AMERICAN AND ENGLISH BOUQUETS.-Flowers in all the variety of their grace and beauty serve many purposes of showing love and honor, and of ministering comfort and delight. Flowers are strewed before the bride; they are put in the pathway to give an added charm to a welcome; they are used as decorations; they are presented as the most pleasant of gifts; and to the actor or actress nothing is more grateful than the flowers thrown on the stage by their admirers among the audience. So desirous, indeed, are the personages of the stage of receiving these tributes that they are accused of having them made to order and presented to themselves by their own agents.

The bouquets given at the theatres in London are of moderate dimensions, as a rule, compared with those which are offered at dramatic shrines on the other side of the channel. Some of them in circumference are almost as large as cart-wheels, and are rendered ugly by their mere size. The recipients are in the proud but uncomfortable position of having honors thrust upon them which are greater than they well know how to encounter.

The bouquet of private life is generally, however, as we are accustomed to see it, a manageable affair, and a lady to whom two bouquets are presented would hardly take more than one with her into the company which she meant to honor with her presence. In such a case of an embarras de richesses she would consult her convenience and her inclination-would choose either the bouquet which best suited her dress, or that whose donor she specially desired to favor, and the other flowers would be relegated to the decoration of her room, or kept, for consideration, till some more convenient season arrived.

It appears, however, that the American practice with regard to bouquets differs considerably from our own. The Americans are lavish in their use of even costly flowers. We have heard of the "flowerbells" (canopies of flowers) under which it was, not very long ago, the fashion for newly-married couples to stand on the occasion when they were first "at home" to their friends. American ladies have told us that it is the custom to send large baskets of flowers on board the steamers which are to convey ladies from the States to Europe, and that the lady who receives the greatest number of these floral tributes is considered to be specially distinguished. The staterooms of a large steamer leaving New York will be crowded to excess and inconvenience with these fleeting tokens of what we may hope is lasting regard.

We have also recently learned that in some towns of the States, Philadelphia for example, the number of bouquets carried by a lady at a ball is considered to be indicative of the number of her actual admirers of the other sex. A lady without a bouquet confesses herself without an admirer sufficiently interested in her to have given her even a simple flower. On the other hand, if a lady has several admirers, and each has sent her a bouquet, she appears with the whole number. No donor is more favored than another. This may give rise to a sense of equality, and of leyelling of the claims of the admirers, but it is, to say the least, inconvenient to the lady and her partners. We have heard of a lady who appeared at a ball with ten huge bunches of flowers, some of which she had to trust to her partner, while she carried the remainder herself. We are told that "the whole of them would have filled a wheelbarrow, and the effect was awkward in the extreme." This is easily to be believed.

The carrying of the bouquets is like the bearing by the Indian brave of the scalps of those he has killed

-a token of victory. It is a fashion that we think is hardly likely to be imported from America by our belles who visit the Exhibition.-The London Queen.

THE following account of the first anniversary of the celebration of Independence Day has been taken from Dunlap's Pennsylvania Packet, of Tuesday, July 8th, 1777:

"Last Friday, the 4th of July, being the Anniver. sary of the Independence of the United States, was celebrated in this city (Philadelphia) with demonstrations of joy and festivity. About noon all the armed ships and galleys in the river were drawn up before the city, dressed in the gayest manner, with the colors of the United States and streamers displayed. At one o'clock, the yards being properly manned, they began the celebration of the day by a discharge of thirteen cannon from each of the ships, and one from each of the galleys, in honor of the Thirteen United States.

"In the afternoon, an elegant dinner was prepared for Congress, to which were invited the President (of Pennsylvania) and the Supreme Executive Coun cil and Speaker of the Assembly of this State, the general officers and colonels of the army, and strangers of eminence and members of the several Continental Boards in town. The Hessian band of music, taken in Trenton on the 26th of December last, attended, and heightened the festivity with some fine performances, suited to the joyous occa sion; while a corps of British deserters, taken into the service of the Continent by the State of Georgia, being drawn up before the door, filled up the intervals with feux de joie. After dinner, a number of toasts were drunk, all breathing independence and a generous love of liberty, and commemorating the gallantly exposed their lives and fell gloriously in memories of those brave and worthy patriots who defense of freedom and the righteous cause of their country.

