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CHAPTER FIRST.-Sail from New York-Our Pilot leaves us-Land recedes from View--Sea-

Sickness-A Whale-Enter the Gulf Stream---Encounter a Gale-Enter the Tropic of Cancer

—“Land, ho!!--Caycos and Turk's Islands--St. Domingo-Cuba-Enter the Caribbean Sea-

Sporting-Sunday-Standing in for the Port of Chagres—Beautiful Scene--Drop Anchor, 9

CHAPTER SECOND. -Natives and "Bungoes'' -Crescent City arrives-We sail into the

mouth of the River, Prepare for a Fight-Fashions and Fortifications-An honest Alcalde-

Non-fulfillment of Contracts,


CHAPTER THIRD.-First Attempt at Boat building-Excitement on “Change"--A Launch

and Clearance - The Crew-A Mutiny--Quelled-Poor Accommodations-A Night in Anger-

An Anthem to the Sun-Nature in Full Dress,


CHAPTER FOURTH.-- Breakfast--Primitive Mode of Life--Meet the Orus--Matiny and Rain--

A Step backward-Encampment--A fortified and frightened Individual-Sporting-Mosquitos, 20

CHAPTER FIFTH.–First Rapid- An Unfortunate Individual-A Step Backward-Several

Individuals in a State of Excitement-Tin Pans not exactly the thing-A Breakfast Extin-
guished-Sporting-Monkey Amusements-A Flash in the Pan-Two Feet in our Provision
Basket-Poverty of the Inhabitants and their Dogs-Arrival at Gorgona,


CHAPTER SIXTH.-Customs and Dress of the Nobility-A Suspicious Individual-Journey to

Panama-A Night Procession-A wealthy Lady in " Bloomer"-An Agreeable Night Surprise

-"Hush" on Horse back--Captain Tyler shot-A Mountain Pass at Night-- Thunder Storm in

the Tropics,


CHAPTER SEVENTH.--Panama-Cathedral and Convents--Religious Ceremonies-Amal-


CHAPTER EIGHTI.-Bay of Panama-Islands-Soldiers--Arrival of $1,000,000 in Gold and

Silver-A Conducta " Bungoes” “ up" for California-Wall

Street Represented-Sail for

San Francisco--Chimborazo--Cross the Equator-A Calm-A Death at Sea,


CHAPTER NINTH.-Stand in for San Francisco-Indications of Land- The Coast-Enter

the "Golden Gate" --Inner Bay--San Francisco-Lumps of Gold--Notes of Enterprise--Sur-

rounding Scene-Gambling,


CHAPTER TENTH.-The "Hounds'--Villainy--Indignation Meeting--Vigilance Committee, 51

CHAPTER ELEVENTH.-Start for the Mineral Regions--Banks of the Sacramento River

Shot at--Gold rersus Mica-Sutterville--Primitive Mode of Life--Sacramento City-An In-

dividual who had "seen the Elephant,”


CHAPTER TWELFTH --Sutter's Fort-A Herd of Cattle—“Lassoing? --Rio de los Ameri-

canos-A Disappointed Hunter-A Californian Serenade-A Mule and his Rider-Parting
Company-Thirst+Serenades supported by Direct Taxation-Sierra Nevada,


CHAPTER THIRTEENTH.-Venison--First View of the Gold Regions-Surrounding Scenery

—“Mormon Bar-A Pocket--My Machine in Motion-Certainty of Success, First Dinner-

" Prospecting”-A Good - Lead"— Disappointed Miners-A New Companion-A Higher

Point on the River-Volcanoes-Snowy Mountain-Auburn-Lonely Encampment,

CHAPTER FOURTEENTH.-A Sea Captain as Cook--A Herd of Deer-Return to Mormon

Bar-Keeping House--Our Machine in Motion--$1,500 in One Hour-An Elopement-Wash

Day-Sporting-Prospecting-- Discovery of Gold-Excitement--Fatigue--The Cakes "hur-

ried up -Incentives to Exertion--Canalling a Bar,


CHAPTER FIFTEENTH.-Start for Sacramento City-The “Niagara Co."-Frederick

Jerome-A Love Chase-Heroine under a Blanket-Suspicious Boots--Part of a Lady's Hat

found - A Ball--Arrival at Sacramento City-Poor Accommodations-Return to the Interior

