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Paul HentzNER, a German, who to be made of the gold of the celebrated travelled in England in the reign of Queen Lunebourg table; her bosom was un. Elizabeth, gives the following account of covered, as all the English ladies have it the dress and mode of living of that till they marry; and she had on a neckPrincess.

lace of exceeding fine jewels: her hands “ We arrived at the royal Palace of were small, her fingers long, and her staGreenwich, reported to have been ori. ture neither tall nor low; her air was ginally built by Humphrey Duke of Glou- stately, her manner of speaking mild and cester, and to have received very magni obliging. That day she was dressed in ficent additions from Henry VII. It was white silk, bordered with pearls of the size bere Elizabeth, the present Queen, was of beans, and over it a mantie of black silk, born, and here she generally resides; par-shot with silver threads; her train was ticularly in summer, for the delightfulness very long, the end of it borne by a Mare of its situation. We were admitted by an chioness; instead of a chain she had an order Mr. Rogers had procured from the obloug collar of gold and jewels. Lord Chamberlain, into the presence “ As she went along in all this state and chamber, hung with rich tapestry, and the magnificence, she spoke very graciously, floor, after the English fashion, strewed first to one, then to another, whether foreign with bay, through which the Queen com- ministers, or those who attended for difmonly passes in her way to the chapel : at ferent reasons, in English, French, and the door stood a gentleman dressed in vel- || Italian; for, besides being well skilled in vet, with a gold chain, whose office was to Greek, Latin, and the languages I have introduce to the Qneen any person of dis- | mentioned, she is mistress of Spanish, tinction that came to wait on her. It was Scotch, and Dutch; whoever speaks to Sunday, when there is usually the greatest her it is kneeling, now and then she raises altendance of nobility,

some with her hand.

While we were " In the same hall were the Archbishop there W. Slawata, a Bohemian Baron, had of Canterbury, the Bishop of London, a letters to present to her, and she, after number of councillors of state, officers of pulling off her glove, gave him her right the crown, and gentlemen who waited the hand to kiss, sparkling with rings and Queen's coming out, which she did from jewels, a mark of particular favour: where her owo apartment, when it was time to ever she turned her face, as she was going go to prayers, attended in the following along, every body fell down on their knees. mapner :- First went gentlemen, Barons, The ladies of the court followed next to Earls, Kuights of the Garter, all richly | her, very handsome and well shaped, and dressed and bareheaded; next came the for the most part dressed in white. She Chancellor, bearing the seals in a rich was guarded on each side by the Gentlesilk purse, between two, one of which men Pensioners, fifty in number, with gilt carried the royal sceptre, the other the battle-axes. In the anti-chapel, next the sword of state, in a red scabbard, studded hall where we were, petitions were prewith golden fleurs de lis, the point upsented to her, and she received them most wards. Next came the Queen, in the graciously, which occasioned the acclama. sixty-fifth year of her age, as we were tion of “ Long live Queen Elizabeth !"told, very majestic; her face oblong, fair, She answered it with, “ I thank you, my but wrinkled; her eyes small, yet black | good people.”—In the chapel was excel. and pleasant; her nose a little hooked; | lent music: as soon as it and the service her lips parrow, and her teeth black (a was over, which scarce exceeded half an defect the English seem subject to, from bour, the Queen returned in the same state their too great use of sugar); she had in and order, and prepared to go to dinner. her ears two pearls, with very rich drops ;

" But while she was still at prayers, we she wore false hair, and that red; upon saw her table set out with the following ber bead she had a small crown, reported | solemnity:-A gentleman entered the room No. 145.-Vol. XXIII


