of the head-gear, and the refixing of it more securely in its proper place.

Approaching Tintagel, we had to descend an exceedingly steep and rugged piece of road-so steep, indeed, that the descent greatly alarmed the invalid, and prevented her enjoying, as otherwise she would have enjoyed, the enchanting and romantic scenery of the glen, opening with ragged, rocky jaws from the sea in the distance, not far away.

At Tintagel are several hotels, to the principal of which, the "Wharncliffe Arms," we were taken. Lord Wharncliffe is the chief proprietor, and owner of the old castle. We ordered luncheon for half-past three, and went down the hill to the little cove, where there is a pretty cascade, and where a cave extends through the castle-rock from this to the other cove on the southern or south-western side of the rock. Returning a little way to a cottage by the roadside, we obtained the keys by which access to the ruins can be acquired. There are steep and rude steps, hewn out of the native rock, which we had to climb with care. We ascended to the barrier, unlocked the door, entered the enclosure, and roamed over the rocky promontory, first to seaward, and then returning on the other side. Of the old castle, which stood upon a peninsular mass of rough and lofty rock, there are but few remains. Part of the fabric was reared upon another high rock on the land side, a chasm and road. way to the water being between. The two heights were formerly united by a lofty bridge, of which not a fragment now remains. We went leisurely round the shelving brink of the whole peninsula, admiring the scenery of both sea and land, with the dash of the waves among the rocks below, from some small cavities of which the rebounding spray spouted out like the curved streams or jets from a strong fountain.

The descent of the rough stone stairs was awkward enough, and not free from danger. One of our party slipped, fell, and was much shook, and might easily have slid under the slender rail fixed as a guard, and have gone over the cliff to the jagged rocks below. We all were much alarmed; however, the hurt was not serious, and by taking all possible care we made good our descent. We then went down again to the cove, to look at the cavern that extends the whole width of the neck of the peninsula. The tide was coming in, and the waves came careering through the cavern from the south-west, whilst those behind us were advancing upon us. The scene was most romantic. We were compelled to retreat; but we remained outside to observe the progress of the tide until the waters from the tunnel and those towards it met, and mingled, and all became one flood.

Tintagel Castle was built at a very early period of British history. For centuries it was a royal residence; and among the royal births within its walls was that of the renowned and popular King Arthur, who kept his court and had his celebrated "Round Table " here. To this day it is called "King Arthur's Castle" by the people living in its

neighbourhood. A large amount of legendary lore has gathered around it, and some of Britain's greatest poets have drawn inspiration from it.

We did not reach our hotel until a quarter-past four, being threequarters of an hour after the time we had proposed for our luncheon. We partook of some good roast beef and potatoes, with bread, Dublin stout, and ginger beer, &c., and then resumed our places in the carriage.

The hour was now too late for us to see anything more to advantage; but he who was the leading spirit of the party thought we might yet see the scenery of the coast at Boscastle, four miles eastwards: so as the moon was nearly at the full, we concluded to go thither, as we should not have to travel afterwards in the dark.

On leaving Tintagel we noticed a mound to our right, having upon it a tall pole surmounted by a wind-pointer. Our driver could not tell us its use; but an aged man whom he accosted, informed us that it was the place where the writ was first read when a representative of the ancient borough in the British Parliament had to be elected. He remembered the proceedings in his boyhood. The Mayor read the writ; three of the inhabitants usually holding that office in turn. On the opposite side of the road to this memento of the pocket-borough period, is a decent-looking house, built like the rest, of the stone of the country, which was the Mayor's residence. We passed it at the distance of a few yards further I said to our informant, "Those were jolly days, weren't they?" "Oh yes," said he; "plenty of gin and rum: they were gala days." "Aye, and pieces of gold and bank notes, I suppose?" He only grinned a smile in reply.

on.

This is one of the ancient boroughs which the Reform Bill of 1832 disfranchised, not a day too soon, after the great Duke of Wellington had declared that no reform of the representation was needed; that the Constitution could not be mended, and that there should be no reform. He was then Premier of England; but from the moment of that utterance he fell from political ascendancy, like an exhausted rocket falling from heaven to earth.

