PAGEANTRY OF QUEEN ELIZABETH. PAUL HENTZNER, a German, who to be made of the gold of the celebrated travelled in England in the reign of Queen Lunebourg table; her bosom was unElizabeth, gives the following account of covered, as all the English ladies have it the dress and mode of living of that till they marry; and she had on a neckPrincess. lace of exceeding fine jewels: her hands "We arrived at the royal Palace of were small, her fingers long, and her staGreenwich, reported to have been ori-ture neither tall nor low; her air was ginally built by Humphrey Duke of Glou- stately, her manner of speaking mild and cester, and to have received very magni-obliging. That day she was dressed in ficent additions from Henry VII. It was white silk, bordered with pearls of the size here Elizabeth, the present Queen, was of beans, and over it a mantle of black silk, born, and here she generally resides; par- shot with silver threads; her train was ticularly in summer, for the delightfulness very long, the end of it borne by a Marof its situation. We were admitted by an chioness; instead of a chain she had an order Mr. Rogers had procured from the obloug collar of gold and jewels. Lord Chamberlain, into the presence "As she went along in all this state and chamber, hung with rich tapestry, and the magnificence, she spoke very graciously, floor, after the English fashion, strewed first to one, then to another, whether foreign with bay, through which the Queen com- ministers, or those who attended for dif monly passes in her way to the chapel at ferent reasons, in English, French, and the door stood a gentleman dressed in vel- || Italian; for, besides being well skilled in vet, with a gold chain, whose office was to Greek, Latin, and the languages I have introduce to the Queen any person of dis-mentioned, she is mistress of Spanish, tinction that came to wait on her. It was Sunday, when there is usually the greatest attendance of nobility. "In the same hall were the Archbishop of Canterbury, the Bishop of London, a number of councillors of state, officers of the crown, and gentlemen who waited the Queen's coming out, which she did from her own apartment, when it was time to go to prayers, attended in the following manner:-First went gentlemen, Barons, Earls, Knights of the Garter, all richly dressed and bareheaded; next came the Chancellor, bearing the seals in a rich silk purse, between two, one of which carried the royal sceptre, the other the sword of state, in a red scabbard, studded with golden fleurs de lis, the point upwards. Next came the Queen, in the sixty-fifth year of her age, as we were told, very majestic; her face oblong, fair, but wrinkled; her eyes small, yet black and pleasant; her nose a little hooked; her lips narrow, and her teeth black (a defect the English seem subject to, from their too great use of sugar); she had in her ears two pearls, with very rich drops; she wore false hair, and that red; upon her head she had a small crown, reported No. 145.-Vol. XXII Scotch, and Dutch; whoever speaks to her it is kneeling, now and then she raises some with her hand. While we were there W. Slawata, a Bohemian Baron, had letters to present to her, and she, after pulling off her glove, gave him her right hand to kiss, sparkling with rings and jewels, a mark of particular favour: wherever she turned her face, as she was going along, every body fell down on their knees. The ladies of the court followed next to her, very handsome and well shaped, and for the most part dressed in white. She was guarded on each side by the Gentlemen Pensioners, fifty in number, with gilt battle-axes. In the anti-chapel, next the hall where we were, petitions were presented to her, and she received them most graciously, which occasioned the acclamation of "Long live Queen Elizabeth!"— She answered it with, "I thank you, my good people."-In the chapel was excellent music: as soon as it and the service was over, which scarce exceeded half an hour, the Queen returned in the same state and order, and prepared to go to dinner. "But while she was still at prayers, we saw her table set out with the following solemnity:-A gentleman entered the room D of this ceremony a number of unmarried ladies appeared, who, with a particular solemnity, lifted the meat off the table, and conveyed it into the Queen's inner and more private chamber, where, after she had chosen for herself, the rest goes to the ladies of the court." The same traveller gives the following account of Bartholomew Fair. bearing a rod, and along with him another who had a table-cloth, which, after they had both kneeled three times with the utmost veneration, he spread upon the table, and, after kneeling again, they both retired. Then came two others, one with the rod again, the other with a saltseller, a plate, and bread; when they had kneeled, as the others had done, and placed what was brought upon the table, they too re- "Every year upon St. Bartholomew's tired with the same ceremonies performed day, when the fair is held, it is usual for by the first. At last came an unmarried the Mayor, attended by the twelve princilady (we were told she was a Countess), pal Aldermen, to