1 left leg over.the right (at the time when the right leg is just come to the ground), with the left rein crossed towards the right, and keeping the right shoulder back with the right rein towards your body, in order to facilitate the left leg's crossing over the right; and so likewise vice versâ to the left, each rein helping the other by their properly mixed effects. In working to the right the rider's left leg helps the hinder parts on to the right, and his right leg stops them if they get too forwards; and so vice versâ to the left: but neither ought to be used, till the hand being employed in a proper manner has failed, or finds that a greater force is necessary to bring about what is required than it can effect alone; for the legs should not only be corresponding with, but also subservient to, the hand; and all unnecessary aids, as well as all force, ought always to be avoided as much as possible. In the execution of all lessons the equilibrium of the rider's body is of great use to the horse; it ought always to go with, and accompany every motion of the animal; when to the right, to the right; and when to the left, to the left. Upon all horses, in every lesson and action, it must be observed, that there is no horse but has his own peculiar appui or degree of bearing, and also a sensibility of mouth, as likewise a rate of his own, which it is absolutely necessary for the rider to discover. A bad rider always takes off at least the delicacy of both. The horse will inform his rider when he has got his proper bearing in the mouth, by playing pleasantly and steadily with his bit, and by the spray about his chaps. A delicate and good hand will not only always preserve a light appui or bearing in his sensibility; but also of a heavy one, whether natural or acquired, make a light one. The lighter this appui can be made, the better, provided that the rider's hand corresponds with it; if it does not, the more the horse is properly prepared, so much the worse. Instances of this inconvenience of the best of appuis, when the rider is not equally taught with the horse, may be seen every day. Gentlemen try to get their horses bitted, as they call it, without being suitable prepared themselves for riding them; the consequence of which is, that they ride in danger of breaking their necks; till at length, after much pulling about, and by the joint insensibility and ignorance of themselves and grooms, the poor horse gradually becomes a mere senseless unfeeling automaton; and thereby grows what is called settled. When the proper appui is found, and made of course as light as possible, it must not be kept duly fixed without any variation, but be played with; otherwise one equally continued tension of reins would render both the rider's hand and the horse's mouth very dull. Slight and frequent giving and taking is therefore necessary to keep both perfect. Whatever pace or degree of quickness you work in, be it ever so fast, or ever so slow, it must be cadenced; time is as necessary for a horseman as for a musician. This lesson of the head and of the tail to the wall is especially to be taught every soldier; scarcely any manoeuvre can be performed without it. In closing and opening files, it is almost every mon wanted. SECT. V.-OF MAKING HORSES STAND FILL, T Endure Noises, ALARMS, SIGHTS, & To make horses stand fire, the sound of dra and different noises, use them to it by degreec the stable at feeding-time; and, instead of b frightened at it, they will soon come to like be a signal for eating. With regard to such has as are afraid of burning objects, begin by ing them still at a certain distance from 2 lighted straw: caress the horse; and in pros tion as his fright diminishes, bring gradual burning straw nearer, and increase the size d By this means he may very quickly be brough be so familiar with it, as to walk undaunted through it. As to horses that are apt to lie down nu water, if animating them, and attacking vigorously, should not have the desired ef<, then break a straw-bottle full of water upon the heads, and let the water run into their ears, wis. is a thing they dislike very much. All troop horses must be taught to stand qua and still when they are fired from, to stop moment you present, and not to move after irag till they are required to do it: in short, horse must be taught to suffer the rider to as upon him with the same freedom as if he wa foot. Patience, coolness, and temper, are th only means requisite for accomplishing this end. Begin by walking the horse gently; then stop and keep him from stirring for some time, so a accustom him by degrees not to have the has idea of moving without orders: if he does, ten back him: and when you stop him, and he s quite still, leave the reins loose. To use a horse to fire-arms, first put a pise or carabine in the manger with his seed; the use him to the sound of the lock and the par; after which, when you are upon him, show the piece to him, presenting it forwards, sometimes on one side, sometimes on the other: when he is thus far reconciled, proceed to flash in the pan; after which, put a small charge into the