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ill-contrived cocked hats, and all appeared desirous to distinguish their persons, by the wearing of some badge or uniform. There was no smile of welcome to us in their countenances; but rather repulsive half scowling glances. A number of them were priests dressed in loose gowns, and wearing hats as broad as parasols. In front of the palace there is a large open square, at the lower end of which is the king's chapel; on the right there is an immense unfinished pile intended as a monastery, but on the arrival of the king a stop was put to any further work on it, as he seemed to think that monks and nuns formed already a sufficient proportion of his subjects. In front of the palace there was a body of infantry constantly on duty; but their arms with the exception of those who stood centry, generally stacked; but every now and then the drum beats and they fall in. Towards the lower end of the palace a similar duty is performed by a troop of cavalry; but composed of young men of distinction, as I presumed from the richness of their uniform and general appearance; they were almost the only good looking men I saw at Rio; and several of them were uncommonly handsome. Below the landing there is a fountain of fresh water conveyed hither for the aqueduct, which is constantly surrounded by a crowd of noisy negroes waiting for their turn. I saw about twenty of these miserable wretches chained together by the neck, and each one carrying a bucket of water on his head: they relieved the bodily pain or suffering, by a kind of harsh noise not unlike that made by a flock of wild geese. I saw others hitched to carts or carrying burthens, and all screaming in the

same style, producing a general effect of which I can convey no idea.

A part of the square is taken up with some temporary works preparatory to the coronation or acclamaçaổ, which we understood was to take place in a few days; the ceremony it is said, has been thus long delayed principally on account of the expense. Rows of columns formed of boards covered with canvass, painted to resemble marble, an obelisk, triumphal arches of the same, and a Grecian temple supported on pillars of the like durable materials, were the most conspicuous among the preparations for the important event. These fine things were already going to decay, although it is probably not more than a few weeks since they were set up: I saw a part of a splendid entablature literally in rags.

Two American gentlemen who had been at this place some time, in the most friendly manner offered to become our guides. They first conducted us to a kind of boarding house, where together with some other foreigners they had procured lodgings; for there is no respectable inn or coffee house in the city. I can scarcely imagine how they contrive to dispense with what in our cities appear so necessary. After reposing ourselves here for a short time we proceeded to examine the city. Our walk was extremely unpleas-. ant, through narrow and dirty streets without side walks. The houses in general have a mean appearance, with projecting galleries on the second story, which approach so near, that two persons might almost shake hands across the street; probably the ancient Moorish taste. On account of the great number of old fashioned chaises, principally drawn by mules,

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which dashed along without paying much attention to any one, we were constantly exposed to the danger of being run over. Great numbers rode also on stud horses of a small size, with tails sweeping the ground; but a still greater number of both sexes, were carried about in a kind of sedan chair of a curious construction, and generally ornamented with gilding. The curtains were sometimes drawn aside for the purpose of peeping out. The men who were thus carried along were generally priests and nobles, as I judged by their ribbons and decorations; for it is not the custom in this country to lay aside any insignia of distinction, to be used only on days of ceremony or parade. Nothing surprised me more than the number of persons I saw in the street with decorations of one kind or other; I could not but think that in becoming so common and being so frequently exhibited, they must cease to impart dignity or importance to the wearers. Contrasted with the habits and opinions of our country, where man is by nature a noble and dignified being, this idle and silly display produced in my mind the very reverse of respect. The town seemed to be crowded with inhabitants of every color and hue, but the proportion of those who with us would be called white, was by far the least considerable. The Portuguese are generally of a very dark complexion, but the number of negroes and of the mixed race was such, as to give a different cast in the general appearance of the population, from that of any town I have ever seen. We were continually meeting pairs of lazy lounging soldiers, who it seems are constantly walking in the streets with their bayonets, for the purpose of preventing disturbance; their in

solent and insulting deportment to the lower classes of people, gave the most certain indications of a despotic government. Where the common soldier thinks himself above the mechanic or artizan, and the officer occupies a rank distinct from, and above the people, civil liberty is scarcely more than a name. In the new part of the city the houses are better constructed, but the best have but an indifferent appearance when compared to those in our cities; they seem also to be constructed on a plan calculated to insure a jealous seclusion from every human eye. We visited the public gardens so particularly described in Macartney's embassy; but whether it was owing to the season, this being the period of frequent rains, or whether attributable to neglect, we found them in a very different state from what we had been led to expect. We saw but few people in them, and these not of the most prepossessing appearance. In the shrubs and trees of the garden, I saw but little to attract my attention, except the coffee plant which grows here in great perfection, and which was at this time loaded with berries. As to much of what I had seen thus far, I found that my residence in New Orleans, had made me acquainted with many objects which a citizen of our middle or northern states, who has never been abroad, would contemplate with wonder; and if possessed with an over share of vanity, would ascribe to his superior discernment, what was nothing more than a proof of his ignorance. On our return towards the quay, we stepped into the king's chapel where we were told mass had just been said for the princess Charlotte of England; the news of whose death had reached Rio sometime before our arrival. There was

a great profusion of ornaments and gilding through the chapel, and behind the altar a picture of the royal family, no way remarkable for design or execution. The priest who had been officiating, a man of gigantic stature, and exhibiting strong indications of hav-' ing been well fed, brushed hastily past us towards the door, with long strides, in order to take a look at our frigate which was then firing a salute; he was careful however, although in great haste, and his mind occupied with the idea of powder and smoke, to bow his knee before a crucifix which he had to pass.

The day after our arrival we went by invitation of our minister, Mr. Sumpter, to dine at his house, situated in the direction of the sugar loaf, and at the distance of about three miles from our anchorage. We were rowed in the barge into a beautiful little sandy bay of a circular form, with a clear smooth regular beach, and bordered by very handsome country retreats, all built since the arrival of the king, since which time, improvements of every kind, are said to have advanced with prodigous rapidity. There is here a small level plain at the foot of the mountains, and similar to those of which I have spoken as being very numerous around this magnificent harbor, which in following its indents, is said to be nearly two hundred miles in circumference. We were received by Mr. Sumpter with the pleasure which is natural to suppose would be felt by him, on meeting his countrymen at so great a distance from the United States, while the satisfaction on our part was scarcely less. Mrs. Sumpter we were informed had retired to an elevated part of the mountain some twelve miles off, on account