seamen, except that he had a handkerchief tied round the crown of his head, his hair queued behind, and his coarse, thick, black locks, projected to an enormous size on each side. His complexion, though not quite so dark, and his features, were not unlike the North American Indian. His visage was rather longer, and cheek bones not so high. But what was most remarkable in him, was his immoveable gravity of countenance, and inveterate silence. He seemed to have no more animation than the figure of Red Pol in Peale's Museum, and his eye had not even the fire and expression of the dead image of the North American. Every thing he did, appeared to be with a slow mechanical movement, as if produced by machinery, and not by intellect; so that if the same thing had been repeated fifty times, it appeared to me that there would scarcely have been a difference of a single instant in point of time, or the slightest variation of gesture. The owner of our vessel told me, that he had had him in his employment for two years, that although slow, he was exceedingly faithful and trusty. He told me that every person in business, made a point, if possible, to procure a Paraguayo; that they could all read and write, were sober in their habits, and very humble and submissive; of late years, in consequence of the state of things, they had almost disappeared from the lower part of the river. In fact, it is chiefly by the commerce with Paraguay, that the sailors of the river are formed; as it was there, also, that the only vessels used in its navigation, were constructed. The greater part of the villages on the Parana, below the Paraguay, are composed of the civilized Guaranys; naturally a spiritless race, but rendered, if possible,

still more tame and submissive by this change of life. The storms of the revolution have, probably, occasioned them but little uneasiness; they are, therefore, very indifferent materials for revolutionary purposes. I obtained, with difficulty, some answers to a few questions which I put to Paraguayo, respecting the navigation of the river. He said, that as the wind blew a great part of the year up the Parana and Paraguay, sloops used in its navigation, ascended with sails, that the voyage was long and tedious; it took five or six weeks to go to Assumption, the capital of Paraguay, about twelve hundred miles up, that there were a great many islands in the river, covered with wood, near which they sometimes stopped and anchored for the night, as they only navigated in the day time. That the borders of the river from Buenos Ayres to Corrientes, seven or eight hundred miles, are very thinly inhabited, but that the soil is fertile, and banks not subject to inundation.

About day break we found ourselves in the outer roads, about six miles from shore, where vessels of a larger size are obliged to moor, as the water is too shoal for them to approach nearer. A light fog rising soon after, prevented us from having a clear view of the city until after we had cast anchor among the smaller vessels, about half a mile from land. Phoebus at last lifted the curtain, and our impatient eyes beheld the celebrated seat of liberty and independence of the south. How different the thoughts which rushed across my mind from those I experienced on approaching Rio Janeiro! There is no king here no hereditary nobility-the power of the state is acknowledged to be in the people, and in no

other. If this be their guiding star, it must, in the end bring them safely through; provided this be their motto, I care not for the present defects in the state of society, or the errors of government; the cause is a glorious one, and heaven will smile upon it. The public functionaries have been made, and can be unmade by them; of how many countries of the world can this be said? I own myself one of those who prefer the whirlwinds of democracy, to the stagnant calm of despotism. Never shall I again behold a scene more sublime; a people not only struggling against oppressive power, but against the errors and prejudices of centuries, and for the happiness of myriads yet unborn; a people who have followed our example, who admire our institutions, and who may settle down in rational and free governments; for I view even the possibility of such a consummation, as something great. Yes, they are destined to break the chains of slavery, ignorance, and superstition in the south, as we have in the north.

I shall endeavor to give the reader a rude sketch of the city, as it appeared to us, a task much easier than to convey the moral impressions left on the mind. It stretches along a high bank about two miles; its domes and steeples, and heavy masses of building, give it an imposing, but somewhat gloomy aspect. Immense piles of dingy brown colored brick, with little variety, heavy and dull, shewed that it did not take its rise under the patronage of liberty. Compared to Philadelphia or New-York, it is a vast mass of bricks piled up without taste, elegance, or variety. The houses in some places, appear to ascend in stages; one story rising from the bottom of the bank, the second story

leaving part of it as a terrace, and, in like manner, where the building rose to three stories, a second terrace was left, besides the roof of the house, which is invariably flat. The whole has the appearance of a vast fortification. The streets at regular intervals, open at right angles with the river, and their ascent is steep. Between the bank and the water's edge, there is a space of considerable width, rarely covered by the tides; a number of people were seen here presenting some appearance of the busy bustle of trade, while the border of the river, for more than a mile, was occupied by washerwomen, and the green sward covered with clothes spread out in the sun. Between the sward and the bank, the earth is bare, but some poplar trees are planted with seats underneath,* and this appears to be a kind of mall or promenade. There projects out into the water, a long narrow pier or wharf, composed of a mass of stone and earth, and which is said to have cost the king of Spain half a million of dollars, the stone used in its construction having been brought from the island of Martin Garcia, at the mouth of the Uruguay; excepting at high tides, it by no means answers the purpose for which it was intended. To the left of this, looking towards the city, at the distance of a few hundred yards, stands the fort or castle, its walls extending down to the water's edge, and mounted with cannon. But, as it is not likely that an enemy would attempt a landing in front of the city, and

* I have often in the evenings seen groups of the old Spaniards, (the word old is used to distinguish the European from the American) collected here, or wandering about like Stygian ghosts, with a settled something in their looks which language cannot portray.

as no shipping can approach within gun-shot, it can be of little importance in a military point of view; it is, in fact, without a garrison, and the buildings within have been occupied for public offices, and the residence of the viceroys under the old regime, and of the directors since the revolution; while the cannon are used only in firing salutes. Centinels, however, are seen pacing the walls, and the blue and white flag, waving over their heads. About a mile below this, the high bank suddenly trends inward, leaving a vast level plain, which seems to be partly in cultivation, and partly in pasture grounds, inclosed in the manner of the country, and through which a stream, as large as the Christiana, at Wilmington, enters the river, affording a good harbor for the smaller craft, as also at its mouth, where there is a kind of circular basin. In looking up the river to our right, the city terminates in detached seats and gardens.

Our boat having been prepared, I embarked with lieutenant Clack, Mr. Breeze, the purser, Dr. Baldwin, and the owner of the malacabada. It was necessary to make some arrangements at the custom-house, with respect to our baggage, to prevent unpleasant detention: Mr. Rodney and commodore Sinclair, declined going on shore. As it was low water, it was so shallow, that our boat, though small, could not approach, we were therefore compelled to get into a cart, according to custom, and to be thus ferried to shore, at least a hundred yards. These carts would appear in our country, of a most awkward and clumsy structure. They are drawn by two horses; the wheels are of an enormous size, and the quantity of wood employed in the structure of the vehicle, one might suppose,