VOYAGE TO EUROPE. 85 "STEAMER EUROPA, Friday morn, July 19, 1850. "Thinking that you will feel interested in hearing of my progress, I avail myself of the present opportunity to pen a few lines, expecting to mail my letter this afternoon in Halifax. Concerning my movements up to twelve o'clock on Wednesday, George can give you all possible, information. At that hour I bade him farewell, and with my fellowpassengers started on my voyage across the blue Atlantic. As we passed down New York Bay, I was much interested in viewing different objects upon the shore. Here was a magnificent edifice, with its solid and majestic columns, its symmetrical and beautiful proportions; there an angry-looking fort, with its gaping iron mouths, ready to roar at the presumptuous invader of the land of the free and the home of the brave. As we passed Sandy Hook, we parted with our pilot (the last link that seemed to bind us to the shore), and put out fairly to sea. By this time I had formed an acquaintance with one or two of the passengers, and had already enjoyed much pleasant conversation. The wind being pretty fresh, occasioned some roughness of the water, and this, together with the combined influence of our sails and engine, caused the boat to roll considerably. "Now, then, for the tug of war. As the ship would rise, I would not suffer the least inconvenience, but when, immediately after, she would make a lurch, there seemed to be a strange nervousness of feeling in the region of digestion. After a while a disagreeable dimness began to steal over my vision. I fought like a lion. At four o'clock the dinner-bell rang, and thinking that perhaps a little food would serve as a barricade on the field of battle, behind which I might ensconce myself from the attack of the foe, I ventured to eat a little. A very few mouthfuls served to suffice, for, finding myself driven from my position, I resolved on retreat. Down I went to my state-room, the enemy following me. First he got me on my back, then he seemed to turn everything round within me, then he commanded me to restore what I had so insultingly swallowed at dinner-time, and, will you believe me? I felt obliged to yield. Up it came, with a good deal more, and I left the treasure at his feet. After so fierce a contest and so signal a defeat, I thought I might lie down. As seven o'clock (supper-time), however, rolled round, I inscribed on my banner, 'Often beaten, but still unconquered,' and staggered up again to the charge. A little toast and tea was all I ventured to take, and yet the enemy, as if maddened by my obstinate resistance, laid upon me a heavier hand than ever, and down I went a second time. What a trouncing I got! I gave him back all-aye, more than all. I shed tears, I groaned, I rolled, and at last, with some difficulty, got to bed-not to sleep, however. During the night, with the motion of the boat, I pitched from side to side, and as morning dawned rose and went forth to walk the deck. During yesterday, although feeling somewhat squeamish, I concluded myself decidedly better, and ventured to partake very moderately of food. Last night I slept gloriously, and this morning began to feel like myself again. I can now just perceive the aforementioned foe in the distance, almost out of sight, but now and then turning round to know whether it would not be well to return. From suffering experience, I think I know something respecting sea-sickness, and feel it in my heart to say that hereafter I will cheerfully relinquish my share to any other for a very trifling consideration. "Our boat is a splendid one. Her officers are gentlemanly and skilful, her crew is orderly and obedient, the servants are attentive and obliging, and our accommodations are all that could be desired. At half-past eight we breakfast, at half-past twelve enjoy lunch, at four sit down to dinner, and at seven drink our tea. The dinner service is certainly splendid, and the food unexceptionable. We have every variety and any quantity. My state-room is not quite as far forward as I should like, and yet its situation back is not without advantage, since there is an absence from noise and a retirement which is very desirable and delightful on shipboard; besides, I have it all to myself, and you know from experience that this is a desideratum. Our passengers, though mostly foreigners, are very kind and gentlemanly. Perhaps there is a little too much liquor drank, and last night I observed some card-playing. With two or three I have formed rather an intimate acquaintance, and find them to be gentlemanly, communicative, and affectionate. "Our noble steamer has been urging on her course steadily since our departure from New York. Yesterday, notwithstanding rather unfavourable weather, she accomplished about two hundred and fifty miles. After we leave Halifax, and become a little lighter by the consumption of coal, I apprehend her speed will be very considerably increased. Though sailing on the vast ocean, with nought but sky above and sea around, I rejoice to say I realize the presence of my Heavenly Father. Indeed, I think I feel, as I never felt before, my dependence upon Him for life and everything else. I desire to remain momentarily beneath the shadow of His almighty wing, for there I am sure nothing wrong can befall me. Thus far I have accomplished but little in the way of reading and writing; indeed, my sea-sickness would not allow of it. I hope, at least, to keep up a short diary, or, as the sailors say, log. VOYAGE TO EUROPE. 