THE HEATHENISM OF THE COUNTRY. 111

the utter change which had been accomplished, in the whole character of the people. So punctilious were the inhabitants, in their regard for the sabbath, that the seamen sought in vain to purchase any thing whatever. Not even a watermelon or a banana could be obtained, except as a gift of hospitality. No rude crowd gathered round, as they sauntered from place to place. The men treated them with civility when they came to their houses; but the women, universally, with such distance, by withdrawing from the places where they were, and by seeking security in the bosoms of their families, from any familiarity that might have been offered, that no one, so far as I can learn, has it in his power to report, that he met with a single instance of licentiousness at Byron's Bay.

The force of this evidence of reformation, will be best understood by those, who have known what the character of the intercourse of shipping with its inhabitants, as well as those of every other part of the Sandwich Islands-even within a few years-has been; and, by such, it will be acknowledged as one, which the most sanguine believers in the success of the mission, never expected to find, so early as the year 1829.

Along the whole coast, no noisy drum of heathenish carousal, nor rude song of obscenity is now heard -but in their place, the hum of the crowded school, the voice of thanksgiving and prayer, and, not unfrequently, the chanting of the morning and the evening hymn!

YESTERDAY morning at four o'clock, we weighed anchor in Byron's Bay, and, after being gently fanned from the harbor by a land-breeze, took the trade-wind, and with all sail set, bore away for Oahu, some two hundred miles distant.

We made the eastern end of Maui, sometime before dark; while the higher parts of Mounakea were still distinctly in sight, and—from their loftiness and the rich, deep blue of their shades-seemingly still near. Most of our gentlemen have felt disposed to question the estimate, that has generally been made, of the loftiness of this mountain; but, as we left it yesterday, the more distant we became from it, the more evident it was to all, that, whether 18,000 feet or not above the level of the sea, it must be, and is, immensely high.

Just now we are favored with a beautiful moon; and the officer of the mid-watch informed me this morning, that the view of the windward side of Maui was so distinct and fine, for two or three hours before daylight, that he thought seriously of calling me on deck to enjoy it. I went up at six o'clock. We were then far past the channel separating it from Morokai, and were rapidly approaching that between

this latter island and Oahu. At seven o'clock, when off the north end of Morokai, we descried one of the headlands of Oahu in the neighborhood of Diamond Hill, rising dimly, like a conical islet, from the water.

Our approach after this was very rapid; and, in the course of a couple of hours, the whole of the eastern side came in view. As we drew in with the land, so as to distinguish the objects on shore, we were all greatly disappointed in its appearance-more so, no doubt, from having so recently left the luxuriance and verdure of Hido. Instead of the freshness and beauty of aspect exhibited, when first seen by us in 1823, it looked as if seared with fire; and in place of green hills and rich vallies, every part, except the very tops of the mountains, was of a dead ash color-and seemingly just swept, by a siroc of the desert. The sight quite dispirited me--I had been told at Hido, that, both at Maui and Oahu, there had been the longest drought known for many years— but, I was not prepared, for such a general and deforming evidence of it.

We reached Diamond Point before noon; and in passing it, as the groves and wide spreading plantations of Waititi, and the vallies and mountains behind them, came upon the eye-followed by the long plain of Honolulu-the port itself adjoining—and the distant country beyond, to the range of mountains far in the west-the same marks of dearth were seen stamped on the whole coast; and so different was the entire face of the country, in this respect, from every former appearance, that I could scarce believe it, the rich and beautiful Oahu, which all viVOL. II. 11

114

ARRIVAL AND LANDING.

1

sitors have considered the most pleasant and fertile, and been accustomed to call the garden, of the islands of the group.

We dropped anchor at twelve o'clock, in a range with three or four ships in the roads, just as Adams, the pilot, boarded us; and were, at the same time, about announcing our arrival by a salute, when informed by him, that the commander of the fort and all the chiefs were some miles in the country; and that it could not be answered immediately. It was, therefore, postponed, till arrangements on the subject, should be made with the proper authorities.

As soon as a boat could be lowered, Lieutenant Dornin and myself were on our way to the shore-he, to apprise the American consul of Captain Finch's arrival, and I, to meet the embraces of our friends. We were two miles off; and, before reaching the entrance of the harbor, saw a boat approaching, in which I recognised Mr. Jones, the consul. Mr. Dornin having a packet for him, we lay on our oars and spoke her. Mr. French, an American merchant, and Mr. Charlton, His Britannic Majesty's consul, were also in the boat. After an interchange of civilities, and the delivery of the package, we resumed our course, and entered the harbor, filled with ships-whalers, merchantmen, &c., and the native craft-and exhibiting every appearance of a busy and thriving port. Several stone quays are now built, at different places, along that, which was only a sandbeach, when we left. We landed at one of these, opposite the American consulate; and immediately directed our way towards the mission-house.

IMPROVEMENTS IN HONOLULU.

115

There are very considerable changes in the appearance of the town near the water; and very great improvements. The coral platform, along the walls of the fort and adjoining point, which, on our arrival in 1823, was the court end of the metropolis, is now converted to a more appropriate use--that of a dock-yard and kind of depot for naval stores. At least, so I judged, from seeing one or two small vessels on the stocks there, and many others undergoing repairs--a large, two story, store-hourse of stone, &c. &c. The neat wooden building erected at the same place, by the regent Kaahumanu, and occupied, as you recollect, by Lord Byron, during his visit, has been removed into the town, on the level ground, some distance from the water, near Mr. Jones', and fitted with green blinds, a flagstaff, and look-out, stands a conspicuous object, both from the water and on shore, as the "Blonde Hotel," owned by Governor Boki. Besides this, there are many other well-built, European looking structures. Among them a storehouse and office of Mr. Charlton, near the water, at the corner of the fort next the town--and a very large and convenient establishment, consisting of warehouse, shop, counting room, and other apartments, belonging to Mr. French. Indeed every appearance indicates an advance in the importance and business of the place.

The arrival of ships seems, now, so much an every day occurrence, as scarce to attract attention, except among the gentlemen in business; and when we landed, the name and character of the Vincennes were not yet generally known on shore.