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LA BELLE ASSEMBLÉE.
For APRIL, 1809.
EXPLANATION OF THE PRINTS OF FASHION.
No 2.--EVENING DRESS. No. 1.-ALCANTARA HAT AND MANTLE.
A round robe of green velvet, with antique .
boddice, and stomacher of blended gold and These unique and elegaut articles are derived
velvet. Short full sleeve, ornamented u-lafrom the Spauish costume; and in a great de Spanish, to correspond. A plain gold lace gree resembile those worn by the Kuights of placed round the bottom just above the hem, ihe military Order of Alcantara, in that country, and also round the waist. A shade of Paris on their great festivals, &c. It is composed net across the back, edged with gold, and fastof crimson silk, with a rich embroidered bor- ened on the shoulders with a gold or emerald der in gold. The collar is narrow, and meets
brooch. A deep antique lace laid nat round in front of the throat, where it is confined with
the bosom and back, with a drawn tucker. a cordon oi gold, to which is suspended the above. Hair contined in a gold caul behind badge of the Order. The mantle is so disposed and in full curls in front, with the Cleopatra as to expose the right side of the figure, while || diadem of emeralds and gold. Earrings, neck. it entirely couceals the back and adverse side, lace, bracelets, and armlets to corresponda and on the bosom is a rich embroidered star Shoes, amber or while satin. Fau of carved of gold. The mantle is gradually sloped from ivory. An occasional scarf, or shawl, of creamthe throat to its termination, near the bottom coloured or white French silky with gold or of the robe bebind. A deep embroidered cape coloured embroidered body. ornaments the back and shoulders, the square points of which appearing in front, givé a
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS finished relief to the whole. The hat is composed of the same material, edged with a bor
FASHIONS FOR THE SEASON. der the same as the mautle; the crown is round, sitting close to the head, with a band of ALTHOUGH there still remains some little silk and gold cord tastefully blended, and ter indecision of costume amidst our fasbionable minating on the right side with a knot and fair, which generally marks the early spring gold tassel, It is turned up in front with a months, yet is there much subject for remark gold ornament similar to the badge of the || in the seasonable changes which have presented Order. A plume of ostrich, bird-of-paradise, | themselves since our last communication. The or "iber feathers is placed nearly in front, one cloth and velvet mantles and pelisses, trimmed of which, of an unusual length, droops till it with gold and silver lace and furs, are fast meets the left shoulder. The robe woru with | yielding to those formed of sarsuets and shawl. these attractive and novel articles is of white muslins. The former are either of plain or sarsnet, with a pointed drapery border of the figured twills, variously shaded; and the latter jonquille or primrose, or a trimming of Chi are either of the real sudian shawl fabric, or nese floss. The stomacher and other orna of imitations equally rich and beautiful in efments are of pearl. Shues the same as the fect; these are lined througbout with sarsnets mantle with gold rosets. This splendid cos of well coutrasted colours. We have seen tume is particularly well adapted for the some of light-brown, salmon, and cream-coOpera; and, divested of the inantle, also for loured grounds, lined with pale-green, pink, the evening party. This elegant and original and jonquille, and formed in the style of an dress is the composition of Mrs. Villars, Lowct Austrian Hussar clock. The Spanish mantle, Gower-street, Bedford-square.
Cossack pelisse, and Turkish coat, have each No. XLIII.-Vol. VI.
ON THE MOST APPROVED
a large share of fashionable distinction. These, the commencement of the temple, ornamented appropriate habits are alternately orna U with bands of wrought gold, silver, pearl, or mented with trimmings of fancy fuss,--the diamopds, or with coronets, diadems, and chereaux de friezé, formed of narrow ribband, combs of gems corresponding with the other the flat silk braid, and some with gold or silver ornaments, vow universally distinguish this lace. We cannot, however, recommend this species of costume. Flowers in the hair are Jast mentioned decoration as any way consist- not so much worn as is usual at this season. ent for the out-door garment; however splen- The Oriental turban, with a long full end and did the effect as a coup-d'ail, it bestows no infringe, ornamented with a band and crescent dividual advantage, and robs the walking, or' of pearl, is a very elegant and becomiug ornamorning dress, of that appropriate simplicity, ment for such as choose to cover the head in in which consists its chief advantage and ele evening or dinner parties. gance; but fashion, amidst its various wan. The full dress robe, formed of clotb or velvet, derings, will sometimes introduce and sanc- ' is still woru in full dress, though many bave tion that which will, nevertheless, always be already laid them aside for crape over satiu, rejected by persons of a correct taste. But to sarsnets, leuos, muslios, and tissues. Colourreturn to our subject.