We drove to near the church at Boscastle, where three of us alighted to walk over the cliff near the sea, leaving the other in the carriage, unable to take much exercise after the fall and fright at Tintagel Castle. We found the walk very rough, steep and tiring; and, though the scenery was romantic, it did not, at near sunset, compensate us after all that we had previously seen. We had, in fact, exhausted our capacity for enjoyment. Whoever would enjoy the whole of the scenery of this neighbourhood, should take a walking tour, if able; if not, a couple of nights should be spent at one of the hotels, and two or three days in explorations, to the extent of physical ability and power of endurance.

We had to return by the light of the moon all the way to Bodmin. The air became so cold as to punish us, though we were well wrapped up. Our horses were old and tired. Our driver was more bent upon con

serving their comfort than our convenience. We met a great number of vehicles of one kind or other returning from Bodmin market. When we at last reached our hotel in that town it was half-past nine o'clock. We were glad of a warm room, a good fire, and a hot cup of tea, with bread and Cornish cream; and then to get to bed.

Sunday, October 13th.-A splendid day. Public service did not begin at any place of worship here until eleven o'clock, at which hour we went to the Wesleyan Chapel. There was a good congregation. A plain preacher discoursed on John iii. 16; commenting on the love of God as manifested in four particulars indicated in the text: The unworthiness of its objects; the greatness of His gift (His Son); the end for which the gift was bestowed (that they might "not perish, but have everlasting life"); and, the simplicity of the condition on which the benefit was bestowed (believing). The preacher concluded with an application of the comprehensive word, "Whosoever." He read only the first six verses of the fifth chapter of Jeremiah as his Lesson, and occupied not more, I think, than five minutes in prayer. The delivery of the sermon took exactly three-quarters of an hour. His style was familiar, and sometimes colloquial; and his aim was to instruct and edify his hearers. There was nothing new in what he said; but there was originality in his manner of saying it, combined with an orthodox discussion of his text. I could not concur with him in one remark that he made, to the effect that we estimate the degree of love which a person bears to us by the value of what he gives us. I don't think so; for some cannot express their love by gifts, or by costly gifts; but, however small the value of a gift, we prize it in proportion to our own love to the giver. Nevertheless, we may estimate God's love to us by the preciousness of the gift which He bestowed for the purpose of effecting our salvation.

After leaving the chapel we turned up a road a little beyond, for the sake of a walk and a prospect, not knowing whither it might lead us. We were gratified, however, by coming to a granite obelisk, which a gentleman whom we met there told us was one hundred and fortyfour feet high; and it had a wide and massive base. It is upon the loftiest site in the neighbourhood, commanding an extensive view in every direction, bounded by lofty hills, and some loftier mountains. An inscription informs the reader that it was erected to the memory of Walter Raleigh Gilbert, Lieutenant-General in the Bengal Army in the campaigns of 1803 and 1804, under the command of Lord Lake. In 1849, at Rawul Pindee, 13,000 men and forty-one guns were surrendered to him. The Queen conferred upon him a Baronetcy. In front of the obelisk is a large turfed ring, embanked all round, on which wrestling matches were held in former times, that were attended by the nobility and gentry from the surrounding country for many miles. The custom, like other muscular barbarities, has died out, yielding up their domination and demoralisation to the power of an advancing evangelism and

civilisation. The enclosure and the outside common are now used as an exercise ground for soldiers.

Walking thence down a lane, we reached a cluster of substantial and respectable-looking buildings, which proved to be the barracks. Only about one hundred men were in occupation, and we found only one sentry on duty. We distributed a few tracts, spoke a few words on soul matters, and then returned to our hotel to dinner.

