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Invented by Miss Marpoint Engraved for La 11 Ass math. 28 127 Published Oct 1810.

for Cheltenham, we were favoured with all the paraphernalia she had prepared for her numerous employers belonging to the higher walks of life; and now, on her return, we are enabled to lay before our readers various new and unrivalled speci- || mens of her tasteful talents.

beautiful dress of Japanese ganze, which is worn over white gros-de-Naples: the gauze is of hermit brown, and is tastefully trimmed with the same, edged with narrow rouleaux of blush-coloured satin. Another half-dress is of the new Glasgow leno, which is much patronized by our nobility; the ground is white, with narrow stripes of Nakara, or wild poppy colour; and the trimming is embroidered with the same colour to correspond.

The new manufacture of Caledonian silk is likely to be universally adopted among the higher circles as a demi-saison dinner dress; indeed its firm texture seems likely to ensure its patronage next winter: it appears equally strong with the poplin, but has a more silky surface. These silks are in beautiful chequers of various colours on a white ground; but for the present season lilac, or pale green, is most prevalent.

There is but little alteration in the spencers and pelisses for out-door costume since our last; but for the carriage, the abovementioned lady has just produced a most beautiful Mary Stuart hat of white satin and blond, with a tassel d-la-Medicis over the left side: a quilling of blond, in the cornette style, should be worn under this || head-dress, to render it truly classical à-l'Antique. A small white spiral feather, with a drooping plume, finishes the hat; with which is worn a white satin spencer, ornamented with Castilian points edged with fine blond. The sea-side carriage bonnet is also much admired: it is composed of With white dresses the Grenada braces, fancy straw, intermingled with white satin: forming a beautiful coloured corsage, are it is finished at the edge with blond, and now in high favour; they display the concrowned with a tropic plume of straw tour of the waist and bust to the greatest colour. The summer Caledonian cap is advantage, and are the sole invention of also a favourite carriage head-dress; some Mrs. Bell and while we are on this subof these caps are of gossamer down velvet,ject we cannot forbear earnestly recoman entire new article, the colour of the full || mending her form-improving corsets, so blown peach blossom; these caps are finished by superb Highland plumes of white feathers. Another carriage hat, called the Swiss mountain hat, is well adapted || by its shape for shading the face in the open barouche: it is of white satin, gas lace, and two beautifully drooping white ostrich feathers.

Ladies, however, in their rural retreats, or at those places where the members of fashion assemble during the summer months, are often seen taking the wholesome exercise of walking. For the morning promenade, large clear muslin bonnets are very universal; they are ornamented with a small harvest bouquet. A Leghorn bonnet is also much in requisition for walking; it is trimmed at the edge with a quilling of broad blond, and crowned with a full bouquet of everlastings. Another bonnet is seen gracing the public walks, made of pearl-coloured spotted silk, with two rows of broad white blond at the edge, || and a bouquet of poppies and corn flowers on the right side.

For half dress we have remarked a very

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calculated to assist defect, and to set off the beauty of a symmetrical shape; in particular we recommend her Lucina Belt to every lady who expects to be hailed by the endearing title of a mother; this belt imparts ease, while it conceals, in some measure, the unavoidable protuberance. Corpulent ladies have also much improved their appearance by wearing these belts.

We must not forget to inform our fair readers of the slight changes which have taken place in the fashionable head-dresses. Morning cornettes are made of very fine lace, with a net caul, through which is run broad stripes of coloured ribbon; and a ribbon of the same colour dividing the double row of lace quilling next the face.

A beautiful evening dress of white and pink brocaded gauze, is much worn at the parties of the opulent, who are now on their marine excursions. This dress has a richly woven border, which is fancifully trimmed with quillings of gossamer blond. The body is trimmed to correspond, and the mancherons aux nœuds, are the prettiest that can be conceived: this is a dress well

calculated for the summer ball-room; and ladies walked out without a pelerine: let is often so adopted, with a head-dress styled me, however, tell you, as a warning to the Zephyrus diadem; the diadem formed your fair country women, that never before of small and large pearls, with a full plume || in Paris were pulmonary and nervous complaying over it, composed of pink and plaints so frequent. This fashion originated white real marabout feathers. in the reign of Louis XIV. as may be seen by the portraits of Ninon de l'Enclos, the Duchesse de Fontanges, and that of Madame de Sevigné; whose cousin, Bussy Rabutin, used to tell it was only on account of her arm being beautiful that she displayed it. I sincerely hope, however, that next winter will bring along with its rigour that modesty which can alone render a female desirable; and that as soon as ice and melons cease to be eaten, short sleeves will cease to be worn.

The marine turban cap is also a favourite head-dress for the public rooms or evening parties. It is of fine blond net and pink satin; the crown elegantly ornamented with the figure of a star-fish, in pink satin;|| the points surrounded by pearls: a full blown rose with two drooping crimped feathers au renard, finish this beautiful coiffure.

We are indebted this month to the taste of Miss Pierpoint for our Print of the English Evening Costume.

Cabinet of Taste;

OR MONTHLY COMPENDIUM OF FOREIGN
COSTUME.

By a Parisian Correspondent.

COSTUME OF PARIS.

If you look back to my letters, I think you will find each of them a complete chapter on hats: let Paris be full or empty, scorching under summer's sun, or freezing under winter's snows, the changes among the hats still continue to undergo their usual motley round.

I cannot say the same of our other outdoor covering; high dresses, with only a sautoir, or half-handkerchief, are still the prevailing mode; and these are of Cachemire silk, black lace, or embroidered muslin this fashion seems likely also to continue till the shivering fair one shall be obliged to resort to the more appropriate spencer, and comfortable pelisse. It is true that pelerines, buttoned before and trimmed round with muslin or ribbons in cockleshells, are worn by many ladies; the pelerines are made of muslin richly embroidered, and whether the gown is plain, striped, or spotted, the sleeves are worked in a pattern to correspond with that of the pelerine but why are these pelerines adopted? Because a lady cannot have a dress made high that has short sleeves; and never were short sleeves so much in favour. Nothing is to be seen but naked arms, and as the gowns fall off the shoulders, the bust would be entirely exposed if

You will say I am getting moral instead of modish; to the hats then, with all the celerity a fashion-monger should adopt.

Leghorn hats, for the morning walks, are simply tied down en marmotte, with a gauze handkerchief. Hats made of rolled paper have lately come into vogue; the rolls are about the size of a corn stalk, and are divided at equal distances in diamonds or chequers, or in stripes only held together by a thread: these hats are mostly of a lilac or a rose colour. Wreathes of flowers are placed round the crowns of bonnets; they are composed of Provence roses and blue daisies, or full blown cinnamon roses with bunches of white grapes. Other wreathes are seen composed of moss roses and various coloured daisies. The edges of the bonnets are trimmed with a quilling of net. Stripes of straw on bonnets of tulle, are much in requisition: these bonnets are extremely large. I saw a young lady, last Sunday, with a white muslin spencer that had short sleeves, and a thin sarsnet petticoat: she wore a little hat crowned with roses, the edge trimmed with ribbon in the form of cockleshells, and a plume of real marabout feathers. A lady who accompanied her had a blue silk hat, loaded with ears of corn; and under this hat I beheld one of the prettiest faces in the world. Several other ladies had straw hats ornamented with ears of coru.

Gauze hats, with rose-coloured crape linings, are very general; a broad ribbon, the colour of the lining, is generally the sole trimmings on such hats. Some are, however, bound with a broad piece of

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