ed dresses are so exceedingly fashionable, that We have remarked little variety in the con- a few days since, at a very full and elegant struction of the above-mentioned articles, ex- assembly, it was remarked, there was ouly 'cept the loose Turkish sleeve, which is formed one white dress. The waist is frightfully infull from the shoulder to the wrist, where it is creasing in length, and the corsets in stiffness; cut in a point, and finished with a tassel. The we may thus expect ere long to see the sugarcluse vest, with military or Spanish cloak to loaf shape of our grandmothers revived. The correspond, is seen amidst the general variety. pointed back is distinguishable for its fushionThe demi robe-pelisses are a very useful ar able singularity, and the stomacher is now ticle, and are coustructed so as to wrap from completely of antique dimensions. These dne side entirely round the figure in front, articles, with coloured sarsnets, have a good and meets the other side, with which (by effect when fornied of French net, let in with imperceptible fastenings) it is united, and stripes of correspoudent beading, and trimmed which flows loose from the shoulder to the feet. round with vandyke lace ; the long sleeve to The collar is high aud rounded, the back forun- suit. ed in cross straps, the front laced with cord, or
We observed lately a most attractive dress ornamented a-la-militaire, and the sleeves are
formed of pink Spanish gauze; its form was full, with deep arched cuffs ; it is perhaps im- 'round, with a demi train, and long full siceve. possible to iuvent u style more calculated to It was woru over a white gossamer satiu slip; display a fine figure to advantage. In bounets
a wide antique stomacher of lace (as described and hats there are some changes wortby uf" above), with a deep cuff of scalloped lace, aud remark. The Spartau helmet, formed of the the saine laid Aat round the bottom above the same material as the mantle or pelisse, pos- hem, with the scallop upwards. White satia sesses much dignity and vovelty ; across the || shoes; pearl rosáry and cross; broad bracecrown of them is placed (most becomingly) a
lets of the same, with rich diamond clasps ; a full band of curled feathers. The Jockey hat pearl bandeau round the hair, with a Maltese of straw; the French poke, placed greatly to
cross in the centre of the forehead. Nothing wards one side, and edged and trimined across
can have a more becoming effect thau this the crown with ribband in reversed plaits, or dress is calculated to produce, more particewith variegated Aoss trimmings, with a full llarly on fair women. The generality of dressbunch of duisics or other spring Powers, are
goxos are formed round, with or without very genteel and fashionable.
The small silk drapery; but a few Polish vests, Roman bonnet with arched fronts, formed in faucy | tunics, and robes w-la Dido, form an agreeable folds or full bunches of the snow-drop, crocus,
exception. The Carthage cymar (as described ul primrose, and worn with short white reils, in our lase) is a graceful and favourite append. are conspicuous for airiness and simplicity. | age to the rouvd dress, and if formed of conCaps of French net, variously constructed, | sistent materials, will be found a becoming and suitably disposcd, form an appropriate || out-door decoration for the high waiking gown and general appendage to the morning and during the summer. There can be but little balt dress. The Spanish hat for full dress is novelty in the articles of jewellery in the space somewhat on the decline.
of one month; diamonds, pearls, wbite Cor. The hair cropt, in full curls, or partially in | nelian, aud their several fancy substitutes, are ringlets, but exposing the ear nearly as high as exclusively adapted to the coloured dress.
With white, or very light shades of colours, fashionable singularity. She scarce cver ap. entire suits of coloured gems are considered pears in public twice in the same habit; in eacia elegant and fashionable. Steel clasps for the , however, it must be confessed, she displays no cestus take place of gold or silver. Wbile ordinary share of taste. silk stockings, we are pleased to see, succeed From the description given you in my last the coloured buskin of masculine order; of the family with wbom i sojourn, you will women vever gaiv any thing on the score of readily imagine that this capricious Siren is admiration when they depart (even in the not so unacceptable to the ladies of the mansmallest degree) from the general charactersion as she is to me, who am peither so brilliof their sex. Shoes and gloves need no com- | ant, so beautiful, or so vain, as to feel perfectly meut since our last. The prevailing colours | at ease in the constant society of a female are purple, green, and orange; the most gen. whose beauty eclipses that of ruost of her sex, teel jouquille, pea-green, and piuk.
whose manners invite the generality of men, and seem to solicit advances. Never was there
a more determined monopolizer. Married and LETTER ON DRESS,
siogle, old and young, are expected to do
homage at the shrine of her beauty; and the EXPLANATORY AND DESCRIPTIVE.
