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ANECDOTES OF DRESS, AND THE CAPRICES OF FASHION. PROM MALCOLM's “ANECDOTES OF THE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF LONDON DURING
THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY."
(Concluded from Page 64.]
“In June 1722, the Bishop of Durham ap- || pursuing the change; this makes fashion 60 peared on horseback at a review, in the King's | universally followed, and is the true reason train, in a lay habit of purple with jack bowls, || why the awkwardest people are as fond of this * and his bat cocked, and black wig tied behind folly as the genteelest, who give a grace to him like a militant officer.
eve:y thing they wear. I shall not busy myself “George Il. reviewed the Guards in 1727, | with the ladies' shoes and stockings at all; it habited in grey cloth faced with purple, with máy serve to recal some ideas to the young a purple feather in his hat; and the three | fellows of this age, which it does not become eldest Princesses went to Richmond in riding | my character and office to encourage; but I habits, with hats and feathers and periwigs. cannot so easily pass over tbe hoop when it is
“I have met with the following description | in my way, and therefore I inust beg pardon of of the dress of a running footinao iu 1730:-|| my fair readers, if I begin my attack where • They wear fine holland drawers and waist. the above mentioued pretty gentlemen end coats, thread stockings, a blue silk sash fringed theirs. It is now some years since this rewith silver, a velvet cap with a great tassel ; markable fashion made a figure in the world, and carry a porter's staff with a large silver and from its first beginning, divided the pubhandle.'
lic opinion as to its convenience and beauty. “ The beaus of the day seemed emulous of For my own part I was always willing to in. the running fraternity in the latter part of their dulge it uuder some restrictions; that is to insignia, according to the Unirersal Spectator, | say if it is not a rival to the dome of St. Paul's, which says :—The wearing of swords at the to incumber the way, or a tub for the resistance court-end of the town is by many polite young of a new Diogenes; if it does not eclipse too gentlemen laid aside ; and instead thereof they much beauty above, or discover too much carry large oak sticks, with great heads and below. lo sbort, I am for living in peace; and ugly faces carved thercon.'
I am afraid a fine lady, with too much liberty "An advertisement in March 1731, mentions in this particular, would render my own imaseveral articles of the dress of the time; i gination an enemy to my repose. amongst wbich were, 'a black velvet petticoat; “ The farthingal, according to several paint. a rose-coloured paduasoy mantua, lined with Hings, and even history itself, is as old as Queen rich mautua silk of the same colour; a suit Elizabeth, though it is possible it had its origin of black paduasoy; a loog velvet scarf, lined in the same manner as the hoop, and was worn with a shot silk of pink blue; a long silk bood as universally; but the prudes of our days laced, two white short silk aprons, one em revived it in stark opposition to that fashion, broidered with silk at the edges ; one green and boasted that while they were in that circle silk apron embroidered with silk and silver; they were secure from temptation; nay, some three new muslin India balf handkerchiefs, ll of them have presumed to say that it gave then spotted with plated silver; two gauze half all the chastity of that heroic Priucess, who handkerchiefs, one brown embroidered with died, as she had lived, a virgin, after so many gold, silver, and silk; a short crimson satin years of trial.--N. B. Her Maids of Honour cloak, lined with white silk; a gold and silver wore farthingals as well as ber Majesty, and girdle, with backles set with Bristol stones, undoubtedly participated of the same virtue, &c.'
though I submit that point to the examina“ The Weekly Register of July 10, 1731, con tion of the learned. tains the following lively survey of female “ The stay is a part of modern dress that I dress :
bave an invincible aversion to, as giving a stiff“ The love of novelty is the parent of fa ness to the whole frame, which is void of all shion, and as the fashion sickens with one grace, and an enemy to beauty; but, as I image it longs for another; this is the cause would not offend the ladies by absolutely conof the continued revolutions of habit and be. | demning wbat they are so fond of, I will recal haviour, and why we are so industrious ip | my censure, anil ovly observe that even this No. XLIII.-Vol. VI.
female armour is changing mode continually, amour was its inseparable companion. Oa and favours or distresses the enemy according which account I give public notice that a highto the humour of the wearer. Sometimes the crowned hat shall be esteenied as an emblem stomacher almost rises to the chin, and a of an amorous heart, and a signal for the first modesty bit serves the purpose of a ruff: at assignation that falls in the way. other times it is so complaisant as not to reach “ The bat and peruke, which has been some half way, and the modesty is but a transparent time made part of a lady's riding equipage, is shade to the beauties underneath. This is such an odd kind of affectation, that I hardly what one inay call opening the windows of know under what species to range it; it is heaven, and giving us a view of paradise ; the such an enemy to female beauty, it is so other shuts up every avenue, and makes re- || foreig! to every amiable grace, it adds such a serve a dragon for its security: the first may masculine fierceness to the figure, and such a give passion too great a licence, and the last shameless boldness to every feature, that may be an injury to nature: for which reason, neither decency nor elegance can justify it.I recommend a medium; coquets are the en None hut Amazons ought to wear it; and, if couragers of one, and prudes of the other. any of the sex are now courageous enough to
“I have no objection to make to the tippet. hie defiance to mankind, I must insist on tbeir It may be made an elegant and beautiful orna- wearing the breeches too, to make their disa ment; in winter the sable is wonderfully guise complete. But I am apt to believe it is graceful, and a five belp to the complexion : made use of on quite different motives; it in summer the colours and the composition must certainly take place out of a more than are to be adapted with judgment, neither dull ordinary regard to os, and must be ineant as without fancy, nor gaudy without beauty. the highest compliment. Beside, it may serve
"As the breast-knot allows a good deal of to tickle the mind with pretty imaginatious; ingenuity in the delicate choice of colours, sometimes supply the absence of a beau, and and disposition of figure, I think it may be sometimes please with the resemblance. I indulged ; but very sparingly, and rather with
never see one of these heroines without ascriba negligence than the least affectation.
