NOTES ON A VOYAGE TO CHINA IN HER MAJESTY'S LATE SCREW STEAMER REYNARD.-P. Cracroft, Commander.

(Continued from p. 481.)

The river Min is not navigable for any thing but the shallowest river craft, above the bridge, although in appearance still a magnificent stream. Immense rafts of wood, from the pine forests in the interior, are floated down, and form the staple trade of the place; and "spars" are exported to all parts of China. We completed the ship with this fuel, made up in bundles, as much as she could stow, piling the wood up abaft the mizen-mast also. The price was two mace (about 8d.) a picul of 133 lbs., or about 2 dollars a ton; and as a ton of wood was found to do as much work as half a ton of the very best coal, I calculate the expense of this fuel as equivalent to burning coal at a little more than a guinea a ton. Through a compradore, known by the name of "Long-legs," and who supplies the opium ships at the Woga Creek, I obtained beef and vegetables at Amoy prices. Supplies of all kinds are very plentiful; pheasants, roe venison, and wild fowl of every description, are to be had; and the officers found plenty of employment for their guns upon the hills in the neighbourhood; the inhabitants everywhere appearing most friendly disposed.

On the evening of the 1st of February, all my preparations being complete, embarked Mr. Jackson, the Consul; and at daylight on the 2nd started to fulfil the confidential mission with which I am entrusted at Wan-chow-foo. It was the top of high water when we started, so we carried the ebb the whole way down the river. Found quite a rapid over the ledge at the commencement of the Mingan Pass, and shot through the Kinpai Pass with a velocity which was anything but pleasant; and I inwardly hoped I might never have to take the ship above it again. On reaching the bar, it was dead low water, and although our chart gives not less than two and a half fathoms, in the shoalest part of the channel, we scraped along in a quarter less two to a considerable distance outside Rees Rock, altering course in every direction to find deeper water, without success; and these are "neap tides." It is evident the channel is filling up. I may mention, also, that there were breakers on the knoll, (which is supposed to have never less than nine feet on it,) while the water was perfectly smooth everywhere else.

The weather continued fine until shortly after sunset, when it began to threaten, the barometer rising fast; so a snug anchorage being at hand, I came to under Double Peak Island in six fathoms. During the night the monsoon came down very strong, as I anticipated; and to think of moving at daylight was quite out of the question; so here I remained, thankful to have a quiet Sunday. It blew very hard on Monday and Tuesday in squalls, but the ship rode very quietly with the yards pointed to the wind: the holding ground is excellent, being a stiff blue clay, which we had some difficulty in getting off the cable. This island, together with one called Spider Island inshore of us, has

obtained some notoriety as a pirate haunt; and the Chinaman I have on board as a spy or informer, was once taken prisoner and detained here several weeks. I fear our appearance on the coast has been the signal for these freebooters to decamp, for even his lynx-eyes failed to discover anything suspicious in the neighbourhood.

Away at daylight on Wednesday the 6th, with a fine working breeze; weathered the Pihseang Group, but was forced to anchor in the open channel to the northward of these islands at nightfall; for with the strong current running, it would have been most hazardous to have kept under way in the dark. Thursday brought thick foggy weather; and I thought myself lucky to get up under the lee of High Peak, or Fuh-yan-shan Island before dark. Away again at daylight, and after a hard day's beat, weathered the Tae Island Group, on one of which is a most remarkable mushroom-shaped rock. There was no anchorage within reach at sunset, so stood out for the night; fetched well to windward of the Seven Stars in the morning, and had hopes of getting into an inlet of Namki Island before dark, but failed; so had another night of it, and a more disagreeable one if possible. In tacking at midnight the foot rope of the foresail gave way, and the sail split up to the reef band; (last night it was the maintopsail;) it was nearly 2 A.M. before the other foresail was set; and what between the wind and the heavy sea, with a dismal sky of the most ferocious-looking clouds, I thought we were in for a dusting. As we drew in shore again, however, these portentous appearances vanished, the breeze took off, and, after church, there was so little wind, that I got the steam up, and at 1 30 P.M. we were screwing along in a dead calm. Anchored for the night off the Hoo-tow-shan (Tiger-head Hill) Group, at the entrance of the Wanchow River, in lat. 28°, where there is excellent shelter and good holding ground.

