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many in bands à la Madonna. The white || declined in tavour. Muslin dresses are hats were ornamented with plumes of white ornamented round the border with lettings feathers, and dark lilac ribbons: on the Leg- || in of broad lace or rich embroidery, with horn hats, the feathers were fixed in the form muslin bouilloné, puffings or quillings: a of diadems, behind a band of leghorn: these pattern, in open work, of large leaves, is feathered diadems were composed of very much admired on white dresses. Gowns small cocks' feathers of every colour, and of gros de Naples have a simple and tasteful mixed with those of the peacock's neck. trimming round the border, which is com
The hats, which are placed very back-posed of two rows of laurel leaves, cut in ward, are many of them of a lemon colour satin: there is a space between each row of or a ponceau ; they are ornamented with about three fingers in breath, and a space matted ribbon and olive branches, and have between each two leaves that gives them a a veil of striped ganze thrown back. Over very light appearance: the leaves have a the crowns of Leghorn hats is often seen a vertical direction at the mancherons, and on plaid handkerchief, forming a kind of Turk- the corsage they are rar.ged in bias in double ish turban, and some are tied down simply | rows : the belt is made to correspond, by with a silk handkerchief. The finest straw having two leaves in front instead of a rohats are the least ornamented: some are sette, which are fastened together by a clasp. merely ornamented with one bow of ribbon, | When dresses are ornamented round the or one single flower, which is often a musk border by founces, the founces are Auted, rose, or a variegated ruse, half yellow half and set on in festoons; some are placed in pink, or half pink and cinnamon brown. || bias, in short festoons. Yellow crape bats are very fashionable, with On Sunday night's performances at the yellow flowers and binding. Straw gauze is theatres, the dress of the ladies is generally a favourite article for carriage hats; they much studied: several are attired in a style are trimmed with ribbons of the same of the most affected simplicity, and all their .colour, and yellow wild roses. Cotton hats, | ornaments consist in a polished steel buckle in imitation of straw, are generally orna
to fasten their belts in front. Watered mented with a plume of curled feathers, of tabby ribbons, of a wild poppy colour, have a rose colour; on rice-straw hats is gene- a beautiful effect as sashes, when worn with rally thrown a rose-coloured veil, in elegant black lace dresses. drapery, with long tassels at each corner, Turbans of striped gauze, of a rose coand a band of straw round the crown; these lour, with beautiful long flat white ostrichhats are tied under the chiu with a large feathers, are much worn in full dress: how: some hats are ornamented with lau- | where the feathers are fastened is a clasp restina, branches of hawthorn, wood straw- of polished steel, in the middle of a knot of berries, and half ripe pine strawberries. ribbon. A new kind of dress cap is also of Striped gauze hats, of rose and lemon colour, pink striped gauze, ornamented with ranunor of bright jonquil, are much in favour for culuses of a gold colour and a red brown: the carriage.
they are very becoming to ladies who have Short sleeves are very prevalent, even in dark hair, and who are, at the same time, undress; doe-skin gloves are worn with fair and ruddy. them, that tie above the elbow. Gowns of Parasols are of the yellow of the butterbarège silk are much worn; most of them cup; the handle terminates like the cadumade in the Mary Stuart style; but some ceus of Mercury. ladies resort to something more antique,
The shoes are of silk, the colour of and have their robes made à la Clotaire ; | Apollo's hair. Hair elegantly wrought is this latter dress is, however, very unclassi- || much in request for rings and bracelets, cally, made of Scotch plaid silk. The beau- | fastened with gold clasps. tiful sashes of gauze ribbons, with butterflies The new fans are made of isinglass, elepainted on them, have given rise to some gantly wrought, or adorned with paintings severe witticisms; but they have not anywsic representing coroncts and wreaths of flowers;
a ribbon of a colour to suit, runs through of fine India muslin, trimmed with lace; the mount, from the two side sticks, which, the hinder part of the body trimmed with when the fan is played, discovers two dif- white silk, in chain cordons, buttons, loops, ferent sides of the mount.
and tassels ; the border of the dress was A remarkable trinket has lately made its ornamented by a triple flounce, not unlike appearance, and one of a more curious kind || those of the present day. Shoes embroiwas never surely invented. It is a kind of dered in silver gave an elegant finish to the compass in miniature, which is suspended dress. from the neck, like a little watch. The Some ladies, at the conclusion of the dial, instead of indicating the different way month of October 1795, dressed their hair the wind blows only shews the four cardi- || in a manner that was by no means generally nal points.
