NATIONAL MUSEUM. 69 rich; not more so, however, than might be anticipated in this empire of precious stones and diamonds. In the cabinet of birds also, there is a magnificent display of plumage, presenting, in some of the native specimens, brilliancy of hues, in a beauty of contrast beyond the art of man to rival; and of which, as of the flowers of the field, it may truly be said, that "Solomon in all his glory was not arrayed like one of these." Among them is a fine collection of the Toucan, Ramphastos Tucanus, a Brazilian bird, the splendid yellow feathers of which, wrought into a cape, formed part of the decorations worn by the ancient caciques of the country; and which, as I have before mentioned, takes place of the ermine in the coronation robes of the emperor. The relics of former native splendour, pointed out to us as the dresses, ornaments, &c., &c., of the aboriginal chieftains, particularly attracted my attention. Several coronets of feathers and other decorations for the head are truly superb; and would not be thought deficient either in taste or richness, on the brow of Don Pedro himself. They exhibit a neatness and elegance surpassing every thing of the kind I have seen in the South Seas, and bear testimony to the advanced state of civilization and refinement in which the original possessors of the South American continent were found. I could not gaze on these primitive paraphernalia and badges of the regal state of the first monarchs of the soil, without sighing at a recollection of their wretched fate. Too much reason indeed had they to desecrate the creed of the Christian, and to 70 THE ABORIGINES OF SOUTH AMERICA. curse the white man's name; for to them they too early became associated only with unrivalled exhibitions of avarice, licentiousness, and cruelty. Not all the pages of fiction and tragedy present any thing so affecting to my mind as the history of the treatment and extermination of the natives of the West Indies and continental seaboard. Had the first visiters to these distant shores brought with them the purity, spirituality, and exalted benevolence of the religion they professed; and by the mildness and meekness of its spirit won the confidence, and secured the affections of the people to the word of God; O how different would have been the record of those days, and how glorious the scene, which might now have been witnessed, in the civilization, piety, and high attainment of populous kingdoms, where yet are savage wilds! But they came not with the spirit that breathes 66 peace on earth and good will to man," but with that of the god of this world, which seeketh only the things that are in its own; and in place of salvation and joy, desolation and death marked their way. Their standard, instead of the dove with the olive branch from heaven, should have been the fearful Boa of the regions they despoiled in a full display of his gigantic folds, sending forth pestilence with every breath, and gathering destruction around all within reach of his terrific power! A FUNERAL. 71 LETTER X. BOTAFOGO, ST. CHRISTOVAO, AND THE EPISCOPAL PALACE OF RIO. A Funeral.-Death of Infants.-Botafogo.-The Gloria Hill.— St. Christovao.-Protestant Burial Ground.-Episcopal Palace.--Bishop of Rio de Janeiro. Praya do Flamengo, at Rio de Janeiro, AFTER the visits described in the preceding letter, I went for an hour or two on board the Guerriere. It was dark when I left again for Mr. Tudor's, and I had an opportunity of observing the city at night. The only spectacle of interest I met was a splendid funeral in the Rua do Ouvidor. Attendants, bearing large flambeaux, preceded and flanked a long procession of ecclesiastics followed by a train of carriages. The corpse was carried in an open landau, covered with black and drawn by four horses in caparisons of the same, with black ostrich plumes on their heads. I followed the procession to a chapel on the palace square brilliantly illuminated, where mass for the dead was performed. The coffin, which was a straight box with a triangular lid, covered with black velvet and ornamented with gold lace, on being removed from the carriage to an elevated platform in the centre of the chancel, was laid entirely open, disclosing the body in full court dress, with chapeau, and sword, and several stars and decorations of rank. The indivi 72 DEATH OF INFANTS. dual was of high distinction, as I perceived many of the officers of state and principal noblemen of the empire present, besides numbers of persons in rich naval and military uniforms. There appeared to be little solemnity on the minds of a majority, much whispering and smiling with nods of recognition, and the whole service seemed to be viewed more as a matter of parade than a devotional rite. When children under seven years of age die, their bodies in full dress are exposed in procession through the streets; the cheeks being painted, the head crowned with artificial flowers, and the whole figure sometimes dressed in imitation of an angel, with expanded wings of tinsel and gauze. In the happy persuasion, that "With souls enlarged to angels' size," such are only translated to the blessedness of heaven, their death is not regarded as a just cause of sorrowing, but of joy; and visits of congratulation are paid, I am told, to the parents by their friends, and festivities of the gayest character take place, not even excepting music and dancing. For two successive days the rain poured in such torrents that we were kept entirely within doors, except a call on Mrs. B and Miss P, who have just removed to a mansion in the vicinity vacated by Lord Ponsonby, for one at Botafogo. Thursday, however, was a fine day, and Commodore Thompson sent his gig for Mr. Tudor to visit the Guerriere, where he was received under a salute of seventeen guns. On leaving for the shore again, we went on board the Ganges, and afterwards called on the admiral of the French fleet, the Baron de Roussin, of the Duquesne 74, a fine looking and polished man, of superior talent and much literary and scientific attainment. He was recently a member of the ministry at home, and in his visit to Rio is clothed, for a special object in relation to the French claims, with the double powers of diplomatist and naval commander. The cabins of the Duquesne are admirably fitted up: a splendid portrait of the baroness and one of her children, screened by a light curtain of silk, forms a conspicuous ornament in that furnished as a cabinet, presenting a silent testimony of conjugal affection, which I always delight to notice. On returning to Flamengo we met a small party at dinner, among whom were Mr. and Mrs. Band our friend Miss P——, and afterwards passed the evening with the Baron Martinez, the Dutch consul-general. The next morning, after a call on the gentlemen of the French legation in our neighbourhood, we extended our walk as far as Lord Ponsonby's, at Botafogo. This beautiful bay seemed more than ever to possess the features of a noble lake embosomed in magnificent scenery. A stranger, in gazing upon it from almost any point of view along its widely curving shores, would think it entirely landlocked, as much so as if a hundred miles from the sea. It is a favourite residence with foreigners, and many fine mansions skirt its borders, interspersed VOL. I. E |