Monday Feb. 11.-At daylight proceeded up the river under steam, and with the help of a tracing of Capt. Bate's survey, which he was good enough to give me before we left Hong-Kong, found no difficulty; although it is evident that the shoal south of the entrance of the river has extended considerably since the survey was made. Off the walled city (name unknown) on the left bank we found, at anchor, the British schooner Dido, belonging to Mr. Davidson of Ningpo, with a convoy of junks bound coastwise. On a bold headland, a little higher up, on the opposite side of the river, stands a fort, having one of those curious jar-shaped towers conspicuously placed for the purpose of making signals at night: we gave this the name of Jar Fort. The tide here was running rapidly; but nothing to compare with that of the Min. About three miles higher up, finding the ebb coming down strong, anchored at noon, close to the left bank, at the entrance of a creek navigable for river craft, and moored with 25 fathoms each way, in 6 fathoms, stiff mud.

First Pagoda on the left bank N.W.b.W. Bearings of the anchorage.. Extreme point of Flat Island N.W. West point of Flat Island E.b.S.is.

The city of Wanchow is about five miles from this point, but is shut

out from view by a remarkable barren-looking hill, projecting into the river, which here makes a sharp bend. In the afternoon I landed on the right bank, abreast the ship, in company with Mr. Jackson. A straggling village extends almost the whole distance from Jar Fort to this point; the country for miles appears to be a flat plain, intersected by numerous canals, and is highly cultivated. We found the inhabitants very much disposed to be friendly; but it was with great difficulty we could communicate, Mr. Jackson's mandarin Chinese not being understood by these illiterate people.

This is the Chinese New Year's Eve, and a season of festivity answering to our Christmas, when all work is laid aside, and amusement is the order of the day. A crowd was therefore soon collected; and, after what I had heard of the disposition of the Canton people, at this season especially, I was fully prepared to be insulted, perhaps pelted and robbed. In anticipation of some such proceeding, I had put a four-barrelled revolver in my pocket; but might have left it on board, for not the least incivility, even, was shown us, far less insult. Indeed we were invited into a great many houses, to partake of what these poor people had to offer, and drank sundry cups of tea, hot wine, samshoo, &c., and tasted the cakes made of rice flour, coloured red and yellow, with hieroglyphics on the outside; precious nastiness! In this way a good opportunity was afforded us of examining the condition of the inhabitants, who, judging from the small show of worldly wealth their filthy dwellings contain, and the very general air of poverty, must be in a miserable state.

The next morning started in my galley with Mr. Jackson for the city. A thick haze overhung the turbid muddy stream, which the rays of the sun gradually dispelled, disclosing the magnificent scenery. Bold precipitous hills, scarped perpendicular in some places, form the boundaries of the extensive basin in which Wan-chow-foo is situated. Four pagodas, two of them on an island abreast the city wall, give a picturesque effect to the foreground. Off the first pagoda there was plenty of water for the Reynard; but I thought it hardly worth while to shift to so short a distance. Within a cable's length of the city wall, I found a deep channel, where a few vessels, drawing twelve feet, might always lay afloat, moored head and stern; here I found the English schooner Spec, and a small schooner called the Alfa, under Dutch colours, both employed convoying junks. One Amoy junk, and about twenty of a very inferior class, apparently mere river craft, were scattered in this reach; and if an opinion may be hazarded from the fact of there being so few vessels here, the trade of Wanchow carried on by sea cannot be very important.

My first object on landing was to arrange about a supply of wood to replace what was expended in steaming up here; but nothing could induce the Chinese, on this the first day of their year, to engage in any business. Every shop was closed; not even an egg or an orange could be procured. The few people moving about the streets, were dressed in their gayest attire; and as this saturnalia is supposed, according to the lex non scripta, to last three days, I thought myself forNO. 10.-VOL. XXI.

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tunate, after much haggling between my Chinese servant (Tom Jaw) and a "respectable city merchant," to obtain a promise that the next day the wood should be forthcoming. This settled, the next point was to Chin-chin the mandarin's, having previously sent my card, according to custom. But, on repairing to the official residence of the Tou-tai, or chief magistrate of the city and district, that officer was absent; and the next in authority, an admiral, pleaded illness as an excuse for not receiving us. It was evident neither of them intended to have any communication with me or my ship, and Mr. Jackson explained the reason, (which indeed was pretty obvious,) that, as by the treaty of Nankin, no English ship has any business to come here, so, the mandarins having no power to exclude us, their only alternative is to take no cognizance of our presence, and thus obviate the necessity of making a report of our arrival to the government, which (Mr. Jackson added) would certainly only lead to their disgrace for not keeping us out of their waters.