piece, and so continue augmenting it by degrees to the quantity which is commonly used: if be seems uneasy, walk him forward a few steps slowly; and then stop, back, and caress him. Horses are also often disquieted and unsteady a the clash, and drawing, and returning of swords; all which they must be familiarised to gradually and gently. It is necessary for cavalry in general, but particularly for light cavalry horses, to be very ready and expert in leaping ditches, hedges, gates, &c. The leaps, of whatever sort, to which horses are at first brought, ought to be very small, and the rider must keep his body back, raise his hands a little in order to help the fore parts of the horse up, and be very attentive to his equilibrium. It is best to begin at a low bar covered with furze, which pricking the horse's legs, if he does not raise himself sufficiently, prevents his con tracting a sluggish and dangerous habit of touching, as he goes over. Let the ditches also you first bring horses to be narrow. Accustom them to come up to every thing which they are to leap over, and to stand coolly at it for some time; then to raise themselves gently up in order to form an idea of the distance. When they leap well standing, use them to walk gently up to the leap, and to go over it without first halting at it. After this practice is familiar to them, repeat it in a gentle trot, and so by degrees faster and faster, till at length it is as familiar to them to leap flying on a full gallop as another way. As horses are apt to be frightened at the sight and smell of the dead of their own species, it is advisable to habituate them to walk and leap over carcasses; but the greatest gentleness ought here to be used. Horses should also be accustomed to swim; and a very small portion of strength is sufficient to guide a horse in the water, where they must be permitted to heave their heads, and be no way constrained The practice of cutting off extremities from horses is in all cases very pernicious. It is particularly so in regard to a troop-horse's tail. It is almost incredible how much they suffer at the piquet for the want of it; kicking about and laming one another; whilst other horses, with their tails on, brush off all flies, are cool and at their ease, and mend daily. SECT. VI.-OF REINING BACK, AND MOVING FORWARD IMMEDIATELY AFTER; PIAFING PILLARS, &c. Never finish your work by reining back with horses that have any disposition towards retaining themselves; but always move them forwards, and a little upon the haunches also, after it, before you dismount, unless they retain themselves very much indeed; in which case nothing at all Inust be demanded from the haunches. This lesson of reining back, and piafing, is proper to conclude with, and puts a horse well on the haunches: it may be done, according as horses are more or less suppled, either going forward, backing, or in the same place: if it is done well advancing, or at most on the same spot, it is sufficient for a soldier's horse. For to piafe in backing is too much to be expected in the hurry of training numbers of men and horses together. This lesson should indeed never be attempted at all, till horses are very well suppled, and accustomed to be put together; otherwise it will create restiveness. If they refuse to back, and stand motionless, the rider's legs must be approached with the greatest gentleness to the horse's sides: at the same time that the hand is acting on the reins to solicit his backing. This seldom fails of procuring the desired effect, by raising one of the horse's fore legs, which is consequently very easily brought backwards by a small degree of tension in the reins. Well performed, this lesson is particularly serviceable, when pillars are used. Very few regimental riding-houses have pillars, and it is fortunate they have not; for though, when used with skill, they are one of the greatest and best discoveries in horsemanship; they must be allowed to be very dangerous and pernicious when not under proper direction. SECT. VII.-Of CURING RESTIVENESS, VICI OUSNESS, STARTING, &c. Whenever a horse makes resistance, one ought to examine very minutely all the tackle about him; if any thing hurt or tickle him; whether he have any natural or accidental weakness, &c. For want of this precaution many disasters happen, and the animal is frequently accused falsely of being restive and vicious. Correction, according to the way it is used, throws a horse into more or less violent action, which, if he be weak, he cannot support; but a vicious strong horse is to be considered in a very different light, being able both to undergo, and consequently to profit by all lessons; and is far preferable to the best natured weak one upon earth. Patience and attention are never failing means to reclaim such a horse; in whatsoever manner he defends himself, bring him back frequently with gentleness (not, however, without having given him proper chastisement if necessary) to the lesson which he seems most averse to. Horses are by degrees made obedient, through the hope of reward and the fear of punishment. To blend the operation of