pendence of the despotic pachas, and the oppressive ministers of the justicial government. Jealous of invasion, the Moiniots were unwilling to receive travellers, to whom they were represented as pirates and robbers. Mr. Morritt was not, however, to be deterred from the prosecution of his enterprize; and, in 1795, approached Maina by Calamata, a small town under the jurisdiction of the Pacha, which borders the beautiful plain of Messenia. Calmata was long a part of the Venetian territory, and preserves many vestiges of its former masters; it contains a Greek church and a majority of Greek families. From Calamata Mr. Morritt proceeded to the district of Maina, the boundary of which is marked by a square stone tower, pierced for cannon, the mansion of a Mainish chief. The government of Maina was at this period analogous to that formerly exercised in the Scottish highlands, being divided and subdivided into petty districts, each of which was subject to a capitano, or chief, whose tower was the home of his clan in peace, and their refuge in war. These chiefs were independent of each other, but, during war, the most powerful assumed the title of Bey of the Maina, and with it the functions of the executive government. The population of Maina exceeded the means of subsistence; wheat and maize were imported; and to obtain these necessary articles in sufficient quantity, they were often obliged to conciliate the Turks, who claimed over them a titular supremacy. Piracy and plunder also contributed to their support. Their independent spirit was sustained by the position of their country; on the appearance of an enemy they repaired to the fastnesses of their mountains and their strongly fortified towers, from whence even the women hurled destruction on their invaders.

"In the war conducted by Lambro, with Russian money, the Mainiots were found so troublesome to the Turks, that a combined attack was made upon their country by the fleet under the Capoudan Pasha, which lauded troops upon their coast, and the forces of the Morea, which marched at the same time from Misitra, The number of these two armies, probably exaggerated, was rated by the Mainiots at 20,000 men; the result of the attack by sea was pointed out to me near Cardamyle; a heap of whitening bones, in a dell near

the town, the remains of the Turks, who, after suffering the severest privations, were not so fortunate as the rest in finding a refuge in their fleet. The attack by land was equally disastrous; after a fruitless attempt to advance, and burning a few inconsiderable villages, their army was obliged to retire, harrassed by the fury of the people; whilst another party of the Mainiots burst into the plain of the Eurotas, drove off whatever they could plunder, and, iu the flames of Misitra, a considerable Turkish town, expiated the trifling mischief they had sustained at home.

By sea their warfare was still more inextinguishable; they infested with their row-boats every corner of the Cyclades and Morea, and made a law. ful prize of any vessel that was too weak for resistance; or entered by night into the villages and dwellings near the shore, carrying off whatever they could find. Boats of this sort, called here trattas, abounded in every creek; they are long and narrow, like canoes: ten, twenty, and even thirty men, each armed with a rifle and pistols, row them with great celerity, and small masts with Latine sails are also used when the winds are favourable. Every chief had one or more of them, and all exercised piracy as freely and with the same sentiments as appear to have prevailed among the heroes of the Odyssey, and early inhabitants of Greece. Habits like these, it may well be supposed, had a correspondent effect on the national character; their independence and their victories had given them confidence, and they possessed the lofty mind and attachment to their country which has every where distinguished the inhabitants of mountainous and free districts, whether in Britain, Switzerland, or Greece."

The ferocity of these brave freemen was in some measure atoned by their fidelity in friendship, and the unbounded hospitality which they exercised towards strangers. Their religion is of the Greek church, and they are supersti tious to excess. Yet among their chiefs Mr. Morritt met with men who were conversant with their ancient authors, and not uninformed on modern literature. The condition of the female sex was highly favourable to morality and domestic felicity; the women were not secluded, but freely intermingled with the men in the duties and pleasures of life; like the matrons of ancient Ger

many, they were often associated in the dangers of war, and like them are eminently distinguished by modesty and fidelity; they succeeded to property in default of male issue, and by the propriety of their conduct amply justified their pretensions to superior authority. Mr. Morritt was hospitably enter tained at Kitreés, in the family of Zanetachi Kutuphari, an eminent chief, formerly Bey of the Maina, and who resided with his neice, Helena, an independent heiress. Mr. Morritt's description of his host is so interesting that we must be permitted to transcribe the passage.

"The house consisted of two towers of stone, exactly resembling our own old towers upon the borders of England and Scotland; a row of offices and lodgings for servants, stables, and open sheds, inclosing a court, the entrance to which was through an arched and embattled gateway. On our approach, an armed retainer of the family came out to meet us, spoke to our guard who attended us from Myla. He returned with him to the castle, and informed the chief, who hastened to the gate to welcome us, surrounded by a crowd of gazing at tendants all surprised at the novelty of seeing English guests. We were received, however, with the most cordial welcome, and shewn to a comfortable room on the principal floor of the tower, inhabited by himself and his family; the other tower, being the residence of the Capitanessa, his niece, for that was the title which she bore.