bearing a rod, and along with him another ,, of this ceremony a number of unmarried who had a table-cloth, which, after they ladies appeared, who, with a particular had both kneeled three times with the solemnity, lifted the meat off the table, and utmost veneration, le spread upon the conveyed it into the Queen's inner and table, and, after kneeling again, they both more private chamher, where, after she retired. Then came two others, one with | had chosen for herself, the rest goes to the the rod again, the other with a saltseller, a ladies of the court.” plate, and bread; when they had kneeled, The same traveller gives the following as the others had done, and placed what account of Bartholomew Fair. was brought upon the table, they too re- Every year upon St. Bartholomew's tired with the same ceremonies performed day, when the fair is held, it is usual for by the first. At last came an unmarried the Mayor, attended by the twelve princilady (we were told she was a Countess), || pal Aldermen, to walk in a neighbouring and along with her a married one, bearing field. Upon their arrival at a place apa tasting-knife, the former was dressed in pointed for that purpose, where a tent is white silk, who, when she had prostrated pitched, the mob begin to wrestle before herself three times in the most graceful them, two at a time; the conquerors remanner, approached the table, and rubbed ceive rewards from the magistrates. After the plates with bread and salt, with as this is over a parcel of live rabbits are let much awe as if the Queen had been pre- i loose among the crowd, which are pursued sent. When they had waited there a little by a number of boys, who endeavour to while, the yeomen of the guard entered, catch them, with all the noise they can bare-headed, clothed in scarlet, with a make. While we were at this show, one golden rose upon their backs, bringing in of our company, Tobias Solauder, doctor at each turn a course of twenty-four dishes, of physic, had his pocket picked of his served in plate, most of it gilt; these dishes purse, with nine crowns du soleil, which, were received by a gentleman in the same without doubt, was so cleverly taken from order they were brought, and placed upon him by an Englishman, who always kept the table, while the lady-taster gave to very close to him, that the Doctor did not each of the guards a mouthful to eat of the in the least perceive it." particular dish he had brought, for fear of The following is his account of the fitting any poison.

During the time that this up of the chamber of Parliament. guard, which consists of the tallest and “ In the chamber where the Parliament stoutest men that can be found in all Eng- is usually held, the seats and wainscot are land, being carefully selected for this ser- made of wood, the growth of Ireland, said vice, were ringing dinner, twelve trum- to have that occult quality, that all poisonpets and two kettle-drums made the hall ous animals are driven away by it." ring for half an hour together. At the end


The origin of bull-fights among the || friend, the peaceable companion of the hus. Spaniards is derived from the Moors, shep-bandman, the ox accustomed to bow his ljerds of Africa, a nation skilled in training | head gently to the yoke fastened to his horses, in managing unruly flocks, and horus, to the goad that spurs him ou; he conquering the wild beasts of the desert. is the king of the forest, where he has lived Gentlemen formerly fought on the bull || almost wild under a meridian sun; a fiery festivals, but they seldom now present blood boils in his veins, and excites him themselves in the arena. We should form to anger. The hills and vales lately echoed a very wrong idea of the bull that is to to bis lengthened bellowings. He is a fight, if we judged of bim by those which l proud conqueror, accustomed to fight for are seen innocently straying round the || the young heifer, to see every thing give herdsmen which guard them: he is not the way, and even men fly at his approach,

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or at the first sound of his formidable , thrown, one of the foot combatants apfury.