walk in a neighbouring and along with her a married one, bearing field. Upon their arrival at a place apa tasting-knife, the former was dressed in pointed for that purpose, where a tent is white silk, who, when she had prostrated pitched, the mob begin to wrestle before herself three times in the most graceful them, two at a time; the conquerors remanner, approached the table, and rubbed || ceive rewards from the magistrates. After the plates with bread and salt, with as this is over a parcel of live rabbits are let much awe as if the Queen had been pre- loose among the crowd, which are pursued sent. When they had waited there a little by a number of boys, who endeavour to while, the yeomen of the guard entered, catch them, with all the noise they can bare-headed, clothed in scarlet, with a make. While we were at this show, one golden rose upon their backs, bringing in of our company, Tobias Solander, doctor at each turn a course of twenty-four dishes, of physic, had his pocket picked of his served in plate, most of it gilt; these dishes purse, with nine crowns du soleil, which, were received by a gentleman in the same without doubt, was so cleverly taken from order they were brought, and placed upon him by an Englishman, who always kept the table, while the lady-taster gave to very close to him, that the Doctor did not each of the guards a mouthful to eat of the in the least perceive it." particular dish he had brought, for fear of any poison. During the time that this guard, which consists of the tallest and stoutest men that can be found in all England, being carefully selected for this service, were bringing dinner, twelve trumpets and two kettle-drums made the hall ring for half an hour together. At the end The following is his account of the fitting up of the chamber of Parliament. "In the chamber where the Parliament is usually held, the seats and wainscot are made of wood, the growth of Ireland, said to have that occult quality, that all poisonous animals are driven away by it." SPANISH BULL-FIGHTS.—BY AN EYE-WITNESS. THE origin of bull-fights among the friend, the peaceable companion of the husSpaniards is derived from the Moors, shep-bandman, the ox accustomed to bow his herds of Africa, a nation skilled in training head gently to the yoke fastened to his horses, in managing unruly flocks, and horns, to the goad that spurs him ou; he conquering the wild beasts of the desert. is the king of the forest, where he has lived Gentlemen formerly fought on the bull almost wild under a meridian sun; a fiery festivals, but they seldom now present blood boils in his veins, and excites him themselves in the arena. We should form to anger. The hills and vales lately echoed a very wrong idea of the bull that is to to his lengthened bellowings. He is a fight, if we judged of him by those which proud conqueror, accustomed to fight for are seen innocently straying round the the young heifer, to see every thing give herdsmen which guard them: he is not the way, and even men fly at his approach, or at the first sound of his formidable,, thrown, one of the foot combatants apfury. proaches, and draws the bull from his I saw pass one of the unruly animals victim by a red cloak; proud of his success, that were to fight in the evening'; he had and attracted by his scarlet, the noble been brought from Salamanca; his dark animal turns his rage against this new rusty coat gave him an air of great ferocity; enemy, more formidable to appearance, six powerful men could, with difficulty, and proportions his exertions to the exhold him by ropes sufficiently long to pre-pected resistance: the Chulo leaps aside, vent danger. A young heifer preceded to and leaves the cheated bull to roar and entice him into Taurll, a dark narrow in-wreak his fury on the cloak left between closure, furnished with trap-doors, in which his horns. the bulls are separately put till the time fixed for the fight. In this place their angry passions are still further inflamed by different torments. On the upper part of the breast is placed a ribbon, which denotes by its colour their origin, breed, and birth-place. The bull-fights at Madrid are given in an amphitheatre open at the top. The spectacle opens with a sort of parade executed by the horse and foot combatants, all richly dressed according to the old Spanish costume. The Picadores fight on horseback, armed with lances; their horses are saddled in the Moorish fashion; the lances are furnished with a sharp fourcornered head, made so as to wound the bull without entering deep into his body. The Chulos fight on foot, armed with darts; their arm of defence is a piece of red cloth, which, attracting by its glare the bull's eyes, enables the skilful to avoid his attack, and baffle his fury by favour of this illusory buckler. Flourishes are heard, the barrier opens, and the bull appears. He has to avenge the many injuries received in his dark prison, and the craft by which he was entrapped; with his hair on end and nostrils on fire, he stamps the ground, and threatens with his horns the spectators; the solemn silence that instantly succeeds the thrilling sound of the trumpets, far from intimidating