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For FEBRUARY, 1809.
EXPLANATION OF THE PRINTS OF FASHION.
Nos. 1 AND 2.-EVENING Dresses. Fontarabian robes of Saragossa brown uet, worn over white satin or sarsnet; the front breadth ornamented with borders of vandyke lace, terminated at the extreme edge with gold cord, or narrow binding. Stomacher of white satin, laced with gold.. Short sleeve of correspondent materials. A drapery flowing from the right shoulder (where it is confined with a brooch), is trimmed semblable to the front of the robe (as is seen in Fig. 1. of the Plate), and falling in graceful negligence round the back of the figure, is trimmed on the left side with a gold tassel. A Pelerine, or Pilgrim's tippet, of lace, brought to points in front of the figure, and confined with gold brooches on the shoulders, forms a graceful finish for the bust. A Patriotic hat of white satin, frosted velvet, or silver tissue, with Gallician plume. Hair worn in irregular ringlets. Diamond earrings, necklace, and bracelets. Shoes of white satin, with silver rosettes and fringe. Gloves of
stars of silver, and edged with vandyke trim-
FASHIONS FOR THE SEASON;
SELECTED FROM THE MOST ELEGANT PUBLIC
We have in this present Number of our Work to add to our general remarks on the fashions of the day a list of those distinguishing habits which constitute the splendour of a drawing-room costume; and which shone with increased lustre on the anniversary of our The different terms applied to the various beloved Sovereign. As the list of court dresses articles which compose this elegant habiliwill necessarily occupy some considerable ment will, of course, bespeak it entirely Spa-space, and as the elegance and splendour which nish; and we here take occasion to remark, that it is equally consistent and attractive if formed of any fashionable coloured crape, or fancy leno.
No. 3.-EVENING DRESS.
A round robe, with short train of claretcoloured crape or muslin; a fluted ribband round the bottom of the same colour; a French stomacher front of white satin, either plain or laced with silver cord, and trimmed with narrow vandyke lace, which is continued round the back and shoulders; a white satin long sleeve, edged as the stomacher, or with a deep antique cuff of lace. A square mantle of white net, embroidered in large spots or small No. XLI. Vol. VI.
is now displayed at the balls, routs, and public places in this metropolis, afford an extensive subject for fashionable communication, we find it necessary to exclude all introductory matter, and to resort at once to those delineations and remarks which are to form the prin cipal feature of our present subject.
Although the walking, or carriage costume, has undergone little change as to their material or general construction, yet some few elegant novelties have been introduced, which claim, from their unique formation, the attention of our fair correspondents. The first which we shall notice is a walking, or rather carriage habit, formed in a high round robe of fine Merino cloth, the colour Spanish fly. This
robe is formed a walking length, with long sleeves, and square Spanish mantle of the same, flowing over the back and shoulders. All the points and terminations of the robe and mantle are ornamented with a fancy border of chenille in shaded greens, finished with a narrow base of black velvet. At the extremity of the throat it has a plaited winged frill of point lace in vandyke or scollop. A small bonnet of the jockey form, compos:d the same materials, ornamented with edging, and band of variegated green feathers. A short lace veil of French point, and half boots of green kid, or velvet laced with black, completes this very attractive and elegant dress.
Chinese floss trimmings, lace flowers, and sometimes with two short feathers. This latter article in various forms, is now a distinguishing article in full dress; indeed the dress hat (particularly the Spanish) is incomplete without this graceful appendage.
There is much elegance and novelty in the construction of both morning and evening robes at this season. By such females as are fond of the extremes of fashion, the waist is frightfully increased in length, but the most genteel and elegant women do not exceed a becoming medium. The bosoms and fronts of robes are generally much ornamented. The morning robe is must consistent and becoming when formed of white muslin, let in with lace beading in various fanciful forms in front of the bust. We have seen two of this style of
chaste and simple elegance which should ever distinguish this species of decoration. They were cach made high in the neck, and one was formed with a winged ruff in small half plaits, edged with narrow vandyke lace, and cuffs to correspond, a stomacher frout laced with cord, and otherwise ornamented with lace beading, but one had a border round the bottom and up the front of the lotus in white net, the edges in tambour, with high winged collar, and cuffs of the same.
For fall dress, gowns of cloth, velvet, and satin, are most in request at this season; though brocade sarsnet and muslin, and net over satin, blend with the elegant variety. The construction of these robes are various, some in velvet and fine imperial cloth, are bordered alternately with borders of chenille in embroidery; others are ornamented with gold or silver lace, with clasps and fringe to correspond; others are trimmed entirely with fine lace in antique.