"Zanetachi Kutuphari was a venerable figure, though not above the age of fifty-six. His family consisted of a wife and four daughters, the two youngest of which were children. They inhabited the apartment above ours, and were, on our arrival, introduced to us. The old chief, who himself had dined at an earlier hour, sat down however to eat with us according to the established etiquette of hospitality here, while his wife and the two younger children waited on us, notwithstanding our remonstrances, according to the custom of the country, for a short time, then retired, and left a female servant to attend us and him. At night, beds and mattresses were spread on the floor, and pillows and sheets, embroidered and composed of broad stripes of muslin and coloured silk, were brought in. These articles, we found, were manufactured at home by the women of the family; as the

Greeks themselves invariably wear their under garments when they sleep, the inconvenience of such a bed is little felt.

April 12.-" As the day after our arrival at Kitreés was Easter Sunday, we of course remained there, and had an opportunity of witnessing and partaking in the universal festivity which prevailed not only in the castle, but in the villages of the country round it. In every Greek house lamb is killed at this season, and the utmost rejoicing prevails. We dined with Zanetachi Kutupbari and his family at their usual hour of half-past eleven in the forenoon, and after our dinner were received in much state by his niece Helena in her own apartments. She was in fact the lady of the castle, and chief of the district round it, which was her own by inheritance from her father. She was a young widow, and still retained much of her beauty; her manners were pleasing and dignified. An audience in form from a young woman accompanied by her sister, who sat near her, and a train of attendant females in the rich and elegant dress of the country, was a novelty in our tour, and so unlike the customs which prevailed within a few short miles from the spot where we were, that it seemed like an enchantment of romance. The Capitanessa alone was seated at our entrance, who, when she had offered us chairs, requested her sister to sit down near her, and ordered her attendants to bring coffee and refreshments. We were much struck with the general beauty of the Mainiot women here, which we afterwards found was not confined to Kitreés; we re

marked it in many other villages; and it is of a kind that from their habits of life would not naturally be expected. With the same fine features that prevail among the beauties of Italy and Sicily they have the delicacy and transparency of complexion, with the brown or auburn hair, which seems peculiar to the colder regions. Indeed, from the vicinity to the sea, the summers here are never intensely hot, nor are the winters severe in this southern climate; the same causes in some of the Greek islands produce the same effect, and the women are much more beautiful in general than those of the same latitude on the continent. The men, too, are a well proportioned and active race, not above the middle size, but spare, sinewy, and muscular.

he stated his adherence to the opinion given on board the Alceste, respecting the consequences of performing the ceremony, and his conviction that no permanently injurious effects would result from the rejection of the Embassy; added, that upon a fair expectation being held out of obtaining the ulterior objects of the mission, reasons might be found for taking a different view of the question, especially with reference to our instructions on this point from Government. Some discussion then arose as to what would constitute a fair expectation, and it seemed to be agreed that a solemn assurance on the part of Ho, of the Emperor's favourably considering our requests, would be sufficient. With these sentiments we proceeded to the conference.

"Ho received us most graciously, and after some civil inquiries from him, Lord Amherst took occasion to mention the note of yesterday, and to request an answer. The answer not having been specific or satisfactory, Lord Amherst proceeded to state the grounds of his resistance, dwelling upon the commands of his Sovereign, who had pointed out the particular ceremony with which he was to approach the Imperial presence, and requesting the Koong-yay to suggest some motive for his depart ing from such positive orders, and thereby incurring most heavy personal responsibility. The Koong-yay dwelt upon the propriety of compliance, from a consideration of the exalted rank of the Emperor, who must be esteemed infinitely superior in dignity to a King, and whose gracious condescension and favour might in other respects be fully relied upon. Lord Amherst observed that it was impossible for him to lose the habits of allegiance produced by a life of forty-three years, and that be must again press the Koong-yay to reflect impartially upon the difficulty of his situation. Ho repeated his former observations, and added in an under tone, that our King himself might get into an embarrassing situation; this Mr. Morrison, with his usual good sense, declined communicating. Lord Amherst then proceeded to state the necessity of the Emperor justifying him to bis Sovereign by a statement of his Majesty's own knowledge of the tartar ceremony having been performed by Lord Macartney, and also of an Imperial Edict being issued, containing gracious expressions respecting the Em

bassy. These two points the Koongyay assented to. Lord Amherst next adverted to the direct communication between the Chief of the Factory at Canton, and some tribunal at Pekin, founding the request upon the inexpediency of such vast concerns being dependant for security upon the personal character of the local officers, and bringing forward the example of the Russian trade. Ho, in answer, said, that he could not venture to pronounce any opinion upon the view the Emperor might take of this latter request; he admitted that it did not appear unreasonable, and concluded by saying Comply with the Tartar ceremony, and I am your friend at Pekin.' Lord Amherst terminated the discussion by expressing his intention of taking the subject again into consideration. The Koong-yay talked of our all going to Pekin tomorrow, and said that be should expect to hear the result of Lord Amherst's deliberation in a few hours, when he proposed to return his lordship's visit. The Koong-yay's manner was throughout most gracious, and his expressions were of the more consequence as there were several persons present.