"Each toast was followed by a discharge of artil. lery and small arms, and a suitable piece of music by the Hessian band.

"The glorious Fourth of July' was reiterated three times, accompanied with triple discharges of cannon and small arms and loud huzzas, that resounded from street to street through the city. To ward evening several troops of horse, a corps of artillery, and a brigade of North Carolina forces, which was in town on its way to join the grand army, were drawn up in Second Street and reviewed by Congress and the general officers. The evening was closed with the ringing of bells, and at night there was a grand exhibition of fireworks (which began and concluded by thirteen rockets) on the Commons, and the city was beautifully illuminated. Everything was conducted with the greatest order and decorum, and the face of joy and gladness was universal.

"Thus may the Fourth of July-that glorious and ever memorable day-be celebrated through America, by the sons of freedom, from age to age, till time shall be no more. Amen, and Amen!"

WONDERS OF SLEEP.-It is related that a man fell asleep as the clock tolled the first stroke of twelve. He awakened ere the echo of the twelfth stroke had died away, having in the interval dreamed that he committed a crime, was detected after five years, tried and condemned; the shock of finding the halter about his neck aroused him to consciousness, when he discovered that all these events had happened in an infinitesmal fragment of time. Mohammed, wishing to illustrate the wonders of sleep, told how a certain man, being a sheik, found himself, for his pride, made a poor fisherman; that he lived as one for sixty years, bringing up a family and working hard; and how, upon waking from this long dream, so short a time had he been asleep that the narrow-necked gourd bottle filled with water, which he knew he overturned as he fell asleep, had not time to empty itself.

THERE are fifteen English and twenty-two American exhibitors in the French Fine Arts Salon of this year.

THE above was organized for, and was built by Mr. Thomas Kinney, Portsmouth, Ohio. The design is a simple evolution, costing about $3000: it is built of frame, weather-boarded; roof of slate finished in appropriate but good style. It is one of that kind of houses that builders everywhere think they can erect without architectural assistance: our experience leads us to fully know that if seventy-five dol. lars were spent in procuring the proper drawings and full instructions necessary, hundreds of dollars would, in many instances, have been saved.

Second Floor.-F chamber, 10 feet by 13 feet: F chamber, 13 feet by 16 feet; F chamber, 14 feet by 15

P

FIRST STORY.

Our revised and enlarged edition of Hobbs's Architectural Designs for suburban and rural residences, containing 123 designs, with their plans, is now ready. We are prepared to supply orders for the same. The work is finely bound in cloth. Price $3.50. Address Isaac H. Hobbs & Son, Architects, 804 North Eighth Street, Philadelphia.

First Floor.-K kitchen, 14 feet by 15 feet: A pan. try, 7 feet by 9 feet: DR dining room, 16 feet by 18 feet; P parlor, 14 feet by 15 feet; H hall; C closets.

SECOND STORY.

feet: SW sewing-room, 6 feet by 7 feet 6 inches; BR bath-room, 6 feet by 7 feet; C closets.

THE following brief notice of the first public reading of the Declaration of Independence appears in the Pennsylvania Journal of July 10, 1776:

"On Monday last (8th of July) the Committee of Safety and Committee of Inspection went in procession to the State House, where the Declaration of Independence of the United States of America was read to a very large number of the inhabitants of the city and county, which was received with general applause and heartfelt satisfaction. And in the evening the king's coat-of-arms was brought from the hall where the said king's courts were formerly held, and burned, amid the acclamations of the crowd of spectators."

1

NEW SHEET MUSIC, published by J. Starr Holloway, 811 Spring Garden St., Philadelphia, who will fill all orders and send by return mail.

New Pieces.-Cagliostro Waltzes, Strauss' latest, 75 cents. English Sparrow Waltz, very easy, Nilson, 20. Autumu Polka, by Everett, easy and pretty, with elegant picture title, 40. Autumn Eve Polka, Holloway, 25.

New Songs.-Centennial Song and Chorus, spirited, and just the thing for the Centennial year, 35. The Dew is on the Blossom, very pretty, 40. To-Morrow, one of Glover's prettiest songs, 25.

Also, Centennial Promenade March, 35. Flags of All Nations March, with handsome title page of flags of all nations, 50. Centennial Galop, 30.

