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HISTORY OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS.

CHAPTER I.

Sandwich Islands-True Name-Situation-Num

ber and Extent-Harbors-General Appearance and Structure-Rain--Wind ward Sides-Leeward Sides Minerals-Salt Lake-Soil-Vegetable Productions Insects -Animals - Fishes-Climate-Winds-Storms-Diseases-Earthquakes Phenomena of Tides - Meteoric Showers of 1825-Water Spouts.

THAT important cluster of Islands, situated in the North Pacific Ocean, commonly known as the Sandwich Islands, were so named by Captain Cook, at the date of their discovery by him, in honor of his patron, the Earl of Sandwich, then first Lord of the Admiralty. Their legitimate appellation, and the one by which they still continue to be distinguished by the aboriginal inhabitants, is Hawaii nei pae aina,' a collective term, synonymous with these Hawaiian Islands.' This term is derived from the largest of the group, Hawaii, whence the reigning family originated, and is gradually taking the place of the former.

The central situation of the Hawaiian Islands in the vast North Pacific, is highly favorable to their commercial growth. Their extremes of latitude are from 18° 50′ to 22° 20′ north, and of longitude from 154° 53′ to 160° 15′ west from Greenwich.

This position is nearly equi-distant from Central America, Mexico, California, and the Northwest Coast on the one side, and the Russian dominions, Japan, China, and the Phillippine Islands, on the other. When a civilized and enterprising population shall have developed the resources of those countries, these

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Bird Island is a barren rock, 120 miles to the N. W. of Kauai. Three of the others are equally unimportant; Molokini, an extinct crater of but slight elevation, with one side open to the sea, lies midway between Maui and Kahoolawe; Lehua, a mile to westward of Niihau, has an elevation of 1000 feet, some slight vegetation, and an excellent spring of water; Kaula, seven miles S. W. from Niihau, is of less extent, and, like Bird Island, abounds with wild fowl.

The whole embrace a superficial area of about sixty-one hundred miles, of which Hawaii includes two thirds. But a small proportion of their coasts, compared with the Southern groups, is bounded by coral reefs. These are of limited extent, and extend but a short distance from the shore, forming a barrier, over which the sea rolls in sheets of foam.

There are few harbors, though numer- | fall in bright and pretty sheets.

Several

ous channels occur in the reefs, affording of these often unite, as at Kauai, and entrance into basins, capable of accom- form rivers of considerable depth and modating coasters. With the exception size. Palis, or precipices, in many of Honolulu, on the south side of Oahu, parts, present stupendous walls of rock, no really good harbor exists. At Ewa, from one thousand to three thousand ten miles to the west of Honolulu, there feet perpendicular elevation, directly is one with twelve feet at low water on fronting the sea, the surging of which the bar; the basin within is sufficiently forms large caverns into which the sea capacious to receive the entire commerce rushes with stunning effect. of the Pacific; but the adjoining land is barren and forbidding. At Koolau, on the north side of Oahu, there is another harbor, with however but nine feet water in the channel. The surrounding country is verdant, well watered, and the breeze directly from the ocean. By deepening these channels, should the commerce of the kingdom ever require it, fine sites for commercial towns would be formed. Hilo Bay, on the north of Hawaii, commonly known as Byron's Bay, affords excellent anchorage; shipping are protected by a projecting reef, and the holding ground is good, but the surf breaks heavily upon the beach, and not unfrequently renders landing difficult. At all of the principal towns, with these exceptions, the roadsteads are exposed; but such is the nature of the prevailing winds, that vessels can frequent them in perfect safety during nine or ten months of the year. With good ground tackle there is little to be feared at any season. No dangers to navigation exist in the vicinity of the islands, with the exception of a reef off the west coast of Kahoolawe. It is a little less than two miles from the shore, and with two fathoms of water on it at low tide. A few rocks, within a circumference of two hundred feet, comprise its whole extent.