Having heard that the Vicar of Bodmin was an able preacher, we went at six o'clock to the parish church, where we found a large congregation; but we were sorry to find the service of a ritual type. The sermon was a good one, with the exception of its putting "Holy Baptism" in the place of conversion. The text was Luke xiv. 11. The grace of humility was well described, as were the means for its attainment; but the grand doctrinal defect, and the ritualistic style of the performance that was gone through as worship, grieved us. We came away more than ever in love with simplicity of worship, and hoping that it will never be chased out of Wesleyan Chapels by artificial refinement, artistic taste, and worldliness.

(To be continued.)

8

ON THE WAY TO NEW ZEALAND.

AFTER a pleasant trip down the channel, the Northumberland cast anchor off Plymouth. The green hills of Devon, spotted with lowing herds and bleating flocks, presented a rare picture, the like of which I never expect to see again. Here the tender met us, with about fifty passengers, and tons of splendid beef, mutton and pork; besides, living oxen, sheep, porkers, ducks, geese and fowls, numberless, from London. No fear! thought I; we are sure to have a good time of it.

Not a moment was lost. As soon as every passenger was on board, the anchor was weighed, and off we started to battle with wind and wave for nine successive weeks. The day wears on, the sun is getting low, the distant hills look grey, and the white cliffs of old Albion are fast fading from my vision; a deep sigh, then a last farewell to the dear old country which never did me harm, but supplied me with every needful blessing which our kindred dust can give !

By this time a peculiar epidemic seized one after another, and I thought it prudent to set my house in order for the new future, and to have all my travelling equipage made secure before we experienced the Atlantic roll. Presently a regular chime of deep groans and piercing cries to the stewards for water, brandy, or tea were heard, and one poor mortal implored the captain to return, and nearly everybody vowed that, were they only on terra firma once more, never should they be tempted to recross the ocean. We swiftly left the smooth waters behind ; the winds

howled ominously, the stormy billows dashed furiously against our sides, and we were in the thick of a fearful conflict with a relentless foe.

That night in the Bay of Biscay will never be forgotten by those who had never been on the ocean before. All lights were extinguished, and the creaking and straining of the timbers, the monotonous thud of the screw, the tramp, tramp, of the watch, and an occasional downpour of water into our saloon, effectually banished sleep from all.

At every lurch and roll, boxes, chairs, books and garments were sent flying in all directions. One distracted passenger was up before the dawn, and waded through the saloon to the cabin of his friends, to implore them to get up and pray, for the vessel was surely sinking. Then he appealed to my common sense, to know if I did not feel her sinking lower and lower. The matter was too serious for trifling. I told him to trust in Jesus; and then, come life or death, all would be well. Solemn indeed were the thoughts that engaged my attention on that dark and stormy night in the Bay of Biscay. We passed the spot where the London, with her living freight, went down. The harrowing details I have heard from one who escaped the terrible calamity! He described the vessel, denuded of her glory, tossing about, a helpless log on the surging waters. The courageous captain cheered all hands to pump and bale out the water, but all to no purpose; the water gained, and presently he cried, "Now, my boys, say your prayers; there is no hope!" Parents embraced their children, many fainted with fear, while some, frantic with terror, threw themselves into their yawning grave. One brave spirit was there who did not fear to die. Mr. Draper, a Wesleyan Minister, calm and fearless, moved, with heaven opening to his vision, to quell the dreadful apprehensions of many, and implored saint and sinner, during their few last precious moments, to fix their eyes upon Jesus, the Lamb of God, which taketh away the sins of the world. So died that faithful ambassador of Jesus; and only three remain to repeat his last short sermon.

Said my

Many incidents were related to me: only one I shall name. informant: "Gold watches and chains, rings and trinkets were cast off and crushed under foot." How worthless in the face of death are the most precious things of earth! One man, who might have escaped, thought he would secure a few golden treasures first; but, while griping gold, the vessel dipped, and he lost his last chance of life through his burning thirst for gold. W. BOWRON.

Temperance.

MODERATE DRINKING. I CONFESS to a growing sense of the importance of urging total abstinence. I fear we have allowed a

generation to grow up who are not too well educated in our principles, or who have got educated on one side of the case, or who are not up to the