16

SKETCH OF PAPEETE.

entrance by a narrow ship channel-with a small islet based upon it, protects it so fully from the swell of the sea, that it is, at all times, as smooth as a lake. The panorama, from the anchorage, is rich and lovely. A spacious and elevated white chapel presents a conspicuous and pleasing object in the centre of the view inland. On one side of this, within a neat inclosure planted with shrubbery, stands the cottage of the resident missionary; and on the other, corresponding to it, the parish school-house: from both of which the habitations of the natives--some in the primitive and some in the modern style of building-stretch in half embowered perspective along the curvature of the beach, to the cocoanut points, jutting on either hand, at a distance of half a mile or more, in heavy groves towards the reef. Clumps of the orange and lemon tree-of the hibiscus and pandanus, with rich plantations of the bread-fruit, cocoanut, and broad-leafed banana, and here and there a single tree of the lofty and wide spreading vi―spondias dulcis-fill up the remaining parts of the foreground; while lofty and abrupt hills, overtopped by bold and verdant mountains, complete the sketch interior.

Our party was welcomed on the beach, by Mr. Marenhaut, a Dutch gentleman temporarily at Tahiti, and by Captain Brock, late commander of an English vessel wrecked on the eastern side of the island-both of whom had visited the Vincennes the first day of her arrival.

Learning from them,

that the Rev. Mr. Pritchard, the missionary at this

MR. AND MRS. PRITCHARD.

17

station, was quite ill, we accompanied them to their cottage, before calling at the mission house.

At twelve o'clock, we paid our respects to Mr. and Mrs. Pritchard; and were delighted with the neatness, taste, and beauty of their humble dwelling. Mr. Pritchard, a well educated and intelligent man, though much indisposed, received us with great cordiality and kindness; and in Mrs. Pritchard, we were pleased to meet, in this happy and honorable exile, a refined and lovely woman. Their little parlor though furnished with a plainness and simplicity appropriate to the situation and character of the occupants-wore an aspect of refinement and cultivation that bespoke a familiarity with more polished scenes than those in which they are now found. Two fine, healthful, and neatly dressed children, beside their mother on a sofa, added greatly to the charm of a home scene, so welcome to us, after the exhibitions of heathenism with which we had been conversant at Nukuhiva. An hour passed rapidly away under such circumstances; when we took leave, to pass over the bay to the islet in front of the harbor, where we had made arrangements to partake a repast, furnished from stores brought with us from the Vincennes.

This is a delightful little spot; a few rods only in circumference, but covered with groves, in miniature, of almost every variety of growth found on the mainland. Beneath the thick shade of these, fanned by a refreshing sea breeze, we enjoyed our pic-nic till it became time to return to the ship, as we intended calling on the way at a point two miles above, VOL. II, 3

18.

PLANTATION OF MR. BICKNELL.

occupied by Mr. Bicknell, an English planter, and at the missionary station, under the superintendence of the Rev. Mr. Nott, in sight of Matavai.

The habitation of Mr. Bicknell is a respectable, new frame building-weather boarded at the sides and end with a roof of thatch in the native style-the wooden part being neatly painted in cream color, with doors, Venetian blinds, and a covered veranda in green. Within, the arrangement, finish, and furniture, correspond with the neatness, and even elegance, for this part of the world, of the exterior: while horses and mules, herds of cattle and flocks of goats in the adjoining enclosures—a sugar mill and boilers, and a warehouse filled with beautifully grained sugar, molasses, and rum-testify to the resources, and promising circumstances of the propri

etor.

On landing, in front of the establishment, we were received at the gate, and very kindly welcomed by Mr. Bicknell, introduced to Mrs. Bicknell, and welcomed to the hospitality of his house.

From this point, a part of our number walked along the beach to the residence of Mr. Nott. It was quite dark before we reached his grounds, and we called with the intention of stopping a moment only; but the kindness and hospitality of himself and wife obliged us to remain to a cup of tea; and it was late in the evening, before, much gratified with our visit, we rejoined our barge, and rowed in safety beneath a lovely sky, the remaining distance to the Vincennes.

On Thursday, I made a second visit to Papeeté, with Lieutenants Magruder and Sullivan, and Mid

TURNPIKE AT TAHITI.

19

shipmen Irving, Maury, Taylor, and Anthony. We spent the day much in the manner of the last; but in returning, young Anthony and myself took a turnpike, which has been constructed almost entirely around the island-a distance of near a hundred miles

-as far as Mr. Nott's, at Pare. This road is a fine and praiseworthy work for such a people-the labor principally of convicts, proved guilty of various breaches of the laws. It is a broad, gravel way, extending, for the most part, in a direct line from point to point along the coast, smoothly and well finished, and provided with narrow bridges of plank over the water courses and streamlets, running from the mountains to the sea. Thickly embowered with luxuriant groves of various trees-skirted, here and there, with the humble but comfortable habitations of the islanders-opening occasionally upon a bright glade or extensive meadow land, with fine views of the mountains on one side, and the ocean on the other, it is, in many places, beautiful as a drive in the pleasure grounds of an American mansion, or the park of a gentleman in England.

The distance we travelled over it at this time, was about three miles; and we were treated with great civility and kindness by all whose habitations we passed, and by those met on our way. Within about a mile of Mr. Nott's, a side road leads to the point occupied by the residences of the royal chieftains; and we turned into it, for the purpose of visiting their establishment.

Pomaré III., only surviving son of Pomaré II., having died in his childhood two years since, while

20

ROYAL RESIDENCE AND

pursuing his education at the South Sea Academy, on the neighboring island of Eimeo or Morea, as the natives more frequently call it, was succeeded in the supreme authority of Tahiti, Eimeo, Tabuae-manu, or Sir George Sanders' Island-which three constitute the Georgian cluster-by an only sister, under the style of Pomaré Vahine I. of Tahiti, or the Feinale Pomaré I. of Tahiti. She is now about eighteen, and has been married some years to the eldest son of the prince, or head chief of Tahaa, one of the Society Islands, a hundred miles or more northwest of Tahiti and Eimeo.

Tamatoa, king of Raiatea, the principal island of that group is the maternal grandfather of the young queen, and she with her husband, mother, and an aunt-both daughters of the king of Raiatea, and associated in a regency during the minority of the queen-is at present on a visit there. We of course did not expect to find any person of much distinction; and were received by an inferior chief and his wife, left in charge of the establishment during the absence of the party.

These two are a respectable couple of middle age; and occupy a large, airy, and well kept house, standing near the sea side. A Sandwich Island woman is residing with them at present-the wife of an Hawaiian, sent to Tahiti by Governor Boki, of Oahu, as supercargo of the brig Ainoa, in a voyage from which she has just returned to the Sandwich Islands. The supercargo has remained, to dispose of the goods; and is, at present, with the queen's party at the Society Islands, while his wife keeps a shop