proaches, and draws the bull from his I saw pass one of the unruly animals | victim by a red cloak; proud of his success, that were to fight in the evening”; he had and attracted by his scarlet, the noble been brought from Salamanca; his dark animal turns his rage against this new rusty coat gave him an air of great ferocity; || enemy, more formidable to appearance, six powerful men could, with difficulty, || and proportions his exertions to the exhold him by ropes sufficiently long to pre- | pected resistance: the Chulo leaps aside, vent danger. A young heifer preceded to and leaves the cheated bull to roar and entice him into Taurll, a dark narrow in- || wreak his fury on the cloak left between closure, furnished with trap.doors, in which his horns. the bulls are separately put till the time Every time the bull conquers a new fixed for the fight. In this place their enemy, he lifts his proud head and casts a angry passions are still further inflamed scornful and haughty look around him; by different torments. On the upper part calmed for awhile by victory, he seems to of the breast is placed a ribbon, which de- delight in the repeated plaudits of the notes by its colour their origin, breed, and multitude, and listens with pleasure to the birth-place. The bull-fights at Madrid are shouts of “ Bravo, bull! bravo, bull!" given in an amphitheatre open at the top. that come from all parts of the' amphitheThe spectacle opens with a sort of parade atre. The Picadors are succeeded by the executed by the horse and foot combatants, Chulos or Banderilleros, who advance on all richly dressed according to the old 'foot. The bull attacked takes a fresh Spanish costume. The Picadores fight on spring: he thinks, in one course, to free horseback, armed with lances; their horses himself from this weak, light, and nimble are saddled in the Moorish fashion; the troop which unceasingly harrasses him lances are furnished with a sharp four- | but they every where open at his approach; cornered head, made so as to wound the the Banderilleros pass and repass; adroitly bull without entering deep into his body. I plant their darts in the bull's neck and The Chulos fight on foot, armed with darts; breast, and, by their extreme agility, sport their arm of defence is a piece of red cloth, with his fury. I have seen one of these which, attracting by its glare the bull's Chulos, too closely pursued to escape by eyes, enables the skilful to avoid his attack, || leaping the fence, boldly place his foot and baffle his fury by favour of this illusory between the bull's horns; and, tossed by buckler. Flourishes are heard, the barrier the blow that was intended for him, fall opens, and the bull appears. He has to unharmed some paces behind. The troop avenge the many injuries received in his of Banderilleros retires at a signal agreed dark prison, and the craft by which he was upon, and the Matador appears, to finish entrapped; with his hair on end and nos- the fight by the bull's death; he holds a trils on fire, he stamps the ground, and sword in his right hand, and a flag in his threatens with his horns the spectators; left. After a low bow before the magis. the solemn silence that instantly succeeds trates' box, he turns round, advances with the thrilling sound of the trumpets, far a firm and orderly step towards the bull, from intimidating him, seems to increase whose motions he several times studies, bis ardour. He surveys the arena, and, in | by presenting and withdrawing his flag. three bounds, darts on the first Picador || The spectators are suspended betwixt fear that comes forward. The Picador, firm and hope ; all eyes are fixed on the point in his seat, lowers his lance which he holds of the Matador's sword, who must pay in rest, and, pulling round his horse, drives with his life his irresolution or want of it into the bull's broad breast, just as this skill, should his blow fail or his hand fierce adversary inclines his head to make || falter; at length he lifts his sword and a dreadful blow. The shock is sometimes plunges it between the shoulders, into the so violent that the lance shivers to pieces; || very heart of the bull, who, eager to strike and the bull, suddenly stopped in his course, the Matador, closes, staggers, falls, and is forced backward, with pain from the measures the ground with his huge body. wound. Should the Picador's horse bell The four-footed hero, victor in many battles, raises for the last time, his dying head, and ,, instrument made for the purpose, and dies in one lengthened roar, the blood gushing | amid barkings, shoutings, and abuse. The from his mouth and nostrils, he expires.- bloody tragedy, of which the devoted bull Flourishes announced the bull's entrance, || is the chief actor, presents the living picflourishes are heard at the death.

ture of war as it was before the invention Three mules harnessed abreast, and of gunpowder; it offers to the mind its richly caparisoned, come from a door oppo- tumult, uncertainty, and agitations, and site that by which the combatants enter, || the spectator, as in a field of battle, feels gallop to the bull, and drag him away that electric emotion which is excited by with cords fastened to his horns. The || the shedding of blood. Directly the specbull which comes next respires sometimes tacle begins an almost convulsive joy seizes with frantic horror at the still reeking the spectators of every age and both sexes; blood scattered about the arena, and seized in an instant the gravest countenances with the fury of revenge he attacks indis. | expand and become cheerful. The men criminately all bis foes at once. Some | seated on benches, lean forward and open times a too timid bull wanders cowardly their cloaks to be more appropriate to the about the course, and returns to the outlet || action, as if they were to take part in it. whence he came, but that is irrevocably | They are seen to follow with their eyes shut; the spectators consider him unwor- and gestures every motion of the Picador thy the honour of fighting with men ; the or bull, and even encourage the animal by dogs are loudly called for, and the bull, words, thinking thus to influence, by their assaulted by a pack, is soon thrown; he is own eagerness, the fate of the combat. struck on the head with a sharp pointed


Since every circumstance relating to which the caprice of a madman could Palermo derives additional interest at the devise, or the funds of a principality compresent moment, from the sanguinary in- mand, has been embodied in the statues surrection of which it appears to have which surround the villa. Ægri somnia become the scene, I am tempted to send start into life, and the transient creations you an account of a single day, which I of night-mare and indigestion are stamped passed there in 1818, when, being oppres- with the durability of solid stone. I entersed by ill health and fatigued by a hurried ed the house, in hopes that the scene journey through the island, I was anxious within would repay me for the orrors of to spatch an interval of repose in the the approach. A deserted mansion, how. smiling capital of La bella Sicilia. En- ever, is never an enlivening sight, and the chanted by the delicious scenery, in which long line of the Palagouiaus, each glaring the city stands embosomed, I committed froin his papoel, in all the prominence of myself without reserve to the conduct of à alto relievo, rendered the “ dusky darkvalet de place, not doubting that whereso- ness" of the uninhabited chambers still ever he might lead me throughout so fair a more appalling. The formal dresses of the paradise, I should find abundant objects to last century, in which many of these gratify my imagination, and revive my figures are represented, being executed in drooping spirits. We accordingly drove the substance called brocatello, and preto the suburban village of Bagheria and serving the colours and semblance of reality, stopped at the palace of Prince Palagonia. threw an effect of more than usual paleness

