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54

DINNER ON BOARD THE GANGES.

for me a crown of righteousness, which the Lord, the righteous Judge, shall give me in that day!

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The whole party were very agreeable and intelligent. Sir Robert himself treated me with great kindness and attention; he is most amiable and unassuming, and I was happy to have an opportunity of correcting-evidently to his satisfaction-some mis-statements he had received from authority of some reputation, concerning the mission at the Sandwich Islands, and its influence upon the government and people there.

We remained on board till near 10 o'clock, enjoying the cool of the evening on a delightful sterngallery. From the time the cloth was removed, we were entertained by a full and noble band of music, whose swelling and harmonious strains nightly float far over the waters of the harbour. But for the lateness of the hour, I would describe to you the serenity and beauty of the bay at night—the gleaming of lights, like extensive illuminations, in every direction along its shore-the sparkling of fire-flies against the darkness of the mountains around, and the brilliancy of the sky above: but for the present, must bid you adieu.

THE PALACE.

55

LETTER VIII.

LEVEE AT THE PALACE.

The Palace. - State-rooms. - Portraits and Company. Lord
Strangford. — Dr. Walsh.—Arrival of the Emperor. — Pre-
sentation. The late Empress. - Prince and Princesses. —
Chamber of Deputies.

Praya do Flamengo, Rio de Janeiro,
April 6th, 1829.

SATURDAY the 4th inst. was the birth-day of the young Queen of Portugal, the eldest child of the emperor, at present in England. Besides a royal salute from all the fortresses and ships of war in the harbour, it was celebrated by a levee at the palace at one o'clock, and an illumination in the evening.

Mr. Tudor proposed and urged my presentation to the emperor. Commodore Thompson also desired it; and ascertaining that my gown and scarf, with suitable underdress, would constitute the usual costume of my profession at court, I determined to attend, and went on board the Guerriere in the morning to dress, and to join the commodore. At twelve o'clock, accompanied by Mr. Armstrong and myself, he left the ship in his gig-Captain Sloat of the St. Louis, and Captain Gallagher and Lieutenant Sands of the Vandalia, following in another boat.

The palace, as I have already mentioned, forms two sides of the public square fronting the mole. The rooms of state, and apartments for the private accommodation of the imperial family, form a range

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of two or three hundred feet running from the water to the farther side of the square. This part of the pile appears to be more modern, is of a different style of architecture, and in better repair, than that on the other side of the quadrangle, to which it is attached by a covered gallery crossing a street upon arches. It is two stories and a half high, with a narrow section in the middle, both in front on the water, and on the side towards the square, of three stories, surmounted by a pediment, the whole stuccoed and painted yellow. The windows are large and numerous, and furnished with balconies of iron gilt, and the roof flat.

The grand entrance is at the end towards the bay. Here the second story projects some twenty feet beyond the basement, and is supported by arches of brick, formed by eight pillars in front, and four at the sides; within which is a paved court, affording a lounge for the soldiers of the guard standing sentry, and a protection from the sun and weather to company in alighting.

In front of this, as we entered, stood a company of halberdiers, in party-coloured and fantastic livery with cocked hats and halberds. Many splendid equipages were already arriving, and a large mob had gathered round. A file of soldiers lined the passage, from the central arch, where etiquette required us to be uncovered, to the grand staircase leading to the state apartments above; and the staircase itself, at the foot of which the emperor's private band was stationed, we found closely lined with attendants of the household in full livery, till we reached a vesti

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bule on the landing, and entered a guard-room bristling with spears and battle-axes.

A long suite of rooms, overlooking the square, extends from this apartment the whole length of the building. One of these is styled the diplomatic saloon; being that in which the embassadors and their attachés, with foreigners to be presented, wait the readiness of the emperor to receive them: the whole range, however, is open for inspection and promenade.

The splendour of the interior is greater than I anticipated from the appearance of the edifice without; the whole exhibiting much of the richness becoming an imperial residence. The first room we entered was in yellow paper hangings, with carpet, chairs, sofas, &c., to correspond, and an abundance of heavy gilding in the mouldings and cornices. The second in blue, in a similar style. The third, the diplomatic saloon, or principal drawing room of the suite, in crimson and gold: the walls being hung with damask, in gilt compartments, and the whole furniture superb. The predominating colour in the fourth and fifth rooms was green, in the one of a dark, and the other a light shade, both in French velvet paper, with Brussels carpets. The sixth apartment, which communicates with the rooms of the household, is a picture gallery floored with cane. In addition to various articles of taste and luxury, every room was ornamented with the choicest natural flowers, in rich vases on the pier and centre tables.

Several windows in each overlook the public square on one side; and a large door, in the centre of the wall opposite, opens into a gallery surrounding a

58

PORTRAITS, AND COMPANY.

small quadrangle within the palace filled with shrubbery and statues, and ornamented with vases crowned with aloes and air plants. Some fine paintings, principally portraits of the Portuguese royal family, by distinguished masters, with historical pieces, and one or two in allegory, decorate the walls. Among the portraits is one of Catherine of Portugal, wife of Charles II., by Van Dyke, an admirable painting, and fresh as if finished but a month ago.

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Mr. Tudor was in readiness to receive us on our entrance, and most of the embassadors had arrived. Admiral Otway, and the Baron de Roussin, Admiral of the French fleet, with their suites, were already there; and my friend with stars and orders like the rest. Lord Strangford, wearing, in addition to various other insignia, one of the richest collars in his sovereign's gift, came in great splendour. His coach was drawn by four superb grays, preceded by two outriders, on spirited animals of the same colour. The Rev. Dr. Walsh, whose journey from Constantinople to England recently published has been read with such general interest and pleasure, was with him. He is chaplain to the embassy, and in his lordship's family. We were introduced at the opening of the Cortes, exchanged visits early afterwards, and now formed an additional acquaintance.

The intercourse, however, on such occasions, is generally too constrained and formal to be particularly interesting-much like that which takes place while a party is assembling in the drawing-room, before dinner is announced. After an introduction to most of the leading individuals assembled, and an

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