"On our return, our discussions upon the expediency of compliance were renewed, and Lord Amherst gave an opinion, that unless Sir George still considered compliance under present circumstances injurious to the Company's interests, he was disposed, with a view of averting the probable evil consequences of rejection under irritated feelings, and contemplating the pros pect held out of effecting the ulterior objects of the Embassy, to comply with the Emperor's wishes to the extent of performing the ceremony in his presence. I expressed my complete concur rence with Lord Amherst. Sir George, previously to giving his opinion, said that he should wish to consult the gentlemen who accompanied him from Can ton, as he was anxious to assist his own judgment with their experience. To this Lord Amherst readily acceded, stating that he conceived all questions connected with the possibility of personal or national degradation from performing the ceremony to have been decided by Lord Macartney's conduct, in proposing even condititional compliance, and by the instructions of his Majesty's Ministers; and, therefore, the probable effect at Canton of the measure was the only point upon which he could require

an opinion. Sir George having consulted the gentlemen of the factory separately, found, that with the exception of Mr. Morrison, they considered compliance as highly injurious to the Company's interests; the maintenance of the respectability of the factory at Canton, and consequently of their efficiency, resting entirely upon a belief entertained by the Chinese of their inflexible adherence to principles once assumed, a belief which must necessarily be subverted by concession in so weighty a point, and on such an important occasion. Sir George added, that these had been, before the consultation, and were still his sentiments. Lord Amherst and myself withdrew our suggestion, and a note was prepared to Ho, stating such to be our final and irrevocable determination. At this moment a visit from the Koong-yay was announced, and we were informed that they were landing the presents: immediate measures were taken to stop the Koong-yay, by informing him that a note communicating our determination would be transmitted without delay. The note was accordingly sent by Mr. Hayne and Mr. Davis, who delivered it to one of his attendants."

The Embassy have scarcely returned, when the Koong-yay arrives, says that all is arranged, and requests that the Embassy will immediately prepare to proceed. On the 28th they accordingly send off their baggage, set forward, and about midnight reach the gate by which Lord Macartney entered Pekin, but are not admitted.

"29th of August.-Daylight found us at the village of Haiteen, near which the house of Sung-ta-jin, one of the principal ministers, intended to be our quarters, is situated; here, however, we did not remain, but were carried directly to Yuen-min-yuen, where the Emperor is at present. The carriage stopped under some trees, and we ourselves were conducted to a small apart. ment belonging to a range of buildings in a square: Mandarins of all buttons were in waiting; several Princes of the blood, distinguished by clear ruby buttons and round flowered badges, were among them: the silence, and a certain air of regularity, marked the immediate presence of the Sovereign. The small apartment, much out of repair, into which we were huddled, now witnessed a scene I believe unparalleled in the history of diplomacy. Lord Amherst had

scarcely taken his seat, when Chang delivered a message from Ho (Koong-yay), informing him that the Emperor wished to see the Embassador, his Son, and the Commissioners, immmediately. Much surprise was naturally expressed; a previous arrangement for the eighth of the Chinese month, a period certainly much too early for comfort, was adverted to, and the utter impossibility of his Excellency appearing in his present state of fatigue, inanition, and deficiency of every necessary equipment. was strongly urged. Chang was very unwilling to be the bearer of this answer, but was finally obliged to consent. During this time the room had filled with spectators of all ages and ranks, who rudely pressed upon us to gratify their brutal curiosity. for such it may be called, as they seemed. to regard us rather as wild beasts, than mere strangers of the same species with themselves. Some other messages were interchanged between the Koong-yay and Lord Amherst, who, in addition to the reasons already given, stated the indecorum and irregularity of his appearing without his credentials. In his reply to this it was said, that in the proposed audience the Emperor merely wished to see the Embassador, and had no intention of entering upon business. Lord Amherst having persisted in expressing the inadmissibility of the proposition, and in transmitting, through the Koong yay, an humble request to his Imperial Majesty, that he would be graciously pleased to wait till to-mor row, Chang and another Mandarin finally proposed that his Excellency! should go over to the Koong-yay's apartments, from whence a reference might be made to the Emperor. Lord Amherst having alleged bodily illness as one of the reasons for declining the audience, readily saw, that if he went to the Koong-yay, this plea, which, to the Chinese (though now scarcely admitted), was in general the most forcible, would cease to avail him, positively declined compliance: this produced a visit from the Koong yay, who, too much interested and agitated to heed ceremony, stood by Lord Amberst, and used every argument to induce him to obey the Emperor's commands. Among other topics he used that of being received with our own ceremony, using the Chinese words 'ne-muntihlee,' your own ceremony. All proving ineffectual, with some roughness, but under pretext of