Brydone's description having escaped my on the “dull cold marble" of their features. recollection, I was not prepared for the I had seen enough of the Palagonians; detestable display of perverted taste which and my guide proposing a visit to Priuce pervades the gardens of this sumptuous Butiro's Certosa, I hastened thither to bedlam. Every horrible contortion and change the scene. I was disappointed, disgusting combination of animal form, || however, when on entering, I discovered

the nature of the exhibition. A display // the forehead, which betokened the manner of wax-work has at best no charms for of his death. me; but a display of faded and neglected

Sickened by what I had seen, I was wax-work never fails to inspire me with glad to ascend into the church above, disgust. The marble Palagonians were

where the first breath of incense seemed to pale and inanimate; but the waxen inha- be like a gale of paradise. I was anxiously bitants of La Certosa bad an indescribable traversing the pavement towards an open animation with their paleness, which 1| door through wbich the cheerful sun of thought even more disagreeable. Early re- || Sicily was streaming, with its usual collections of Mother Shipton perhaps miu- splendours, when my guide suddenly gled with the feelings of the moment, and plucking my sleeve, directed my attention I am convinced that if any one of the to a part of the isle, where sat the corpse “ filthy hags" who smiled around me, had l of a physcian, who had been recently given the sliglatest intimation of a dispo- | brought thither for iuterment. The resition to kick, she would have unnerved mains of the poor old man were tricked me for the rest of the day.

out (as is usual in the south) in a tawdry I hurried my cicerone from La Certosa, || suit of full dress, and were placed, as if in and charged him, as he valued his future mockery of mortality, in an upright posidollars, to shew me thenceforth nothing tion, on an elevated velvet chair. His but what was human. Poor Caetano was

head was sunken upon his breast, but the all obsequiousness, and we rapidly returned expression of his features was not like that to Palermo and the haunts of men. The of sleep. I did not pause to examine the carriage stopped at the gate of a convent; l humiliating symptoms of change and disI was informed that it was necessary to solution, whicii were stampt on the descend; and before I knew whither I was visage of the deceased; but proceeded going, I found myself in the catacombs hastily to the hotel, where my first business of the Capuchins. Here fresh horrors

was to dismiss Caetano, whose face had awaited me. These galleries of the dead, I become associated with so many disagreewbich surround a considerable subterra

able impressions. nean square, are lined by a grisly band of

Since I could not deny, that in confining human corpses, each in an erect position, | himself at last to human exhibitions, be and dried by an artificial process. The had kept the word of promise to mine different stages of decay to which time ear, though he had most woefully broken had reduced these mouldering exuviæ, the it to my hope, I thought myself bound fantastic attitude into which the progress to pay him his stipulated dollars, and of desiccation had thrown the limbs of then—" Now," said I, “to dinner with some, the tattered garments and blackened what appetite I may." Scarcely howfibres, still clinging to the skeletons of all, ever, had I helped myself to a spoonful presented the most hideous picture of death of maccaroni, when the grateful wretch and distortion which it was ever my lot to

came running back to inform me that the witness. Among the rest I observed the execution of a murderer was just about to grinning remains of one of the Norman | take place, and that if I would trouble Kings of Tunis, a gilded crown upon his myself to step to the window, I might see skull, and a tarnished sceptre in his impo- the malefactor pass. Already the chaunt tent and bony fingers. Even “Tibalt fester of the processiou was heard in the adjoined in his shroud," was not wanting to com- ing street; so that, as eating was now plete the group; for the friars pointed out out of the question, I no longer hesitated to me the body of a Sicilian duellist, slain to put myself on board the Neapolitan in a violent rencontre, and shewed with packet, which carried me from Sicily peculiar satisfaction, the set teeth, the for ever. cootracted muscles, and the deep gash on


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