time restored. But when this viceroy was deposed by the people of Buenos Ayres, in 1810, the Spanish interest was once more successful in Monte Video, after an unavailing effort of the Creoles, to follow the example of the capital. Open hostilities now ensued. The government of Buenos Ayres having excited the people of the Banda Oriental to revolt, laid siege to this city, but which they were compelled to abandon and again resume, accordingly as they were successful or otherwise, in the struggle with the Spaniards in the upper provinces, until the close of the year 1814, when Buenos Ayres finally succeeded in capturing the city. During all this time, the intercourse between it and the country was almost entirely suspended, and its trade of course declined. The effects of a protracted siege, on its prosperity, may be easily imagined. The matter was still worse, when Buenos Ayres came to get possession of the city, as Artigas with his followers had previously deserted the cause, and was in arms against his countrymen. A few months afterwards, the inhabitants of Monte Video having esta

* "The garrison of Monte Video had received supplies and reinforcements from Spain; and although they had been defeated in a sortie against the besieging army, it was apprehended that a junction might be effected at Santa Fee, of the victorious army of Lima with the disposable force at Monte Video. The royal squadron having the command of the river La Plata, rendered this movement very probable."-Mr. Poinsett's report, p. 86. An attempt was actually made in the fall of 1813, to take possession of a point on the Parana, by a body of Spanish troops; they were attacked near San Lorenzo, by San Martin, and entirely defeated. This was considered a brilliant affair in the then sinking fortunes of the republic, though in itself of but little moment, compared to the subsequent achievements of this celebrated general.

blished a government, set up a press, opened colleges and schools, the town was evacuated by the troops of Buenos Ayres, who had employment enough in the upper provinces.* The place soon after fell under the sway of this barbarian, who continued from that time in open hostility to Buenos Ayres, contrary to the wishes of the intelligent and respectable part of the community, which he is enabled to disregard, in consequence of his having at his command, the singular kind of force, composed of the wild herdsmen, who are so much attached to him as their leader. The Portuguese taking advantage of the defection of Artigas, took possession of Monte Video under the pretext, that their own safety required it. They allege that Artigas had committed hostilities on the adjoining provinces of Brazil, and that the state of anarchy which he had occasioned, held out a dangerous example to the herdsmen of their provinces, whose habits and propensities were similar to those of the herdsmen of the Banda Oriental. The marching of their divisions, amounting in the whole to ten thousand men, has proved destructive to the settlements or villages of the country; and the occupation of this city by general Lecor, with the principal division, consisting of five thousand men, which has since been reinforced, may be considered as giving it the finishing blow. Within eight years, the population has been reduced at least two-thirds; many of the principal inhabitants have removed; property to an immense

* Mr. Poinsett thinks it was a capital error on the part of the government of Buenos Ayres, not to have destroyed the fortifications of Monte Video, so as to prevent an enemy from taking advantage of them.

amount in the delightful suburbs, which contained a greater population than the town, has been destroyed, and the value of what remains reduced to a mere trifle. It is in fact, nothing but a garrison, with a few starved inhabitants, who are vexed and harrassed by the military. I am told, that notwithstanding this misery, there is a theatre here, and that the evenings are spent in balls and dances, perhaps for want of other employments; the outward actions are not always the certain index of the heart. When we consider the stagnation of business, the depreciation of property, and the deficiency of supplies, we may easily conjecture what must be the condition of the people. There is little doubt, that had this place remained attached to the government of Buenos Ayres, the Portuguese would not have molested it; but the revolt of Artigas and his disorganizing system, furnished too fair an opportunity for making themselves masters of a territory they had coveted for more than a century and an half.

On our return to the hotel, we found Mr. Graham, who had come on shore, and it was agreed to remain all night. General Carrera proposed to us a ride early the next morning, and politely offered to procure us horses; the proposal was gladly acceded to. Accordingly, the next morning, we sallied forth at one of the gates, to take a view of the country outside of the walls, and within the Portuguese lines, which extend around about three miles. It would not be considered safe to go beyond them, lest we should fall in with the Gauchos, the name by which the people of Artigas are designated, and who might take a fancy to our clothes. The general observed, that with respect to himself, he would have nothing to fear, as he was known to them;

ness.

but he was not certain that he could afford protection to those who were with him. I do not suppose they are quite as ferocious as they are generally represented to be; but I presume they are very little better than the Missouri Indians. We soon found ourselves in the midst of ruins, whose aspect was much more melancholy than those of the city itself. Nearly the whole extent which I have mentioned, was once covered with delightful dwellings, and contiguous gardens, in the highest cultivation; it is now a scene of desolation. The ground scarcely exhibits traces of the spots where they stood, or of the gardens, excepting here and there, fragments of the hedges of the prickly pear, with which they had formerly been enclosed. The fruit trees, and those planted for ornament, had been cut down for fuel, or perhaps through wantonOver the surface of this extensive and fertile plain, which a few years ago contained as great a population as the city itself, there are, at present, not more than a dozen families, upon whom soldiers are billeted, and a few uninhabited dilapidated buildings. This is the result of the unhappy sieges which have reduced the population of this city and suburbs, from upwards of thirty thousand to little more than seven. From this, some idea may be formed of the havoc which has been made. We found, however, in riding along the basin above the town, a fine garden, which had escaped the common wreck. We alighted, and were hospitably received by the owner, who led us through his grounds, and showed us his fruit trees, and vegetables. It is from this spot that Lecor's table is supplied. The fruits, peaches, grapes, figs, oranges, apples, &c. are exceedingly fine. In this

enchanting climate, (with the exception of a few of the tropical fruits,) all the fruits that are most esteemed, ripen in the open air, in great perfection. In fact, I believe that the climate is surpassed by none in the world, not even by that of Italy or the south of France. It experiences neither the sultry heat of summer, nor the chilling blasts of winter. The air so pure, that putrefaction can scarcely be said to take place; we observed the remains of several dead animals, which seemed to have dried up, instead of going to decay. Flesh wounds are said to heal with difficulty, from the

same cause.

After leaving this place we continued our ride in a different direction; the air cool and refreshing. The ground gradually rises on retiring from the town. I was reminded of the magnificent scite of our capital, the city of Washington. But nothing excited my surprise so much as the amazing fertility of the soil. It is a light, rich, black mould, superior even to our best river bottoms; and this is its general character over the whole country, Cotton, the sugar cane, Indian corn, and grain of every kind, would be equally congenial to this soil and climate, where pasturage has hitherto been almost the exclusive employment, and which renders it impossible for a country to be populous. This province alone is capable of containing a population as great as France, and yet the number of its inhabitants, at no time exceeded sixty or seventy thousand. We remarked as we rode along, growing about on the plains or commons, great quantities of a species of thistle, which is cut down, dried, and made into faggots for fuel, in consequence of the scarcity of wood. Dried animals, horses, sheep, &c. are made use of for