NEW YORK'S DAY.-By the appearance of the immense crowd on the grounds on September 21st, the inhabitants of the Empire State were determined to let Pennsylvania and New Jersey know that New York is a large and populous State. The streets of Philadelphia looked as if some great national holiday were being kept. Within half a mile in every direction of the roads leading to the Centennial grounds, the sidewalks looked as if there was a parade. The cars were jammed with their living freight, and every part that could offer support for the toes of anxious visitors was occupied. The Pennsylvania Railroad alone brought from Jersey City over 225 passenger car loads of human freight, many of the passengers having to occupy the roofs of the cars. About noon a large body of well-drilled policemen from the Empire City paraded through the grounds in solid column, with a fine brass band. They proceeded to the State building and were dismissed. Towards noon the crowds which had been passing to and fro began to be stationary around the building itself, and the not over-polite guards had their hands full in keeping curious visitors out of the reserved rooms, for all were anxious to get in the best possible place to see the governor. Towards 1 o'clock the gaze of all were turned in the direction from which the governor was expected, and the scene was one never to be forgotten. The immense numbers of people who were gathered at this point became so densely packed that they overflowed over the grass-plots, and every available spot was fully occupied, making it even dangerous for those who were on the edge of the railroad.

improve it in this manner." "Indeed," replied the smiling wife. "I had no heart to do it until you gave up drink. I had often thought of it before, but I was persuaded that should I do it some stranger would pluck the roses and eat the fruit. Now, with God's blessing, this cot will be ours, and we and our children may expect to enjoy the produce. We shall pluck the roses and eat the fruit." And they did. Their cottage was known as the prettiest in the neighborhood.-National Grange.

ashions.

NOTICE TO LADY SUBSCRIBERS.

HAVING had frequent applications for the purchase of jewelry, millinery, etc., by ladies living at a distance, the Editress of the Fashion Department will hereafter execute commissions for any who may desire it, with the charge of a small percentage for the time and research required. Spring and autumn bonnets, materials for dresses, jewelry, envelopes, hair-work, worsteds, children's wardrobes, mantillas, and mantelets will be chosen with a view to economy as well as taste; and boxes or packages forwarded by express to any part of the country. For the last, distinct directions must be given.

When goods are ordered, the fashions that prevail here govern the purchase; therefore, no articles will be taken back. When the goods are sent, the transaction must be considered final.

Instructions to be as minute as possible, accompa nied by a note of the height, complexion, and general style of the person, on which much depends in choice.

The publisher of the LADY'S BOOK has no interest in this department, and knows nothing of its transactions; and whether the person sending the order is or is not a subscriber to the LADY'S BOOK, the Fashion Editress does not know.

Orders, accompanied by checks for the proposed expenditure, to be addressed to the care of L. A.

Godey, Esq.

No order will be attended to unless the money is Neither the Editor nor the Publisher will be accountable for losses that may occur in remitting.

The First Brigade Band were upon the veranda of the State Building, and at intervals played some of their finest selections. At 1 o'clock the governor ap. peared in a private carriage, and sitting on his left in the carriage was ex-Governor Bigler, of Pennsylvania. Closely following the carriage of the governor and his party, followed a delegation of the United States Commissioners headed by General J. R. Haw-first received. ley and Commissioner Morrell, of this State. As soon as the governor appeared, he was enthusiastically greeted by the vast multitude, and responded by bowing to the crowds right and left. He immediately entered the State Building, where were assembled his staff and a large number of distinguished guests, and then commenced the general handshaking. It was amusing to hear some of the remarks of those assembled outside. One lady of very pleasing presence remarked that she thought it was a pity that "such a nice looking old man should have lived so long unmarried." The governor's reception was certainly a success as far as numbers and enthusiasm are concerned.

It was evident that the populace of New York State were determined to show to Pennsylvania that their interest in the Centennial Exposition was equal to any State in the Union.

YOUTHFUL BEAUTY.-A clear, smooth skin and a bright complexion has a charin for all. It is obtained by using Laird's Bloom of Youth; it will remove tan, freckles, and all discolorations of the skin. Sold by druggists' everywhere.

