34 tion among the Greek people, and what can be done to help them in their intellectual and moral regeneration.

POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY ROUTE PURSUED.

II. A brief explanation of the political geography of that part of Greece, through which we travelled, is necessary to a clear understanding of our route. Referring to the Map, (the outline of which is taken from one recently published by Lapie, the French geographer,) the reader will observe the Peloponnesus divided into seven provinces. These divisions were made by the present Greek government; and as they bear the names of the ancient states, so they are designed to embrace nearly the same territory. The islands in the Ægean sea, which are embraced by the map, are nearly all that belong to the Greek government, according to the last Protocol. Euboea may be viewed in close connection with continental Greece. The large group of islands to the southwest, are the Cyclades, which are divided into three provinces, or departments, called Northern, Central, and Southern. The islands which lie in the gulf of Ægina, and round the shores of the Argolic peninsula, form another province, called the Western Sporades. The Ionian Islands, except the lit tle island of Paxo, are to be seen along the southern and western shores of Greece.

III. I shall now state, in few words, how much of this interesting country fell under our observation. We first visited five of the Ionian Islands-Corfu, Santa Maura, Cefalonia, Ithaca, and Zante. Then, crossing over to the Peloponnesus, we landed at Clarentsa, in Elis, from whence we traversed the whole northern coast, through Achaia, to Corinth. From thence we made excursions to the ancient Sicyon, and to the plain where the Nemean games were celebrated, towards Phlius, or St. George-then crossed the isthmus of Corinth-visited the islands of Ægina, Poros, Hydra, and Spetsæ-crossed the southern extremity of Argolistravelled from Epidaurus to Nauplion and Argos, in the

(k) Argolis extends to the northern shore and embraces the isthmus of Corinth; Achaia reaches somewhat farther south than it did in ancient times; and Messenia forms two provinces.

centre of that province-crossed the Parthenian ridge to Tripolitsa, in Arcadia-went northward, for the most part over a series of narrow, but beautiful and well cultivated plains, to Calabryta, in Achaia-thence to the great convent of Megaspeleon-then, south-westward, across mount Erymanthus, down to Lala, and the celebrated Olympia, in Elis-then ascending the Alpheus, and again entering Arcadia, we visited Demetsana and Carytæna; and, crossing the Alpheus, and traversing the northern and western sides of the Nomian mountains, descended to a town on the western shore, in Upper Messenia, called Arkadia. We then proceeded southward, to Navarino, and Mothone-crossed the southern extremity of Upper Messenia, to Corone-and while one of us went by water direct to Calamata, in Lower Messenia, the other took a circuit round the head of the gulf. We then ascended together on the western side of mount Taygetus towards the province of Arcadia, which we entered from the south, across the connecting ridge between Taygetus and Lycæus, and came to Leontari, which commands a view of the plain of Megalopolis. Then we descended the vale of Sparta, east of Taygetus, and came to Mistras, in Lacedæmon, the chief town in Laconia. Continuing this southern route, we visited Marathonesi, in Mane; and crossing the gulf and the southern extremity of Laconia, we spent part of a day on the singular island of Monembasia, from whence we took passage for the island of Ægina.

After remaining there a few days to recruit, we sailed for the Cyclades, and visited Syra, Tenos, Andros, Myconos, and Delos; then proceeded to Smyrna, in Asia Minor, where we arrived in August. From thence we returned to Malta.

Our observations were, therefore, extended over most of the Ionian Islands, and over the Peloponnesus, the Western Sporades, and the Northern Cyclades. Athens was in possession of the Turks, and blockaded by the Greeks, and continental Greece generally was in a very unsettled state.

36

PLAN OF THE WORK.

IV. The plan of this work is sufficiently explained by the table of contents. The reason for placing the results of our inquiries in the Ionian Islands, after those relating to liberated Greece, is stated at p. 166: it will be recollected, however, that the Septinsular Republic was the first explored.

Mr. Smith had an equal agency with myself in collecting the materials, of which Part 1st is composed, together with those of the first three chapters of Part 2d; and I remember, with gratitude and affection, the kind and efficient aid, which I received from him in every period of our tour, and after it was completed. The vocabulary of names of places, in the appendix, was compiled by him from the Greek government Gazette. He also took the bearings of places, which are either given, or referred to, in the appendix; and I have an itinerary, taken from his notes, of which I give an abstract.

