III.

SNOW-STORM IN THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS-EMPIRE CITY TO IDAHO, CENTRAL, GOLDEN AND DENVER CITIES-VIRGINIA CAÑON-RUSSELL GULCH-QUARTZ MILLS AT BLACK-HAWK—-JUNCTION RANCH-GUY'S HILL-CLEAR CREEK CAÑON-ENTRANCE INTO DENVER, ETC., ETC.

DENVER CITY, COLORADO, Thursday, Sept. 20, 1866.

ON the morning of September 19th, we awakened at Empire City to find that we were in the midst of a Rocky Mountain snow-storm. The weather for several days previous had been delightful-even on the day before, during our visit to Berthoud Pass, not a cloud had bedimmed the sky until after sunset, when thin, hazy clouds began to settle below the mountain tops around us, all which, we were told, foreboded a storm.

As our venerable driver had not succeeded in his attempt to impose his old mules upon our worthy host of the Empire House, in exchange for a pair of horses, we were compelled to address ourselves to our return journey behind these much-abused animals; and he to resume his powerful persuasives of the previous two days. The snow had not accumulated to any great extent upon the roads; but it was falling fast, and prudence enjoined us to be early on our way. Our hitherto guide, and most intelligent and agreeable travelling companion, Mr. Brown, remained at Empire, for the purpose, when the storm abated, of rejoining his surveying party in the neighborhood of Boulder Pass.

RETURN FROM EMPIRE.'

Starting out at eight, we reached Idaho at ten in the morning, and stopped a few minutes to say some parting words to our friends of the Beebe House. We then commenced the ascent of the Virginia Cañon, and the descent of Russell Gulch, a distance of seven miles to Central City, which we reached at twelve.

I should not omit to mention, that in driving from Idaho to Empire the previous morning, we had met Messrs. Gukin and Ford, artists from Chicago, who were engaged in taking some mountain views; and were on their return from the Parks, where they had been spending the summer months. At their invitation we had promised to call at their camp as we returned, and look over their pictures; but the morning was so stormy, and their quarters looked so uninviting, that we contented ourselves with a passing salute, and a promise to visit their studios in Chicago on some future occasion. The place where we met these gentlemen is but a few miles from the Chicago Lakes, the scene of Bierstadt's great painting of the "Storm in the Rocky Mountains."

The snow had fallen to a depth of from six to eight inches on our arrival at Central City; and we were fully conscious of having lost, by reason of the thick-falling snow, as we passed down Russell Gulch to Central City, many fine views, as well as a passing inspection of some of the finest and most extensive quartz mining and crushing operations now being carried on in this part of the Territory. The result, however, was unavoidable, and we were obliged to content ourselves with such information. as our venerable driver could give us, he being familiar with the country, and part owner of some of

the mines around us, as well as of the outfit in which we were travelling.

CENTRAL CITY.

Central City seems to be situated at the confluence of several gulches, which, united, form the north branch of Clear Creek; and the streets are made to follow the windings of the beds of the streams. The houses are generally built upon benches cut in the side hill for the different stories, with basements upon the streets; so that, in order to reach the cellar or back-yard, you are frequently compelled to ascend one or two pairs of stairs from the office or dining-room of your hotel. I mention this fact, not so much the result of my own observation, as from information derived from my esteemed friend and travelling companion, Mr. Williams, who spent at least a half hour in an investigation of the subject, immediately upon our arrival at the hotel. Central City boasts of several thousand inhabitants, or, at least, as many as Denver. We noticed several fine blocks of brick and granite buildings, two or three large banking houses, and also the "Big Barn," situated directly in the centre of the city, and which seems to be the general corral for all the town and surrounding country.

After partaking of a very good dinner, and giving such attention to our surroundings as the gloomy state of the weather would permit, we held a consultation as to our future movements. It had been our intention, on leaving Denver, to spend the present afternoon and night here, which would give us an opportunity to examine many of the mines, as well as quartz mills in the vicinity. Mr. Chaffee, Senator-elect from this forthcoming State, whom we had met in Denver, had very kindly promised

to meet us here and show us about; but the violent storm had evidently prevented his coming.

It had also been our desire and intention to spend the one or two following days in an examination of the Boulder Valley and Pass, under the guidance of Mr. Rawlins, whose works are situated on the Boulder; and whom we had met in Denver; but he was nowhere to be found. The storm was still raging and the weather growing colder. Icicles a foot in length were hanging from the eaves of the houses. Our venerable driver and more venerable mules also became objects of our deepest solicitude—the driver claiming that the outfit was unfit to go further this stormy day; but if we would let him and the mules rest till to-morrow morning, he would then drive us to Denver (forty miles), or perish in the attempt.

We finally concluded that, as the main object of our journey had been accomplished; and as the state of the weather rendered a further examination of mountain passes and scenery exceedingly unpropitious at the present time, we would turn our faces toward Denver, with a view of reaching there on the following night. To insure this result, it appeared important that we should accomplish a portion of the distance during the present afternoon. We therefore set out again in the storm at four P. M., with the intention of reaching the Junction Ranch, nine miles distant, before nightfall.

BLACK-HAWK AND LYONS MILLS.

On our way down the valley of North Clear Creek, we passed through the town of Black-Hawk, about two miles below Central City, where we stopped an hour to examine two of the largest quartz mills now in operation in this valley. One, the Black-Hawk mill, which adheres to the

old method of stamping and washing the ores from the quartz; and the other, the Lyons mill, in which the new process of decomposing the quartz and separating the ores by the action of heat, is being carried on.

This matter of separating the precious metals from the quartz, is one of vast importance to the mining interests of Colorado; and he who shall first succeed in economically and successfully accomplishing the object, will be entitled to the lasting gratitude of "all the world and the rest of mankind." The exact and proper process seems yet to be hidden in the womb of the future; and many an alchemist is now racking his brain, and experimenting in his crucible over his midnight lamp, in the hope of first discovering this great secret in chemical science, which the Almighty has, for some great and wise purpose, thus far withheld from us.

JUNCTION, OR BOUTWELL'S RANCH.

Our journey up the long hill of four or five miles, between the valley of Clear Creek and Junction, was most tedious and uncomfortable. Like most other obstacles in this world, however, it was finally surmounted; and on descending one or two miles beyond the summit, we found ourselves in front of a most excellent and hospitable Ranch, kept by Mr. Boutwell, with a huge fire blazing from a large, old-fashioned fire-place, inviting us to comfort and repose.

A hearty supper, good night's rest, and early breakfast, enabled us on the following morning to resume our journey with every prospect of reaching Denver before night. The storm had passed over, and the weather was clear and cold-snow one foot deep, ice one inch thick, and the thermometer sixteen degrees above zero. Our venerable