WHY SHE PLANTED ROSES.-A blacksmith had in his possession, but under mortgage, a house and a piece of land. Like many others, he was at one time fond of the social glass, but was happily induced by a friend to join the temperance society. About three months after he observed his wife one morning busily engaged in planting rose bushes and fruit trees. "Mary," said he, "I have owned this lot for five years, and yet I have never known you to care to

DESCRIPTION OF STEEL FASHION PLATE. Fig. 1.-Dinner dress of violet silk and matelasse. The underskirt is of the silk which is the darkest shade, trimmed with a plaiting and puff; the overdress is made with a court train in the back; apron front, trimmed with fringe, which apron passes over the back, fastened by a bow. Basque bodice, elbow sleeves.

Fig. 2.-Walking dress of elephant-colored wool damassee. The underskirt is trimmed with a bias band of plaid silk of a darker shade, edged on each side with a narrow plaiting. The polonaise is trimmed with the plaid, and fringe: plaid sleeves. Velvet bonnet to match dress, trimmed with feath

ers.

Fig. 3.-Walking dress of brown silk and matelasse, the underskirt of the silk perfectly plain. Polonaise of matelasse, made very long, and trimmed with bands or Oriental embroidery and fringe. The waist is trimmed to correspond. Bonnet of velvet to match dress, trimmed with feathers.

Fig. 4.-House dress of blue silk; the underskirt plain, the polonaise buttoning over to one side, and trimmed with narrow braid forming stripes, and a knotted fringe; pocket on left side.

Fig. 5.-Evening dress of white illusion, with puff down the back, and train of figured silk. The puffs are fastened by clusters of flowers. Pink silk corset waist; low neck, with bertha and sleeves of illusion. Hair arranged in puffs and curls, with flowers in between.

DESCRIPTION OF EXTENSION SHEET.

FIRST SIDE.

Figs. 1 and 2-Front and back view of house dress for lady, made of navy blue silk. The front of skirt is trimmed with folds of the silk and fringe; the overskirt is draped in the back at one side. Basque bodice, trimmed to correspond.

Fig. 3.-House dress of black silk, made with underskirt and polonaise; it is trimmed with ruffles, trimmed with narrow knife plaitings; the bows and revers of the waist and sash are of black velvet.

Fig. 4.-House dress of brown silk, with overdress of Cashmere. The underskirt is trimmed with plaitings; the polonaise is trimmed with fringe, and ornament down the back, where it is drawn up for looping.

Fig. 5.-Walking suit of myrtle green silk, and worsted matelasse; the trimming is of fringe, bows of ribbon, and bands of silk. Felt hat, trimmed with flowers and velvet.

Fig. 6.-Walking dress of gray and black striped wool goods. The underskirt is trimmed with two plaited flounces; polonaise trimmed with fringe and ribbon bows. Gray felt bonnet, trimmed with a wreath of flowers and velvet.

SECOND SIDE.

Figs. 1 and 2.-Morning robe, front and back. Pale blue Cashmere, trimmed with the new canvas braid. The robe is in the Princesse form, and is buttoned the entire length of the front. Two rows of braid ornament the front, and are carried down the back as bretelles falling on the elongated waist in loops. Pointed full pockets, trimmed with two The robe is fastened the entire rows of braid. length of the front, with large buttons that match the braid in color. Upright collar, with a ruche of The sleeves terminate with cream lace inside. bands of braid.

Figs. 3 and 4.-Front and back view of sleeveless polonaise for young lady, buttoned down the back, made of wool matelasse, and trimmed with wool fringe and galloon.

Fig. 5.-Cloak, with cape, for girl of four years, made of navy blue, cloth.

Fig. 6.-Dress for little girl, made en tablier, with lace and embroidered insertion; the dress is of Nainsook muslin, and a high neck and long-sleeved underwaist is to be worn under it.

Figs. 7 and 8.-Front and back view of Cashmere mantle, with hood, embroidered and trimmed with fringe.

Fig. 9.-Ladies' cloth jacket, trimmed with knotted fringe.

Figs. 10 and 11.-Fashionable collars, made out of white linen, with corners embroidered in colors, and of colored percale, divided by embroidery.

Fig. 12.-Flannel petticoat for little girl of four or five years. The bottom of the petticoat is embroidered with white silk; a tuck is put in the petticoat to be let down after shrinking.

Fig. 13.-Hungarian boot made of kid, with fancy ornamental buttons up the front.

Fig. 14.-Lady's petticoat of fine long-cloth, trimmred with stitched tucks and embroidery.

Fig. 15.-Shoe made of French Cashmere and kid; the bows are faille. Fig. 16 is called the Swede boot, and the material is kid; it fastens at the side with a long row of buttons, the open lacing in front being simulated. Fig 17 shoe of black kid, ornamented at the top with a faille bow.