the two judiciously together is very difficult; requiring much thought and practice, a good head, and a good disposition. The coolest and best-natured rider will always succeed best. If a horse be impatient, or choleric, never strike him, unless he absolutely refuse to go forward; which you must then resolutely oblige him to do, and which will be of itself a correction. Resistance in horses is sometimes a mark of strength and vigor, and proceeds from spirit, as well as sometimes from viciousness or weakness. Great care should, therefore, be taken to distinguish from which of these causes a horse's resistance arises, before any remedy or punishment is adopted. It is sometimes a bad sign when horses do not at all resist, and may proceed from a sluggish disposition. Horses again are oftener spoilt by having too much done to them, and by attempts to dress them in too great a hurry. After a horse has been well suppled, if there are no impediments, natural or accidental, and he still resist, chastisement becomes necessary; but this must not be frequent, but always firm, and as little violent as possible. Some horses have quicker parts and more cunning than others. Many will imperceptibly gain a little every day on the rider. Various, in short, are their dispositions and capacities. It is the rider's business to find these out, and to make a horse sensible of attachment, but at the same time that he will be master. Plunging is a common defence among restive and vicious horses; if they do it while backing, they must, by the rider's legs and spurs firmly applied, be obliged to go forward, and their heads kept up high. But, if they do it flying forwards, keep them back, and ride them gently and very slow for a good while together. Of all bad tempers and qualities in horses, those which are occasioned by harsh treatment and ignorant riders are the worst. Rearing is a vicious habit, and, in weak horses especially, a very dangerous one. While the horse is up, the rider must yield his hand; and, when the horse is descending, he must vigorously determine him forwards; if this be done at any other time but while the horse is coming down, it may add a spring to his rearing, and make him fall backwards. With a skilful hand on them, horses seldom persist in this habit. If the foregoing method fail, make the horse kick up behind by getting somebody on foot to strike him behind with a whip; or by pricking him with a goad. Starting often proceeds from a defect in the sight, which, therefore, must be carefully examined. Whatever the horse is afraid of, bring him up to gently, and caress him at every step. Nothing but great gentleness can correct this fault. If you let him pass the object without bringing him up to it, you increase the fault, and confirm him in his fear. Before such horses as are to a great degree fearful of any object, make a quiet horse, proceed towards it, and gradually entice them to approach nearer and nearer. If the horse thus alarmed be undisciplined and headstrong, he will probably run away with his rider; when his head must be kept up high, and the snafile moved backwards and forwards from right to left, taking up and yielding the reins of it, as well as the reins of the bit; but this last must not be moved backwards and forwards like the snaffle, but only taken up and yielded properly. No man ever yet did, or ever will, stop a horse, or gain any point over him by main force, or by pulling against him. SECT. VIII-RULES FOR INEXPERIENCED HORSEMEN. : On this subject Mr. Thompson has given the following rules:-In the first place, every horse should be accustomed to stand still when he is mounted. One would imagine this might be readily granted; yet we see how much the contrary is practised. When a gentleman mounts at a livery stable, the groom takes the horse by the bit, which he bends tight round his under jaw the horse, striving to go on, is forced back; advancing again, he frets, as he is again stopped short, and hurt by the manner of holding him. The rider, in the mean time, mounting without the bridle, or at least holding it but slightly, is helped to it by the groom, who, being thoroughly employed by the horse's fluttering, has at the same time both bridle and stirrup to give. This confusion would be prevented, if every horse were taught to stand still when he is mounted. Forbid your groom, therefore, when he rides your horse to water, to throw himself over from a horse-block, and kick him with his leg even before he is fairly upon him. This wrong manner of mounting is what chiefly teaches horses this vicious habit. A constant practice of mounting in the proper manner is all that is necessary to prevent a hoise from going on till the rider is fairly in the saddle. A common method is to stand near the croup or hinder part of the horse, with the bridle held long. By this manner of holding the bridle, before you mount, you are liable to be kicked; and, when you are mounted, your horse may go on some time, or play what gambols he pleases, hefore the rein is short enough in your hand to prevent him. It is common likewise for an awkward rider, as soon