TURNPIKE AT TAHITI.

19

shipmen Irving, Maury, Taylor, and Anthony. We spent the day much in the manner of the last; but in returning, young Anthony and myself took a turnpike, which has been constructed almost entirely around the island-a distance of near a hundred miles -as far as Mr. Nott's, at Pare. This road is a fine and praiseworthy work for such a people-the labor principally of convicts, proved guilty of various breaches of the laws. It is a broad, gravel way, extending, for the most part, in a direct line from point to point along the coast, smoothly and well finished, and provided with narrow bridges of plank over the water courses and streamlets, running from the mountains to the sea. Thickly embowered with• luxuriant groves of various trees-skirted, here and there, with the humble but comfortable habitations of the islanders-opening occasionally upon a bright glade or extensive meadow land, with fine views of the mountains on one side, and the ocean on the other, it is, in many places, beautiful as a drive in the pleasure grounds of an American mansion, or the park of a gentleman in England.

The distance we travelled over it at this time, was about three miles; and we were treated with great civility and kindness by all whose habitations we passed, and by those met on our way. Within about a mile of Mr. Nott's, a side road leads to the point occupied by the residences of the royal chieftains; and we turned into it, for the purpose of visiting their establishment.

Pomaré III., only surviving son of Pomaré II., having died in his childhood two years since, while

20

ROYAL RESIDENCE AND

pursuing his education at the South Sea Academy, on the neighboring island of Eimeo or Morea, as the natives more frequently call it, was succeeded in the supreme authority of Tahiti, Eimeo, Tabuae-manu, or Sir George Sanders' Island-which three constitute the Georgian cluster-by an only sister, under the style of Pomaré Vahine I. of Tahiti, or the Female Pomaré I. of Tahiti. She is now about eighteen, and has been married some years to the eldest son of the prince, or head chief of Tahaa, one of the Society Islands, a hundred miles or more northwest of Tahiti and Eimeo.

Tamatoa, king of Raiatea, the principal island of that group is the maternal grandfather of the young queen, and she with her husband, mother, and an aunt-both daughters of the king of Raiatea, and associated in a regency during the minority of the queen-is at present on a visit there. We of course did not expect to find any person of much distinction; and were received by an inferior chief and his wife, left in charge of the establishment during the absence of the party.

These two are a respectable couple of middle age; and occupy a large, airy, and well kept house, standing near the sea side. A Sandwich Island woman is residing with them at present-the wife of an Hawaiian, sent to Tahiti by Governor Boki, of Oahu, as supercargo of the brig Ainoa, in a voyage from which she has just returned to the Sandwich Islands. The supercargo has remained, to dispose of the goods; and is, at present, with the queen's party at the Society Islands, while his wife keeps a shop

TOMB OF POMARE.

21

for the disposal of Chinese goods, blank books, stationery, slates, pencils, &c., and various articles of hardware, all in demand here, and purchased for cocoanut oil and arrow root. It is not believed, however, from the character of the agent, that this attempt in commercial enterprise will prove very profitable to the governor.

The point is covered with majestic and delightful groves, beneath which is the habitation of the queen, and the dwellings of her immediate dependents. Her house of frame, wattled and plastered, has an entrance, hall, and four rooms on the ground floor, besides an attic; and is a neat and comfortable building, but, in the absence of the royal party, unfurnished and shut up.

The mausoleum of Pomaré II.-in which the remains of his son Pomaré III. are also depositedlike the dwelling of the queen, is a white plastered house, in a large enclosure, embowered in the deepest shades of the groves. Near it, a section of the great royal chapel erected by him after his conversion to Christianity, is still standing; and is kept in good repair as a school-house. The original area of the building was more than seven hundred feet in length, by fifty in breadth.

A short distance farther towards Matavai, on an elevated and conspicuous site, stands the chapel of the Rev. Mr. Nott-a neat, well-finished, and even elegant place of worship. It is an oval, ninety-eight feet in length by fifty in breadth, two stories high, with numerous windows furnished with Venetian blinds. The roof is a beautiful thatch; and the

22

SCHOOLS AT THE

floor, seats, and pulpit, neatly wrought from timber of the bread-fruit tree. The whole is of native workmanship; and would compare to advantage, both in appearance and comfort, with most country churches, in any part of the United States. We joined the boat again at this spot, and reached the Vincennes early in the evening.

On a following day, I made the same excursion for a third time, with Captain Finch and a small party. In going we sailed outside the reef, and entered the harbor by the ship channel. The only incident of interest, varying this from the preceding visits, was the attendance of an hour at a school under the charge of Mr. Pritchard. The number of scholars was about one hundred and fifty of both sexes, from six, to ten and twelve years of age. It is established on the monitorial system; and the exhibition made by the pupils of native intelligence, and their proficiency in reading and writing, in rehearsing hymns and portions of scripture, in answering catechetical questions, and in singing, were such as greatly to interest and gratify us; and to elicit from Captain Finch-in an address to the scholars, interpreted by Mr. Pritchard-high encomiums on the attainments they had already made, and warm encouragement to a persevering attention to the means of improvement and intelligence with which they are favored.

The handwriting of many was quite equal to that of children of the same age, in schools in America; and the elder scholars are pursuing an elementary course in arithmetic, geography, and history. Very

MISSIONARY STATIONS.

23

few district schools in the interior of our own country, are accommodated with so pleasant, convenient, and spacious a school-house; and no school that could be visited, would present an appearance of greater neatness in the children, more brightness and happiness of look, modesty of apparel, and order and propriety of deportment. Schools of a similar kind are under the daily superintendence of the missionaries at every station; and facilities for securing the arts of reading and writing at least, are thus afforded to the whole population.

THE first missionaries to the Georgian Islands, having made the voyage from England by the Cape of Good Hope, without an allowance for the gain of time in sailing eastward, were on their arrival at Tahiti, a half day and more in advance of visitors, coming to the islands by Cape Horn. This difference still continues; and, consequently to-day, though only Saturday, the 22d, in the record on board the Vincennes, is Sunday, the 23d, on shore.

A number of the officers and crew attended the services of Mr. Wilson's chapel, both in the morning and afternoon. The exercises on each occasion