Pelisses are now often formed with scarfs and short mantles of the same, of Spanish fly, Sargaossa brown, or fine purple cloth, or gold coloured velvet; they are trimmed with spot-robes, which remain unrivalled as to that ted ermine, or other skin, or with the shaded border of floss silk. The Exile mantle is now much in esteem, and possesses much unstudied elegance. It is compossed of fine Vigonia cloth of a very dark green, lined throughout with rose coloured, or amber sarsnet, and which being doubled over at the edges, forms a lively contrast to the fur with which it is trimmed about a nail beyond. This elegant mantle is constructed with a high puckered collar, clasped at the throat with silver, gold, or cut steel. It sits close to the figure in form of a wrap on one side; and on the other (which is rounded) it is folded by the disposition of the hand, as fancy or necessity may direct. The Polish wrapping coat of cloth or velvet, lined and trimmed with fur is a very seasonable article, and well adapted to defend the fair wearer from the severity of the weather. White satin mantles trimmed with swansdown, and formed in the Exile style, are considered as elegant wraps for the Opera. Large shawls and scarlet mantles are however still much worn on these occasions; with which the white fox or swansdown tippet, also blends. The straw bonnet is still introduced as a winter article, in various formis, and ornamented with seasonable flowers and ribbands. These coverings though exceedingly comfortable for the pedestrian fair, and simply pretty in themselves, are cerrtainly best adapted for summer wear. It were an endless task, should we attempt to describe the various constructions which compose the velvet bonnets and hats which our fashionables display, suffice it that they are generally formed of the same material as the pelisse or mantle, and are either of the Spanish or helmet form, while some are in the small French style, with fall puckered fronts. They are ornamented with
Short Polanese robes of coloured gossamer net, over white satin under dresses, have a very light and elegant effect in the ball-room. The following dress struck us as exceedingly beautiful, and decorated females of considerable rank and much personal beauty on a late splendid occasion. First, a round robe of fine white imperial eloth, trimmed round the bottom with a gold fringe; long sleeves of gold tissue, and deep antique cuff; gold embossed stomacher; diamond ornaments, with correspondent comb, and Spartan diadem.— Secondly, a Convent robe of grass-green velvet, richly tamboured in borders of gold; a Spanish bat of white satin, with rich gold loops, and Spanish plame of variegated green feathers white satin shoes, with gold embroidered toes.
round to correspond with the petticoat and train. The body and sleeves of gold leopard tissue satin, embroidered and inlaid with rich coloured stones, to correspond with the train and petticoat. Her Royal Highness wore over this dress a brilliant Grecian wreath of dia
stars. The splendour and magnificence of this dress was much admired. Her Royal Highness's head-dress was elegantly set with diamonds and ostrich feathers.
Thirdly, a plain round robe of pink or blossom coloured satin, with long sleeve; a broad scolloped lace, laid plain round the feet a little above the hem; the same round the bosom and cuffs; an appliqued stomacher of point lace, edged with pearl or white bugles; 'pearl necklace, earrings, and bracelets; hair -lamonds, superbly set with bunches of roses and Greque, with pearl comb-Fourthly, a Roman tunick of light blue velvet, made high in the neck behind, with a deep double plaited ruff of vandyke lace, brought to a point at the centre of the bosom, and clasped with rich embossed silver ornaments from thence to the feet; short sleeve the same as the vest, finished with silver lace or binding like that which borders the dress; a long sleeve of fine cobweb net placed over, and confined at the wrist with a diamond clasp; neck and head ornaments to correspond-or a Spanish hat of frosted satin. Scarlet robes are rather on the decline, or at best only belonging to the intermediate style of decoration, as does also the half kerchief for the hair. Jewellery is much worn in the hair by those ladies whose redundant tresses reject the cap; which latter article belongs (in full dress) exclusively to ladies advanced in years : these are generally formed of velvet, gold and silver tissue, or lace interspersed with satin or velvet. The necklace, or chain, is worn short, and the bracelet broad.
The most genteel colours are Saragossa brown, Spanish fly, purple, and gold colour; although scarlet and marone are very general.
Gloves and shoes admit of no remark since our last communication.
Princess Augusta -Spanish brown velvet petticoat, richly embroidered with gold, a wreath of gold laurel round the bottom; sashes of brown and gold velvet thrown across the petticoat, bordered with wreaths of laurei and berries on the left side. The drapery bordered with a rich Grecian filligree of dead and bright gold tied up with rich gold cords and tassels. Body and train of brown and gold velvet. The effect of this dress was most beautiful.
P›incess Elizabeth —A scarlet velvet petticoat, the bottom richly embroidered in shells of matted gold and brilliant Algerine spangles. Right side drapery of gold beaded net, with a rich tassel fringe; left side of point scarlet velvet and gold tissue, with a rich embroidery of shells in gold. The drapery suspended by diamonds. Train of gold and scarlet tissue, trimmed with gold to correspond with the petticoat. Head dress of diamonds and feathers. This dress was much admired for taste and elegance.
Princess Mary-A magnificent dress of Spa nish brown velvet, embroidered with gold in octagons, forming the ground work of the dress, and spotted all over with gold foil cockle shells. A large drapery, in a semicircular direction, composed the right side of the dress, of gold velvet tissue, with a rich border of cockle shells in dead and bright foil, forming points, and supporting large branches of foil leaves, &c. Six smaller draperies 'tastefully placed one above another, embroidered in scol lops, and stripes of spangles forming shells
ON THE ANNIVERSARY OF HER MAJESTY'S BIRTH-DAY. Her Majesty.-Scarlet velvet petticoat, with black lace thrown over in tasteful draperies, tied up in diamond bows on the right side; draperies, rows of gold cockle shells and chains, strings of pearls and pearl tassels; the pocket-relieved the eye from the massy borders of the holes ornamented with rich gold cords and tassels; the bottom of the petticoat gold chains. Body and train of scarlet and gold velvet, trimmed with black lace. Her Majesty's dress was truly magnificent.
correspondent draperies, and had an elegant effect. The left side, small scollop-shell dra. peries, tied by a long sash and end; the bottom a broad border of foil in diamonds, embroidered with ballion, and terminated by a spangled fringe. Robe, brown and gold velvet tissue, trimmed with gold point lace and diamonds.