Fig. 18.-Sailor suit for boy of seven years, made of striped gray tweed, trimmed with bands of blue. Fig. 19.-Dress for girl of five years, made of navy

485

blue and cardinal plaid wool goods. It is made with
one skirt and deep basque bodice, trimmed with
ruffles, and narrow embroidery. Felt hat, trimmed
to correspond.

ON FASHIONS FOR NOVEMBER.

Each

A

As the season advances, the polonaise becomes more and more fashionable. It is without doubt the most fashionable garment, although, of course, many overskirts and cuirass basques are still seen. Many persons prefer them, and there are always handsome dresses from the previous season, which are to be worn for second best costumes. polonaise we see appears to be made longer in front, almost touching the ground, and draped very low down at the back over a skirt which need not be much trimmed, except just around the bottom. pretty and simple model of this style is of myrtle green silk and Cashmere. The silk skirt is quite The Cashmere plain, and shows but very little. polonaise is trimmed around with a very fine knife plaiting of silk of the same color. The front part is quite plain, with one very large square pocket on the right side. This pocket is ornamented with bronzed buttons, and edged with a double gathered silk plaiting, finished with bows of ribbon and ends. The back part of the polonaise is longer than the front, and follows the shape of the trained skirt. It is formed of a plain part on each side, which seems as though buttoned on to the skirt with large bronzed buttons, and dark green silk buttonholes, and a middle part, which is plaited all the way down. This part is slightly caught up, about midway up the skirt, with deep loops of very wide ribbon. The polonaise, if for the street, is finished by a standing collar; if for the house, it is open en chale at the top with very fine silk plaitings, and a jabot of white lace. The sleeves are trimmed around with a double plaiting, and a band and bow of ribbon. Another is of navy blue silk and a blue and gray striped louisine. The underskirt of silk, which shows but very little, is trimmed around with two plaitings; one of gray, and the other of blue. The polonaise is long, and cut square in front, crossing over with two rows of very small blue passementerie buttons, and trimmed at the bottom with deep fringe of gray, headed by dark blue bands. At the back the polonaise is finished into two long square lapels, trimmed in the same way, and caught up and gathered in the middle of the back, where they meet. The bodice is trimmed at the back with dark blue bands, and finished at the top with a small dark blue collar: cravat bow of gray silk. Sleeves of dark blue silk, finished with gray silk and bows.

We appear to be now approaching the commencement of a new style, which is, that the fronts of corsages and polonaises are often made to close at the sides, instead of the middle of front. This style has for some time past been fashionable in Paris. It is quite a change, and suits some ladies remarkably well. Indian and Egyptian materials and trim

mings are much seen. The trimmings consist of wide bands representing hyeroglyphics, which are placed on the edge of skirts, tunics, and jackets. We have seen a great many dresses trimmed with these Oriental bands. At first we thought them very outré looking. Perhaps they are so, only the eye has become accustomed to them, and therefore we are beginning to think them quite pretty. Black, gray, and navy blue dresses look the best with these Oriental trimmings. Navy blue is especially turesque with a wide Oriental edging on polonaise and underskirt. Originality, indeed, seems to be the watchword of the present fashion.

are in the graceful French shape, single breasted, with partly-fitted backs. They do not differ mate rially from those of last winter, except in their added length, and in the preference for those that are straight around instead of having long fronts with short backs. Thirty inches is the average length. The cloths used for these sacques are diagonal fig. ures, those of silk are also popular, the trimming is braid sewed on in several rows, fur bands or feather pic-trimming. The new Dolmans are what are called three-quarters long, and are ample enough to reach half way down the skirts of ladies of average height. They are sloped to fit the figure, and are a more even length all around than they have been; they are made of gray, brown, or black cloth, or Cashmere, and are trimmed with moss trimming and fringe; ribbon loops also form an important part of the trimming of these Dolmans.

Some of the novelties in fringes are truly elegant, and fringes are more than ever the order of the day for fashionable toilets. The Almée fringe, ten or twelve inches deep, forms a scarf tunic over silk skirts in Oriental fashion, and fasten at the side. This fringe is of silk network or of chenille. In black it can be worn over any dress, but it is more stylish to match it to the prevailing color of the toilet.