The North, to which the becoming: part of the hair was combed needle always turns, is named Cape Fide- straight down on the forehead, a fashion set lity; the opposite side, which is the South, some years before by the famous Ann is called the Promontory of Inconstancy: Catley: the other part was arranged in the East and the West are designated by small curls; some of the hind hair fell in the names of the Land of Indifference and larger curls, with a very becoming neglithe Desert of Forgetfulness. As I said | gence; the rest of the hind hair was turned above, the needle is always turned to the up plain, and fell again in ringlets, which North Cape, but by means of a moving cir
were confined and ornamented with a white cle, the Land of Indifference may be placed satin rosetle ; the occupation of a hairunder the same point, or any other that in- dresser was then of great importance; and dicates the situation of the person's heart over the hair so tastefully disposed, or rather 'that wears the trinket.
drawn through it, was a plain but very fine The favourite colours are ponçeau and muslin handkerchief; or, sometimes a lady lemon colour, Spanish snuff, Apollo's hair, wore a white silk hat, trimmed with cocamel's hair, and rose colour.
loured crape, with a white ostrich feather,
curled only at the end, and placed on the REMARKS ON THE PROGRESSIVE right side near the front. A petticoat of
IMPROVEMENTS IN FASHIONS fine clear lawn, with the border richly AND DRESS.
worked, and a body of coloured taffety, The present charming Duchess of Glou- trimmed behind with black silk chain and cester, when Princess Mary, was the first buttons, and white satin sleeves, was a very seen with her fine hair dressed with a bow favourite evening dress : to the body was in front; this fashion was eagerly followed affixed a train of clear lawn trimmed with in the year 1795; the rest of the hair was
lace. Gold ornaments, intermingled with arranged in loose ringlets. Round dresses | large pearls, and white satin shoes emhad not, however, yet become general : the broidered with silver, completed this tastepetticoat was of fine muslin, and a robe of | ful dress. the same; and this muslin petticoat and No changes worth recording took place robe formed a favourite dress at the different | in English costume till the year 1799, when watering places: the robe was trimmed
for loose Grecian dresses and black round the neck and down the sides with || sick stockings caused the wits to be merry lace: the sleeves were short, and the waist at the expense of those fashionable ladies encircled by a sash.
who played high at cards; saying, that the For the Evening-dress, the front and side | English ladies of quality had become Greeks hair was dressed in a variety of small and || and black-legs! We are sorry to say too that large curls, while the waist was encircled the bosom, legs and ancles, were, this year, by a narrow sash of coloured ribbon; a very indecorously displayed: the shoulderblack
gauze scarf was a favourite drapery || stripping fashion became so general, that för out-door costume, at evening visits. A females seemed to vie with each other who beautiful round dress made its appearance, should expose her back thc most.
What makes this conduct the more re- a petticoat: over this chemise was prehensible in English women, ever emi- wrapper with short sleeves, girded round nent for modesty both of conduct and de- the middle. No stays, no petticoat nor meanour, is, that they copied this nudity pockets, nor any thing on the head; the shift from the (then) female savages of France, and wrapper constituting the whole dress, where the most stylish dress in 1799 con- | except shoes and stockings. We cannot sisted solely of a chemise reaching just forbear crying out with the old Commères of above the ancles, and ornamented by fringe, France belonging to the old school,—“ Fi. embroidery, or flounces, so that it resembled | donc !”
THE CORONATION OF HIS MAJESTY GEORGE IV.
To describe this brilliant and affecting || and a chaste magnificence could devise; spectacle in suitable terms, to convey to the scene has been graced by every thing the mere reader an adequate conception of that talent, virtue, and valour could furnish, the admiration, the delight, and the varied every thing that is delightful in the annals feelings of the actual spectator, is indeed of British Chivalry, and venerable in our beyond the power of language. Fully constitution : they have seen this grand aware of this impossibility, we shall equally display of our highest national ceremony avoid that prolixity of description which attended by a simultaneous shout of welproduces a mere table of the procession, come and enthusiastic admiration from the and the rhapsody which, while it is over- rank and beauty of the land, and from charged, is without distinctness, and is te-countless myriads of all orders and dedious in its detail, without being satisfac- || grees. They have seen this consummation torily minute. We saw and heard with of their hopes, and now unite in extolling the eye and with the feelings of an artist, the measures which determined it, and in and shall narrate with strict fidelity, and warm congratulation at the happy result. with the impression of the scene upon our It is a matter of no small importance on hearts.
