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96

TEMERITY AND DANGEROUS

We shuddered at the bare thought of what the catastrophe might be-but seeing a sufficient number of the natives collected, to render any assistance practicable, we waited the event, in silent agitation; not wishing to be exposed to the possibility of witnessing with our eyes, what might be too horrid to relate. In a few moments we had the happiness to perceive, from the general movement and appearance of his companions, that the attempt at rescue had been successful; and, shortly after, pale as deathtrembling like an aspen leaf-and covered with a cold sweat, he came and laid the old Leghorn at my feet!

The hat was not worth a moment of anxiety, much less the exposure undergone; and, while I rewarded the intrepidity of the young man, I felt disposed to reprove the daring rashness that led to the exhibition of it. None but the kindest and most disinterested motives induced the attempt-a principal one, doubtless, being that of seeing me under the necessity of resorting to a turban of silk handkerchiefs, to shield my head from a noonday sun-and though alarming in its possible consequences, the motive merited commendation and grateful acknowledgment.

The remainder of the day was almost necessarily, from the exhaustion of the morning, given to lounging and repose. As the darkness of the night closed around us, however, we took a station in sight of the crater, and, wrapped in our cloaks, sat in the fresh wind on the precipice for an hour or more, catching occasionally through the smoke, exhibitions of great

FEAT OF AN ISLANDER.

97

beauty and sublimity. But there were none to prevent a feeling of disappointed expectation, on my part, in comparison with the high gratification before derived from the same object: and I returned to our lodge with my companions, thinking that I must remain indebted to my first visit, for the sublimest impressions ever made on my mind and feelings, by a work of nature.

In this, however, I was mistaken. After some hours of sound sleep, I awoke; and perceiving the smoke and clouds over the volcano to be splendidly illuminated, hastened with a glass to a point of observation. A very sensible change had taken place in the liveliness of the seats of fire—in the vividness of the flashings of light--and in the sharpness and force of the sounds from various parts. I had been seated about ten minutes, fixing the field of the telescope on one and another of the cones, and on the lakes and rivers of bright lava, with great delight, when a sudden hissing and mingling of confused sounds, accompanied by a brilliant glare of flames almost directly beneath me, attracted my attention, and led me to direct the glass to the spot. In doing this, I was presented with a spectacle, which, even imagination itself can scarce rival.

The power of the glass was such as to bring the scene, seemingly, within touching distance; and to make me involuntarily recoil, from the apparent proximity to which I was brought by it. A lake, a half mile or more in circumference-and probably but just unclosed-was raging in all the tumult of a tempest at sea. At first, the agitation was perpendi

98

SUBLIME NIGHT SCENE.

cular-precisely that of a boiling cauldron-tossing up masses of the red-hot matter, in a bubbling action, fiften and twenty feet, with a rapidity of motion, equal to that of the most heated boiler. Then came a long, regular motion from the south, heaving before it a fiery surf, whose billows rose, and crested, and broke, in sheets and spray of fire, like heavy billows sweeping over a reef to the shore! The effect was almost too fearful to be gazed on; and, for a moment-in forgetfulness of the distance and safety of my location-as billow after billow rose higher and higher and seemed ready to dash over me, with an exclamation of horror, I dropped the glass and closed my eyes upon the sight.

I would have run for my fellow-travellers, but feared, that before they could be roused and would reach the spot, the aspect of the scene might be entirely altered. This indeed would have been the case; for, in less than fifteen minutes, the agitation had entirely ceased; and the surface soon became less bright and fiery than that of many other spots. I waited a long time, hoping to see it renewed, but in vain: and then returned to my couch under an excitement of varied emotion, admiration, awe, and deep humility, before the majesty and power of the Almighty in his works, never before experienced; and repaid a hundred fold, by the scene, for all the fatigue and exposure of the journey.

In the nearness and distinctness of the view, and in the clear perception of the form, character, and power of the action, it far surpassed any thing beheld on the nights I was there with Lord Byron

PEDESTRIANS IN A STORM.

99

though the general exhibitions, at that period, were far more beautiful, and less obscured by smoke, than during this visit.

Early on Thursday morning, our encampment was in the bustle of preparation for a return to the bay and breakfast was finished, and our long procession formed, by half past six o'clock. The weather did not promise much in our favor. The clouds were low and scudding-every thing wore rather a gloomy aspect and we had scarce accomplished three miles, before it began to rain; and in a short time, we found ourselves in a perfect storm. There was no alternative, however, but as rapid a march as possible. With stiffened and swollen limbs and feet, shoes very much the worse for service already performed, stores nearly expended, a driving rain in our faces, and a walk of twenty miles to accomplish before we could reach a shelter, we did not feel much disposed to be facetious; and formed rather a silent and wo-begone procession, compared with the buoyancy, with which we had hurried over the same ground, two days before.

Each one seemed to think, that the sooner he brought his own precious body under cover, the better; and we made short work, to the residence of Kinai, the petty chieftain of Ora. We were there by 12 o'clock; and found his establishment tenfold more welcome than before. All of us were drenched with rain, and in a state greatly to relish the luxury of a large fire, and a change of clothes, which our portmanteaus still fortunately afforded. We should have remained here all night, had there been no rain;

100

ARRIVAL AT THE BAY.

and therefore, the storm instead of being an annoyance, rather added to the cheerfulness of our spirits, when screened from its power.

noon.

We were off early again in the morning; and after a very fatiguing walk, from the wetness of the path, and the excessively bad state in which we found the road through the wood, reached Maaro's about An express had been sent ahead, with information of our approach, and a request for a boat to be in waiting for us—so that we were safely on board the Vincennes in time for a dinner, for which we had long felt well-set appetites. Thus, dear Hyou have the outline of a second excursion to the habitation of PELE.

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LETTER V.

CASCADE OF THE RAINBOW.

U. S. Ship Vincennes, Byron's Bay,
October 10th, 1829.

WE were to have sailed for Oahu, at 4 o'clock this morning; but before our anchors were up, the land breeze died away, and it became necessary to drop them again. All hands were kept on board till after dinner, in the hope that we might still be able to get out of the harbor: but then, there being little prospect of this for the day, Captain Finch allowed a party to go on shore, to be recalled in case of a change

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