The structure of the group is volcanic. On Hawaii is found the largest known active volcano, and several others of great size, partially or wholly quiescent. The mountains attain an elevation of fourteen thousand feet. They are of great extent and grandeur, and, throughout the group, present scenery of peculiar and beautiful character. To the north they slope somewhat precipitously to the sea, covered with a greensward at their base, and above with dense forests. Plains are broken by deep ravines, down whose steep sides cascades

To the windward, and on the highlands, there is abundance of rain, which keeps vegetation perennially verdant. The leeward portions, during most of the year, suffer from drought, and offer a cheerless aspect. Below the region of clouds, vast and rugged masses of broken lava spread themselves over the country. Plains frequently occur with a soil formed of ashes and cinders, which, easily set in motion by violent gusts of wind, sweep over the land, and are carried to sea in dense clouds. During the winter months, when the trades are partially interrupted, showers often occur. When much rain falls the plains become covered with a species of coarse grass, which affords tolerable pasturage for cattle. Extinct volcanoes are very common. They are of every age, size and shape; at places, crowning the summits of lofty hills and mountains; elsewhere rising precipitously from plains or projecting into the ocean, they form prominent landmarks for navigators. One of the most singular and well-known, is the promontory near Honolulu, called Leahi, better known as Diamond-Head, from an idea once current that precious stones were to be found there.

The minerals are few and simple, consisting of the usual variety of the lavas, from the most solid and granular to the light pumice-stone. Ledges of compact lime-stone, a good material for building, are found on several of the islands. These being elevated considerably above the sea, have caused much speculation as to how they were formed or arrived at their present situation. The most remarkable is at Kahuku, Oahu. No metals have been discovered. Four miles to the west of Honolulu, and within a mile of the ocean, is the famous salt lake of Alia-paakai, elevated only a few feet above the level of the sea. It is in the

heart of a crater, nearly oval in form, and about a mile in circumference. At certain seasons salt forms spontaneously and in the greatest abundance; at others but little is created, from its being overflowed by rains. Some have supposed it a mineral salt; but the general belief among the natives is, that it is formed by evaporation. The following facts favor the supposition. Its general depth is but eighteen inches; near the centre, a hole exists, five to six fathoms in circumference, which, as no bottom has been found to it, is supposed to connect with the ocean. Through this the lake is slightly affected by the tides, and at times it is crusted over with a stratum of salt sufficiently strong to bear a man's weight.

The soil of the islands is formed of decomposed volcanic rocks, sand, mud and ashes. To be made fertile it requires constant irrigation. Valleys which receive the debris and rains of the mountains, and for ages have been accumulating deposits of vegetable mould, are exceedingly rich and productive; but they are of limited extent. The soil generally is poor, better adapted for grazing than cultivation, though with labor and skill it can be made to produce good crops. Nature yields but little spontaneously and the inhabitants have always been obliged to exercise much industry and ingenuity in their farms. The principle article of food is the well known kalo (arum esculentum). Great labor is necessary in raising it successfully and it requires a year or more to arrive at maturity.

The banana, yam, sweet potato, breadfruit, cocoanut, arrowroot, sugar-cane, strawberry, raspberry, ohelo, (a berry,) ohia, (a juicy, red apple, but of poor flavor,) are indigenous and plentiful. Many varieties of esculent fruits and vegetables have been successfully introduced, among which are melons, the delicious chirimoya from Peru, limes, oranges, guavas, pine-apples, grapes, peaches, figs, citrons, and tamarinds. The vegetables of the temperate region have been acclimated to a considerable extent. The uplands of Maui produce excellent Irish' potatoes. Wheat of good quality thrives in the same region. An

oil used in painting is extracted from the nut of the kukui tree (aleurites triloba). Sandal wood, suitable for exportation, is mostly exhausted, though the young wood is abundant.

Coffee, cotton, indigo, tobacco, sugarcane, mulberry, cocoa and most of the tropical products can be successfully cultivated on the low grounds, while the uplands are suitable for the productions of more temperate regions.

