64 LAND IN A SMALL BOAT. the other to enable the sailing master to take a view of the harbor, that we may have it in our power to speak from observation of its advantages and disadvantages. I must, therefore, drop my pen-only to resume it, I trust, with good news from "a far country." LETTER II. VISIT ON SHORE, AND DESCRIPTION OF THE SCENERY. Mission House, at Byron's Bay, You will be as much surprised, dear H, at the place of my present date, as I am at the opportunity I enjoy of making it. When I wrote yesterday morning, I little thought of spending the night under this roof: but such I am most happy and thankful to say is the fact. At 11 o'clock I left the ship, in the captain's gig, accompanied by Lieutenant Dornin, and Midshipmen Huntt and Wurts: Lieutenant Lardner, the Master, and Midshipmen Maury, going in the third cutter. A tremendous swell was setting towards the land, and it was almost as much as one's life was worth, to attempt getting into the boats, as they rose and fell, apparently ten or twelve feet, with every returning billow. We got off safely however, and as the sea did not break, did very well, with the excep RECEPTION BY MR. GOODRICH. 65 tion of the long pull to the bottom of the bay. The ship was farther off the land than we thought—not less than eight or nine miles, and it was half past 12 o'clock, before we got into the harbor. Animmense thatched building, beautifully finished, on the western side of the bay, near the river of Wairuku, I rightly judged to be the chapel; and we steered for it, knowing that the mission house would be found near. While still a considerable distance from the beach, I recognized Mr. Goodrich among a crowd of natives, beckoning us to the best spot for landing. Shortly afterwards, our boat touched the Hawaiian shore-a thousand varied thoughts and emotions rushed upon my mind and heart, and I was incapable of lifting up my head, lest I should betray what might be interpreted into a weakness by my companions, till I found myself in the strong grasp of a missionary friend and brother. Our meeting was the more impressive and affecting to Mr. Goodrich, from its being entirely unexpected. He had had no further intimation of my proposed visit, than that of having heard of my appointment in the naval service, and of the possibility of my visiting the islands, at some future period. After introducing my fellow-officers, a few minutes walk inland, brought us to the mission house, where I was happy to meet Mrs. Goodrich and two little daughters, in good health. Mr. Goodrich is at present without an associate. The captain had felt it necessary to limit our stay on shore to half an hour; and consequently all was hurry and excitement-a hundred things to learn, VOL. II. 7 66 GARDEN AT THE MISSION HOUSE. a hundred things to tell, and a hundred things to see. After ascertaining that all the missionaries were well, every thing in a most promising and prosperous state, and a great deal else of gratifying intelligence, we took a turn in the garden, where there is much to admire in the variety and luxuriance of the productions of this part of the islands. The location of the mission ground is much more eligible and delightful than when you were here in 1825; commanding fine views of the harbor, ocean, and surrounding shores, ornamented and shaded by clumps of the bread-fruit, and possessing a soil of almost unequalled richness. Every thing except the bread-fruit within the inclosure, is the growth of little more than two years. Yet, besides fine hedges of a native tree very similar in appearance to the mountain ash, of the ti-dracona-damask rose, and cape gooseberry, there are many fine coffee plants, covered with berries of an uncommonly large size, exhibiting a vigor and rankness unequalled by any I saw at Rio de Janiero, a fine vineyard, with vines trained into arbors; tamarind, fig, lime, lemon, orange, and mango trees, strawberries, &c. &c. In the shrubbery, I observed the pride of Barbadoes-casalpinia coriaria-the seeds of which I believe I brought to the island, thriving finely; and by its rich blossoms of crimson and orange, imparting an air of gaiety to every thing near. The strawberry bed too, is from seeds sent to me, and received after our return to America. The news of my arrival spread rapidly among the people; and the house soon began to be thronged GREETINGS OF THE ISLANDERS. 67 with those, who had a recollection of me, but whom, principally, I had forgotten. Many of them shed tears, as they embraced and kissed my hands, or sank at my feet, manifesting a degree of sensibility and affection-considering their slight personal knowledge of me--that was surprising, till informed of the happy fact, that a period of deep seriousness and religious feeling has long existed at this place, and that many of these are still under the influence of the lively affections of recent conversion of a conversion not only from the follies and sins of a worldly life, but from the ignorance, superstition, and prejudices of heathenism, to the love and services of true piety. There were those in the number, however, whom you and I, not only know, but never can forgetparticularly Bartimeus, our blind friend of Lahaina, and John Honorii. They both reside at this station, as assistants to Mr. Goodrich. Many and repeated kind inquiries from them and others were made concerning yourself and children: and "aroha ino rakou," "great affection for them," repeatedly burst from their lips. Our limited half hour was gone before we seemed to have been fifteen minutes on shore: and we felt. ourselves obliged even to decline the refreshments which Mrs. Goodrich had kindly prepared, and to take a hasty leave. The hope, that by some means, I might see them again, before the Vincennes should bid a final adieu to the islands, prevented the feeling that I was bidding them farewell; and I was therefore saved an unnecessary sorrow. 68 ENTRANCE TO THE BAY, After a hard row of two hours, we gained the ship; and as soon as the boats were secured, stood away, as we thought, for Maui. But the wind had already become light and baffling. A heavy swell and current were setting us within the points forming the bay, and our prospects of making much progress for the night were very uncertain: so much so, that after a moment's debate, to my surprise, but equally to my satisfaction, the captain determined upon running into the harbor, before the land breeze should come off; and by spreading a mountain of light sail, we were gently fanned in; and by five o'clock were snugly at anchor abreast of the river and waterfall, and of course in the immediate vicinity of this place. Mr. Goodrich, perceiving our design, boarded us in his canoe, in time to point out the best anchorage for a vessel of our class. As we entered the bay, the rays of the declining sun gleamed brightly over the wide extent of open campaign country, distinguishing this part of Hawaii from that of every other island in the Pacific I have yet visited-presenting its broad lawns and dark groves, in lights and shades of exquisite beauty, and in every variety of verdure, from that which seemed almost white to the deepest green. From the lofty, but primitive looking chapel, as a centre, the humble dwelling of the fisherman and the farmer were seen, widely scattered in every direction; some skirting the beach, as it swept round in the beautiful curvature forming the bottom of the bay; some hanging on the cliffs of the bolder shores; some just peeping from the thick foliage of a grove |