peace of many a better woman is sacrificed by London, March 28th. this her vain aud unprincipled rapacity. She THERE is my dear Frederica, a very beau-puts me in mind of the comparison roade by tiful (not to say very vain creature) arrived sonje poet, who likened his mistress to the sun, amongst us, not at all to my satisfaction, al- l because like it, she was a general benefit, though it way prove to your amusement; for and shone on all alike. For my part, I hate you shall have a sketch of her. She is the very the encroaching slut, aud shall be beartily attractive daughter of the needy CountR-, glad when she takes her departure; for the who brought her over with his Countess, at beaus of our household all in a degree wear her the commencement of the Revolution, when chains; and there is no obtaining common atthis Parisian sprig was in its early bud. || tention when she is by. Even the sage and Though transplanted from her vative soil in interesting on whom (entrenous; I had her days of lisping infancy, she seems to have fixed my eye, declares in favour of her beauty gucked in all that light aliment which helps to and fascination; aud feels lis vanity dattered form the peculiar features of her country, and by that attention, which, though common to is at this momeut one of the most flourishing | all, is so dispensed as to lead each to suspect exotics of her kind which England ever pur that his owu dear self is preferred. She manageting tured. She is now in her twentieth year; and fs however, to remain a great favourite of our the extreme beauty of her person, vivacity of two young ladies, who admire every thing that her manners, and lightness of her principles, is elegaut, gay, and fassionable; they copy makes her much followed hy the gay and dissi. her in her dress and mapuers; and I fear will pated world of the opposite sex, and of course, soon imitate her principles also. not a little envied by the vain and frivolous of There has been one continual round of visitbcr own. She has long been the farouriteing, and seeing company, since Mademoiselle's Protegée of a rich old Duchess, who having arrival; and we have sometimes been to dio Do children of her own, and for many years or three parties on the same wight. I really ceasing to attract that train of male butterflics || begin to tire of all this, and tipd ove may bave which were accustomed to futter round her in too much of a good thing. Tomorrow we go her days of youthful triumph, now sought to to the Argyle-street Rooms, whiclı are expectcollect them within her sphere by the splendided to be uucommouly crowded; the day followrays of beauty, fascination, and grace, in the ing we are engaged for Lord F -'s grand person of Maderaviselle Rusée of whom she dinner; the next day to the Counless of appears fond to a fault. Her handsome for
M~'s concert, and so on, till we close the tune is ungrudgingly lavished in the spleudour week with the Sunday conversatione of my Lady of her household. Her carriages, liveries, and || Wrangleside. On each of these occasivus luelegance vie in richness with those of the most wealthy and youthful females of her rank, and former- outduings in the variety and cleyance of all these worldly goods, Mademoiselle of her personal decoratio. It is curious tu Rasée has ik supreme command, and appear's hear her give her orders to her anilliner on as the reigning yueen. Nothing can exceed these important matters. She spares no sout tbe expence and variety of her personal decu
of expence, nor cares for wbat any one thinks: ration, which is ever in the bigbes: style of land is most independersi in her notious of x
a demoiselle Rusie is determined to out du lica
travagance, vanity, and impropriety. Yester. i quently lets fill in glossy curis dowu der baek, day we all sallied sorth to La Rolle's, in order and over one shonlder; partially couhoing it to choosc dresses for the above-mentioned gay with a band of the inest brilliants. What oceasions; and amidst an berd of elegaut renders her beauty the inore striking is, that articles which were exhibited, uot one was with ibis bair, she bas a skin white and smooth slought to possess sufficient grace or novelty as satin ; and a bluum all her own. On her to please this exorbitant creature. Al length, | exquisitely wlite and well-turned throat she drawing a seat opposite a large mirror:-"Come never admits a necklace ; nor erer curers ker here, niy dear La Rolle,” said she; “How mind arms in full dress; they being ornamentent on I must have a complete costume, unlike what such occasions with armlets of Oriental pearl, you make for any one else ; so set your wits to and her glove is never «llowed to approach work, and make me look delightfully with all farther than the rounding above the wrist. zour night. The Armenian robe and corset Now after this copions description of Mawill du very well for Wednesday; and the demoiselle Rusée, you would question my simple gossamer frock, sprinkled with green candoer if I were to deny that I shall not toil, will answer for the Argyle street Rooms; grieve as one wit kout here, when she takes her but the Thursday's dinuer will be more select, departure. Let her lay seige to as many and I shall be a wearex mark for observation ; | hearts as she pleases so as she leaves alone there are to be some of the richest and havd. || those already resigned and selected. God bless somest neu in the kingdom, therefore I charge you! more of this hereafter. My maid bas you make me irresistible.” She then called orders to transmit with this a faithful account for several pieces of various manufactories in of the prevailing habiliments; therefore, as ! muslips, siiks, velvets, and neis; folded them conclude I have amused you better by the in various graceful forms round her truly ele- present portrait thap I could possibly have gant figure; and at length decided on a Bo- done by a recapitulation of the same matter, 1 hemian vest, formed of Peruvian vet, wrought sball make no apology for dwelling less ou that in a fancy burder of silver lama, and woru over | subject which generally occupies so large a a blossom-coloured slip. Her hair, which is place in the letters of your ever siueert of the most beautiful bright black, she fre- || friend.