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SCENERY OF THE VALLEY AND

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ter-sharing no little in the animation of his narrative-while clustered round, on horseback, were forty or fifty chosen friends and companions, with every appearance, in the dress and manners of the whole, of no contemptible degree of civilization, and even refinement. With this group in your eye for a foreground, dear H—, fill up the picture in the wild glen with thousands of a savage race in all the fury of a deadly conflict-foe struggling in nakedness with foe, while barbarous menaces and hideous shouts, amidst the brandishment and hurling of spears and war clubs, add to the terrors of the sight. And, when the piece is thus sketched, would you imagine, that the figures of the foreground and those of the filling up are people of the same race?-of the same age?—and almost of the same quarter of a century? Would you believe the civilized and Christian brother and sister-the eldest scarce sixteen-to be the son and the daughter of the most fearful of the leaders of the savage horde?

such is the fact; and such the strength of contrast, which the changes of little more than thirty years here present.

At this spot, the beauty and magnificence of the mountain scenery of the valley becomes striking ; but, for its characteristic features, and for a description of the sublime spectacle exhibited at the Pari or precipice itself, I must again say to you-See Stewart's "Residence in the Sandwich Islands.”

Less than two miles from the battle ground, brought us, by a fine stretch of turnpike, down a gentle hill, to a grove of acacia, surrounding the tem

ENCAMPMENT OF THE GOVERNOR.

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porary abode of Boki-a rural and refreshing spot, on a slight elevation near the road side, beneath the shade of some beautiful trees, and within hearing of the rumbling of numerous mountain torrents, and the dashing of a distant cascade. The governor designs to build a country house at this place; but the present establishment is merely an encampment in booths, for himself and household, while he is superintending the construction of the road. The principal building, a little cottage or rather tent of poles, scarce twelve feet square, thatched with the green and shining leaves of the dracena, stands on a terrace of sward, some feet above the level of the ground in front. It is chiefly intended as a shelter in sleeping; the terrace itself, in the shade of the grove, presenting a more inviting place for all other purposes. This, just strewn with fresh fern leaves, and spread with mats, was the reception room to which Madam Boki, in a handsome dress, and head tastefully crowned with flowers, gave us a most cordial welcome, followed by a presentation of boquets. Every thing around was admirably suited to refresh and delight us; and two or three hours past rapidly after our ride, in lounging and in conversation, while we were served with fruit and wine.

Captain Finch, Mr. Stribling, the princess, three or four of her train, and myself, then rode to the Pari, two miles farther up the glen; and after enjoying with great admiration the magnificence of its scenery, returned to a dinner which we had been apprised was in preparation. This was spread in china and glass, in the centre of the green booth described, on a

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ENTERTAINMENT AND

mat upon the ground; and when summoned to partake of it, each was left to his choice, between the attitude of a Turk and a Roman, during the meal. The regent, princess, and king, with his private secretary Halileo, were the only persons besides ourselves and hosts, admitted to the entertainment. It consisted of a dish of baked fish, at the head, before the governor; a pig at the foot, carved by the secretary; a plate of chickens on one side in the middle, and a brace of wild fowl opposite, with four round dishes at the corners, two containing a mixture of pork and taro tops cooked together, and two, potatoes and taro as vegetables; while a large sallad dish, filled with delightful water-cresses from the springs around, occupied the centre--the beverage being the finest mountain water, with Madeira, claret, and muscadine wines. All the cooking was in the native style-in an oven of heated stones; and each article was spread on its respective dish, in the inner coat of the leaves in which it had been baked.

We greatly relished a repast so well prepared, and so neatly served. After the meats were removed, Madam Boki drew the casters and sallad bowl near her, as I at first supposed, to give us a specimen of her tact in sallad dressing; but, on seeing a servant approach with a parcel handsomely done up in green leaves, dripping with water, and observing a smile of archness playing on the features of her ladyship as she received it from him, I began to suspect it was only in preparation for some bonne bouche, peculiarly epicurian in its character. Such it proved to be; for on carefully untying it, while her eye bright

COURSE OF LIVE SHRIMP.

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ened more and more with pleasantry, she suddenly scattered the contents-a quantity of live shrimp, as pure and transparent as could be, and as sprightly as crickets-over the cresses, and dashing the cruet of vinegar upon the whole, caught up a half dozen of the delicate creatures in the leaves of the sallad, and tossed them, with a laugh, into her mouth, by way of encouragement to us to join in the course. The captain is too courteous a gentleman to stop short of any civility due to the lady of the house; and considering this a kind of challenge, went through the movement of taking a similar quantity in his fingers, and in raising it to his mouth, whether with the intention of following the example farther or not I cannot say, but-in ruse or not-I saw one, at least, of the nimble fry, hop fairly down his throat.

Our return, towards night, to the town, was as delightful as the ride in the morning had been; and the day was pleasantly closed at the mission house, where the band had been ordered from the ship, for the serenade of an hour or two.

The dîner de champêtre of Governor Boki was followed, last night, by an entertainment by the king. The invitations to Captain Finch, and the officers in general, were in writing, and brought on board by the private secretary. Seven o'clock was the hour appointed, but it was past eight before all the company-consisting of the principal chiefs, most of the missionaries, both ladies and gentlemen, including the Rev. Mr. Whitney, and Mrs. Whitney, who arrived from Tauai a few days since, and as many of the officers of the Vincennes as could leave the

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ship at the same time-had assembled. The palace was well lighted, the company well dressed, and with the band from our ship playing at the entrance, the general effect was quite equal to that of the morning levee.

At nine o'clock we became seated at a supper-table, handsomely laid in China and glass for thirty-five or more, with dishes and covers of silver plate: the king occupied the head, and Madam Boki, as the matron of his household, the foot of the table; while Captain Finch was placed in the centre, on one side, between the princess and queen regent, with Governor Boki and Mr. Bingham, as interpreter, opposite. The princess returned the compliment of the captain, in wearing her feather cape at the examination, by exhibiting upon her neck on this occasion-in addition to a dress of white satin, richly embroidered with gold, and a lofty, becoming toque of crimson and white gauze, elegantly arranged and finished-an exquisitely wrought gold chain of the manufacture of Panama, which he had presented to her as a mark of private respect and friendship. To the king he had given, in the same manner, a large and handsomely-framed print of the Declaration of Independence, by Colonel Trumbull, which, I was pleased also to see, occupying a conspicuous place in the apartment.

The entertainment consisted of three courses: first, cold meats, ham and tongues sliced, with biscuit, and butter, &c.; second, coffee and tea, with different kinds of cake; third, fruits, melons, bananas, grapes, &c., with cider, and a variety of wines. In this last article, however, his majesty had suffered

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