The new braids are embroidered in camaieu shades, or else with colored flowers. These braids give a very elegant finish to Cashmere and silk toilets. Ribbons are also used in great profusion upon dresses. Shaded ribbons and basketwork are matched to the new toilets the same as the summer ones were, and never within our knowledge has rib. bon formed such an indispensable part of the toilet as it has the past season. Cardinal still remains as popular as it has been, and even those ladies who do not accept it for the principal part of the toilet, adopt it for trimmings and the smaller items of their costume. It is very much used for home wear, and especially of evenings. Even in regular evening costumes the fan is of this deep shade of red, with ebony mounting.

The most novel and distingué way of suspending the fan from the waist is now by a double silk cord which goes around the waist, and is finished with tassels. Ribbons are also prettier and more tasteful than the metal chain, which has now become very common. Two ribbons depend from the waist, and are joined with a bow, under which the fan is fastened with a hook. Another bow is put on at the waist, with a hook underneath to fasten in the seam of the dress.

Bonnets are very different in shape: it is hard for us to accustom ourselves to a bonnet with nothing but a roll of velvet, or a narrow border of crêpe lisse inside the brim, after the immense quantity of face trimming of the past season. They are, however, quaint looking, and to many very becoming. The contrasts of color are very marked, and must be odd in order to be stylish. A navy-blue velvet has ear dinal gros grain facing around the front. The vel vet is put plainly upon the frame. A band of blue ribbon is passed around the crown, and some cardi. nal loops are beneath blue ones, low down behind. The left side of the front is shapely indented and filled in with cardinal loops. A panache of dark blue ostrich tips are held by a bow of feathers near the front. The turban hats with face trimming more nearly resemble bonnets than hats; the favorite are the feather ones before spoken of, but felt and velvet turbans are largely imported, especially in black with cardinal or blue trimmings. Gray fur beaver turbans are trimmed with seal-brown velvet and eut steel ornaments. Others of plain grey felt have gray and cream-colored gros grain ribbons and a panache of gray ostrich feathers. Row after row of gray cable cord is twined around the crown of other gray hats. Sometimes folds of écru corded plush are laid inside the brim. Hats of various shapes and sizes are now almost all covered with large gauze veils, which are wrapped around the head in true Oriental fashion, and give a poetic look to the wearers, as the white veils do the women of Genoa, of whom a writer of note says, "They are all lovely at a distance of a couple of steps."

The fashion of having one's cypher and crest marked or embroidered upon every one of one's belongings, small or great, has now become more general than ever. To speak only of those forming part The fashion of long waisted dresses for children of the toilet-the fan, the gloves, and even the shoes (which we believe is an American one) continues are ornamented with family crests and mottoes. The to be all the fashion for children. We have noticed fashion of fans thus marked with the initials of their a very pretty model for a little girl of three years owners, began last winter. It was introduced by old, of white and blue striped flannel, trimmed with some among the elite of nobility, but now every one cream lace put on plain around the neck, the sleeves has some sort of crest, fancy. or real represented and all the lower edge of the skirt, and plaited upon upon fan, gloves, bouquet holder, etc. A sheaf of the front part and sleeves, which are bound around flowers is embroidered upon the fan, and the initials with blue silk. The back is arranged in flat plaits, and crest are placed in one corner. One may no and the skirt is also plaited behind under a band longer be deceived as to the identity of such or such bound with blue silk. A costume, pretty and sima fair lady, for our elegantes wear of an evening a ple, for a girl of eight years, consists of a skirt of navyvelvet necklet with their initials in gold or in dia- blue Cashmere. Overskirt trimmed with cream-colmonds, and for the daytime clasps for the waistband, ored guipure. Sailor collar and deep cuffs, edged or brooches for the mantle, with their cyphers in with the same. The overskirt is looped up at the enamel, în gold, platina, or old silver finely chiselled. back with a very large bow of the same material, The same devices are repeated upon lockets and but-edged with guipure placed below the waist, and with tons for the corsage.

The new collars are called bibs. They are made of fine white organdy, cut quite straight around the neck, with the front laid in fine plaits and edged with lace. Mantles and long cloaks, as far as can be told this early in the season are going to be very much worn; these consist of long sacques of cloth,

long ends.

Hats for children are mostly of felt, if not of feathers, and vary very slightly in shape from those shown for ladies; they usually match in color the dress with which they are worn, as does also the wrap, or more properly and generally the sacque.

FASHION.

COLGATE & CO.'S

VIOLET TOILET WATER.

$55 $77 1.0. VICKERY, Augusta, Maine. Trees, Plants, Bulds, Fall Price List and

A WEEK to Agents. Samples Free.

