26 PUBLIC WORSHIP AND The chapel is a large and neat building, one hundred and ten feet long, and forty broad; lofty, airy, and well finished in all its parts, and wholly of native workmanship. The number of worshippers amounted to about four hundred-the usual congregation at this place—including almost entirely the population of the vicinity. The whole appearance of the people their attention and seeming devotion, during the exercises of reading the scriptures, singing, prayer, and preaching-was as markedly decorous as would be expected or seen, in America or England: and such as to make a deep impression on my own mind. A single glance around, was sufficient to convince the most sceptical observer of the success and benefit of missions to the heathen; for it could not be made, without meeting the plainest demonstration, that such can be rescued from all the rudeness and wildness of their original condition, can be brought to a state of cleanliness and modesty in their personal appearance, can be taught to read and to write-for many, besides the intelligent and familiar use of the scriptures and their hymn book, took notes in pencil of the sermon delivered-in a word, can be transformed into all that civilization and Christianity vouchsafes to man. After worship we perceived a large portion of the middle aged and elderly men, and many of the younger to remain in the chapel, while an equal proportion of the females repaired to the school-house. On inquiring the object of this, we learned that it was customary for the members of the church, and persons seriously disposed, to spend a half hour or OBSERVANCE OF THE SABBATH. 27 more after service, in conversation on the subject of the discourse of the missionary, and in prayer for a blessing upon its truth to themselves, and to all who heard it. Between the hours of public worship, I joined the mission family in an English service of singing, reading, and prayer, in Mr. Wilson's parlor. The greatest quietude reigned around; and the whole external observance of the day by the natives, in a suspension of all ordinary occupations and amusements, was such as to be worthy the imitation of older and more enlightened Christian nations. LETTER IV. VISIT TO EIMEO, AND ARRIVAL AT THE SOCIETY ISLANDS. Island of Raiatea, On the morning of the 26th ult., a party, of which I made one, sailed in two boats for the island of Eimeo, or Moorea, twelve or fifteen miles west of Tahiti. The Rev. Mr. Wilson kindly accompanied us in the excursion. On reaching the north end of the island, for which we steered on leaving Matavai, we entered within a reef skirting it at a distance of a quarter of a mile, and passing by the mouth of the bay of Paopao, or Cook's harbor-at present uninhabited-reached the missionary settlement at Papetoai, at the bay of Opunohu, or Talu, a few miles farther west, early in the afternoon. The scenery along the northern shore, is delightful --both bays lying cradled, like lakes, in the midst of mountains of the most picturesque wildness, and of the richest verdure. The whole surface of Eimeo is much more broken than that of Tahiti; and from whatever point viewed, its contour abounds in lofty pinnacles and shafts of wooded rock and mountain. We were received on the beach by the Rev. Mr. Simpson, and most hospitably entertained by himself and lady, and Mrs. Armitage, at their comfortable dwellings. Mr. Armitage was absent at Afareaitu, a station we afterward visited on the eastern side of the island. Papetoai does not differ materially from Matavai and Papeeté, in the evidences of civilization and piety it presents. The chapel is very superior, and more substantial than any other building yet erected in the South Seas, being of hewn coral, not dissimilar in its appearance to a light free-stone or marble. It is an octagon, sixty or seventy feet in diameter, well plastered and whitewashed within, and furnished with convenient seats constructed of the timber of the bread-fruit tree. The gallery, and a handsome pulpit, are of the same material. Early the next morning we left for Afareaitu, returning to the northeast point inside of the reef, and then coasting along the eastern shore, eight or ten miles, to a little islet marking the entrance of the harbor. Afareitu is a lovely spot, surrounded by magnificent and beautiful objects. The South Sea academy, chapel, and cottages of the natives-stretching in a long line of whiteness around the bay, at the water's edge, beneath mountains springing almost perpendicularly more than three thousand feet highpresent a delightful scene as you row in from the sea; and show what additional beauty the hand of art and civilization can scatter over the splendors of natural scenery. The Rev. Mr. Orsmond, principal of the academy, and Mr. Blossom--associated with him in the secular affairs of the institution and of the missionary stationgave us a most cordial and hospitable reception. We had the gratification also of meeting Mr. Armitage, who is preparing to remove his family from Papetoai to Afareaitu, and to establish a cotton manufactory at the latter place, after an unsuccessful experiment at the former. On this subject, however, and on others of a similar kind, as well as on the South Sea Academy, its design, success, &c., I must again refer to the "Polynesian Researches" of our friend Ellis, in which you will find every desirable information respecting them. During the afternoon of Thursday, we made a water party for the missionaries and children of the academy, and visited the islet on the reef in front of the settlement. It commands a beautiful view of bay and mountains; and I occupied the time we were upon it, principally in taking a sketch, to add to the collection already in my portfolio. Our kind friends furnished us with a repast before dawn on the morning of the 28th; and immediately VOL. II. 4 30 RETURN TO MATAVAI. after, bidding them farewell, with grateful feelings for the hospitality with which we had been entertained, we left the harbor, on our return to the ship, while the stars were yet twinkling in the sky. Early in the day, the trade wind set in so freshly that the channel between the islands became very rough; and we were glad to secure an entrance through the reef, twelve or fourteen miles to the leeward of Matavai. It was in the vicinity of the missionary station occupied by the Rev. Mr. Darling-of whose residence and printing establishment; chapel, and the habitations of the islanders in the vicinity, we had a fine, though distant sight. On gaining the harbor of Papeete, we landed, on the island at its mouth, to partake of some refreshment in the coolness of its groves. The necessity of looking to our provision-chest, however, was anticipated by the arrival of Mr. Pritchard in his boat from the shore, with one or two attendants bearing a tray of delicacies, politely furnished by Mrs. Pritchard, who, aware of the necessity we should be under of returning by Papeete, and of the probability of our arriving weary and exhausted, had in this manner kindly borne us in mind. On re-embarking we called at the mission-house to make our acknowledgments, and left in time only to reach the Vincennes, at a seasonable hour, in the evening. On the first sabbath we were at Matavai, Mr. Pritchard preached on board the Vincennes, and with the Rev. Mr. Crook, from a distant station on the southern side of the island, spent the day with us; and on the last, Mr. Pritchard, Mr. Wilson, Mr. |