an occasion like this, that we can record so It is impossible to reflect on the manner extensive a ceremonial without the alloy in which his Majesty's Coronation has been of any material personal accident to any of celebrated without feelings of honest ex- its spectators; and it is with sincere pleaultation and triumph. Those who, with sure we announce that the splendid cerethe best feeling, objected to the measure at mony of Thursday was conducted throughthis particular period, as involving an ex- out with the most perfect order, and though pense which they did not consider to be the assemblage of the people was unprecestrictly necessary, and those who affected dented in point of numbers, the harmony, to regard it as a splendid pageant unsuited exhilaration and rejoicing, were not tainted to the sober sense of the age, now unite in by the smallest disorder, nor accompanied applauding the firmness which determined by the slightest accident. It appeared as upon the measure, in admiration of the if the whole metropolis and its vicinity had taste with which so much necessary splen- poured forth their entire population. Shops dour has been displayed, and in perfect sa- were shut-all business ceased—and the tisfaction at the temper and dignity with whole world seemed to be animated by one which supposed points of difficulty have sentiment of exultation at the magnificent been overcome.
and various pleasures which had been preThey have witnessed the most brilliant pared for the festive occasion. The streets, spectacle, perhaps, ever seen in Europe, during the whole night, were crowded with they have seen this truly regal festival as- ladies and gentlemen, in full dresses, hursisted by every thing that taste, ingenuity, rying to Westminster Hall and Abbey, or to take their stations in the numerous gay All the arrangements were finally made erections which had been prepared to afford on Wednesday night. The High Bailiff of the spectators a near view of the Royal Westminster, (A. Morris, Esq.) the High Procession.
Constable, (Mr. Lee) and the several MaDuring Tuesday and Wednesday night, gistrates of the different police offices, Sir in order that no unnecessary interruption Robert Baker, Mr. Birnie, Mr. Mainwaring, might be experienced in the public tho- Mr. Raynsford, Mr. Markland, &c. under roughfares during the day-time, the work- the advice and with the approbation of men, under the direction of the Board of Lord Sidmouth, agreed upon at the office Works, were busily engaged in raising bar- of the Home Secretary of State, adopted a riers at different points that commanded plan of general and particular operations. the streets and passes leading to Westmin- Each Magistrate had his different station ster Hall or Abbey. From Charing-cross a allotted to him, with a specified number of stout barrier was placed (about 15 feet from the police officers to attend his commands the pavement) to Parliament-street, so that and enforce his instructions. the fullest possible room, about 20 feet in Besides the precautions taken in the sewidth, should be secured for persons having veral streets, and at the various thoroughtickets of admission to the Hall, the Abbey, fares, as already described, arrangements or the Coronation Galleries. And a still of a similar character were adopted at the stronger barrier was raised along the centre several approaches from the River Thames. of Parliament-street, one side only being in the course of the night, the stairs, landappropriated to carriages going towards ing places, &c. along the Westminster side the scene of universal attraction. Across of the Banks of the Thames, were closed, Bridge-street, as well as in King-street, with parties to command them, from the and the neighbouring thoroughfares, all the Hungerford to the Horseferry Stairs.carriage entrances were wholly blockaded ; || Some exceptions were made regarding the thus securing the most commodious means Stairs at Whitehall, and a temporary landto persons proceeding on foot to the dif- || ing place formed at the lower end of the ferent places for which they possessed ad- Speaker's garden, for the accommodation mission tickets. At all these points were of the Treasury and Ordnance Barges, constationed constables, supported by parties veying certain Great Officers of State, some of military; and at the several passes were parties of Peeresses, &c. as well as the placed experienced individuals, who had barges of the Lord Mayor, Aldermen, Shebeen instructed in their various duties. riffs, and citizens of London. And at this They examined the tickets and the preten- entrance proper precautions were taken by sions of the several persons applying to stationing a civil force in the Speaker's pass on to the Abbey, Hall, houses, or gal gardens; while in the river, these reguleries. They were previously made ac- lations were strengthened by the Thames quainted with the mode in which the va- police boats and a gun-brig moored off rious tickets of the Lord Great Chamber- Westminster-bridge. lain (Lord Gwydir) for the Hall, and the The Platform. The temporary boarding Earl Marshal of England (Lord Howard of placed up each side of the Platform, some Effingham, Acting Deputy) were prepared, weeks ago, to prevent damage, by indiscrimisigned, and superscribed; and they were Hate visitors travelling over it day and night, also provided with good general means of was completely removed in the early part of judging of the authenticity of cards for the the morning. On its removal, the Platform different galleries. Every arrangement was presented a lively and finished appearance. made to accomplish the great advantage of The railing on each side of it was covered clear roads and facilities of approach; and with purple cloth, and the flooring was cothe regulations adopted at those points, vered to the extent of sixteen feet, leaving passes, and barriers already noticed, were about a yard on each side uncovered, with provided at the other stations.