Insects are few, though there are some of a destructive character. A species of caterpillar, the pelua, at certain seasons destroys vegetation to a great extent, eating even the grass to its very roots. A slug deposits its eggs in the cotton blossoms, which, when ripe, are pierced through by the young insects, and the staple entirely destroyed. Large spiders are very numerous and mischievous, weaving strong webs upon shrubs and young trees, in such quantities as to greatly injure them. A species of woodlouse, the ant-cow, is very annoying. A sooty crust, firm, hard and stiff, like strong paper, forms upon many varieties of trees and plants, covering the bark and even the leaves, giving them the singular appearance of being clothed in mourning. Rats destroy the sugarcane to a considerable extent annually. Though the Hawaiian agriculturalist escapes many of the evils incidental to other tropical climes, enough exist here to make his labors no sinecure. Noxious vermin, such as musquitoes, fleas, cockroaches, scorpions and centipedes, are a modern importation and have extensively increased. Serpents, frogs or toads have not as yet reached the islands. A small lizard is abundant.

The forests are usually very dense, broken by deep chasms, hidden ravines and deep, conical-shaped pits, which appear to have once been active craters. The trees are overgrown with masses of ferns and parasitical vines, thickly interlaced and spreading their shoots in all directions, which renders it a task of great difficulty to penetrate their recesses. There are but few birds to enliven these sylvan solitudes. Wild geese are found at Hawaii; snipe, plover and wild ducks on all the islands. A variety of the owl is very common; but nature, in

the ornithological as well as the entomo- | growth of timber and is frequented only logical tribe, has been chary of her gifts, by wood-cutters. The average temperand the traveler looks in vain for the ature of Waimea, Hawaii, situated in endless varieties which the more favored the interior, at an elevation of about intertropical countries afford. Dogs, four thousand feet, is nearly 64° Fahrenswine, rats and domestic fowls are indi- heit-48° being the lowest extreme. genous, and, beside the wild-fowl above This place affords an excellent retreat mentioned, were the only varieties of for those whose constitutions have beanimal food before the introduction of come enervated by too long a residence cattle.

Fish, of which there are a great variety, form one of the chief articles of diet. They consist chiefly of the albicore, bonita, flying-fish, shark, eel, and many species preserved in artificial ponds, which acquire a delicious flavor, and are highly prized. The best of these is the mullet. Edible shell-fish are also abundant, of which the pearl oyster, cuttle fish and prawn are the most palatable. Pearls are common, but of no great size or beauty. They formerly constituted a profitable branch of trade, and were monopolized by the king. The common oyster is not found.

The climate is salubrious, and possesses such remarkable evenness of temperature that the language has no word to express the general idea of weather. The tropical heat is mitigated by the trades, which blow over a wide expanse of ocean in the temperate zone. The shores on either side show but little difference in the results of the thermometer. Physiologists give a certain point of temperature as most conducive to health and longevity. The mean heat of these islands approaches near to it, and is highly favorable to the full development and perfection of animal economy.

nearer the coast. Rains are frequent at this altitude, but the dryness of the soil seldom leaves the ground damp for any length of time. At Mountain Retreat, back of Lahaina, Maui, an elevation of three thousand feet, the temperature varies from 40° to 75°; but such situations afford few comforts for the sick and their dampness renders them otherwise objectionable.

Localities can be selected on the seashore which possess advantages for invalids, particularly those affected with pulmonary complaints. Many individuals by change of residence, have prolonged their lives for years, and others who in the less favored regions of the north were perpetual sufferers, live with scarcely an admonition of their disease. Lahaina, Kailua, Ewa and Honolulu have all a good reputation in this respect. At the former, during ten years, the highest thermometrical elevation was 86°; the lowest 54°; an extreme difference of but 32°. During no day in this period was the range greater than 19°. June has the highest range-January the lowest. But little rain falls and for successive months the sun is rarely obscured by clouds.