87 The weather in this latitude is foggy and cold. Last night I wrapped myself in a blanket, and during the day find my overcoat no encumbrance. I spend much of my time thinking of you; you are as dear to me as my own life. May God bless and mercifully preserve you all! Pray for me. My sheet is full, and I must close my letter, written with some difficulty, owing to the motion of the boat and the noise of the machinery. Give my best love to brothers, little sister, and all friends." CHAPTER IX. THE FOREIGN TOUR.-ENGLISH SCENERY AND FRIENDS. ON Sunday, July 29th, he arrived at Liverpool. His own descriptions are so full and vivid as to supersede any efforts of mine to describe the delight with which he set foot on English soil. He had been educated all his life to believe everything was grand and beautiful in England, the home of his ancestors; he had been taught so to revere his kindred, had been told so many noble things of them, that it was natural he should expect much, and hence should be correspondingly gratified if his ardent expectations were more than fulfilled. Though accustomed to the thought of the genuine worth of his kindred at Hull, the social and material elegance in which they lived, yet reared, as he had been, in the modest surroundings of a Methodist preacher's son, he was hardly prepared for all the refinement which was to greet him. Nothing could be more pleasing than the letters so artlessly detailing his observations and impressions. To the mother and family at home : "STEPNEY LODGE, HULL, YORKSHIRE, Monday evening, July 29, 1850. “I am in a perfect ecstasy! my joy is unbounded and uncontrollable! my only fear is that I will wake up and find it all a dream. I am in Hull; nay, more,—I am at my dear grandfather's residence. Would you believe it? I can scarce realize it myself. And now I SUNDAY IN LIVERPOOL. 89 shall endeavour to conquer emotion a little, and, as calmly as I can, go back and detail my progress since my departure from Halifax, for in that town I mailed a letter for you written upon the ocean after we left New York. I will not advert to the routine of our proceedings on shipboard; if you should feel interested in anything of that nature, have recourse to my excellent friend and host, viz., Brother J. Baily, and you can readily obtain the desired information in a letter which I shall mail in the same steamer which will convey this. Suffice it to say that, after a prosperous and most delightful voyage of not quite eleven days, no storm having occurred and the wind having continued favourable nearly all the way, we reached Liverpool on Sunday a little after two o'clock. I immediately proceeded to the George Hotel, a magnif.. cent establishment; when, having adjusted matters a little, I sallied forth, sighing most for religious privileges, for Christian communion. As I passed up the street, I providentially met with a gentleman whom I took to be a Wesleyan from his plain and neat costume. Addressing him, I inquired if he could direct me in my search for a Wesleyan chapel. Immediately informing me that he was connected with that excellent body, he kindly proposed to conduct me to the place of my pursuit. Arm-in-arm we passed up the street, enjoying pleasant conversation, and came to Mount Pleasant Chapel, one of the oldest churches in Liverpool. The Sabbath School was about to close, and, by request, I united with them in prayer, and felt, indeed, access to our Father through our Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ. anon. "Yielding to a most urgent and importunate invitation to accompany this brother home to tea, at six I went with him to Stanhope Chapel, when a brother Roebuck preached a most capital sermon. More of this The service charmed me, but about this we will have one of our old-fashioned tête-à-têtes upon my return. After the benediction I went to Dr. Raffles's church, and after this to a Mr. Fallows's, a most evangelical and excellent member of the Establishment. Having accomplished as much and endured more than I anticipated in the way of church-going, I returned to my hotel, and about ten retired—not, however, to sleep. The circumstances of the evening as well as the prospects of the morrow drove slumber from my eyes. However, not to linger by the way, morning dawned, and an early hour found me at the custom-house, where the delay and tardiness of the government officers greatly provoked me. Stating my situation, and manifesting much anxiety, I secured my trunks, and drove with all possible speed for the railway-station, and got there just fourteen minutes past nine o'clock, one minute too soon for the Hull train. Off we flew at the rate of thirty miles an hour, through first a manufacturing and afterward an |