Holloway's Musical Monthly for September is ready, and contains some fine music. Send 40 cents for this number, or $1 for the last three numbers. A copy for September free to all who order $1.50 worth of music from the above list: Address Mr. Holloway, as above.

FRANK MILLER, SON & Co.'s Crown Dressing for Ladies and Children's Shoes, is giving universal satisfaction. The shoe dealers represent its sale as very large, because of its fine gloss and color, and good effect upon the leather.

THAT blackguard Liszt, the pianist, it is announced is about to visit London. This is the fellow who, after one of his concerts, allowed certain ladies "the honor of kissing his hand;" but only those who had praised him most. He is and always has been a very immoral man.

ALL ladies indorse the use of Laird's Bloom of

Youth as the best toilet preparation for preserving the skin and beautifying the complexion. Sold at all druggists.

ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS.

UNDER this head will be found all information connected with MSS., and answers from the Fashion Editress.

In sending an order to the Fashion Editress, the cash must always accompany it, or it will not be at. tended to.

All persons requiring answers by mail must send a post-office stamp; and for all articles that are to be sent by mail, stamps must be sent to pay return postage.

Be particular, when writing, to mention the town, county, and State you reside in. Nothing can be made out of post-marks.

Any person making inquiries to be answered in any particular number must send their request at least two months previous to the date of publication

of that number.

Authors are requested to pay full letter postage on all MSS. Hereafter we will not take any MS. from the post-office when the full postage has not been paid. Mrs. C. E. S.-Sent patterns July 10th. Mrs. E. A.-Sent silk 15th.

Miss C. H.-Sent lead comb 16th.

Mrs. R. A.-Sent hair plait 18th.

Wm. Alexander.-Sent articles by express 18th.
Mrs. A. L. L.-Sent needles 19th.

Ellen.-Sent ring 20th.

M. C. E.-Sent infant's robe 20th.

Mrs. Lock.-Sent invitation cards 20th.

Miss C. R.-Sent box by express 25th.
M. S. B.-Sent patterns 25th.

Mrs. S. H.-Sent patterns 25th.
Victorine.-Sent lead comb 26th.

Bessie-1. It is not necessary for the gentleman to talk exclusively to the lady he takes in to dinner. 2. The lady he takes in should be on his right.

Charles B.-A gentleman should invariably offer his right arm to a lady, but his wife may, if she choses, take the left. To all other ladies the right arm is imperative.

R. E.-Balls should be avoided while crape is worn. Rose. If you are the same age as you state the young gentleman to be, we conclude you are all still

at school, in which case you should devote yourself to your studies, instead of writing about love. Housekeeper.-Silver articles, not in daily use, should be covered with wash-leather, or some soft material to keep them as much as possible from the air.

Nellie.-In the language of flowers, the pink carnation, "coyness:" white and mauve variagated nation is an emblem of "woman's love;" white cargeranium, "bridal favor:" fern-leaf, "sincerity."

Annie.-Chocolate is fattening, coffee and tea are

not.

Ada.-Keep a small bit of orris root in the mouth; it will make the breath very agreeable.

Fashions.

NOTICE TO LADY SUBSCRIBERS.

HAVING had frequent applications for the purchase of jewelry, millinery, etc., by ladies living at a distance, the Editress of the Fashion Department will hereafter execute commissions for any who may desire it, with the charge of a small percentage for the time and research required. Spring and autumn bonnets, materials for dresses, jewelry, envelopes, hair-work, worsteds, children's wardrobes, mantil. las, and mantelets will be chosen with a view to economy as well as taste; and boxes or packages for. warded by express to any part of the country. For the last, distinct directions must be given.

When goods are ordered, the fashions that prevail here govern the purchase; therefore, no articles will be taken back. When the goods are sent, the transaction must be considered final.

Instructions to be as minute as possible, accompanied by a note of the height, complexion, and general style of the person, on which much depends in choice.

The publisher of the LADY'S BOOK has no interest in this department, and knows nothing of its transactions; and whether the person sending the order is or is not a subscriber to the LADY'S BOOK, the Fashion Editress does not know.

Orders, accompanied by checks for the proposed expenditure, to be addressed to the care of L. A. Godey, Esq.

No order will be attended to unless the money is first received. Neither the Editor nor the Publisher will be accountable for losses that may occur in remitting.

DESCRIPTION OF STEEL FASHION PLATE.