The common range of the thermometer By visiting the interior and ascending at Honolulu is 12° per diem. The greatthe mountains, any desirable degree of est degree of heat during twelve years temperature can be attained. On the in the shade was 90°, and 53° for the highest mountains snow remains during coldest; the mean is about 75°. Kailua much of the year, and in exposed situ- and Ewa vary but little from the above. ations on Mauna Kea throughout the At Koloa, Kauai, the thermometer whole. Snow storms occur on the high-varies from 50° to 88°; at Waioli, from lands of Maui during the winter months. 55° to 90°, with much rain. A change On the upland region of Kauai, a uniform of wind affects the climate materially. elevation of four thousand feet, both During nine months of the year the snow and hail occasionally occur. The northeast trade blows with great regutemperature here is quite regular the larity and the temperature is very uniyear through, requiring warm garments form. Oahu and Kauai are the most and fires even in the month of July. influenced by it; Maui, which is larger, The district is cold and wet, and of little has in a few places to the leeward, invalue. A portion of it supports a heavy cluding Lahaina, the regular land and

sea breeze.

Hawaii, from its size and ment. The influenza occurs almost anheight of mountains, neutralizes its in- nually but is not often fatal unless added fluence, and enjoys an almost uninter- to other causes. The whooping-cough, rupted land and sea breeze. This occurs, a few years since, spread through the in some degree, even on its northeast whole population, but soon entirely spent coast where the trade is usually freshest. itself. Contagious diseases are scarcely The winds partake of the character of known, excepting those of a cutaneous the sea breeze in the day, and during nature, which very generally prevail the night are so modified by the influence owing to filthy habits and gross food. of the land, as to vary their course from The small-pox has raged in the southern off the shore, or become very light. groups, but has never reached here. Where the mountain ranges are broken Vaccination is very generally practised. by steep defiles, as at Kawaihae and other The croup sometimes occurs. Hoapilibays on the west side, the wind rushes wahine, a chief woman of high rank, through with great violence, gathering upwards of seventy years of age, died of strength as it descends until it passes off this disease in January, 1842. to sea in furious gusts. During the winter months the trades are interrupted, winds from the south and west often prevailing for several successive weeks; calms are also frequent and of long duration. The south wind brings rain and is usually loaded with a briny vapor injurious to vegetation. Its effects are equally unpleasant to the human system. Headaches, catarrhs, rheumatism, and kindred diseases, prevail during its continuance. Upon foreigners its influence is very obvious, causing a compression about the head and an enervation which indisposes to mental or physical exertion; the atmosphere becomes oppressive and at times feels like the heated air of a furnace. The miasma arising from the lagoons to the southeast of Honolulu is blown back upon the land, infecting the town with an odor which but for its rarity would be insupportable. The natives call it the sick wind,' and with propriety. It sometimes occurs with sufficient force to destroy their frail habitations and do much damage to plantations and forests. Much of the weather at this season is however of the most delightful description; the sky becomes cloudless, the atmosphere dry, clear and bracing, and the whole system feels the invigorating influence of the change. Nothing can exceed the soft brilliancy of the moonlight nights. Thunder-storms are rare and light in their nature. No hurricanes have been known.

Epidemic diseases are few and of a light character. The mumps have prevailed very generally, and in some cases terminated fatally through mismanage

Powerful volcanic eruptions, attended with disastrous effects, have occurred on Hawaii several times within the memory of the present generation. Some of the largest of the craters, such as those of Mauna Haleakala, (house of the sun,) on Maui, at an elevation of eleven thousand feet, have been quiescent from a period beyond the traditions of the inhabitants. Earthquakes are chiefly confined to the largest island; the shocks felt at Maui are slight. The immense craters with which the former island abounds operate as safety-valves, by which the pent gases, generated by the vast subterranean fires, escape. Without them, the thin crusts of lava which constitute the foundation of the island, would be rent asunder, and it would become a terrific waste. Shocks are indeed frequent, but without sufficient strength to be very destructive. Trees are thrown down, rocks split, and the scene of action otherwise affected. At Hilo, in November, 1838, during the space of eight days, from forty to fifty shocks occurred. Twelve distinct ones were counted in one night. For two days and nights the earth was in a state of continual agitation; the plants and flowers trembling like frightened animals. In some cases the motion was perpendicular, like that of a ship pitching, and attended by noises and sensations similar to those produced by heavy waves striking against her sides, and some degree of nausea was felt. In others the action was lateral, easy and undulating, unaccompanied by any sounds. In April, 1841, several more powerful shocks were experienced at the

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