as his foot is in the stirrup, to throw himself with all his force to gain his seat; which he cannot do, perhaps, til he has first overbalanced himself on one side or the other. The way to mount with ease and safety is, to stand rather before than behind the stirrup. In this posture take the bridle short, and the mane together in your left hand, helping yourself to your stirrup with your right, so that your toe may not touch the horse in moulting. When your left foot is in the stirrup, move on your right, till you face the side of the horse, looking across over the saddle. Then with your right hand grasp the hinder part of the saddle; and with that and your left, which holds the mane and bridle, lift yourself upright on your left foot. Remain thus a mere instant on your stirrup, only so as to divide the action into two motions. While you are in this posture you have a sure hold with both hands, and are at liberty either to get safely down, or to throw your leg over and gain your seat. By this dele berate motion likewise you avoid, what every good horseman will endeavour to avoid, putting the horse into a flutter. To dismount, hold the bridle and mane together in your left hand, as when you mounted; put your right hand on the pommel of the saddle, to raise yourself; throw your leg back over the horse; grasp the hinder part of the saddle with your right hand; remain a moment on your stirrup; and in every respect reverse the actions of mounting your horse. Take care not to bend your right knee in dismounting, lest your spur should rub against the horse. When you ride, hold your bridle at a conve nient length. Sit square, and let not the purchase of the bridle pull forward your shoulder: but keep your body even, as it would be if eac hand held a rein. Hold your reins with the whole grasp of your hand, dividing them with your little finger. Let your hand be perpendicular; your thumb will then be uppermost and placed on the bridle. Bend your wrist a little outward; and, when you pull the bridle, raise your hand towards your breast, and the lower part of the palm rather more than the upper. Let the bridle be at such a length in your hand, as, if the horse should stumble, you may be able to raise his head, and support it by the strength of your arms, and the weight of your body thrown backward. If you hold the rein too long, you are subject to fall backward as your horse rises. If, knowing your horse perfectly well, you think a tight rein unnecessary, advance your arm a little (but not your shoulder) towards the horse's head, and keep your usual length of rein. By this means you have a check upon your horse, while you indulge him. If you ride with a curb, make it a rule to hook on the chain yourself; the most quiet horse may bring his rider into danger, should the curb hurt him. If, in fixing the curb, you turn the chain to the right, the links will unfold themselves, and then oppose a farther turning. Put on the chain loose enough to hang down cu the horse's under lip, so that it may not rise and ་ press his jaw till the reins of the bridle are moderately pulled. If your horse has been used to stand still when he is mounted, there will be no occasion for a groom to hold him; hut if he does, suffer him not to touch the reins, but that part of the bridle which comes down the cheek of the horse. He cannot then interfere with the management of the reins, which belongs to the rider only; and holding a horse by the curb (which is ever painful to him) is evidently improper when he is to stand still. Take care not to ride with your arms and elbows as high as your shoulders; nor let them shake up and down with the motion of the horse. The posture is unbecoming, and the weight of the arms (and of the body too if the rider does not sit still) acts in continual jerks on the jaw of the horse, which must give him pain, and make him unquiet, if he has either a tender mouth or any spirit. Riders wonder why horses are gentle as soon as they are mounted by skilful horsemen. The reason is, the horse goes on at his ease, yet finds all his motions watched; which he has sagacity enough to discover. Such a rider hides his whip, if he finds his horse is afraid of it; and keeps his legs from his sides. Avoid the ungraceful custom of letting your legs shake against the sides of the horse: and as you are not to keep your arms and elbows high, and in motion, so you are not to rivet them to your sides, but let them fall easy: an awkward horseman seems flying off at all points. It is often said with emphasis, that such a o..e has no seat on horseback; meaning not only that he does not ride well, but that he does not sit on the right part of the horse. To have a good seat is to sit on that part of the horse which, as he springs, is the centre of motion; and from which, of course, any weight would be with most difficulty shaken. As in the rising and falling of a board, placed in equilibrio, the centre will be always most at rest, the true seat will be found in that part of your saddle into which your body would naturally slide if you rode without stirrups; and is only to be preserved by a