pearls. Negligée necklace, and earrings of pearl. Bracelet glove-tops of hair fastened with pearls or cameo medallions. White satin shoes, with pale blue rosettes; carved ivory fan.

No. 2.-PUBLIC PROMENADE, OR SUMMER
VISITING DRESS.

Summer rose-coloured sarsuet slip under au India muslin robe, with a demi-train, trimmed round the border with fine muslin

Narrow

For carriage airings, when the mornings are somewhat chill, a pelisse is generally worn of a pale lavender, or purple evening primrose colour: the material is of the improved twilled sarsnet, equal in richness to, though of a still lighter appearance thau the French Levantine. This pelisse is richly faced down the sides in a foliage of the same; the bust is trimmed with buttons and narrow rouleaux, à-la-Parisienne; the collar is elevated, and finished, as are the

in large full plaits. Spencer of gros-de-cuffs, with the same trimming as the facings; Naples, of summer rose-colour. double ruff of fine lace. White transparent bonnet, finished round the brim with fine blond, and surmounted by a full bouquet of different flowers. Lemon-coloured kid gloves, and white kid half-boots.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS

ON

FASHIONS AND DRESS.

the pelisse is lined throughout with white sarsnet. This pelisse, and the spencer presented in our Print, each invented by the same tasteful artiste de modes, are the favourite envelopes for the carriage, or morning visiting dresses of ceremony.

For morning walks nothing is reckoned so elegant as the Spa bonnet: this is made of fancy straw, without any trimming: this straw is of very curious and elegant workmanship, and is sometimes striped with a light summer colour. Transparent bonnets are much worn at present, but they will soon give place to the warmer hat of straw or gros-de-Naples. Even satin is already used in the fabrication of hats; and a beautiful carriage hat of that material is much in favour, it is white, trimmed at the edge with fine net and narrow white ribbon, and surmounted by a superb plume of ostrich feathers.

WERE We not in possession of the very first intelligence from the world of fashion, we might venture to pronounce that it would be in vain to seek for what is new in that changeful hemisphere in the metropolis, deserted as London is at present by the noble and the wealthy: nevertheless, the continual orders sent to the Magazin de Modes, of Mrs. Bell, by those who rank highest in fashionable life, will enable us to lay before our fair readers a statement which, in spite of a season, that by modish votaries may be termed dreary, will exhibiting promenade, is much in favour; it is of a faithful epitome of what is most in favour, articles of dress, amongst the first classes.

as

Morning dresses are of fine cambric muslin; with broad borders of open embroidery; and the Spa frock robe, for the morn

fine clear muslin, made partially high, and quite plain, and worn over glazed cambric. For afternoon and home costume, We were favoured, just before these ob- a poplin of palmer's brown, elegantly trimservations went to press, with the sight of med with pink satin in the manner of the several articles of peculiar elegance, as they antique cornice ornaments, is much adwere taking their departure for Chelten-mired; these pink trimnings are finished ham, a few to Bognor, to Teignmouth, by very narrow rouleaux of black satin. Dawlish, and Cromer; and which we hasten to describe to our fair readers.

The present warm weather renders light articles chiefly adopted for out-door costume, such as muslin pelisses, spencers, and coloured gauze scarfs. On returning from evening parties shauls boiteux of English Cachemire, of a rich pattern on a sky blue or royal purple ground, are universally adopted.

Ball dresses consist of the harvest frock, which is of fine white net, and terminated by a rich border of corn poppies; a white satin corsage, trimmed with smaller poppies, finishes this superb dress. Another ball dress is formed of net over white sarsnet; it is trimmed with full puckered net at the border, confined by stripes in bias, of light blue satin, finished by a layer of the same on each side the puckering; a festoon of

light blue China astres and small convolvulus' finishes the border.

Among the head-dresses, the cornettes are various and beautiful. The Parisian morning cornette is formed of net, blue and white satin, in alternate narrow rouleaux, with a bunch of different coloured ranunculus'. The British morning cornette is of fine blond and net; the head-piece finished next the face en languettes of white satin, || and the crown richly ornamented by narrow rouleaux of white satin. The Summer Theatre cornette is elegantly finished by rouleaux of pink satin, and encircled by a rich wreath of the paradise, or cinnamon rose. The English Opera cornette (for we have yet some fashionists remaining in London's vicinity) is of gas lace and net, and is crowned by a splendid half-wreath of various summer and autumnal flowers. The dinner cornette, for receiving sociable dinner parties, is of white net, satin, and blond: : a small bouquet appears behind the left ear, and advances to near the crown of the head; it is composed of a beautiful large double pink, and a spiral flower of what is called "London pride."

The private concert hat, of pale blush colour satin, is among the most tasteful of our present evening head-dresses. In their native unornamented state these hats are according to the wishes of the musical amateur, devoid of those incumbrances which, when they are numerous, deaden the sounds of harmony. The shape of these hats is most elegant, and much depends on the arrangement of the hair, and the manner of putting them on. When they are worn in evening parties the addition of a drooping plume of crimped cypress feathers, renders them a head-dress of the most striking and superb appearance. We first beheld this beautiful plume at the Magazin de Modes, in St. James's-street (patronized by her Royal Highness the Duchess of Kent), on a newly invented turban cap, formed of fine net, striped gauze, and summer rose-coloured satin : the stem of this feather seems covered with pink, which beautiful colour shoots its roseate hue through the crimped white plumage that trembles over it. But the most elegant head-dress for grande costume, is the plume aigrette; in the front of which is a full bunch of garden lilies formed of

||

white feathers; in the midst of each is a moss rosebud on the point of opening into bloom. White feathers, of the heron kind, are seen spiring above, and two drooping fox brush white feathers fall over the left side, and complete this unique and truly splendid head-dress.

