RAMBLE ALONG THE WAIRUKU.

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of wind, by the firing of a gun, and the hoisting of a flag at the foremast head.

I did not regret the detention. There is one object worthy of notice, in the vicinity of the bay, which I had not previously an opportunity of visiting—a waterfall in the Wairuku, two or three miles above its mouth, called by the natives, "ke Wai Anue nue," "the Cascade of the Rainbow," from the beautiful exhibition of that phenomenon, on the spray created by it, whenever the sun is unshaded.

Mr. Goodrich had dined with us; and became the guide to this spot of a party, consisting of Lieutenant Stribling, Midshipmen Irving, Smith, Rowan, Maury, Taylor, Anthony, and myself. We landed at the mouth of the Wairuku, on the wild rocks forming its precipitous banks. This place has been a favorite resort of our gentlemen; and the untiring feats of the islanders, in throwing themselves from some of the highest of the adjoining cliffs-thirty, forty, and fifty feet-into the basins below, and in gliding down the falls above the watering-place, at the seeming hazard of being dashed to death, have daily afforded them great

amusement.

The path to the curiosity we intended visiting, led us along the top of the high banks and precipices edging the ravine, through which the Wairuku--by a gradually descending and winding course--rumbles and foams over its rocky bed, from the mountains fifteen or twenty miles inland, to the bay. A bright and beautiful afternoon, after a clouded and dull morning, added to the unexpected pleasure of another ramble over these verdant and truly charming VOL. II. 10

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CIRCUMSTANCES OF

shores, and the gratifying thought of leaving nothing of interest in the immediate neighborhood unseen, imparted great vivacity to our company. I scarce know when I have more enjoyed the freshness of the land, the beauty of grass and flower, the twittering of the birds, and the babblings of the mountain stream, with varied other sources of delight both to the eye and to the ear, connected with the landscape around, than on this occasion.

When a mile on our way, we heard the pouring of a waterfall; and soon came in sight of one, extending like a mill-dam, in an unbroken ledge across the stream. It is some sixteen or twenty feet in height, and very similar in its general character, to one or two of the most admired sections of the range of cascades, forming the falls of the Canada creek, at Trenton in the state of New York.

In many places the bed of the river is deep-apparently unfathomable; and at such parts especially, the embankments are bold and abrupt-forty, sixty, and a hundred feet high-and generally perpendicular. One of the loftiest and most precipitous, just below the cascade to which we were going, was regarded by us with particular interest, as designating the scene of one of those tragic casualties, which, unhappily, have thrown a melancholy, though perhaps not unprofitable association, over two or three of the most celebrated resorts, of a similar kind, in our own country.

Not long since, a young female, with some of her companions, strolled up the banks of the river, to gather flowers for the wreaths worn as orna

A FATAL CASUALTY.

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ments of the head and neck. On reaching this spot, a splendid cluster of the crimson blossoms of the ohia leihua-a species of eugenia-caught her eye, on the branch of a tree hanging over the precipice. Poising herself against a limb which she thought secure, she stretched her hand after the flower; when-in the act of seizing it-her support suddenly gave way, and she was plunged to instant death, in the whirling eddies of the gulf below! The young tree, flourishing gaily in the splendor of its dark green foliage and rich blossoms, still marks the fatal locality; and, as long as it remains, will doubtless recall to the islanders, the doom of the youthful victim of vanity.

The principal object of our ramble surpassed, in novelty and beauty, every anticipation. It is decidedly superior, in the variety of its points of interest, to any other of the kind I have ever seen. It is also strikingly unique. The projection of water is one hundred and ten feet in height; and the offset, causing it, in the view had of it from below, strictly a natural bridge, spanning the basin, into which the water is poured, in one broad arch, resting on either side upon massive abutments of basaltic rock. The arch, however, instead of being open entirely through, is the entrance of a deep recess or cavern, into the darkness and gloom of which the sight can scarce pene

trate.

The basin beneath- -a perfect circle of some hundred yards diameter is as placid as a lake, except where the stream plunges into it from above, and completely walled in, save at a single narrow outlet,

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DESCRIPTION OF THE CASCADE

by precipices of rock a hundred and fifty feet or more high, richly covered with moss, fern, and shrubbery. An insulated, pyramidal peak, at the base of which we stood, rises directly opposite to the cascade; its formation, like that of the arch, being almost precisely that of the Giant's Causeway--possessing the same distinctive characteristics in form, and in regularity of arrangement.

There was something so secluded in the location, so wild in the outline, so rich and beautiful in the foliage and clothing of the cliffs, and in the mantling of their summits, so imposing in the rushing of the stream-as it poured itself in a silvered mass, directly, as it were, from the blue bosom of the sky, and then plunged, in equal splendor, into the depths below-that we were irresistibly charmed with the whole scene; and greatly regretted, that we should not have an opportunity of revisiting it for a day, in addition to the single hour we could now remain.

There is another waterfall in the Wairuku, still farther inland, which, Mr. Goodrich thinks, cannot be less than three hundred feet in height. Indeed, the numerous streams furrowing this section of Hawaii, from the mountains to the shore, are filled with them; and the whole may appropriately be styled "the region of cascades."

We returned to the bay, by a different path, from that by which we went up. It led us directly to a range of three old craters, in the rear of the mission house, and half a mile from it. The highest and largest is that next the bay; and, when viewed from the water, partially conceals the others. Its trun

AND ADJOINING SCENERY.

105

cated summit, a half mile in circumference, rises three or four hundred feet above the adjoining ground; and is now, in every part, perfectly covered with turf. The sides of the rims next the sea, are in all of thein the lowest; and show plainly, that when in action, they disgorged themselves in that direction. Mr. Goodrich has encircled the largest, with a broad, deep ditch; and converted it into a pasturage for his cattle, and for the horses of some of the chiefs, which have been sent to Hido for keeping.

The tops of the craters command fine views of the surrounding country; especially of the bay, in its entire outline-from the blue and peaceful waters of which, the Vincennes was now seen to rise, loftily and beautifully, with her long pennant and broad banner gleaming brightly, in the setting sun.

LETTER VI.

THE HEREDITARY AND LAST PRIESTESS OF PELE.

U. S. Ship Vincennes, Byron's Bay,

October 12th, 1829.

On our return from the cascade of the Rainbow, Mr. Stribling and myself called at the mission house, and were, unexpectedly, gratified by an interview with the hereditary and last PRIESTESS OF PELE.

In speaking of the volcano, Mr. Goodrich incidentally remarked, that this individual was now residing in the immediate neighborhood; and, at our