proper poise of the body, though the generality of riders imagine it is to be done by the grasp of the thighs and knees. The rider should consider himself as united to his horse in this point; and, when shaken from it, endeavour to restore the balance. The mention of the two extremities of a bad seat may help to point out the true one. The one is, when the rider sits very far back on the saddle, so that his weight presses the loins of the horse; the other, when his body hangs forward over the pommel of the saddle. The first may be seen practised by grooms when they ride with their stirrups affectedly short; the latter by fearful horsemen on the least flutter of the horse. Every good rider has, even on the hunting saddle, as determined a place for his thighs as can be made for him by the bars of a demi-peak. Indeed there is no difference between the seat of either: only, as in the first you ride with shorter stirrups, your body will be consequently more behind your knees. To have a good seat for the rider, the saddle must fit well. In general the saddle presses as nearly as possible on that part which we have described as the point of union between the man and the horse; but so as not to obstruct the motion of the horse's shoulders. Place yourself in the middle or lowest part of it: sit erect; but with as little constraint as in a chair. The ease of action marks the good rider: you may repose yourself, but not lounge. The studied exactness acquired in the riding-house, by those whose deportment is not easy, appears ungenteel and unnatural. If your horse stops short, or endeavours, by raising and kicking, to unseat you, do not bend your body forward, as many do in those circumstances: that motion throws the breech forward, and the rider out of his seat; whereas the advancing the lower part of the body, and bending back the upper part and shoulders, is the method both to keep your seat, and to recover it when lost. The bending your body back, and that in a great degree, is the greatest security in flying leaps; it is a security, too, when your horse leaps standing. The horse's rising does not try the rider's seat; the lash of his hind legs ought chiefly to be guarded against, and is best done by the body being greatly inclined back. Stiffen not your legs or thighs; and let your body be pliable in the loins, like the coachman's on his box. This manner of sitting will counter-balance every rough motion of the horse; whereas the fixture of the knees, so commonly laid a stress on, will in great shocks conduce to the violence of the fall. Were the cricket-player, when the ball is struck with the greatest force, to hold his hand firm and fixed to receive it, the hand would be bruised, or perhaps the bones fractured by the resistance. To obviate this, he yields his hand to the motion of the ball for a certain distance; and thus, by a due mixture of opposition and obedience, catches it without sustaining the least injury. The case is exactly the same in riding: the skillful horseman will recover his poise by giving some way to the motion; and the ignorant horseman will be flung out of his seat by endeavouring to be fixed. Stretch not out your legs before you; this will push you against the back of the saddle; neither gather up your knees, like a man riding on a pack; this throws your thighs upwards; each practice unseats you. Keep your legs straight down; and sit not on the most fleshy part of the thighs, but turn them inwards, so as to bring in your knees and toes. It is more safe to ride with the ball of the foot pressing on the stirrup, than with the stirrup as far back as the heel; for the pressure of the heel, being in that case behind the stirrup, keeps the thighs down. When you find your thighs thrown upwards, widen your knees to get them and the upper part of your fork Tower down on the horse. Grasp the saddle with the hollow or inner part of your thighs, but not more than just to assist the balance of your body: this will also enable you to keep the spurs from the horse's sides, and to bring your toes in. Sink your heels straight down; for, while your heels and thighs keep down, you cannot fall; this, aided by the bend of the back, gives the security of a seat to those who bear themselves up in their stirrups in a swift gallop, or in the alternate rising and falling in full trot. continued pull, but stop, and back him just shaking the reins, and making the pulls till he obeys. Horses are so actsn Let your seat determine the length of your to bear on the bit when they go forward stirrups, rather than the stirrups your seat. If they are discouraged if the rider will not let he more precision is requisite, let your stirrups, in do so. If a horse is loose-necked, he wit the hunting saddle, be of such a length, as that, up his head at a continued pull; in what s when you stand in them, there may be the ation the rider, seeing the front of his tac breadth of four fingers between your seat and the have no power over him. When your saddle. It would greatly assist a learner, if he does thus, drop your hand, and give the tre would practice in a large circle, as