314

BRYANT'S OVERLAND JOURNEY TO CALIFORNIA.

to great deception. The atmosphere frequently seems to act as a magnifier; so much so that I have often seen a raven, perched upon a low shrub or an undulation of the plain, answering to the outlines of a man on horseback. But this object was so enormously large, considering its apparent distance, and its movement forward, parallel with ours, so distinct, that it greatly excited our wonder and curiosity.

About two o'clock, P. M., we discovered, through the smoky vapor, the dim outlines of the mountains before us, at the foot of which was to terminate our day's march, if we were so fortunate as to reach it. But still we were a long and weary distance from it, and from the water and grass' which we expected to find there. A cloud rose soon afterward, from the south, accompanied by several distant peals of thunder, and a furious wind making across the plain, and filling the whole atmosphere around us with fine particles of salt, drifted it in heaps like the newly-fallen snow. Our eyes became nearly blinded and our throats choked with the saline matter, and the very air we breathed tasted of salt.

During the subsidence of this tempest, there appeared upon the plain one of the most extraordinary phenomena, I dare to assert, ever witnessed. Diagonally in point, to the right-our course being west-there appeared the figures of a number of men and horses, some fifteen or twenty. Some of these figures were mounted and others dismounted; and appeared to be marching on foot. Their faces and the heads of their horses were turned toward us, and at first they appeared as if they were rushing down upon us. Their apparent distance, judging from the horizon, was from three to five miles; but their size was not correspondent, for they seemed nearly as large as our own bodies, and consequently were of gigantic stature. At the first view I supposed them to be a small party of Indians-probably the Utahs— marching from the opposite side of the plain. But this seemed scarcely probable, as no hunting or war-party would be likely to take this route. I called to some of our party nearest me to hasten forward, as there were men in front coming toward us. Very soon the fifteen or twenty figures were multiplied into three or four hundred, and appeared to be marching forward with the greatest action and speed. I then conjectured that they might be Captain Fremont and his party, with others from California, returning to the United States by this route, although they seemed to be too numerous even for this. I spoke to the one who was nearest to me, and asked him if he noticed the figures of men and horses in front? He answered that he did, and that he had observed the same appearances several times previously, but that they had disappeared, and he believed them to be optical illusions, similar to the mirage. It was then, for the first time, so perfect was the deception, that I conjectured the probable fact these figures were the reflection of our own images by the atmosphere, filled as it was by the fine particles of crystallized matter, or by the distant horizon covered by the same substance. This induced a more minute observation of the phenomenon, in order to detect the deception, if such it were. I noticed a single figure, apparently in front, in advance of all others, and was struck with its likeness to myself. Its motions, too, I thought, were the same as mine. To test the hypothesis above

suggested, I wheeled suddenly around, at the same time stretching my arms out their full length, and turned my face sideway, to notice the movements of this figure. It went through precisely the same motions. I then marched deliberately, and with long strides, several paces; the figure did the same. To test it more thoroughly, I repeated the experiment, and with the same result. The fact was clear. But it was more verified still, for the whole array of this numerous shadowy host, in the course of an hour, melted entirely away, and was seen no more. The phenomenon, however, explained and gave the history of the gigantic specters which appeared and disappeared so mysteriously at an early hour of the day. The figures were our own shadows, produced and re-produced by the mirror-like composition impregnating the atmosphere and covering the plain. I cannot here more particularly explain or refer to the subject. But this phantom population, springing out of the ground, as it were, and arraying itself before us as we traversed this dreary and heaven-condemned waste, although we were entirely convinced of the cause of the apparition, excited those supernatural emotions so natural to all mankind."

After a severe day's ride of seventeen hours, without water or refreshment, they arrived at a small fertile spot on the western borders of the plain. With considerable search they found an abundant spring, and having quenched their thirst, spread their blankets, and addressed themselves to sleep, too much fatigued to prepare their food, having traveled seventy miles since mounting in the morning, a feat never before performed in the same time, the two other instances in which it had been accomplished, each occupying two days.

The following day they remained in camp for the benefit of their animals. They were now approaching the Sierra Nevada, and for several successive days their way lay through a mountainous region, interspersed with beautiful valleys, from which they were continually emerging, by climbing the rocky crests that obstructed their way. Mr. Bryant remarks, that nothing can exceed the grandeur and sublimity of these magnificent valleys.

By this time their animals were becoming jaded and worn down, and their provisions so reduced, that a daily allowance of food became necessary. They frequently met with parties of the Digger Indians, but from them they were unable to obtain anything eatable. An occasional antelope, or wild bird, would sometimes fall in their path, but starvation began to stare them in the face. On the 9th, when near St. Mary's river, they saw a party of ten or fifteen men, marching toward the north, mounted on mules and horses, and hastened to intercept them. The strangers soon discovered them, and halted for their approach. It was impossible, at a distance, to tell to what part of the human race they belonged, but what was the joy of each, to discover in the other, white men, and speaking the same language. They clasped hands, and saluted one another like brothers in a foreign land, who had been long parted. The strangers were from the Willammette Valley, in Oregon, and had left their home on the 10th of May, to discover a better wagon route to Oregon by the way of St. Mary's river. From them they learned that a train of emigrant wagons were four or five days in advance. They therefore

pushed forward with all the energy that their worn and enfeebled condition would permit. But it was not until the 18th, that they were able to come up with them. It proved to be the party of Messrs. Craig and Stanley, from Missouri, who generously furnished them with a supply of flour and bacon, which they hoped would suffice them till they reached the settlements.

