RIDE TO SANTA ANNA.

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LETTER III.

A VILLAGE FETE, AND VISIT TO THE LAKE OF PASIG.

Manilla, February 3d, 1830:

BEFORE sunrise this morning, we were taking a cup of chocolate previous to setting off for the lake, some twenty miles distant, from which the river Pasig flows to the bay. Lieutenants Stribling and Magruder, with Dr. Wessels, and Midshipmen Irving, Huntt, Kieth, and Taylor, had slept on shore, in order to be ready for the trip in the cool of the morning; and, with Mr. Buchanan, Captains Benjamin and Chever, Mr. King and myself, constituted our party.

The excursion is made by water, on the Pasig; but it was arranged that we should not take the river at the town, but go in carriages to the village of Santa Anna, two or three miles distant, by which a long bend in the stream, with a strong current against us, would be cut off. Accordingly we were soon rolling along the calzada, in seven velochès, with the fleetness of the wind, which our ponies, fresh from their stalls, seemed desirous of outstripping. Our luggage was of rather a singular and luxurious character, as seen piled conspicuously at the feet of each couple, in the bottom of the chariots-consisting principally of pillows, which are here showy articles, the cases being of fine cambric,

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DESCRIPTION OF THE

highly wrought and trimmed with inserting of lace and ribbons, over gay colors of pink, blue, yellow, &c.; and of fine mats of the country. Mr. King, with whom I rode, as caterer, carried also a box of claret, sandwiches, bread, cheese, and ale. The use of the pillows will be mentioned in due time.

The drive to Santa Anna is one of the most pleasant in the environs. The road branches from the Calzada, near a picturesque, cottage-like, thatched guard-house, at the north corner of the parade, and is formed by a straight avenue, lined richly with trees of great variety, among which the huts of the natives stand so thickly as to constitute an almost uninterrupted village the greater part of the distance. The freshness of the morning air made it peculiarly delightful; and the fifteen or twenty minutes occupied in accomplishing it, gave a stimulus both to body and mind, that filled every face with bright looks, and every bosom with cheerfulness, as we alighted, and all met, for the first time, in the rural and beautifully embowered Santa Anna.

It has been a general festival day, and all here was life and animation; the whole population, in varied and gay holiday dress, were just dispersing, after attending mass at a venerable and fine stone church-the first, I am told, established on the island-from whose octagonal and lofty turrets, several chimes of bells of different powers, ranged tier above tier, were pouring forth peals indicative of merriment and joy.

Bankas, the name of the canoes of the country, were by engagement waiting our arrival at the edge

BANKAS OR NATIVE CANOES.

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of the stream; and it was but a few moments before we were afloat on the waters of the Pasig. We still remained as in the carriages, two and two in separate canoes, they generally not being capable of containing more, with room to indulge in the luxurious attitude of travelers in them which is that of reclining at full length, on a mat spread in the bottom of the boat, with the head elevated on one of the gay pillows I have mentioned, at a sufficient height to afford a clear view above the sides of the canoe of the banks of the river, and scenery on either side.

In order, however, to give you a better idea of this mode of traveling, I must describe the canoes with greater particularity. They are formed from a single trunk, having much the appearance of the barks of the North American indians; but with several appendages, of which the most important to their safety are two outriggers, one on each side. These are of large bamboo, and lashed parallel to the sides of the banka, at the distance of two or three inches only; ' and render them much more buoyant than they otherwise would be, and very difficult to be overturned. Another fixture of prime importance in such a climate, is a slightly arched awning of mats, supported by stancheons along the sides, which are notched so that it may be elevated or let down at pleasure; proving a sufficient protection from the sun, rain, dew, and every inconvenience of the kind, as it may be lowered till resting like a lid on the canoe. The last convenience particularly worthy of notice, is a floor of split bamboo lashed closely together-making a cool platform to sit or lie upon,

and is at the same time a protection from the water, which occasionally makes its way into the bottom. Two natives, one in the prow and the other in the stern, furnished with paddles, oars, and setting poles -with which they varied and relieved the labor of working the boat-managed it with great skill: and by taking advantage of the eddies and counter currents, first along one shore and then the other, propelled us up the stream of a rapid river, with much greater speed than would be supposed, without ocular demonstration.

The Pasig is a beautiful river, perhaps one hundred yards wide at Santa Anna, and diminishes very little for five or six miles. At that distance, the two streams forming it, one coming from the mountains in the east, and the other from the lake, unite: above this confluence, each is about half that width.

The general course of the river is sufficiently circuitous, to be the more pleasing for its windings, without making the progress tedious. The banks are about four or six feet above the surface of the water, almost every where perpendicular, and as richly fringed with foliage as the most luxuriant imagination could picture-the light, lofty, and graceful bamboo predominating, and contrasting strikingly and beautifully with the compact, wide spreading, round-topped mango. For the first three or four miles, the habitations of the people along this edging of trees and thickets, presented the appearance of a continued village, each hut having its own little groves and shrubbery, through and beyond which glimpses might occasionally be caught of extensive

THE RIVER PASIG.

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rice grounds, like the fields of a farm at home, with here and there a cluster of stacks of straw from which the paddy had been thrashed. In front of each cottage, a well built, substantial flight of stone steps leads down to the water, the last step forming a large platform under the surface, on which to sit or stand in bathing, which is here a daily habit. On some of these, mothers were washing their children previous to putting on their festival clothes; and on others, busy housewives were preparing poultry and vegetables for the holiday dinner, or scouring their cooking utensils and eating dishes.

Rustic belles and beaux, in full dress, were at the same time seen strolling slowly among the groves, or hastening along as if destined to some distant scene of hilarity-all gay and animated, and evidently a mild and happy people. Occasionally a banka, filled with a sprightly party past us swiftly under the double impetus of the paddle and the current; while to fill up the romance, from one or two, the tones of the song and guitar came floating to us in all their wildness, as they glided by.

So much were we delighted with the richness and beauty of the scenery, and the novelty of every thing around, that we could scarce believe ourselves at the village of Pasig, ten miles from Santa Anna, when, just after eight o'clock, the tower of its church was seen rising above the groves in which the town is embowered. We were to spend a principal part of the day here, with an intelligent and wealthy native, one of the aristocracy of the place; and were most hospitably received by himself and a son who has