directed in play, and he will of course drop his head Sect. II., without stirrups; keeping his face into its proper place: while it is coming w looking on the outward part of the circle, so as make a second gentle pull, and you wit not to have a full view of the horse's head, his mouth. With a little practice, this star but just of that which is on the outward part almost instantaneously; and this method #, of the circle; and his shoulder, which is to- stop, at the distance of a few yards, a w wards the centre of the circle, very forward. which will run away with those who pul att You thus learn to balance your body, and keep with all their might. a true seat, independent of your stirrups; you may probably likewise escape a fall, should you at any time lose them by being accidentally shaken from your seat. As the seat in some measure depends on the saddle, because a saddle with a high pommel is thought dangerous, the other extreme prevails, and the pommel is scarcely allowed to be higher than the middle of the saddle. The saddle should lie as near the back-bone as can be, without hurting the horse; for the nearer you sit to his back, the better seat you have. If it does so, it is plain the pommel must rise enough to secure the withers from pressure; therefore a horse, whose withers are higher than common, requires a high pommel. If, to avoid this, you make the saddle straight, the inconvenience spoken of follows; you sit too much above the horse's back, nor can the saddle form a proper seat. There should be no ridge from the button at the side of the pommel, to the back part of the saddle. That line also should be a little concave for your thighs to lie at ease. In short, a saddle ought to be, as nearly as possible, as if cut cut of the horse. When you want your horse to move forward, raise his head a little, and touch him gently with your whip; or else press the calves of your legs against his sides. If he does not move fast enough, press them with more force, and so till the spur just touches him. By this practice he will, if he has any spirit, move upon the least pressure of the leg. Never spur him by a kick; but, if it be necessary to spur him briskly, keep your heels close to his sides, and slacken their force as he becomes obedient. When your horse attempts to be vicious, take each rein separate, one in each hand, and, advancing your arms forward, hold him very short. In this case it is common for the rider to pull him hard, with his arms low. But the horse, thus having his head low too, has it more in his power to throw out his heels: whereas, if his head be raised very high, and his nose thrown out a little, he can neither rise before nor behind; because he can give himself neither of those motions, without having his head at liberty. A plank, placed in equilibrio, cannot rise at one end unless it sinks at the other. If your horse is headstrong, pull not with one Almost every one has observed, that wha horse feels himself pulled with the brik, n when he is going gently, he often mistakes wi. was designed to stop him, as a direction to b on the bit, and go faster. Keep your b head high, that he may raise his neck and cơ, play a little with the rein, and move the San his mouth, that he may not press on it me constant and continued manner; be not a of raising his head too high; he will natta, be too ready to bring it down, and tire your an with its weight, on the least abatement of b mettle. When you feel him heavy, stop and make him go back a few paces: thus y break by degrees his propensity to press ca ta bridle. Many are pleased with a round neck, and a head drawn in towards his breast; but this is mistake. Let your horse carry his head brda, in, provided he carries it high, and his ne arching upwards: but if his neck bends des wards his figure is bad, his sight is too near as toes, he leans on the bridle, and you have to command over him. If he goes pressing lightly on the bridle, he is the more sure-footed, and goes pleasanter, as your wrist only may guide him. If he hangs down his head, and makes you support the weight of that and his neck with your arms bearing on his fore legs (which is called being on his shoulders), he will strike ha toes against the ground, and stumble. If your horse is heavy upon the bit, tie him every day for an hour or two, with his tail to the manget, and his head as high as you can make him hift it, by a rein on each post of the stall, tied to the rings of the snaffle-bit. Horse-breakers and grooms have a great pro pensity to bring a horse's head down, and seem to have no seat without a strong hold by the bridle. They know indeed that the head should yield to the reins, and the neck form an arch; but do not take the proper pains to make an arch upward. A temporary effect of attempting to raise the horse's head may perhaps be making him push out his nose. They will here tell you, that his head is too high already; whereas it is not the distance from the nose, but from the top of his head to the ground, which determines the head to be high or low. Besides, although the fault is said to be in the manner of carrying the |