him, seems to increase his ardour. He surveys the arena, and, in three bounds, darts on the first Picador that comes forward. The Picador, firm in his seat, lowers his lance which he holds in rest, and, pulling round his horse, drives it into the bull's broad breast, just as this fierce adversary inclines his head to make a dreadful blow. The shock is sometimes so violent that the lance shivers to pieces; and the bull, suddenly stopped in his course, is forced backward, with pain from the wound. Should the Picador's horse be Every time the bull conquers a new enemy, he lifts his proud head and casts a scornful and haughty look around him; calmed for awhile by victory, he seems to delight in the repeated plaudits of the multitude, and listens with pleasure to the shouts of "Bravo, bull! bravo, bull!" that come from all parts of the amphitheatre. The Picadors are succeeded by the Chulos or Banderilleros, who advance on foot. The bull attacked takes a fresh spring: he thinks, in one course, to free himself from this weak, light, and nimble troop which unceasingly harrasses him ; but they every where open at his approach; the Banderilleros pass and repass; adroitly plant their darts in the bull's neck and breast, and, by their extreme agility, sport with his fury. I have seen one of these Chulos, too closely pursued to escape by leaping the fence, boldly place his foot between the bull's horns; and, tossed by the blow that was intended for him, fall unharmed some paces behind. The troop of Banderilleros retires at a signal agreed upon, and the Matador appears, to finish the fight by the bull's death; he holds a sword in his right hand, and a flag in his left. After a low bow before the magistrates' box, he turns round, advances with a firm and orderly step towards the bull, whose motions he several times studies, by presenting and withdrawing his flag. The spectators are suspended betwixt fear and hope; all eyes are fixed on the point of the Matador's sword, who must pay with his life his irresolution or want of skill, should his blow fail or his hand falter; at length he lifts his sword and plunges it between the shoulders, into the very heart of the bull, who, eager to strike the Matador, closes, staggers, falls, and measures the ground with his huge body. The four-footed hero, victor in many battles, Ꭰ ? raises for the last time, his dying head, and in one lengthened roar, the blood gushing from his mouth and nostrils, he expires.Flourishes announced the bull's entrance, flourishes are heard at the death. Three mules harnessed abreast, and richly caparisoned, come from a door opposite that by which the combatants enter, gallop to the bull, and drag him away with cords fastened to his horns. The bull which comes next respires sometimes with frantic horror at the still reeking blood scattered about the arena, and seized with the fury of revenge he attacks indiscriminately all his foes at once. Sometimes a too timid bull wanders cowardly about the course, and returns to the outlet whence he came, but that is irrevocably shut; the spectators consider him unworthy the honour of fighting with men ; the dogs are loudly called for, and the bull, assaulted by a pack, is soon thrown; he is struck on the head with a sharp pointed instrument made for the purpose, and dies amid barkings, shoutings, and abuse. The bloody tragedy, of which the devoted bull is the chief actor, presents the living picture of war as it was before the invention of gunpowder; it offers to the mind its tumult, uncertainty, and agitations, and the spectator, as in a field of battle, feels that electric emotion which is excited by the shedding of blood. Directly the spectacle begins an almost convulsive joy seizes the spectators of every age and both sexes; in an instant the gravest countenances expand and become cheerful. The men seated on benches, lean forward and open their cloaks to be more appropriate to the action, as if they were to take part in it. They are seen to follow with their eyes and gestures every motion of the Picador or bull, and even encourage the animal by words, thinking thus to influence, by their own eagerness, the fate of the combat. A DAY IN PALERMO. SINCE every circumstance relating to Palermo derives additional interest at the present moment, from the sanguinary insurrection of which it appears to have become the scene, I am tempted to send you an account of a single day, which I passed there in 1818, when, being oppressed by ill health and fatigued by a hurried journey through the island, I was anxious to snatch an interval of repose in the smiling capital of La bella Sicilia. Enchanted by the delicious scenery, in which the city stands embosomed, I committed myself without reserve to the conduct of à valet de place, not doubting that wheresoever he might lead me throughout so fair a paradise, I should find abundant objects to gratify my imagination, and revive my drooping spirits. We accordingly drove to the suburban village of Bagheria and stopped at the palace of Prince Palagonia. Brydone's description having escaped my recollection, I was not prepared for the detestable display of perverted taste which pervades the