134 ENTRANCE TO LIMA. tered and whitewashed, are arranged at regular intervals beneath the shade. They have the appearance, when not too closely inspected, of marble or Portland stone, and impart an air of taste and elegance making a pleasing impression, and intimating an approach to the abodes of refinement and luxury. When about midway in this avenue, the drive may be said to be fine. Behind you, all the dreariness and sterility of the road passed over, is cut off by the perspective of the trees, appearing as if they extended entirely to the bay, which, with the shipping in miniature, and the heights of St. Lorenzo in the distance, is still in reduced, but distinct view; while in front, the vista terminates in what appears a portal of light marble or freestone, becoming the entrance to a magnificent city. But this impression is but momentary: as you approach the gate, you find it to be only a rough plaster of mud, daubed with paint, in wretched imitation of marble; while a glimpse of the city wall and buildings adjoining is by no means calculated to check the downward tendency of the high imaginations you may have indulged. Lima is said to be the most corrupt city on the continent, so much so that along the whole coast, I am told, the name alone is a proverb of sin. The walks of the avenue, as we drove through the gate, exhibited some specimens of the morals to be expected within, by several intoxicated officers, and three Dominican friars in the garb of their order, in very familiar conversation with persons of rather equivocal, ASPECT OF THE CITY. 135 or perhaps I should say unequivocal appearance; several of whom, in gay attire, were lounging without protector or attendant on the sofas around. I scarce ever felt greater surprise than on entering the first street after passing the gate. Instead of "the splendid city," of which, from childhood, I had read with such admiration, I was tempted to think myself in Timbuctoo itself: and I could not avoid exclaiming, "If this be the city of the kings, how is the mighty fallen! or how have the credulous been deceived!" Mud houses of one low story, with large doors and grated windows, exposing filth and poverty to view, inhabited only by negroes and mulattoes, thronging in gaping and half naked crowds about the doors and corners, were alone in sight! By degrees, however, the appearance began to improve. The houses became more neat and lofty, till something like civilization and comfort, if not elegance, was to be seen. But, even in the best streets through which we passed, every thing wore a decayed and shabby appearance; while the covered verandas projecting from the second story, of clumsy architecture and dark colours, threw an air of gloom over the streets. After two or three turns in the distance of a half or three quarters of a mile, we drew up before an English hotel to which I had been directed, in a street near the Plaza or public square. Mr. Radcliffe, a son of the American consul, whom I had met on board the Guerriere, was politely in waiting to receive me. I accompanied him to the consulate, 136 RECENT REVOLUTION. to a cup of tea; and after an introduction to his father, have returned to my lodgings to scribble this account of my ride to this noted city. LETTER XVIII. AUDIENCE WITH GENERAL LA FUENTE', Recent Revolution.-General La Fuenté.-His Assumption of the Executive.-Political State.-The Palace.-Sala of Assassination.-Cabinet of La Fuenté.—Hall of Independence.— Costume of the Incas. Lima, June 24th, 1829. MR. M'Call, of the house of M'Call and Prevost, visited me early this morning. We had met at the dinner-table of Commodore Jones, on board the Brandywine; and he now kindly proffered his services in accompanying me with letters to various gentlemen in the city. After calling at the residences of Mr. Eldridge, of New York, and of Mr. Sholtz, a principal partner in an English house in the vicinity of the hotel, we were crossing the Plaza, to wait on Mr. Stanhope Prevost, a friend of my boyhood, when we met Commodore Thompson, Captain Sloat, and Mr. Armstrong, just arrived from Callao, also on their way to the establishment of Mr. Prevost. Commodore Thompson intended waiting on the authorities at the palace at one o'clock, and requested me to make one of his suite, to which I was happy to accede. A bloodless revolution, just achieved, has GENERAL LA FUENTE'. 137 rendered useless letters with which I was furnished to the late president, La Mar, and to Don Luna Pizarro, a prominent member of the former administration. Only on Saturday last, Pizarro, after having suffered arrest and imprisonment, was obliged to embark for Valparaiso, under sentence of banishment by the present executive; and so recently as Monday, a governmental placard was issued, announcing the flight, from the head-quarters of the army in Upper Peru, of General La Mar, the president, and his departure from Paita with a single aid-de-camp, for a foreign country. The individual now occupying the palace, as head of the republic, is General La Fuenté, an officer who has risen from the grade of cadet to the rank he now holds. He was a protégé of Bolivar when dictator of Peru, and received from him a colonel's commission, and was afterwards made prefect of the district of Arequipa. This office was retained by him till about eight months ago, when becoming an object of jealousy to the party in power, he was requested to resign the prefectorship, on the ground that his presence would be necessary, with the division of the army commanded by him, at the seat of war with Colombia, in Upper Peru; and to which, with his troops, he was ordered to repair. La Fuenté resigned the civil office at Arequipa, but disregarded the marching orders. In the meantime General Gamarra, Commander in chief under La Mar, the President, passed through Arequipa, after the reduction of Bolivia in the south, on his way to the head-quarters of La Mar, at Paita, in the 138 north; and it is believed that the revolution or usurpation which has just taken place was then concerted by the two generals. La Fuenté was advised by Gamarra not to obey the orders of the government by proceeding to Paita, but to wait a suitable opportunity of landing his troops at Callao and of making himself master of Lima, from which all the soldiers, except a small guard at the palace, had been withdrawn in the contest with Colombia, while Gamarra himself should take measures in the camp to secure the abdication and exile of La Mar. HIS ASSUMPTION OF THE EXECUTIVE. After the defeat of the Peruvians by Bolivar at Cuenca, La Fuenté received new and peremptory orders to proceed with his division to Paita; and this being thought the desired crisis for action, leaving Arequipa with sixteen hundred troops, he landed at Callao and encamped at Santa Magdalena, a village two or three miles from Lima, under pretext to the government in the city that the transports in which he had put to sea were unfit for a longer voyage. The vice-president, Salasar, jealous of this movement, summoned La Fuenté to the palace, and informing him that new transports would be in immediate readiness, ordered the embarkation of his troops for their destination without delay. The general then began removing the mask, by replying that his troops were fresh recruits, unprepared for service, while the Colombian army was composed of veterans with whom it was impossible for them to cope; that the war could not be maintained, and that there must be peace! adding, as he took his leave, that he should return to Santa Mag |