338

DAUGHTER OF THE TAUA.

it became necessary to rejoin our boats, in order to accomplish before night the intended visit to the adjoining bay and valley of Hakahaa.

LETTER XI.

HAKAHAA, OR THE VALLEY OF THE NEUTRAL GROUND.

Bay of Oomi, at Nukuhiva,

August 9th, 1829.

On returning from the waterfall yesterday, to the dwelling of the prophet, we found himself, wife, and daughters in readiness for the proposed visit to the Vincennes.

The second daughter, however,--whom I have mentioned, as evidently a fashionable of the first grade-was subjected, at the moment of starting, to a sad disappointment. She had made her appearance in full dress for the occasion; being enrobed in an immense drapery of beautifully white native cloth of the finest texture, trailing far behind upon the ground, and differing little in its appearance, at a short distance, from so much Italian crape-with a fanciful toque for the head of the same material, among the folds of which her black tresses were arranged with much taste. Conscious of superior beauty and elegance, and satisfied with the additional effect of an hour's attendance at the toilette, she was just moving off in fine spirits, when unhappily an infant some months old began crying; and the

PARENTAL AFFECTION.

339

grandmother interdicted her leaving it-an injunction which, either from parental or filial duty, she chose to obey; though I doubt not greatly to her dissatisfaction.

At the Sandwich Islands, previous to the influence of Christianity which has now obtained, the result in such a case, would probably have been very different ; and the babe would have cried in vain. From every inquiry I have been able to make, I am happy to say there is good reason to believe that the abhorrent crime of child murder-so prevalent among the Hawaiians and other Polynesians-is a crime of heathenism hitherto spared the Nukuhivans, and their fellow-islanders of the Washington and Marquesan groups. As a people, so far as we can judge, they appear as fond of their children, and give the same evidences of attachment and care in their treatment of them, as the inhabitants of a civilized country: a fact worthy of being placed in happy contrast with the horrors of infanticide, necessarily brought to light in a portraiture of the pagan state of the Georgian, Society, and Sandwich Islanders.

All the domestic relations, indeed, appear to be under more propitious auspices here, than originally at either of those clusters. The marriage tie, though existing almost exclusively in the baneful form of a singular polygamy-that of a plurality of husbands, instead of a plurality of wives-still seems more distinct, more binding, and more enduring here, than at the Society and Sandwich Islands. I have not been able to learn, that any particular ceremony attends the marriage engagement, except an inter

340

MATRIMONIAL ALLIANCES.

change of presents between the intended husband and the father of the bride, and the celebration of a feast by the common relatives, with accompanying amusements of dancing and singing.

We have yet met with no instance, in any rank of society, of a male with two wives, but are informed that for one woman to have two husbands is a universal habit. Some favorite in the father's household or retinue, at an early period becomes the husband of the daughter-who still remains under the paternal roof―till contracted in marriage to a second individual; on which, she removes with her first husband to his habitation, and both herself and original companion are supported by him.

Alliances, most unequal in point of age, are often entered into by families of rank, from motives of policy or ambition, in which an infant, male or female, is contracted in marriage, to an individual of the opposite sex already arrived at years of maturity, or to a middle or advanced period of life. Contracts of this kind very frequently occur, at the formation of a peace between two hostile parties or tribes; and the persons and families thus allied, are always spared violence and death in any future war that may take place, or the devastations that may follow a successful inroad of either tribe, upon the territories of the other.

Instances of strong conjugal affection are reported of them; and cases are known, in which the infidelity and unkindness of a husband or wife, have so deeply affected the happiness of the companion, as to lead to the commission of suicide, by swallow

NATURAL SCENERY.

341

ing a poisonous berry growing in the mountains, or by hanging.

The row round the promontory overhanging this little glen, through the middle bay of the neutral ground at Hakahaa, is about three miles; and rich in a variety and beauty of prospect. The central inlet is about two miles in depth, and one in width. On first doubling the point-as we now entered it from Hakapaa-the ridges of hills, both on the right and left, are coated only in thick set grass; but about midway towards the beach on which we were to land,

"A woodland scene

On either side, drew its slope line of green,

And sweetly hung the water's edge with shade."

This was beautifully true of the western acclivity. A smooth and verdant shore rose gradually a few rods-above a bright base of pebbles at the beachto a wide and regularly defined terrace, extending along the hill to the mouth of the valley a mile inland, and so wooded as to appear like a tastefully planted avenue, leading to an abode of affluence and rank. It reminded me of some of the drives I have taken in an English park; but not a nobleman in the realm, can boast an ornament in his grounds, in which there is united such luxuriance, gracefulness, and variety of foliage, as were here presented at a single glance to the eye. Across the bay, immediately opposite, a feature in the landscape equally striking, though less picturesque, attracted our notice, in an extensive plantation of bread-fruit, studding the rising grounds, in lines as straight as those of a carefully arranged orchard at home. It is the

342

ARRIVAL AT HAKAHAA.

first instance of a regular order in any growth of much extent, that I have met with in the South Seas; and affords a pleasing proof of the great beauty the aspect of the country would present, if under the management of cultivators of taste and skill-such, as with proper instruction, the present proprietors themselves might become.

As we approached nearer, the extent and importance of this, almost unoccupied, valley of the neutral ground, became more and more manifest. In its general aspect-the form and height of the mountains bounding it-the evenness and breadth of the interval or bottom land along the stream in its centre, and in the evident richness of the soil-it has a greater resemblance to a fine vale in America, than any thing before seen. It presents none of the wild marks of volcanic formation, so characteristic of Taioa and Taiohae; but cn the contrary, is full of the mild features of a land susceptible of a high state of agricultural improvement-a difference which gave it a new charm in our eyes-not only from its contrast with all we have lately beheld, but also from associations of home scenery.

The females of the Taua's household expressed some reluctance, in coming within the boundaries of a territory common to their enemies, but dismissed their fears when informed that one of the boats should remain off the shore with them, while our party landed. Taua-tini alone of the natives landed on the beach with the captain. A considerable number of Taipiis, warriors and common people, were collected on the green banks above the sand;