gardens of this sumptuous bedlam. Every horrible contortion and disgusting combination of animal form, which the caprice of a madman could devise, or the funds of a principality command, has been embodied in the statues which surround the villa. Egri somnia start into life, and the transient creations of night-mare and indigestion are stamped with the durability of solid stone. I entered the house, in hopes that the scene within would repay me for the horrors of the approach. A deserted mansion, however, is never an enlivening sight, and the long line of the Palagonians, each glaring from his pannel, in all the prominence of alto relievo, rendered the "dusky darkness" of the uninhabited chambers still more appalling. The formal dresses of the last century, in which many of these figures are represented, being executed in the substance called brocatello, and preserving the colours and semblance of reality, threw an effect of more than usual paleness on the "dull cold marble" of their features. 1 had seen enough of the Palagonians; and my guide proposing a visit to Prince Butiro's Certosa, I hastened thither to change the scene. I was disappointed, however, when on entering, I discovered the nature of the exhibition. A display of wax-work has at best no charms for me; but a display of faded and neglected wax-work never fails to inspire me with disgust. The marble Palagonians were pale and inanimate; but the waxen inha bitants of La Certosa had an indescribable animation with their paleness, which 1 thought even more disagreeable. Early recollections of Mother Shipton perhaps mingled with the feelings of the moment, and I am convinced that if any one of the "filthy hags" who smiled around me, had given the slightest intimation of a disposition to kick, she would have unnerved me for the rest of the day. I hurried my cicerone from La Certosa, and charged him, as he valued his future dollars, to shew me thenceforth nothing but what was human. Poor Caetano was all obsequiousness, and we rapidly returned to Palermo and the haunts of men. The carriage stopped at the gate of a convent; 1 was informed that it was necessary to descend; and before I knew whither I was going, 1 found myself in the catacombs of the Capuchins. Here fresh horrors awaited me. These galleries of the dead, which surround a considerable subterranean square, are lined by a grisly band of human corpses, each in an erect position, and dried by an artificial process. The different stages of decay to which time had reduced these mouldering exuviæ, the fantastic attitude into which the progress of desiccation had thrown the limbs of some, the tattered garments and blackened fibres, still clinging to the skeletons of all, presented the most hideous picture of death and distortion which it was ever my lot to witness. Among the rest I observed the grinning remains of one of the Norman Kings of Tunis, a gilded crown upon his skull, and a tarnished sceptre in his impotent and bony fingers. Even "Tibalt festered in his shroud," was not wanting to complete the group; for the friars pointed out to me the body of a Sicilian duellist, slain in a violent rencontre, and shewed with peculiar satisfaction, the set teeth, the contracted muscles, and the deep gash on 29 the forehead, which betokened the manner of his death. Sickened by what I had seen, I was glad to ascend into the church above, where the first breath of incense seemed to be like a gale of paradise. I was anxiously || traversing the pavement towards an open door through which the cheerful sun of Sicily was streaming, with its usual splendours, when my guide suddenly plucking my sleeve, directed my attention to a part of the isle, where sat the corpse of a physcian, who had been recently brought thither for interment. The remaius of the poor old man were tricked out (as is usual in the south) in a tawdry suit of full dress, and were placed, as if in mockery of mortality, in an upright position, on an elevated velvet chair. His head was sunken upon his breast, but the expression of his features was not like that of sleep. I did not pause to examine the humiliating symptoms of change and dissolution, which were stampt on the visage of the deceased; but proceeded hastily to the hotel, where my first business was to dismiss Caetano, whose face had become associated with so many disagreeable impressions. Since I could not deny, that in confining himself at last to human exhibitions, he had kept the word of promise to mine ear, though he had most woefully broken it to my hope, I thought myself bound to pay him his stipulated dollars, and then-" Now," said I, "to dinner with what appetite I may." Scarcely however, had I helped myself to a spoonful of maccaroni, when the grateful wretch came running back to inform me that the execution of a murderer was just about to take place, and that if I would trouble myself to step to the window, I might see the malefactor pass. Already the chaunt of the procession was heard in the adjoining street; so that, as eating was now out of the question, I no longer hesitated to put myself on board the Neapolitan packet, which carried me from Sicily for ever. A TRAVELLER, |