The favourite colours are lavender, summer rose, celestial blue, and pilgrim's or palmer's brown.

Pearls have now the pre-eminence over every other kind of jewellery.

Cabinet of Taste;

OR MONTHLY COMPENDIUM OF FOREIGN
COSTUME.

By a Parisian Correspondent.

COSTUME OF PARIS.

ALL great cities in Europe are subject to general desertion at a particular season of the year; our summer certainly commences sooner than yours; but our belles of fashion have, for the most part quitted the metropolis, and have accompanied their fathers and husbands to their country seats: many, however, yet remain in the suburbs, and visit Paris occasionally. The female bourgeoises also now so successfully ape their superiors in the taste and costliness of their attire, that we are never at a loss in pourtraying the varied changes of the motley Queen, whose rainbow sway is acknowledged by every quarter of the civilized globe.

For the morning early walk, muslin pelisses, with broad great-coat capes, trimmed with plaited muslin, are very general: barêge scarfs still continue in high favour, but many prefer a gauze veil, which serves either for a shield to the face or a covering for the shoulders: this veil is made square and is dyed either green or purple; each corner is finished by a small silk tassel.

Open straw hats lined with pink or lilac are very fashionable: when the lining is lilac the ribbons are of pale citron colour; those that are lined with pink are trimmed with white ribbon. The favourite trimming on gauze bonnets is satin ribbon quilled in bias; these ribbons are very broad, and the edge of the bonnet is finished by a gauze bouilloné, while the ribbons on the crown are formed in separate puffs, or cox

combs. Wreaths composed of a string of
daisies are much in vogue, with a tuft of
small flowers on one side. When a bouquet ||
on a hat is composed of pinks, there are ge-
nerally four or five grouped together; and
garlands of flowers, in distinct bunches, are
much worn in hats; they are enormous, and
the crown of a hat thus ornamented, ap-
pears at a distance like a large flower-pot.
A curious romantic kind of fashion is
adopted by some young ladies in the orna-
menting of their hats; it is aiming at the
sentimental, but I call it acrostical. Sup-
pose, for instance, the lady wearing the hat ||
is named MARIA; she, accordingly, sports
marshmallows, an anemone, a rose, an iris,||
and an asphodel, or evening lily: this forms
a mixture of colours, and even of flowers,
not always in season together.

87

the embroidery is executed renders them truly valuable: these dresses are much worn at the rural villas near Paris.

Letting in of lace, in the place of embroidery between the flounces, on dresses for home dinner costume, is now coming in again. Sashes are still worn as long as possible.

Cornettes are made with a horse-shoe caul, and a very broad head-piece, with two, and sometimes three rows of lace plaited next the face.

The acrostic rage prevails in jewellery. A ring is given with the following expres. sion, j'aime (I love). It is accordingly formed of a jacınth, an amethyst, a jasper, (spelt with an i) a mina nuova, and an emerald. J'adore, a jacinth, an amethyst, a diamond, an opal, a ruby, an emerald. Such gems form all the rings of the present day.

You perceive by this, that the French have not, however changed, yet parted with sentiment, of which I will give you an instance before I close this letter. Let me first record one instance of the studied negligence of fashion, if I may be allowed the

term.

It is not unusual among our fashionists, who are lovers of whim, to wear two different kinds of ribbon on the same hat; one of gauze plaid, the other a plain satin; and both of these are plaited together at the edge: another double trimming is of broad net and blond; these borderings are chiefly placed upon crape hats: gauze hats are, as usual, in the warm season, very numerous. The cotton hats, in imitation of straw, are A young married lady, who is here a no longer white, but of various colours. great leader of fashion, has purchased a wax The hats, I am glad to inform you, are all figure, with features of the same size and getting smaller: we see some now in the cast as her own; the complexion, eyes, and public walks with very narrow brims, and || hair of the same colour. On this she fixes which are ornamented with down feathers. a gauze bonnet, in the most becoming manHats of gros-de-Naples, lined with rose co- ner possible; and as she is a belle blonde, lour, and ornamented by drooping flowers, this bonnet is of celestial blue crape. She are among the elegancies of the day; the then takes a bunch of artificial flowers in crown is encircled by a wreath of flowers. || her hand, and retreating two paces she On straw hats, straw trimmings are much throws them on the bonnet: wherever in use, with white ribbons edged with nar- they chance to fall, that is their destination; row straw. The black lace and white tulle whether they incline towards the crown, handkerchief shawl, are generally adopted hang over one side of the brim, or rest by the ladies wearing these hats. upon it. A rose falls one way, a wild poppy another, a pink here, an ear of corn there, and she declares the irregularity perfectly classical and as it should be. She laughs at the English, and says hats put backward and short waists are only worn in London. Frenchwomen now certainly give the palm to long waists and low crowned bonnets, put very forward.

Cambric dresses are chiefly ornamented round the border with small puffs of muslin. Short sleeves are general; the puffings at the border, I should have remarked, sometimes reach as high as the knee: the puffs are laid in rows, triple and quadruple. The waists are yet worn very long, and are much ornamented. Muslin gowns, with borders embroidered in green, or in festoons Now for my sentimental young friend : of jessamine, or branches of myrtle, en- she is a most ingenious charming girl, and twined with marshmallows, are much ad- is just going to be married: of her ingemired; and the beautiful manner in whichnuity she gave me a proof while she was