Fig. 1.-Walking dress of elephant-colored silk and velvet. The front of underskirt and overskirt are of silk, trimmed with plaitings, as are also the sides: the back breadths are of velvet. Velvet basque. trimmed with fringe with netted heading; silk sleeves. Silk bonnet, trimmed with feather and flowers,

The underskirt is plain: the polonaise is trimmed Fig. 2.-Walking dress of two shades of brown silk. with darker velvet and fringe, also a sash of the velvet. Chip bonnet, trimmed with brown velvet and feathers.

assee.

Fig. 3.-Carriage dress of violet silk and gray damThe underskirt and fronts of cuirass basque are of the silk; the overskirt front and sash drapery in back of skirt; back of bodice and sleeves of the damassee, trimmed with fringe. Lilac silk bonnet, trimmed with feathers and flowers.

Fig. 4. Visiting dress of two shades of blue silk. The lower skirt and polonaise of the darkest shade : the sash, which is scarf-shaped, draped across the front of the light shade; the sleeves of dress and trimming of bodice. Blue silk bonnet, trimmed with long feather of the light shade.

Fig. 5.-Evening dress of pink silk, made with underskirt and polonaise. The underskirt is cut in turrets around the bottom, with four narrow flounces above. The polonaise is trimmed with narrow bands of silk, with embroidery between.

Fig. 6.-Suit for girl of six years, made of green

Cashmere, trimmed with silk, and broad silk sash. | Cap of silk, trimmed with lace.

DESCRIPTION OF EXTENSION SHEET.
FIRST SIDE.

Fig. 1.-House dress of black silk. The underskirt is trimmed with two plaited flounces; polonaise open sideways across the front and fastened with buttons; velvet collar, cuffs, and sash.

Fig. 2-House dress of gray Cashmere. The underskirt is trimmed with rows of velvet of a darker shade; the polonaise is trimmed to correspond; fringe and fancy tassels.

Figs. 3 and 4.-Front and back view of dress of black grenadine. The front breadth, forming the overskirt, is drawn and trimmed with rows of fringe. The skirt of dress is trimmed with a ruffle with puff above it; the sides and back breadths are trimmed with ruffles. Basque bodice, trimmed to correspond with fringe.

Fig. 5.-Walking dress of brown silk and plaid camel's-hair. The underskirt is of the silk, trimmed with two plaitings of silk with folds of the camel'shair above them. The overskirt and bodice are of the plaid, trimmed with the silk. Brown straw bonnet, trimmed with brown silk and flowers.

Fig. 6-Walking dress of black silk. The underskirt is trimmed with one ruffle and a puff, the overskirt with ball fringe. Tight-fitting casaque, made of guipure insertion and black velvet, and trimmed around with lace. Black straw bonnet, trimmed with velvet and feathers.

SECOND SIDE.

Fig. 1.-Black chip hat, trimmed with cardinal red and black silk, ribbon, and bird.

Figs. 2and 3-Collar and cuff of embroidered linen. Figs. 4 and 5.-Collar and cuff of linen with embroidered edge.

Fig. 6.-Gray felt hat, trimmed with silk and long feather.

Fig. 7.-Bonnet of brown felt, trimmed with silk and long feather.

Fig. 8-Waistband (Jeanne d'Arc). This pretty girdle is made of loops of black ribbon velvet, joined together by silver agraffes. It is clasped by a silver buckle on a bow of black velvet. From one of the graffes falls a chain with a carbineer's hook to sup. port a fan, etc.

Fig. 9.-The fan ruche. This ruche is intended for imming dresses, and is newer than the plaitings, with fulness in the centre. The plaits here are sewn ou in clusters.

Fig. 10.-Sacque of heavy black silk, lined and trimmed with lace and fringe.

Figs. 11, 12, 13, 14, and 15.-Shows the diagrams of Fig. 10.

Fig. 16.-Dressing sacque of white cambric, with the front formed of insertion and tucks. Fluted ruffle edges the sides, collar, and cuffs.

Fig. 17.-Fashionable handkerchiefs with colored borders embroidered.

Figs. 18 and 19.-Lace fichu for an elderly lady. The net may be either cream or black, and the bows should be the color that corresponds best with the dress. The fichu opens in front, reaches as low as the waist, where it is ornamented with a bow. The back has double points, also ornamented with rib. bons.

