224 ENTRANCE TO THE BAY us much to come to an anchor near their valley, opposite; but finding us determined to proceed to this harbor, they continued on board-the Teiis being at present their friends and allies. Some of the crew quickly took compassion on their nakedness; and they had been but a few minutes with us, before they were metamorphosed, from bare savages, into sturdy tars, in frocks, trowsers, and tarpaulins, pulling and hauling at the rigging in the management of the ship, with as much expertness as if they had been before the mast all their lives. The distance from Tower Bluff to the entrance of Taiohae, or Massachusetts Bay, as Commodore Porter called it, is about eight miles--the coast, after passing the valley of the Hapas, being bold and lofty, without any opening or lowland. Besides the distance from Tower Bluff, two striking landmarks indicate the approach to it-the one, a red faced rock, and the other a white stripe down a dark cliff, having at a distance the appearance of a cascade, and being probably the channel of a watercourse in heavy rains. The immediate entrance is designated by two small islets, or rocks, in a line with the coast, one on each side of the channel, called the east and west "sentinels," according to their respective locations. We rounded that on the eastern side so closely, as to be able almost to cast a biscuit upon it, and at once had the whole of the bay and valley in view. Picture to yourself a' smooth basin eight or nine miles in circumference, stretching in a circular form from the narrow passage between the sentinels, about three miles inland, and terminating at that distance. USE OF THE WHITE FLAG. 229 them such refreshments as were desirable, and render them any service of kindness in our power. After communicating these facts, and learning others from them concerning the general state of their tribes and island at present, refreshments of bread, raisins, apples, &c., were served, when the band striking up on deck, they were quickly withdrawn by it from the cabin to the poop, partaking in no small degree till sunset of the general surprise and childish pleasure produced by it. On entering the harbor, a white flag had been hoisted at the fore-top-mast head, as a signal that the ship was free of access to all who might choose to come on board. The captain informed them of the design in setting it, and told the chiefs that any of the people might come off whenever they saw it flying, but that the taking of it down would show that the ship was tabu till it should be hoisted again --that now it was to be lowered for the night-and all on board, men and women, must start for the shore. This Haapé and Piaroro made known to the crowds thronging the decks and rigging from the poop to the forecastle, and began to put their authority by command in exercise; but in that mild and leisurely manner only which is generally adopted, I believe, among all the Polynesians in ordinary cases, and especially in such as are not perfectly agreeable to themselves or the people. At first, little attention was paid to the order; but when Captain Finch repeated the injunction to the chiefs, assuring them that the ship must be cleared, they assumed a VOL. I. 20 230 ENFORCEMENT OF THE more authoritative and decided tone towards the people, and the men began plunging overboard amidst the confusion of a general chatter and exclamation. The ladies manifestly considered the order as referring only to the other sex, and very composedly remained clustered about, in the belief that, like all other ships probably that had ever visited them, the Vincennes was to be their home till her anchor was taken for sea again. And when, after repeated declarations that they too must go, they began to suspect the truth of the case, scarce any thing could exceed the looks of surprise and inquiry they cast on one another and on the ship's company. They seemed determined, by their dilatory movements in obeying the order, still further to test the reality of such an unknown measure; and it was not till we beat to our usual evening quarters, and the officers by their swords very courteously pointed out the steps at the gangway to them, that they too began, with many a taha! taha!" to leap one after another into the water, and "pull away," as they have learned themselves to say, for the shore. The chiefs said laughingly, as they took their leave to enter their canoe, "This is a strange ship!" And I doubt not it is the first in which they have ever known any restriction to be placed on the grossest licentious ness. After the vessel was thus cleared of noise and nakedness, and the perfumes of cocoa-nut oil and other strong odors, which had greatly annoyed and disgusted us, Captain Finch invited me to a seat in his gig in a row round the harbor, or rather that part of TABU ON BOARD SHIP. 231 it within our anchorage. The excursion was delightful, and the scenery, mantled in the softness of a sunset tint, certainly as wild, if not as beautiful, as any I ever gazed on. LETTER IV. VALLEY OF TAIOHAE. U. S. Ship Vincennes, Nukuliva, THE reveillé had scarce been beaten this morning, before the Vincennes was surrounded by the noise, loud talking, hallooing, and various rude merriment of the islanders. Finding the ship strictly tabu, they took possession--by permission of the officer of the deck of the launch, which had been hoisted out, and moored at a little distance, and crowded her till her gunwales, though a heavy boat, were almost level with the water. As the white flag has not been hoisted during the day, they have been obliged to content themselves with that accommodation. While taking a bath with Captain Finch, before breakfast, at a retired spot on the eastern shore, the chiefs we saw yesterday came to us, accompanied by an Englishman named Morrison. He has resided here several years, as a collector of sandal wood; and the captain readily accepted his services as an interpreter--a part he is qualified to perform more satis factorily than the Society and Sandwich Islanders of our crew, who are, at times, much embarrassed between an imperfect knowledge of English, and a variance between this dialect of the Polynesian tongue and their own. The principal object of the visit, on the part of the chieftains, was to know when they might expect Captain Finch and his officers on shore; and 11 o'clock having been appointed, we left them for breakfast. Heavy showers of rain came down upon the bay, from the mountains in the interior, afterwards-but before noon it became clear and pleasant, and we prepared to make our promised visit. The party consisted, besides the Captain, of Lieutenants Dornin and Magruder--Midshipmen Irving, Taylor, Bissell and Smith-a sergeant and guard of marines, and myself: the officers and marines in full uniform, and I in canonicals of robe and scarf. The procession of boats, the display of arms and dress, and the manner of landing, were such as either to abash or intimidate those we intended to honor-the chiefs, who were standing on the beach to receive us, being evidently much embarrassed. It arose, most probably, from a sense of inferiority, for almost the first words of Haapé, as he led the way to his house, were in expressions of regret that he had no entertainment to offer us, in return for the kindness received by himself and friends, on board ship, yesterday. A feast is a first expression of hospitality among themselves, and it is not improbable that he feared we might expect something of the kind from him on this occasion. Perceiving us satisfied on this point, |