The reader is referred to the geographical nomenclature in the appendix for the rules, which have governed our orthography, in respect to the names of places in Greece.

Should any of my Greek friends discover inaccuracies in this volume, I hope they will do me the justice to believe, that I have been anxious to give as favorable a view of their nation, as a regard for historical faithfulness would allow; and I shall esteem it a mark of favor to be corrected in any matters, with regard to which I may have erred. The strong desire of my heart is, that this volume may increase the respect, which is felt by my countrymen for the Greek people, and the deep concern they have hitherto manifested in the prosperity and happiness of Greece. If it does, I shall be rewarded for the labor it has cost me. I have no pecuniary interest in its sale. The profits arising from thence will go to multiply books of instruction for the youth in Grecian schools.

PART FIRST.

NARRATIVE OF THE TOUR:

INCLUDING OBSERVATIONS UPON THE MORE INTERESTING LOCALITIES AND SCENERY; UPON THE SOIL, AGRICULTURE, AND PRODUCTIONS; THE EFFECTS OF WAR ON THE TOWNS, VILLAGES, AND PLANTATIONS; AND THE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE INHAB

ITANTS.

CHAPTER I.

THE PELOPONNESUS.

Enter the province of ELIS-Clarentsa-Chloumoutsi castle-Plain of ElisManner of travelling-Roads-From Clarentsa to Ali Chelebi-A khan-Enter the province of ACHAIA-Pastoral life-Palæo-Achaia-Church of St. Andrew -Patras-Profanation of the Sabbath-From Patras to Bostitsa--Scene of wretchedness-Hospitable reception-Domestic employments-Bostitsa-Ancient republic of Achaia-From Bostitsa to Xilocastron-Remarks on the plains along the northern coast-Unexpected meeting-Enter the province of ARGOLIS-Plain of Corinth-Arrival at the city.

On the 15th of April 1829, Mr. Smith and myself embarked at Zante, the most fertile and beautiful of the Ionian Islands, for the opposite coast of Greece. The distance is not great; but, the wind dying away, night overtook us in our open boat, before we were far advanced. Happily each of us, while at Zante, had procured a capote that convenient substitute to the Greek

38

ENTER THE PELOPONNESUS.

for house and bed. This is a large, shaggy outer garment, thick and heavy, made of coarse wool, with the accompaniment of a hood. Wrapped in this, we were warm all night, notwithstanding the copious dew. The boatmen, who were Greeks, rowed until morning, and cheered their labors by some of their national songs.

In the morning we were near the Grecian coast, and a gentle breeze relieved the labors of the oar. We took our repast with gratitude for being at last permitted to enter the principal field of our inquiries, and that field the PELOPONNESUS. Never was a morning more bland and charming, nor the sea more smooth. We sat looking at the land as the sun advanced above the mountains of Achaia, and thought of the long political and moral night, which had covered the country, but was now beginning to break away.

At 9 we entered the harbor of Clarentsa, which, like most of the ports on the southern shore of the gulf, is too much exposed to the north wind to be safe at all seasons. Near the modern village, on the cape west of the harbor, are ruins. Here anciently stood Cyllene, the port of Elis, where the expatriated Messenians rendezvoused before sailing to found Messina in Sicily. This place, when the eastern empire was overrun by the western nations, gave name to a Greek duchy, from which the English dukes of Clarence derive their title. Under the Venetians, Clarentsa was a flourishing port. But in later years, Gastoune being the capital of the province, trade has been attracted to Pyrgos, a port in that neighborhood; so that, in 1810, according to the report of a traveller, Clarentsa contained only a customhouse and two cottages. We found about 200 inhabitants, who had all been apparently reduced, by war, poverty, and disease, to the extreme of misery-a part

(a) This celebrated name may be considered as restored to that part of the Grecian territory, which, for 700 years, has been called the Morea; since it is that which is used by the Greek government in all its official acts and documents. Indeed the Greeks are endeavoring to restore the ancient names to many parts of their country; and why should we refuse our aid in giving them currency? I shall not restrict myself, however, to the use of the ancient name of the peninsula.