Fig. 20.-Side pocket of violet gros grain silk, suspended from the waistband by a chain of knotted violet silk cord, studded with white pearl beads; rows of pearl beads and droppers 'are introduced upon the pocket, which is finished off by bows of violet gros grain ribbon and silver agraffe.

ON FASHIONS FOR SEPTEMBER.

We have been asked for hints upon mourning, and really do not know what we can say different from what we have heretofore, for mourning does not materially change, and almost every person follows to a certain degree at least, their own ideas upon the subject. Henrietta cloth for deep mourning is rapidly gaining favor; it is the favorite woollen material for dresses worn all the year round in this climate. A good model for these dresses is made with a polonaise, edged with a side plaiting and a band of the material or crape above it; down the front is three rows of small crape buttons, and similar buttons are on the square pockets; the skirt has one deep side plaiting and a wide band. The fashion of almost covering the dress with crape still prevails. Sometimes the entire basque is covered with a layer of crape, while in other cases the sleeves show the bombazine or material of which the dress is made, and only the waist is covered with crape. The lower skirt has a crape cover to the depth of eighteen inches, and the remainder is covered by the overskirt. Dresses of Tamise cloth are made up in the same manner; but this soft and light cloth is very much liked when made up with plaitings of the same. Wraps to be worn with mourning are usually made of the material of the dress. To wear with various dresses are sacques of thin silk covered entirely with English crape. When greater warmth is required, there are graceful mantles in scarf or Dolman shape, made of the soft and lustreless camel's-hair, trimmed with crimped fringe and trimmed with folds of crape, or silk, or else rows of wool braid. For the first and deepest mourning, bonnets made of doubled English crape are worn both winter and summer. Some of these are entirely plain, the veil forming the only trimming; this is from a yard and a quarter to a yard and three-quarters long, according to the height of the wearer, and is finished with a hem a quarter of a yard deep at the lower edge; it is allowed to fall over the back, and veils of plain Brussels net or crape is put tightly across the face. Black is not worn around the neck and wrists except by widows, and in the deepest mourning: plain linen collars, crêpe lisse, and tarlatan ruches are usually worn. Plaitings made of linen lawn with a hem-stitched edge are also fashionable for the neck and wrists.

Suits of light woollen materials are being made up to wear at this season, before the fall styles are fully decided upon; they are very plainly made, but are chosen in odd, quaint shades, and brightened up by dashes of color in the trimming. Thus drab and cardinal color are seen together. The polonaise is of

soft drab, or else French-gray camel's-hair, and its only trimming is long-looped bows of ribbon that is drab on one side and cardinal red on the other. The bright color is used for the inside, and appears as a facing of the bows; the lower skirt is of black silk. Such suits are no longer made with sleeves matching the skirt; the coat sleeves are of the woollen stuff; nor is the color used around the wrists and neck; they are simply trimmed with cuffs and English collar of the same. Striped woollens of shaded gray or brown are also used for these polonaise suits, and are made up in simple Marguerite style, without other trimming than ribbon bows on the back of the skirt, low on the tournure, and down the front. The edge of the garment is merely hemmed or faced, and finished by three or four rows of sewing machine stitching at the top of the hem. Gray blue is also a stylish color for such garments, and is seen in plain, in shaded stripes, and in small plaids.

Close-fitting, long-waisted habits are the fashionable overdresses worn abroad. This long overdress is made of dull, dusky shades, and brightened by bright colored ribbons. The front of the garment is close fitting, straight, and fastened by a single row of buttons, or else it is made with a waistcoat that is richly embroidered, and invariably trimmed with a jabot of lace. The back is almost patchly with its many long narrow forms, that have seams beginning on the shoulders, and ending low on the tournure, giving the fashionable appearance of slenderness. The skirt is draped very low on the lower skirt, and does not obtrude itself by elaborate proportions. Many of these are made of Oriental fabrics, brought into notice since the Prince of Wales' visit to India. Among other Eastern goods, are scarfs of India silk, draped as overskirts. Some of these are the plain twilled silk we are used to seeing, while others have a crape-like finish, and are wrought all over with vari-colored silks to represent flowers, birds, and in some instances Japanese designs. There is a decided fancy for these scarf draperies on skirts; not only in silks, but in laces.