Resuming their march on the 19th, they passed the Sink of St. Mary's, and encamped some miles beyond it, where there was neither grass nor water. Resting but a few hours, they pushed forward, and reached the Truckee river about mid-day of the 20th, where they were joined by the party of Messrs. Craig and Stanley. They remained here in camp the following day, and then resumed their march down the valley of the river, which they were obliged frequently to leave, and after climbing hill and mountain, to avoid obstructions, return again to its fertile borders. On the 25th, they struck Truckee Lake, the source or head of Truckee river, near which they found a log-house, the scene of terrible disasters, which befell a party of emigrants who arrived a few months after them, and were overtaken by the early storms of winter.

On the 26th of August, they commenced ascending the ridge of Sierra Nevada, which, for the grand, beautiful, and picturesque, may well compare with the Alps. No pen can ever describe the ever-changing beauty and sublimity of the scenery, and the happiest effort of the pencil of the artist can but feebly delineate its awful grandeur. Climbing and descending these mountains, with whose grandeur the emigrants were forcibly impressed, they found themselves in the Uber valley. Crossing this, and threading ravines, fording streams, and encamping amid luxuriant vegetation, the adventurers began to realize that they were, indeed, approaching their destined haven, and that their long and weary march was soon to terminate. They struck Bear river the next day, where they consumed the last of their provisions. The feet of the mules had become sore, and they moved painfully, and, of course, very slow. For the two following days they were without food, but pushed on with the resolute energy that had so far marked their journey.

On the 30th of August, they reached the Sacramento, and, about noon, were at the residence of Mr. Johnson, the first point of civilization on the frontier. On the succeeding day, but one, which was the first of Autumn, they arrived at Sutter's Fort, where they found comfortable quarters, and felt thankful that their toils and privations, in their overland journey to California of nearly four months' duration, were terminated.

HISTORICAL Sketch of England-Reflections natural to an American on leaving for England -the Ocean-Portsmouth-Petty Annoyances-English Rail-cars-London-Bibacious indulgences-Gog and Magog-Guildhall-City Police Cheapside-St. Paul's-its Monaments-Temple-bar-the Strand-Narrow limits of London proper Houses of Parisment Magnificence of the City-Westminster Abbey-Anecdote of a Vermonter-Visit to the House of Lords-Lord Brougham-Affair at Slievegamon-Duke of WellingtonAppearance of the English Nobility-English bluntness-Buckingham Palace--Flunky spirit of the Humbler classes--Hyde Park-Equestrianism-London Omnibuses.

ENGLAND, that great nation, upon whose possessions the sun never sets, and whose tributary countries and people are more numerous than Rome in the days of her greatest splendor could boast, occupies the southern part of an island, which, with Scotland, is known as Great Britain. The original inhabitants were a Celtic tribe, but such has been the result of numerous

This article is written by, and details the experiences of, H***** D**, Esq., an early friend and schoolmate.-H. H.

early conquests, that nowhere in England can be found a town, or even a hamlet, of this ancient lineage. In the principality of Wales, however, the primitive race still flourishes, and enables us to form tolerably correct notions of the painted barbarians, whose courage was praised by Cæsar, and whose beauty was admired by Roman maidens. Little is known of this people till the ambition of the great Roman conqueror induced Julius Cæsar, fiftyfive years before the birth of Christ, to attempt its conquest. His success was of little service to his country, as tin was the only valuable product of the island, which, from its nature, could be the source of no considerable revenue. The habits and manners of the aborigines singularly resembled those of our own native Indians. Though a brave and hardy people, they could not withstand the disciplined valor of Roman cohorts, and for nearly four hundred years, the "mistress of the world" held this island as the ultima thule of her western possessions. Constantine the Great, the first Christian emperor of Rome, was a native of Great Britain, and under his reign Christianity was preached to the inhabitants, just emerging from barbarism. The final departure of the Romans left the Britons at the mercy of predatory bands of Picts and Scots, whose home lay in the north part of the island. To resist their overwhelming numbers, the Saxons, a warlike nation of Germany, were called to the aid of the Britons, but when their joint efforts had expelled the common enemy, the Saxons, finding the country suited to their wants, refused to depart, and succeeded in making good their pretensions to the soil. Hengist and Horsa, the leaders of the Saxon band, everywhere triumphed, and Hengist became the first Saxon King of Kent. But it was not till the year 519 that the western part of the province was subdued; nor till the year 585 that the Saxon Heptarchy, or the division of their conquest into seven kingdoms, each with its separate king, was established. The Saxons, being Pagans, and the Britons, Christians, the triumph of the former was a triumph of a false over the true faith. The mission of St. Augustin, begun in the year 596, and authorized by Pope Gregory, whose interest in the distant island had been powerfully excited by the beauty of some English slaves exposed for sale in the market-place of Rome, was eminently successful. From the seventh century downward, Christianity may be regarded as the national faith of the whole island.

The two centuries, during which the heptarchy extended, was a period of almost constant intestine war and confusion. Egbert, king of Wessex, partly by conquest, and partly by inheritance, became the first monarch of all England, and as such was solemnly crowned at Winchester in the year 800.

It is from this period that the name, England, and the introduction of the Saxon language, from which our own is chiefly derived, take their date. Englishmen are accustomed to regard the reign of Egbert's grandson, the renowned Alfred, as the beginning of the greatness and grandeur of their country. To him belongs the honor of establishing trial by jury, the municipal organization of towns, and a regular militia. He first substituted stone and brick for wood, in the erection of dwellings. The endowment of a university at Oxford, witnesses to his regard for learning. The founding of the British navy testifies to his wisdom and his patriotism.

Poet and historian,