Princess Sophia--Scarlet cloth petticoat,
Princess of Wales.-A superb gold and white leopard tissue satin train and petticoat, richly embroidered and inlaid all round with beautiful stones, to form vine leaves and grapes, inter-richly embroidered in gold, ornamented with woven with bunches of coral. The drapery and pocket holes of royal purple and gold tissue satin, with a most superb border all
cords and tassels. Train and body of the same.
Princess Amelia-A black velvet petticoat, with a drapery across of gold tissue, orna
mented with wreaths of gold currant leaves in stripe. The drapery supported by gold cord and tassel, ground-work sprigs of currant leaves in matted gold, and brilliant gold fringe at the bottom. Train of black and gold tissue. Head dress of diamonds and feathers.
The Duchess of York, with her usual taste and elegance, displayed a marine velvet dress, the petticoat of which was covered with a most beautiful real gold net, richly spangled all over, and trimmed with costly Maltese fringe; gold cord and tassel to correspond. A head dress of ostrich feathers, with a collection of precious stones; the neck adorned by a collection of the most precious stones ever seen in this country, and set in a most curious manner, which is peculiar to the great taste and elegance of this admirable Princess.
draperies of orange, festooned up with bands of gold chain. At the bottom a border of the same to correspond.
Countess De Bruhl.—A yellow satin, trimmed with gold.
Right Hon. Lady Arden.-White crape petticoat, richly embroidered with gold shells and purple velvet wreath; the drapery embroidered in purple and gold; train of purple velvet trimmed with gold and ornamented with point lace.
Countess Dowager Pembroke.-White and gold petticoat, rich Maroon satin drapery, elegantly ornamented with gold rolio aud tassels; Maroon satin train, trimmed with gold. Her Ladyship wore, as usual, a profusion of diamonds.
Countess Dartmouth was in a superb petticoat of white satin, with draperies of rich purple velvet, edged with fine sable, ornamented with gold chain and tassels, purple
Princess Sophia of Gloucester.-Blue satin petticoat, superbly embroidered with silver. Blue and silver train, elegantly ornamented with silver. Head dress, diamonds and fea-robe, trimmed to correspond. Head dress of thers.
Princess Castelcicala.-A dress of white satin, trimmed with beads; full turban draperies of satin and crape in festoons, with ropes of beads, and tied together in bunches of the same, handsome bead tassels, &c. Robe, green yelvet, trimmed with point lace.
purple, diamonds and white feathers.
Countess of Portsmouth.-A petticoat of ruby velvet, richly embroidered in gold oak wreaths; draperies the same, fastened up with gold rolio and tassels; body and train to correspond, trimmed with point; head dress diamonds and ostrich feathers.
Countess of Chesterfield.-A white satin petticoat, richly embroidered in gold of antique design; draperies ruby-coloured velvet, richly embroidered in chains of matted gold, inter
The Duchess of Northumberland.-A white satin petticoat, with draperies of purple AngloMerino cloth, richly embroidered with lame and Chinese tassels; Spanish robe ornamented with gold; a bonnet a l'Espagnole, with dia-spersed with branches of palm leaves and bloom monds. of brilliant gold; the draperies suspended by
Marchioness of Salisbury.-A purple velvet rich and elegant cords and tassels of gold. dress, covered with fine point lace.
Train of ruby coloured velvet. Head dress of feathers and diamonds. This dress was remarkably rich and elegant.
Countess St. Martin de Front.-A dress of white crape, with drapery of ruby velvet trimmed with gold wreaths and festoons of rich gold cord; the whole looped up with handsome gold cord and tassels. Robe, ruby velvet, trimmed with gold and point lace.
Dowager Countess of Dysart, who had not been at Court for some years. Her Ladyship looked extremely well.-Her dress was a beautiful crimson velvet train and petticoat, with drapery most superbly ornamented in Maltese gold.
Countess of Cardigan.—A dress of beautiful Spanish brown velvet, richly embroidered in gold, edged with gold, and festooned with ropes and tassels; head dress, feathers and diamonds. Countess of Bellamont.-A brown yelvet dress, spond, adorned with diamonds. The whole ornamented with gold shells.
Countess of Effingham.-Body and train of moss velvet, trimmed with point and gold; petticoat of purple crape intermixed with
The body and sleeves trimmed with point lace and diamonds. The head dress a turban of crimson velvet and gold to corre
displaying the taste and elegance of that amiable lady.
The Lady Mayoress.-Dress of white crape, with a rich and elegant silver oak and ivy bor