French modistes now drape wide lace across the front of evening and bridal dresses, instead of using it for flounces. Small squares of silks for shawls and fichus are also imported from the far East. They are worn tied loosely around the neck as half handkerchiefs, or else they are lapped across the bosom in fichu style. They are made of different colors, richly fringed, or else edged with embroidery and lace.

Worth has composed some costumes of gay Scotch tartans, which have been shown and are to be worn by some of our belles. One has an underskirt of bottle green velvet, with an overdress of soft thick tartan silk. The overdress has a Breton basque, with velvet vest fastened by pearl buttons, and trimmed with a jabot. The black and white shepherd's plaid is also made up over green or blue velvet skirts, and the material is cut in such a way that all the breadths are bias, making the checks seem elongated. The trimming is a vest, cuffs, collar, pocket, and wide bias bands of velvet like that of the skirt.

It is predicted that jet is to be revived this fall; as yet it is too early in the season to speak positively about how popular it will become.

The fashion of facing bows, cuffs, and headings of flounces with a contrasting color is very popular again, Scarlet and cream are the favorite colors for such pipings and facings, and the more quaint the contrast the more stylish it is. Thus there are bottle green dresses faced with cream color, navy blue with cardinal red. The two colors are always repeated in the bonnet or hat, and the white linen

collars and cuffs are widely bound with scarlet, blue, or cream color.

Catogon nets, in which the loosely braided Catogon loop of hair hangs, are being worn. The net is of silk braid the color of the hair, trimmed with an Alsacian bow of ribbon that matches the toilet.

Among novelties, we notice croquet studs for collars and cuffs; the first of these represented mallets, and they became so popular that a second style has been introduced representing a lawn tennis. They are manufactured in bright and oxidized silver and in silver gilt, and for young ladies who play the fashionable game they are very appropriate. The Suez clasp is another seasonable novelty. It is in. tended for either a lace scarf or bonnet strings, and has the advantage of the omission of the usual pin as a medium for fastening, a sliding clasp being the cleverly-contrived substitute. By this arrangement there is no destruction of the material which the clasp holds, which cannot be said of continual pinning.

We have several times spoken of the important point pockets take in a lady's toilet. There are now pockets which occupy the entire length of the skirt, from the belt to the hem that borders it. To comprehend this style of ornament, you should imagine a plaited band generally made of the same plain shade as the skirt; this band, measuring when plaited four or five inches in width, crosses all the trimmings, and ascends to the ordinary height of the pockets, where it forms the pocket proper, which is ornamented and bedecked in every way conceiva ble with ruches and bows of ribbon tied in the most capacious manner. Another style is when the costume is composed of two shades to have the pocket of the darker shade, and connected with the part of the bodice that is underneath the arm, thus dietating that this part shall be of the same material as the pocket, and not like the rest of the bodice.

Another novelty that promises to create a furore is to trim dresses from the throat to the hem of the skirt, together with the sleeves, pockets, revers, etc., with very small, round, flat metal buttons; these are set on in series of four, five, or six rows. The effect is bizarre; but those who fancy it should make haste to wear these buttons while the fashion lasts, for in three months they will be considered extremely ugly. When they are selected of gilt or silver, they make the wearer look like an exhibition of coins.

The fashion of having different sleeves in dresses is carried to evening costumes also, lace sleeves are added to a dressy toilet. The sleeves are made of cream or white lace, similar to the trimming around the square or heart-shaped opening. These sleeves are made by sewing together either strips of insertion or lace borders; they are finished by a lace frilling a little under the elbow. These sleeves give an elegant and youthful finish to the tout ensemble of a demi evening toilet, and are a great comfort to the wearer in a warm and crowded room.

As many of our readers will desire to make up black silk dresses simply for early fall wear, we will describe a good model. A model has the skirt trimmed with two flounces, with headings put on with three gathers. The overskirt forms two tabliers, simulated by two flounces put on with headings, round the edge of the latter; fringe, with tassels and heading of passementerie. The back breadths are added on from the waist; they form two puffs, then fall in a plain square train. Perfectly plain bodice. Plain sleeves, trimmed with a plaiting and fold.

Next month we hope to be able to describe the new fall goods, the opening of which has been slightly delayed owing to our extreme heat. FASHION.