ENTER ARCADIA.

X

77

forming a part of Argolis. Crossing this valley, we are conducted, by a steep, zigzag pathway, up a long, narrow ravine beneath threatening precipices, to the top of the Parthenion ridge. This mountain was the boundary between Argolis and Arcadia, and it still retains its ancient name. It forms a continuous chain with the mountains on the eastern side of Laconia. The pass we now ascend is in some places impressively wild, and must be easy of defence against an enemy coming from the eastward.

(x) Paus. B. 2, c. 24.

7*

CHAPTER III.

THE PELOPONNESUS.

Province of ARCADIA-First appearance of Arcadia-A Grecian lady-Plain of Tegea-Tripolitsa-Gipsies-School-Route to Calabryta-Plain of Mantinea -Subterranean passages for water-Plain of Orchomenus-Plain of DaraBranch of the Ladon-Beautiful glen-Another branch of the Ladon and charming plain-Elevated sites of villages-Romantic dell-Plain of Catsanes-Manner of ploughing and irrigating the ground and cultivating Indian ccrn-Ascend to the plain of Soudena-Southern limits of the modern ACHAIA -One of the capitani-Influence of elevation on climate-Magnificent scene--Calabryta-Route to the Convent of Megaspeleon-Description of the Convent, with its recent history-Plains on the river of Calabryta-Extent of arable ground-Ascent of mount Erymanthus-Valley of the ErymanthusPsophis-Enter ELIS again-Dibris-New aspect of the country.

Entering Arcadia in the most favorable season of the year, (the month of June,) our first introduction made impressions upon our minds according well with its ancient celebrity; and these impressions were sustained by a more perfect acquaintance. After climbing mountains for many hours, we had looked forward for a corresponding descent on reaching the top of Parthenium. But, to our surprise, we found ourselves just on the edge of a verdant plain, not less than 2,000 feet above the level of the sea:a it was the plain of Tegea. We entered near its eastern end, almost opposite the little village of Bretsoba. The heights around, as viewed from the plain, seemed to be only hills; but a peculiar, naked aspect shewed that they were in fact the summits of mountains. Of our elevation we had another evidence in the change of climate. In the morning, the wheat was lying on the threshing floors of Argos, and the grass was parched and withering on the neighboring

(a) Tripolitsa is about 680 metres, or 2,225 feet.-Gr. Gazette.

FIRST APPEARANCE OF ARCADIA.

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plain: here, at night, the wheat was scarcely out of the blossom, and fresh verdure covered the ground. A raw wind, too, sunk the thermometer to 58 degrees, while at Argos it was probably at 70 degrees. In fact, the snow often lies deep on this plain for successive days in winter, and the mountains are covered with it as late as the month of March or April.

Were it not for our tent, we should have been poorly lodged at night; for it rained, and the wife of a rich Greek of Calamata, with her numerous train, occupied the khan, the only house in the vicinity. She had passed us during the afternoon, arrayed in a rich and showy dress, and riding a spirited white horse of noble appearance, which she managed with admirable self-possession and skill. Her two children were carried each by a woman on horseback. One was an unweaned babe, and we overtook her in the Parthenion pass, while she was nursing the little creature upon the ground.

The next morning was serene. Almost the only clouds were hovering mysteriously on distant summits. The air was bracing, and cheering to the spirits, like many of our own mornings in June and we pleased ourselves by tracing resemblances to our beloved NewEngland. My companion had spent several years in the Mediterranean, had travelled in Egypt and Palestine, and climbed the heights of Lebanon; but without having seen the white clover, so common in our NewEngland pastures. It covered this Arcadian plain; and that, with a few yellow spires of the mullen blossom among the rocks, threw him into a revery, in which I found he was living over again the days of childhood, when, with a basket on his arm, he used to wander over the hills of Connecticut gathering these humble ornaments of a New-England spring. My own ear was at the same time arrested by the distant notes of a shepherd's pipe, all in unison with the sensations of my mind.

The direction of the plain is nearly east and west. Our path lay between its north side, and the empty bed

of a stream, which conducts the superfluous waters of winter into a subterraneous chasm near Bretsoba. Two little villages stand on the hill at our right; but this hill ceases after an hour, and the plain, extending to the north, unites with that of Mantinea. On the south it widens very much and becomes undulating. Our course now turns northwestward over the plain, and after two hours more we enter the ruins of Tripolitsa, the Turkish capital of the Morea. The plain, therefore, in the direction we took, cannot be less than nine miles, and it is almost wholly given over to pasturage. The ruins of the ancient Tegea we did not see: they are said to be an hour east of Tripolitsa.

Tripolitsa is situated on the northwestern edge of the plain. A range of hills rises just back of it extending to the northeast, and almost separating the Tegean and Mantinean plains. Still back of them are the high peaks of Alonistena, (probably the ancient Alesion,) one of which retained some snow. The city contained about 4,500 houses before the war, of which half were Turkish. Here was the general residence of the Pasha of the Morea, and the part that was occupied by his seraglio is said now to be held in great abhorrence by the neighboring peasantry. The city was enclosed by a wall of Albanian origin, built less than a century ago. Not long after the revolution commenced, when Tripolitsa was thronged with Turks and Jews, fled thither from almost all the unfortified parts of the Morea, it was taken and sacked by the Greeks. A regard for their character, and for human nature itself, inspires a wish to draw a veil over that horrid scene, which was stained with all the enormities of a servile war. The town was immediately afterwards filled, it is said, with a Greek population of nearly 30,000 souls, all of whom fled with the greatest precipitation on the approach of Ibrahim, the Egyptian pasha, in 1825. He made it a military depot, and kept possession until February 1828. Then, coming in person from the fortresses of Messenia, with his ferocious mind not yet quieted after the destruction

of his fleet at Navarino, he razed it to the ground. Taking an axe he struck the first blow with his own hand. The wall was levelled all around to within three or four feet of the ground, the citadel was blown up, and mosques, churches, khans, and other public buildings were demolished. Having done this as a regular work by his army, and a part of it to the sound of the drum, he made a solemn prayer accompanied with discharge of guns, and then, setting fire to all that was combustible, left the place a shapeless mass of ruins. Much in this state we found it. Houses had indeed been built up in rude style, and there were about 800 families, but the town was more completely demolished than any other we visited: nor will it be likely ever to regain its former consequence. The larger cities will be on the coast, where commerce may afford employment to crowds; and the agricultural population of the interior, if protected by a kind and efficient government, will no longer be attracted to walled towns, but will dwell every man on or near his own plantation.

The first thing we did on entering the place was to call on Alexios Blachopoulos, the extraordinary commissioner of the province of Arcadia, to whom we showed our letter from the government. The day was a festa, and we found him in the midst of company, dressed in the Grecian manner, and seated a la Turque. After a few moments we went to our lodgings, which he had ordered an attendant to provide. The streets were thronged with people in their gayest dresses, business and care seemed to be laid aside for the day, and all looked contented and happy notwithstanding the apparent infelicity of their circumstances. During the day, a group was dancing among the ruins, jumping and whirling with joined hands round a common centre, all to the sound of music. The musicians were three Gipsies, dark-looking fellows, with a peculiar physiognomy. In the evening we heard them playing a most lively air.

(b) Greek Gazette.