A Chase-A New York Merchant-Beals' Bar-Einbark in Trade A Mountaineer-Indian



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CHAPTER SIXTEENTH.-The Mormons-The attempted Murder of Gov. Boggs-Canalling

Mormon Bas--False Theories in reference to Gold Deposits-Intiuence of Amasa Lyman, “ the

Prophet"-Exciting Scene-Jim returns“A Monte Bank "Tapped "-Jim's Advent at Sacra-

mento City,


CHAPTER SEVENTEENTH -False Reports and their Influences—Daily Average-Abun-

dance of Gold--Original Deposit--"Coyotaing”-Sailors-Their Success and Noble Character.

istics--Theatrical Tendencies-Jack in the After-Piece--Miners on a “Spree"--The Wrong


CHAPTER EIGHTEENTH.- Arrivals-Preparation for the Rainy Season-New Discoveries

--Coloma--Gamblers versus Bayonets-" Hangtown'--Public Executions-Fashionable En-

tertainments-Wild Cattle-Dangerous Sporting-Murdered Indians—The Wrongs they

: 107

CHAPTER NINETEENTH.-Canalling operations-Unsuccessful Experiments-Coffee-

Mills and Gold Washers--Formation of Bars-Gold removed from the Mountains during the

Rainy Season--Snow on the Mountains, and its Dissolution-Rise and Fall of the River-

Stock Speculations-Quicksilver Machines-Separation of Gold and Quicksilver-Individual

Enterprise-Incentives to Exertion-Expenses,


CHAPTER TWENTIETH.--Commotion in the Political Elements--California a State-Sla-

very Prohibited--Political Campaign, and the Rainy Season-Speech of a Would-be-Governor

-Enthusiasm and Brandy-Election Districts–Ballot- Boxes and Umbrellas--Miners in a

Transition State-- Preparations for the Rainy Season-Primitive Habitations--Trade Improv.

ing-Advent of the Rainy Season--Its Terrific Etfects--Rapid Rise of the River-- Machines

destroyed--Arrivals-My Store and Bed-A Business Suit-Distressing Groans--The Bottle a

Consolation--Several Strange Specimens of Humanity cooking Breakfast--The Scurvy-A


CHAPTER TWENTY-FIRST.-Dangerous Navigation-A Trip over the Falls-A Night

from Home-Sailor Hospitality-Scarcity of Provisions-A Hazardous Alternative-A Way-

ward Boy-Preparations for leaving the Interior-Distribution of Effects-Our Traveling Suit

-Start for San Francisco-Farewell—Three Individuals under a Full Head of Steam --Arri-

val at the " Half-Way Tent"-- Poor Accommodations-A Morning Walk and Poor Breakfast

Wading Lagoons-Wild Geese-Arrival at the American River-Our Toilet, and entry into

Sacramento City,


CHAPTER TWENTY-SECOND.-A Dry Suit-Restaurants—Waiters and Champagne-

Two Individuals “ Tight”-A $10 Dinner-Monte Banks and Mud-Gambling and its Re-

sults-Growth of Sacramento City-Unparalleled Prosperity-A Revulsion and its Cause,

The Flood,


CHAPTER TWENTY-THIRD.-Sail for San Francisco-A Fleet-Mud-Prosperity-Ships

and Storehouses-Buoyant Seas--Shoals in Business Revulsion and Fire-Their Conse-

quences-Sail for Santa Barbara--The Town-Dexterous Feat by a Grizzly Bear-Fashions-

Sail for St. Lucas-Porpoises and Sea Fowls-Their Sports-Approach the town-Peculiar

Sky--Caverns in the Sea-Cactus Beautiful Sea Shells-Sail for Acapulco-Magnificent

Scenery-Volcanos and Cascades--Volcanos at Night-Eternal Snow,


CHAPTER TWENTY-FOURTH.- Acapulco- The Tree of Love-Bathing and Females--A

Californian in a Tight Place-Earthquakes-Sail for Realejo-Volcano Viejo-Its Devastating

