PREFACE. To become intelligently acquainted with the physical phenomena of Switzerland and Italy; the spots distinguished for their historical interest-the most remarkable men who have figured on them-and the arts, customs, and general condition of their people-requires no ordinary extent of travel, a careful and sometimes repeated observation of extraordinary objects, which demand familiarity for their just appreciation, and a solicitous application to various sources of knowledge, in converse alike with the living and the dead. To aid such acquisitions, in the prospect of foreign travel through a most interesting part of the globe, this volume has been prepared. It will be found, in addition to its historical details, greatly enriched by the accounts of a large number of visitors, whose pens have faithfully and graphically recorded what they have actually seen, and the thoughts or emotions to which observation gave rise; a result which could not be secured by any solitary traveller. And then, though facilities for travel are absolutely unprecedented, and the thirst to render them available was never so intense, the number of intelligent persons is still large whom circumstances compel to remain at home. They can only follow their sons and daughters, and other endeared relatives, by the aid of imagination; the materials of.whose pictures such works as the present aim to supply; while this volume may serve also as a memorial of travels always remembered with pleasure and gratitude. The numerous engravings which are interspersed through the work, will add greatly, it is believed, to its interest and value. CONTENTS. I.-Mountain Ranges-Formation of the Clouds-The Desert changed-The Snow-line- Switzerland-The Route taken to the North of Italy II. Alpine Mountains and Valleys-Snow Fields-Morning in the Alps-Evening in the Alps-Winter in the Alps-Glaciers-Motion of the Glaciers-Moraines- Avalanches-The People of Switzerland III. The Jura Mountains-Crossed to St. Cergues-Nyon-First Sight of the Lake of Geneva-The City-Its Edifices-Island of Rousseau-Historical Associations of IV.-Lake Leman-A Voyage on it-Lausanne-Vevay-Festival of the Vine-dressers- The Castle of Chillon, and its Prisoners-Villeneuve-First Sight of Mont Blanc- Lake Leman in a Calm and in a Storm-Port du Sex and Bovaret-Meillerie- Bons-Pas des Ormonds-Boltigen-Freyburg-Neuchatel-Lake of Bienne V.-Route from Geneva to Chamouni-Bonneville-Cluses-Grotto of Balme-Nant d'Arpenas-St. Martin-St. Gervais-Col de Bonhomme-Nant Noir-Servoz- Mont Buet-Another Route-Col d'Auterne-The Valley of Chamouni VI.-Mont Blanc-The First Ascent of the Mountain-Subsequent Ascents-The Course taken, and the Peril encountered in the Ascent and Descent VII.-Route to Martigny--The Tête Noire-Overflow of the Dranse 16 24 39 VIII.-The Val d'Aosta-Magnificent View of Mont Blanc-Ascent of the Col de la Seigne.. IX.-The Ascent of the Col du Géant-St. Didier--Pass of the Little St. Bernard-Scene 64 95 101 117 X.-Route from Martigny to the Hospice of the Great St. Bernard-Its Visitants and Monks-Dogs of the Hospice-the Morgue. Switzerland a Country of singular Beauty and Diversity-Ascents of Mountains-Phenomena of the Glaciers 124, 144 XI.-Animals of the Alpine Regions-the Chamois, the Marmot, the Lynx, and the Goat- 238 XVII.-Cascade of Giessbach-The Valley of Lauterbrunnen-The Staubbach--The Jungfrau 251 XVIII.—The Valley of Grindelwald-Its Glaciers-The Faulhorn-Passage of the Strahleck 269 XXI.-A Day at the "Hôtel des Neuchatelois" 306 XXXII.-The Canton of the Grisons-Coire-Mayenfeld-Country of Davos-Col Fluella 460 XXXIX.-Lombardy-Verona-Padua-Mantua-Cremona XL.-The Lakes of Lombardy: Garda, Como, Maggiore, and Lugano DIRECTIONS FOR TRAVELLERS. THE first requisite for a traveller on the continent is a passport, which we strongly recommend every one to get from the Foreign-office, inasmuch as it will last for life, if countersigned afresh every year by the ministers or consuls of the various countries that may be visited. In order to procure these passports, application must be made, in writing, to her Majesty's Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs, accompanied by a recommendation from a member of Parliament, or some established banking firm in the United Kingdom. The principal bankers have printed forms of recommendation ready, which only require filling up, and which they are willing to give to those who bank with them, or, through them, to any of their friends. This form, thus filled up and signed, must then be taken to the Foreign-office, and on the following day, between the hours of twelve and four, the passport may be obtained, the fee being 7s. 6d. It should then be mounted in a pocketbook, containing also several blank leaves for the risés, as the official signatures are termed; and the name of the party and the word "Passport" should be stamped on the outside. Lastly, the signatures of the ambassadors or consuls of the countries to be passed through must be obtained; those of the former are granted gratis, those of the latter at a small charge. The other parties from whom passports may be procured, are foreign ambassadors and consuls of continental states, and English consuls abroad, and in Scotland from the Lord Provost, Edinburgh. For persons who visit the countries described in the present work, the risés of the French consul (the French ambassador does not grant risés), and the Sardinian and Austrian ambassadors, if Switzerland be reached by way of Paris. If Belgium be passed through, and the Rhine followed, the additional signatures of the Belgian and Prussian ambassadors. It must be remembered, however, that the Austrian ambassador in London vises only Foreign-office passports, and for other passports the visé of the Austrian ambassador must be obtained in Paris, Frankfort, or some other large continental city. When several members of the same family, or two friends, travel together, they can have their names included in one passport. LUGGAGE. We recommend that as little luggage as possible should be taken, in consequence of the expense and trouble likely to be occasioned by the frequent custom-house examinations. There is the less necessity for taking much linen, inasmuch as at all the large hotels laundresses are kept who will wash up a few things in a very short time. Soap is never supplied at hotels on the continent, and, therefore, a tablet should always form part of the luggage. For those who intend to walk, and thus really enjoy Swiss scenery, woollen footed stockings will be found to be the best, as keeping the feet from being cut as they would be by cotton stockings; a very strong pair of boots or shoes, stout and moderately warm clothes, to withstand the sudden changes of temperatures, and the heavy showers and storms so common among the mountains. As a general rule, the clear and cold water, so abundant in mountainous districts, will be found by far the most refreshing beverage. By all means avoid taking large quantities of milk when on a journey. A guide book and a map will also be required; the best are, decidedly, Murray's Hand-books," and, for Switzerland, "Keller's second Road Map," which may be procured at Geneva, or any other large town. TRAVELLING.-The means of getting to Switzerland and Lombardy are various. We will mention the principal: 1. By way of Paris. From London to Dover, and Boulogne or Calais-to Newhaven and Dieppe-Southampton and Havre-rail to Paris-from Paris by rail to Strasburg, and thence to Bâle; or by rail to Dijon or Chalons sur Saône, and thence by diligence to Geneva or Lausanne; or by rail and steamboat to Lyons, and thence by diligence to Turin (thirty-six hours) across Mount Cenis. 2. By way of the Rhine. From London to Ostend by steamer, thence by rail through Ghent, Malines, Aix-la-Chapelle to Cologne-thence by steamer up the Rhine, passing all the beautiful scenery on its banks, to Mayence-thence by rail to Frankfort, Heidel |