which dashed along without paying much attention to any one, we were constantly exposed to the danger of being run over. Great numbers rode also on stud horses of a small size, with tails sweeping the ground; but a still greater number of both sexes, were carried about in a kind of sedan chair of a curious construction, and generally ornamented with gilding. The curtains were sometimes drawn aside for the purpose of peeping out. The men who were thus carried along were generally priests and nobles, as I judged by their ribbons and decorations; for it is not the custom in this country to lay aside any insig nia of distinction, to be used only on days of ceremony or parade. Nothing surprised me more than the number of persons I saw in the street with decorations of one kind or other; I could not but think that in becoming so common and being so frequently exhibited, they must cease to impart dignity or importance to the wearers. Contrasted with the habits and opinions of our country, where man is by nature a noble and dignified being, this idle and silly display produced in my mind the very reverse of respect. The town seemed to be crowded with inhabitants of every color and hue, but the proportion of those who with us would be called white, was by far the least considerable. The Portuguese are generally of a very dark complexion, but the number of negroes and of the mixed race was such, as to give a different cast in the general appearance of the population, from that of any town I have ever seen. We were continually meeting pairs of lazy lounging soldiers, who it seems are constantly walking in the streets with their bayonets, for the purpose of preventing disturbance; their in

solent and insulting deportment to the lower classes of people, gave the most certain indications of a despotic government. Where the common soldier thinks himself above the mechanic or artizan, and the officer occupies a rank distinct from, and above the people, civil liberty is scarcely more than a name. In the new part of the city the houses are better constructed, but the best have but an indifferent appearance when compared to those in our cities; they seem also to be constructed on a plan calculated to insure a jealous seclusion from every human eye. We visited the public gardens so particularly described in Macartney's embassy; but whether it was owing to the season, this being the period of frequent rains, or whether attributable to neglect, we found them in a very different state from what we had been led to expect. We saw but few people in them, and these not of the most prepossessing appearance. In the shrubs and trees of the garden, I saw but little to attract my attention, except the coffee plant which grows here in great perfection, and which was at this time loaded with berries. As to much of what I had seen thus far, I found that my residence in New Orleans, had made me acquainted with many objects which a citizen of our middle or northern states, who has never been abroad, would contemplate with wonder; and if possessed with an over share of vanity, would ascribe to his superior discernment, what was nothing more than a proof of his ignorance. On our return towards the quay, we stepped into the king's chapel where we were told mass had just been said for the princess Charlotte of England; the news of whose death had reached Rio sometime before our arrival. There was

a great profusion of ornaments and gilding through the chapel, and behind the altar a picture of the royal family, no way remarkable for design or execution. The priest who had been officiating, a man of gigantic stature, and exhibiting strong indications of having been well fed, brushed hastily past us towards the door, with long strides, in order to take a look at our frigate which was then firing a salute; he was careful however, although in great haste, and his mind occupied with the idea of powder and smoke, to bow his knee before a crucifix which he had to pass.

The day after our arrival we went by invitation of our minister, Mr. Sumpter, to dine at his house, situated in the direction of the sugar loaf, and at the distance of about three miles from our anchorage. We were rowed in the barge into a beautiful little sandy bay of a circular form, with a clear smooth regular beach, and bordered by very handsome country retreats, all built since the arrival of the king, since which time, improvements of every kind, are said to have advanced with prodigous rapidity. There is here a small level plain at the foot of the mountains, and similar to those of which I have spoken as being very numerous around this magnificent harbor, which in following its indents, is said to be nearly two hundred miles in circumference. We were received by Mr. Sumpter with the pleasure which is natural to suppose would be felt by him, on meeting his countrymen at so great a distance from the United States, while the satisfaction on our part was scarcely less. Mrs. Sumpter we were informed had retired to an elevated part of the mountain some twelve miles off, on account

of a sick child, in order to try the effect of the fresher and purer air of the more elevated region. The honors of the house were very gracefully performed by the daughter of the minister, a young lady of sixteen or seventeen years of age. Mr. Sumpter has a numerous and amiable family, who all speak the Portuguese, and the younger hardly any thing else. He has been six or seven years at this court, and is extremely anxious to return home. He speaks highly of the climate, and of the vast resources of the country; thinks favorably of the king, but expresses great dislike to the state of society, as well as disapprobation of the thousand vexations and abuses practised on the people in the name of the government. He said that there was a sincere wish on the part of the king to cultivate a good understanding and friendship with the people of the United States, and in this he was much more liberal than his courtiers. On the subject of the insurrectional movements, he seemed to think, that the spirit of revolt was by no means extensive through Brazil, and he gave no credit to the assertions that similar designs to those of Pernambuco, had been formed at St. Salvador and Rio. On the subject of the mission, probably mistaking its objects, he thought it premature. He professed to be well acquainted, with the state of things at Buenos Ayres, and expressed a very unfavorable opinion of the kind of spirit by which they were generally actuated. He appeared to think that selfish rivalry and false ambition, actuated a greater part of those who aspired to authority; there was hardly a major, he said, who did not think himself qualified to be supreme director! With respect to men at present in power,

Pueyrredon and others, he said they were the rational and moderate men of the country, who were aiming at something like a settled order of things, but that the people were of a restless and inconstant character, and fit subjects to be acted upon by turbulent demagogues. Upon the whole, his opinions as to the state of things in the country to which we were going, was rather unfavorable. He gave us to understand that a very considerable Spanish force from Peru had taken possession of Talcahuana in Chili, and that a second struggle would ensue between St. Martin and the much more powerful force, than that which he had subdued the year before. He gave us to understand, that the Portuguese were unable to make any progress in the subjugation of Artigas, while the war was carried on by them at great expense. Buenos Ayres seemed to be determined to maintain a neutral attitude as long as possible, on account of the important warfare she was carrying on with the Spaniards in Chili and Peru. He related to us a curious anecdote respecting some agents of Buenos Ayres, who had outwitted the court of Brazil, and he seemed to think, that a depth of diplomacy was displayed by them, hardly to be expected or admired in so young a state.*

* I have seen some of these anecdotes in our newspapers, but these are not to be believed merely because they are told. It is well to receive such stories with distrust, until we can ascertain their original source, and then we may judge of the degree of credit they are entitled to. Buenos Ayres had an agent at Rio at this time, of the name of Garcia, who I have understood held communications with the government. Some dexterity was no doubt necessary, and it is equally certain that no pains would be spared