Nothing now remained but to make the best use of the time to inspect the place. Accordingly, the remainder of the day, and the whole of the next, were occupied in wandering over the city, no one offering the least hindrance; indeed the people every where shewed us the greatest civility; and beyond a little crowding occasionally to have a good stare at the "Fauqui," which was not at all to be wondered at, we had no reason to complain of our reception. It was evidently a high festival; "sing-songs" and theatricals were going on in many of the streets, attracting, as the day advanced, crowds of people, who had evidently well fortified the inner man, I noticed several cases of intoxication, though none of disorderly conduct. From a little chartmaker, who was evidently an opium-smoaker, by the glare of his eyes and unnatural state of excitement he seemed in, I obtained the following "Description of the Interior of Tung-gou Walled City." "There are nine hills inside, named the Kew Tow. At the east gate there is the Hwa-kae hill, with its Ta-kwan Ting and Seaoukwan Ting (watch-towers or observatories, having greater or less extent of view). At the west gate there is a large palace and temple, within the grounds of which is the Gou-shan (hill). Proceeding to the San-tsuh-mun, (Tripod gate,) there are three hills, and the ninecurved river passage. At the south gate there are two hills, and the two old rivers. On the outside of the east gate there is the Yang-fooshan water passage,* which is here three chang (30 covids) wide or more; but on arriving at Seaou-ke-too its breadth is little more than 20 covidst. There is high tide at midnight and noon; floating sands and mud bottom. Again on arriving at the east gate mound" But here we cut the little man's pencil-lucubrations short, as our time began to fail. The above will, however, serve to give an idea of what is considered valuable information by a Chinaman; and, probably, had the sketch been concluded, we should have been as wise as ever in all

The riv. r the Reynard had steamed up.

The covid, or Chinese foot, equal to 13·125 English inches.

that it is of importance to know with regard to the statistics of the place.

The city of Wanchow, or Tungow-ching, is built on the south or right bank of the river called by the authority (?) above-mentioned the Yang-foo-shan; (in our charts the Gnau;) it is enclosed by a wellbuilt wall, the circumference of which may be from four and a half to five miles. The population, including that of the suburbs, we estimated at about 200,000. The streets are intersected by canals; and it was evident, from the water marks on the walls of the houses, pillars, &c., that they are frequently inundated. We noticed many large pools of standing water, and remains of the last inundation; and I have little doubt that the whole of the city must be at times more or less under water, when the communications can only be carried on by boats; (if one may judge from the number to be seen, at this dry season apparently useless;) and the high spring of the arches of all the bridges are crossed. I noticed also many open places, covered with ruined houses, an indication of a reduction in the number of inhabitants, and decay in the place. Whether owing to its unhealthiness or not, it was impossible to ascertain; but no European constitution could long withstand the exhalations which must result from these floods, combined with the heat of the sun, which, even at this time of year, is most oppressive, and forced us to carry our umbrellas. The few elevated grounds within the walls appeared to belong to adjoining temples, and to be used for burial places; but every where coffins were to be seen exposed to the air, with bamboo mats over them, in accordance with the custom peculiar to the province of Chehkiang. I observed one firmly fixed in the fork that had been formed by two branches of a lichee tree; it had probably been there for some years, for the tree had grown into it.

Towards the afternoon of the 13th the shops began to open, and we were enabled to obtain some information on the subject of trade. From all we could gather it would seem to be almost entirely a coasting one; the imports are piece-goods, raw silk, wood, and dried fruits, brought principally from Amoy, Foo-chou-foo, Taichou, and Ningpo: the exports are vegetable tallow, rice, and small spars. Raw silk, cotton, cotton yarn, and piece-goods, and woollens, (English,) are also brought by canal from Ningpo, Shanghae, Shou-hing, Soo-chou, and the silk districts. There are manufactories of silks in the city, and they will weave to any English pattern, or muster,* as it is called, at Canton. Cotton cloths are manufactured in the neighbouring villages. The tea hills are distant three days journey, but an inferior kind of green tea is grown in the immediate vicinity. We went to see a manufactory of shamsoo and soy, of which the Chinese consume great quantities. The bean from which the latter is extracted is put into enormous open jars of coarse earthernware, filled with salt and water. Fermentation takes place, and the liquor is drawn off at the proper period, and undergoes various purifying processes to prepare it for the

*This word must be borrowed from the Germau.