleached for the family use, both for napery and for dress. In the centre of the table stood the decanter of Bränvin with glasses round it, then plates shaped as segments of a circle, so that they could be laid close to each other as a circle round the decanter. These contained the various
supper dishes, cut in slices where necessary. Grace was said (or almost sung) by the youngest child capable of doing it, all standing. Only myself and my host sat at table, the rest sat or stood anywhere about the room. Every one helped himself without ceremony to what he chose. The meal was finished with tea which is seldom used in Sweden, though coffee is very largely consumed. Late in the evening, the hospitality of this amiable Swedish family was completed by one of the young gentlemen driving me home in their phaeton. Hospitality towards strangers seems indeed to be a very general and pleasing trait in the character of the Swedes.
Soon after this visit I was obliged to go to Copenhagen, and while there I devoted myself to a special survey of the churches in Copenhagen.
Not reckoning the chapel of an order of nuns, there is but one church which, as one learns from the sign above the door, is sacred to CHRIST the Redeemer, unless one adds the chapel of the English Embassy. The Church of the Redeemer is a quasi classical building of no pretensions whatever, unless one should except the west front, or what is as nearly west as the direction of the street has permitted. The most, however, is made of the inside. The chancel is a semicircular apse; in the centre, above the high altar, is painted the Redeemer sitting on a throne in Judgment, and bearing His cross, the sign of redemption; on either side sit the twelve Apostles, His coassessors, "judging the twelve tribes of Israel.” Above Him is "the Ancient of Days," the Eternal FATHER, and between these the Holy Ghost in the form of a Dove. In a lower row are seven saints, viz., the Blessed Virgin Mary on a throne; on her right hand stand SS. Ansgarius, Canute Duke and Martyr, and Ketillus Provost of Viborg; on her left SS. Canute King and Martyr, William Abbat of Eskilda, and Birgitta, widow. All these figures are larger than life, the glorias (which are all correctly painted) of the Apostles have the names of each