Eruption-Realejo and Harbor-A Cart and its Passengers-A Wall-street Financier fleeced-

Chinandega--118 beautiful Arbors--Bathing-Preparing Tortillos-Leon-Its magnificence

and desolation-Don Pedro Vaca and Family,


CTIAPTER TWENTY-FIFTH.-A Problem in Mathematics worked ont with a Cane-Pueblo

Nueva-Cultivating the Acquaintance of a Horse-Looking for the Rider-An “Old Sale"

stuck in the Mud--Uncomfortable Night's Rest-Nagarotes--Lake Leon and the surrounding

Volcanos--Matares-Delightful Country--Managua--Don Jose Maria Rivas--Nindaree--

Ruins of a Volcano- A Long Individnal in Spurs--A Dilemma-One of my Horse's Legs in

motion-A Boy in a Musical Mood-Entry into Massaya-Bloomerism,


CHAPTER TWENTY-SIXTH.--Massaya-The Carnival-Female Labors--Gourds--Maid-

ens consigned to a Volcano-A Donkey " non est':-Ox rersus Donkey--Same Medicine pre-

scribed-Lake Nicaragua-Grenada-A" Priest" in a Convent-"Our" Horse-A Group of

Islands-Cross the Lake-Mr. Derbyshire's Plantation-Breakfast--Bullocks stepping on

Board-Sail for San Carlos-Magnificent Scene--A Hymn of Thanks--A Mountain City-

Gold Mines--Arrival at San Carlos-Custom House Regulations repudiated,

CHAPTER TWENTY-SEVENTH.--Passage down the San Juan River--Castilian Rapids-

The "Director''-- Arrival at San Juan-Boarded by a Posse of Negroes-- British Protectorate-

Philanthropy of Great Britain-Her Magnanimous and Disinterested Conduct towards the

Nations of the Earth-Nicaragna graciously remembered-A Hunt for a Sovereign-A Full-

Grown King Discovered-His Diplomacy-Invincibility- Amusements and Coronation-His

First Pair of Pantaloons-Hail "King of the Mosquito Coast"!!!-All hail, Jamaca I.!!!

“Ilear! hear !!!"

CHAPTER TWENTY-EIGHTH.-Sail for Home--Pass the Golden Gate"-Sad Condition

of the Passengers-Graves at the Base of the Snowy Mountains-Land Recedes-Luxuries on



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Board—A Death and Burial-Another Death-Whales and Porpoises versus Serpents of Fire-

Thunder Storm-Death of Dr. Reed-Three Dead Bodies found on Board- The Scurvy-Five

of the Passengers Insane-Evils of the Credit System-A Cultivated Mind deranged--Memory

lost-Its Cause--The Victim upon the Verge of Death--Harpooning Porpoises--Exciting Sport, 169

CHAPTER TWENTY-NINTH.-Cloud and Clipperton Islands-Whales, Sharks, Porpoises,

and Dolphins-A Shark captured_Shark Steak— Caudle Lecture"-Death of Samuel B.

Lewis-A Calm-Foot Races by the Ship's Furniture-Passenger Peculiarities--Short of Pro-

visions-" 'Bout Ship’--First of January-Its Luxuries at Sea-A Tame Sea Fowl-A Pas-

senger Dying-A Shark-A delightful Evening Scene- A Death-Burial at Sea by Candle

Light-A Turtle navigating the Ocean-His suspicious conduct-A written Protest against the

Captain--Cocus Island-Capturing “ Boobies,?"