Bulb Catalogue GRATIS. Address F. K. PHOENIX, Bloomington Nursery, Ill. THE BEST ENGLISH DICTIONARY,

Webster's Unabridged.

From the Chief Justice of the United States. WASHINGTON, D. C., OCT. 25, 1875.-The book has become indispensable to every student of the English language. A Law Library is not complete without it, and the Courts look to it as of the highest authority in all questions of definition.-MORRISON R. WAITE. Sold by all Booksellers.

The Autumn No. of Vick's Floral Guide, Containing descriptions of Hyacinths, Tulips, Lilies, and all bulbs and seeds for Fall Planting in the Garden, and for Winter Flowers in the House-just published and sent free to all. Address

ANY ONE CAN USE THEM! The most remarkable things about the celebrated LEAMON'S ANILINE DYES, are the ease with which they are used and the brilliancy and permanence of the colors obtained. At the same time any shade can be made by using more or less of the Dye, and by combining different Dyes, any color that can possi- for 15 cts. Samples for stamp. bly be wanted. By their use Ladies can most easily practice economy, and still have everything as nice

JAMES VICK, Rochester, N. Y. ISITING CARDS. 50 fine white with name neatly printed sent free for 20 cts.: 100 for 35 cts. To introduce my cards, will send 20 "mixed," including snowflake, damask, etc.,

all though bought new. Give them a trial. Sold by DEAFNESS RELIEVED, NO Medicine. Book

Druggists.

Prettiest Household

free. G. J. Wood, Madison, Ind.

Journals in U. S.

Gems of Beauty! Ladies! Young Folks! Just the Papers for You!

SEND 15 CTS FOR TRIAL TRIP THREE MONTHS.

The Ladies' Floral Cabinet

AND PICTORIAL HOME COMPANION.

A perfect beauty. Full of charming stories, pictures, and reading. Devoted to Housekeeping, Household Elegancies, Art, Music, Home Pets, Ladies' Fancy Work, Society, Amusements, Flowers, Window Gardening, Cottages, etc. The prettiest Ladies' Paper in America. A perfect Gem.

Wonderfully popular. Ladies all delighted with it.

Price, 35c., 3 months on trial, with 1 Chromo or Steel Plate Engraving.

150.,

44

44 44

2 " without Chromo.

100., Specimen copy. None free. Agents wanted. Get up a Club.

The Little Gem & Young Folks' Favorite.

BEND 10c. FOR TRIAL TRIP THREE MONTHS, The prettiest Paper for the Young Folks in the U. S. Full of pictures, entertaining stories, puzzles, fun, anecdotes, stories, helps to school studies, and hints for self-improvement. Get up a Club. Goes like Fun. All the children want it. Parents! it is the best present you can give your boys and girls.

Price, 30 cents, three months on trial, including pretty chromo, "Mischief;" 3 months without chromo, 10c. Specimen copy, 5 cents.

HOUSEHOLD ELEGANCIES.-a splendid new book, devoted to a multitude of topic of Household Art, Taste and Fancy Work, Transparencies, Leaf Work, Worsted Work, Work Boxes, Baskets, Wax Flowers, Fret Sawing, Picture Frames, Wall Pockets, Paintings, Straw Work, Hair Work, Bead Work,, etc. etc. Over 300 pages, 250 engravings. A charming gift to any friend. Price $1.50 by mail, post-paid. WINDOW GARDENING.-a standard book, superbly illustrated, devoted to the culture of Plants, Bulbs, and Flowers, for in-doors. Has handsome designs of Hanging Baskets, Flowers, and Parlor Decorations. 250 engravings. Price, $1.50 by mail.

LADIES' FANCY WORK.-Just published. A charming book, devoted to Feather Work, Paper Flowers, Fire Screens, Shrines, Rustic Pictures, a charming series of designs for Easter Crosses, Straw Ornaments, Shell Flowers and Shell Work, Bead, Mosaic, and Fish-Scale Embroidery, Hair Work and CardBoard Ornaments, Cottage Foot Rests, Window Garden Decorations, Crochet Work, Designs in Embroidery, and an immense variety of other Fancy Work to delight all lovers of Household Art and Recreation. Price, $1.50.

All above for sale by Booksellers everywhere, or sent by mail on receipt of price.

Address HENRY T. WILLIAMS, Publisher, 46 Beekman Street, New York.

N. B.-Please state where you saw this advertisement.

EXTRA NOTICE.

Having a few copies remaining on hand of the following popular Chromos, we will furnish them to our subscribers and their friends at the low prices given below, and pay the postage: