subjoined paragraph, though relating to a single traveller alone, at Bogota : Having some spare time, previous to the period at which I expected the vessel destined for the pearl fishery to arrive, I determined to employ it usefully, in regaining the sea-coast by the little frequented route of Chocó, instead of going by the more direct way of Maracaybo-hoping to develope some of the riches of the Andes. I was delayed some time by the difficulty of procuring money, no one being inclined to take bills either on Jamaica or London, not even at a large discount-thinking it quite in moderation to demand fifty per cent. discount. This state of things cannot, however, long continue, for some of the principal merchants appear desirous of fixing a regular rate of exchange; and I have no doubt but that when a new loan is raised in England, and public credit restored, money will be as easily procured for bills of exchange here as in any other part of the world." If this grievance applies so heavily to an individual, what must it do towards crippling the commerce of a country? We have only to add on these topics, before running systematically over the journal, that the mines are in general very poor in Colombia. Capt. C. speaks of one only, Chocó, as likely to prove productive: of this place his account follows: "From investigations I made, I found that the best mines of Chocó scarcely pay the working now; in consequence, they cannot defray the hire of free negroes, who demand six rials, or three shillings and three pence, per day. As yet the mines have been worked entirely without machinery. They have not even a common pump to draw the water from the pits they make; and to remove a very large stone sometimes requires the whole force of many negroes for three weeks. Did they but know the use of gunpowder to blast the rocks; or had they but proper patent cranes for removing the pieces, and pumps for drawing off the water, the mines might be worked to much greater advantage; but there is not a man of capital in the whole province, who can enter into the expense, or afford to lay out his money for a year. "Platina is found with the gold, and is thus separated from it :A quantity of water and quicksilver is thrown in with the gold-dust, and well mixed, until the whole appears like paste; it is then put into small moulds, and pressed down until it takes a consistent form, when it is turned out and placed in a red-hot iron grating, below which is a basin of water; over the grating is placed a large bowl so as to cover it. The quicksilver is expelled by the heat, and flies to the bowl, which is a species of retort. The platina falls into the water, and the gold remains in a firm state on the grating, and perfectly pure. The mines that are considered worth working, give two pounds of platina to six of gold. There are, however, many neglected mines, that give six and eight ounces of platina for two of gold. The government are now endeavouring to buy up all the platina, and having it sent to Bogotâ, in order, as report states, to make a coinage of it. But as British merchants here offer eight or ten dollars a pound for it, about five-sixths are obtained by them, and smuggled to Jamaica. It is great impolicy that the congress does not entirely do away with the old Spanish system of monopoly; if they would put on a moderate duty, and allow the exportation of gold and platina, they would secure a handsome revenue from it; but as they entirely prohibit the exportation of these metals, the whole is smuggled to Jamaica, and at a moderate rate. No one will send gold-dust to any of the mints, because the government have several times seized what was sent, and only given promissory paper in return. The consequence is, that scarcely a pound of gold-dust remains in Colombia, and hardly a shilling is drawn from the mines of Chocó, towards the exigencies of the state." Captain Cochrane's route from St. Marta to Bogotá, was chiefly up the river Magdelena, by Monpox and Honda, whence he crossed to the capital. From Bogotá he made several excursions to Leiva and other places; and when he finally left it, he changed his course, visited Purification, the mine of Apore, Ibagua, Novita, and descending the river Quito till it discharges itself, and the other rivers which unite with it, into the bay of Chocó, under the name of the Atrato. On his journey up to the capital, we find only three notices deserving of extract: "March 25th.-Rose at daylight, and mounting our horses at seven o'clock, proceeded to Baranquilla, a small village about a league from Solidad, where we passed the day with Mr. Glenn, a merchant from Canada, who had been settled here eight years; a 1825. very intelligent man, and apparently making a fair fortune. I received many useful hints from him; he was of opinion, that after three years' peace the trade of the country would nearly triple. He much approved the idea of steamboats being introduced on the rivers, as a mode of conveyance which he was convinced would pay remarkably well." At Solidad, on the following day "In the evening there was a procession, which consisted of the cross, decorated with white scarves, and brilliantly illuminated with lamps; a large car followed, borne by fourteen men, having on it a figure intended as a representation of our Saviour, with his hands bound, and being scourged by a man dressed in the old Spanish costume, and another man as officer looking on." The Spanish costume used here is a curious trait; but other religious ceremonies, afterwards described, are more characteristic of the manners of the people. Thus, on Good Friday, the 28th, the captain says- "Went to church about eight o'clock in the evening with Colonel Rieux. The curate, a young man, preached with great energy, and violent gesticulations, in a singsong tone. The majority of the audience was women, and the church so excessively crowded, that we could only obtain entrance through the vestry, and might be said to be behind the scenes. Hence we saw a figure, represented on a cross, and intended for our Saviour, which was veiled from the rest of the congregation by a dark curtain. The preacher having arrived at the proper part of his sermon, describing the agonies F of of Christ, stamped his feet, and at the second stamp the sombre veil fell from before the figure, whilst a discharge of cannon without announced the supposed convulsion of nature; and the apparently bleeding figure, surrounded by numerous lights, was suddenly exposed to the general gaze. The effect of all this performance was so successful, that many of the fémales shrieked and fainted. Shortly after, the figure was taken down and carried to a sepulchre, gaily adorned, and having the representation of a Roman sentinel sitting on the top. After the sermon, Colonel Rieux and myself walked into the body of the church, and were immediately presented with long wax tapers, intimating the necessity of joining the procession about to pass through the town, to which we did not object, as it afforded us the opportunity of seeing the whole population of the place, ranged on either side of the streets through which we passed. The beauty of the sex did not appear very conspicuous on this occasion. The procession was also graced by the guard of the sepulchre, dressed in white jackets, blue trowsers covered with black crape, and dark veils concealing the face. They had high conical caps with long feathers hanging over them, which only needed bells to complete the tout ensemble, and to afford a lively representation of Tom Fool's cap. They were armed with lances and swords. A man clothed in a white shroud was performing a penance, which consisted in keeping his arm extended as in the act of offering something contained in a glass, and intended to represent the nauseous liquor presented to our Saviour. I observed that he had a stick passing through his sleeve so as to support his arm. He, as well as the guards, marched backwards with a kind of pantomimic step." Bogotá*, owing to the long conti nuance of the war, is in a sad state -low in wealth, and even in common comforts, the public treasury drained, the male population exhausted, and the remaining inhabitants in a wretched plight. Still, however, there were fetes, feasts, We copy one or two anecdotes of Bolivar. "Bolivar is a good swimmer, an elegant dancer, and fond of music: he is a very pleasant companion at table; neither smokes nor takes snuff, nor does he ever taste spirits. He endeavours to check the flattery with which he is not unfrequently assailed. At a ball which he gave, a lady rendered herself very conspicuous by loading him with obsequious and importunately fulsome adulation. Bolivar at length said to her, in a mild but firm tone: 'Madam, I had previously been informed of your character, and now I perceive it myself. Believe me, a servile spirit recommends itself to no one, and in a lady is highly to be despised.' "The following affords some highly characteristic traits :-At a magnificent public dinner given to Bolivar at Bogotá, one of the company, when called upon for a toast, gave -Should at any time a monarchical government be established in Colombia, may the liberator, Simon Bolivar, be the emperor.' A high-spirited public character, Senor Pépe Paris, then requested permission to give a toast, which being acceded to, he filled his glass, and exclaiming 'Should Bolivar, at any future period, allow himself to be declared emperor, may his blood flow from his heart in the same manner as the wine now does from my glass,' he poured the wine out of his glass upon the floor. Bolivar immediately sprang from his chair, ran to Senor Paris, and most warmly embracing him, exclaimed, If such feelings as those declared by this honourable man shall always animate the breasts of the sons of Colombia, her liberty and independence can never be in danger.””— [The British volunteers who joined him, are now almost all dead: of four or five thousand men, not a hundred remain.] bull-fights, bull-fights, tertulias, rejoicings. Of these we shall sketch a sample or two, as illustrative of what the author saw, and how he tells his story. Our first is a Fete Dieu. "The procession is commenced by preposterous-sized figures of the animals of the country, made of pasteboard, and moved by men withinside. The alligator and gallinazo make conspicuous figures, and contribute much to the entertainment of the mob,-the former opening its enormous jaws and pretending to bite any persons near, and the latter, (whose neck is made twelve feet long,) by means of springs, moves from side to side, making the by-standers scamper about for safety from the attacks of its sharp bill, which sometimes descends with violence on the head of a gaping spectator. Then follow children, strewing flowers before cars drawn by men, in one of which is David, with Goliah's head in his hand; in another Queen Esther: Joseph follows on a superbly caparisoned horse, attended by guards in Roman dresses. The performers in this pageant are all of the best families, and no expense is spared to deck them magnificently with jewels, silk, &c.; and much interest and exertion are made to secure a part in the procession. Indians follow, dancing to flute and tambour, and the whole is closed by soldiers, with their arms and colours reversed." Our next quotation is a feast given by the vice-president. "The troops having marched past, the vice-president led the way to a tent pitched on the review ground by the military officers. We there found refreshments of all kinds, and made an excellent luncheon, the vice-president cautioning us all the time not to eat too much, as we had duty in that way reserved for us both at General Urdineta's tent and his own. After drinking several complimentary toasts to the officers, we went, preceded by the military band, to General Urdineta's tent, where we found an elegant repast laid out, consisting chiefly of poultry, preserves, and sweatmeats. Champagne flew merrily round, and much good humour prevailed. At last the vice-president said we must go and partake of his fare. We accordingly removed to his tent, where beef and mutton were immediately served up to us in the style in which they are cooked by the Llaneros, natives of the plains of Capac and Apure. At the top of the table, before the vice-president, was placed a large dish of Carne con Cuéro, which is beef with the hide on, the hair being cut off as closely as possible; at the bottom, before General Urdineta, was half a sheep, served up in the same manner; and at each corner of the table stood a soldier, with a tremendous long stake thrust through large ribs of beef. "The clergy next advance, bearing the elevated host, at the sight of which all fall on their knees, and remain there until it has passed. Music follows, composed principally of violins and clarionets, playing church music. The prettiest girls of the city walk between two rows of the "This method of serving up priests, some bearing vessels, the top and bottom dishes is reothers, offerings; some incense, markably good; the hide, from others, flower baskets. Young roasting, contracts a little, so as to serve as a dish for the meat, and prevent the gravy from escaping you have then only to carve through the meat down to the skin, and cut it in slices, accompanied by the finest and richest gravy imaginable. I most particularly recommend this to the serious consideration of the aldermen of the city of London. The method of cooking the ribs is by no means bad; they are toasted over the fire, and every one cuts off what he requires; the soldier very politely thrusting the stake across the table with the pending rib, to any one whom he perceives in want of the delicacy under his charge. There are two other dishes peculiar to South America, which I recommend to all epicures, having proved and found them highly palatable. Take a whole sheep or lamb, and having killed the animal, cut the wool off as closely as possible, stuff it with turkeys, fowls, ducks, game, ham, vegetables, &c.; then sew the whole up, and bake it in an oven; when served up there are few who do not cut and come again.' The other dish is a pig, dressed in a similar manner, having the hair scalded off. "Notwithstanding we had eaten two luncheons previously, ample justice was done to the vice-president's feast; patriotic toasts flew round in rapid succession, and were answered by Vivas' from the surrounding multitude." The morals of the Bogotáns are not reported on very favourably. "We generally returned from our equestrian excursion by halfpast six, and then choosing a companion, set off to visit some native family, when the scene was nearly as described in Caraccas,-room The badly lighted, and the ladies all seated together in formal order, in one corner, or at one end of the room, but less addicted to the custom of folding their legs under them than in most other parts of Colombia,-foreigners having laughed the young ladies out of a position so devoid of grace. feet, as well as the head, are generally neatly dressed: the rest of the body is enveloped in a large shawl. I generally managed to break through the stiffness of the party, by inducing some young lady to rise in order to accompany her voice with some national air on the harp or piano-forte; the vacancy caused by her rising was immediately filled up by my companion, whilst I attended the young lady performing; thus all formality and ceremony was destroyed, and good-natured mirth reigned; the young ladies frequently whispering their thanks for separating them from their old grandmammas, as it enabled them to enter more unrestrainedly into conversation. From want of education, and those advantages which the old world possesses (in having books and materials for forming the mind, of which there is here great need,) conversation slackens, and on a repetition of visits you have the same topics every night, argued and re-argued in the same words. This sameness also pervades their music, as they do not play by sight, and would not know a note of music if they had it; the consequence is, that all being retained by the ear, there is no variety, so that a young lady soon exhausts her stock of musical knowledge, and you can only expect a repetition. The women seldom visit each soon other |