CHAPTER THIRTIETH.--Intense Heat-Human Nature as exhibited by the Passengers,

Danger, not apprehended-A Tattler-A “Dutch Justice'-"Long Tom Coffin”-A Quaker

Ha-An Individual running Wild--His Oaths, Depredations, Musical Accomplishments,

Showman Propensities, and Pugilistic Developments** Blubber,'' Fuckskin, and * The Last

Ran of Shad'--A capsized Whale Boat- Thrilling Sensation--Harpoon used-A Shark-

"Land ho!-Gulf of Panama-South American Coast—"Sail ho!':-Dolphin for Dinner

A Whale-A Terrific Gale-Our Sails and Spars carried away,


CHAPTER THIRTY-FIRST.-Bay of Panama-Its Beauties- Tropical Fruits--The City

in sight-Excitement on Board-Appearance of the City-Her Ruins-Preparations to Drop

Anchor—" Stand by!! _Let go the Anchor!"-Farewell to the Sick-A Perilous Ride on the

Back of an Individual--On Shore-First Dinner-Nothing left-An Individual feeling com-

fortable-Panama Americanized- A Moonlight Scene viewed from a Brass - Fifty-Six"-A

Dilapidated Convent as seen at Night-Church Bells—Burning the Dead-Exposure of the

Desecrated Remains-Sickening and Disgusting Sight-Infants cast into Pits-The Rescue

of their Souls requiring a Gigantic Effort on the part of the Church--A Catacomb--- Eternal

Light"-Ignorance of the Mass-Peerless Characteristics,


CHAPTER THIRTY-SECOND.-A Non-Fandango-Marriage Engagement broken-Start
for Gorgona-Our Extreme Modesty-Sagacity of the Mule--Sleep on my Trunk-A Dream-
An Alligator with a Moustache-Infernal Regions-Demons-An Individual with Long Ears,

and a Mule in Boots-Falling out of Bed-Funeral Procession-Gorgona--Siart for Chagres-

Our Bungo Full-Spontaneous Combustion, almost—" Poco Tiempo :-Lizards for Dinner-

The Hostess—Gatun-Music of the Ocean-Arrival,


CHAPTER THIRTY-THIRD.-Chagres, its Growth-Getting on board the Empire City-

Magnificent Steamer-Gold Dust on board-Steamers Alabama, Falcon, Cherokee, and Sev-

ern-My friend Clark arrives on board - Preparations for Starting-Our Steamer makes her

First Leap-** Adios"--Caribbean Sea---Heavy Sea on-Jamaica--Port Royal--Kingston-

"Steady!"- Beautiful Scene-Orange Groves-People flocking to the Shore-Drop Anchor

The Town-General Santa Anna's Residence—"Coaling up"--Parrot Pedler in a Dilemma, 198

CHAPTER THIRTY-FOURTH-Our Wheels revolve--The Natives of the Island Extinct-

The Wrongs they have suffered— The Island once a Paradise-San Domingo, her Mountains

Caba-A Shower Bath Gratis-Sail ho !!!--Caycos Island and Passage--Turtle for Dinner-

A Sermon-Gallant Conduct of our Steamer-We ship a Sea-A Spanish Vessel in Distress-

Our Tiller Chains give way-A Knife and Fork in search of Mince Pies-Gulf Stream-Wa-

ter-Spouts—Lighi Ship’-Sandy Hook--Anxiety-Sight of New York--Feelings and Condi-

tion of the Passengers - A Sad Fate--Aground- A new Pilot--- Again under weigh-Near the

Dock-Death-Man Overboard- Make Fast-At Home-One Word to those about to embark, 201

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Chapter First.



DEAR READER :—If you have visited California, you will find nothing in these pages to interest you; if you have not, they may serve to kill an idle hour. On the 27th of January, 1849, having previously engaged passage, I had my baggage taken on

I board the bark “Marietta,” lying at Pier No. 4, East River, preparatory to sailing for Chagres, en route to California. It was 9, A.M. A large concourse of friends and spectators had collected on the pier to witness our departure, and after two hours of confusion and excitement, we let go our hawser-and, as we swung around into the stream, received the last adieus of our friends on shore. We were taken in tow by a steam-tug, and were soon under way, our bowsprit pointing seaward. We occupied our time, while running down the bay, in writing notes to our friends, our pilot having kindly volunteered to deliver them. We passed Forts Hamilton and Diamond at 1, P.M., and at three had made Sandy Hook. Our pilot's boat, which had been laying off, came along side to receive him; we gave our last thoughts into his charge, and bade him adieu.

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