the same sort of blue cloth.
The awnings were drawn, but at short From each of the angles formed by the distances red lines were placed, by which ends of the hammer-beams in the roof, was command was had of them, to close or suspended by a gilt chain a large splendid spread them as cireumstances might re- cut-glass lustre, with broad ornamented gilt quire. To each line and pulley was allotted rims and frames, containing three circles of one man, with a partieular dress, so that wax candles, being between 40 and 50 in the most rapid change of the awnings could each lustre. be effected, should the weather require any The first and second galleries had matchange in their position, while the addition tings and scarlet coverings. The royal box of a staff enabled these men likewise to on the right, and the foreigners' box on the act as constables. There were also placed, left side of the royal table, were entirely on each side of the Platform, along the lined with scarlet cloth, festooned in front, whole range of it, men provided with pin- and ornamented with gold fringe. cers, hammers, &c. to repair any damage The throne seat and the royal table that might happen to the Platform itself, attracted general admiration. With the or whatever was calculated to impede the exception of the large fluted columns, the progress of the Procession, and its attendant royal seat and canopy are in the style of the ceremonies. These men were also supplied throne in the House of Lords. The back with a like livery, with staves of office as is crimson velvet, with the royal arms emconstables.
broidered on it, and the limits are decorated The Coronation Galleries. The immense with gold ornaments. The canopy is square, range of galleries in the fronts of houses with a raised and variegated gold cornice in New Palace-yard, along the Exchequer round. The centre displayed a splendid Offices and Chambers, over the Cham-crown, underneath which are G. R. IV. pion's Stables, in Parliament-street and Underneath the cornice is a crimson velvet square, in George-street, in St. Margaret's vallance, separated into divisions, the lower Church-yard, in the large spaces, on gar- || portion of each division being rounded with dens and squares, between the Parliament gold, while its centre is decorated with House and Sessions House, it would be im- | gold, embroidered, and raised ornaments possible to particularise. The magnitude illustrative of the military orders, and of of these accommodations, their uniformity, the emblems of the United Kingdom, the and convenience, have excited the wonder Rose, the Thistle, the Harp, &c. The chair of the inhabitants of this great metropolis, is equally splendid; the arms and legs conand of thousands from all parts of the coun- sist of rich carved work gilt, with crimson try, who have repaired to town solely with velvet back also ornamented. the view of witnessing the preparations. About nine o'clock on Wednesday night All these galleries underwent the strictest the King left Carlton Palace for the house investigation, by surveyors appointed for of the Speaker of the House of Commons the purpose ; and all possible precautions in Palace-yard, where his Majesty slept on to prevent accidents were adopted. Wednesday night. His Majesty's coach
Westminster Hall.-Of the preparations was escorted by a strong detachment of the within the Hall for the ceremonies pre- Oxford Blues, accoutred as cuirassiers. They ceding, and the banquet following his Ma- | made a most beautiful appearance. The jesty's Coronation, the coup d'ail was of the carriage drove at a rapid rate across the most pleasing and imposing character ; the parade in St. James's Park, through Stogalleries along each side of the Hall, the rey's-gate and Great George-street. His tower and turrets over the grand entrance, Majesty was recognised by the crowd on and the Royal platform and table, were his passage, and saluted with every expresfinished in the highest order. The new win- || sion of loyalty and attachment. Previous dows in the roof, and the recently-completed to the departure of his Majesty from Carlton lantern upwards of 40 feet high on the centre Palace, the crowd between Storey's gate and of the roof, greatly improved the effect. Westminster Hall had been cleared by the