ing some such cause for her gallantry; and “I come now to the head dress, the very always surmise with what readiness she would highest point of female clegance; and here ! part with the appearance in exchange for the find such a variety of modes, such a medley of reality. decoration, that it is hard to know where to “The riding babit simply, without the fix; lace and cambric, gauze and friuge, fea black velvet cap and white feather, is, in my thers and ribands, create such a contusion, opinion, the most elegant dress that belongs 10 occasion such frequent changes, that it defies the ladies' wardrobe; there is a grace and art, judgment, or taste to reconcile them to gentility in it that all other dresses want; it any standard, or reduce them to any order. displays the shape and turn of the body to That ornament of the hair wbich is styled the great advantage, aud betrays a negligence that horns, and has been in voglie so long, was cer is perfectly agreeable. This fashion was certainly first calculated by some good-natured tainly first invented by a womau of taste; aud Jady to keep her spouse in countenance; and, by I am pleased to see the ladies i:. general so well sympathy, the fasbion bas prevailed ever since. reconciled to it. It argues something like
“ The high-crowned hat, after having been good sense in their chvice still remaining; and confined to cots and villages for so long a she who makes her whole actions most contime, is become the favourite mode of quality, formable to that standard, will always be most and is the politest distinction of a fashionable secure of conquests and repatation.' undress. I quarrel with it only because it “Perukes were an highly important article seems to be a kind of masquerade ; it would in 1734. Those of right grey human hair were insinuate an idea of innocence and rusticity, four guineas eaclı; light grizzle ties three though the Park is not the likeliest place to be guineas; and other colours in proportion, ro the scene of either: in short, if a woman is twenty-five shillings. Pight grey human hair dressed like a wood nymph, I expect the sim cue perukes from two guineas to fifteen shilplicity of manners, and full force of rural lings each, which was the price of dark cues : nature, which is of a piece with the character; and right grey bob perukes two guineas and an but I am geverally most egregiously disap. half to fifteen shillings, the price of dark bohs. poioted. Some lady who was intimate with Those mixed with borse-hair were much lower. the intrigue of romances was certainly the re. It will be observed from the gradations in viver of this custom; she had read of lucky price, that real grey hair was most in fashion, adventures in that disguise, and fancied an and dark of no estination.
“ The following extracts will describe the , Lainment, but am debarred that diversion by dresses of 1735:-- On bis Majesty's birth-day, my relations, upon account of a sort of people the Queeu was in a beautiful suit, made of silk who uow fill, or rather infest the boxes. I of the produce of Georgia; and the same was went the other night to the play with an aunt universally ackuowledged to excel that of any of mine, a well-bred woman of the last age, other country. The poblemen and gentlemen though a little furmal. When we sat down wore chiefly at court brown Aowered velvets, ll in the front hoxes, we found ourselves suror dark cloth coats, laced with gold or silver, rouvded by a parcel of the strongest fellows or plain velvets of various colours, and brecches that ever I saw in my life; some of them had of the same; their waistcoats were either gold' those loose kind of great coats on, which I stuffs, or rich flowered silks of a large pattern, | have heard called wrap rascals, with gold-laced with a white ground: the make much the hats slouched, in humble imitation of stagesame as has been worn some time, ouly many coachmen : others aspired at being grooms, and bad open sleeves to their coats: their tie wigs had dirty boots and spurs, with black caps ou, were with large curls, setting forward and and long whips in their hands : a third sort rising from the forehead, though not very wore scanty frocks, little shabby hats put on bigh: the ties were thick, and longer than of one side, and clubs in their hands. My aunt late, and both behind; some few had bag whispered me, she never saw such a set of wigs.
slovenly unmannerly footmen sent to keep “ The ladies wore flowered silks of various places iu ber life; when, to her greater sur. sorts, of a large pattern, but mostly with a prize, she saw those fellows at the end of the act white ground with wide short sleeves, and pay the box-keeper for their places.' short petticoats: their gowns were pinned up “When our present Queen landed in Engvariously behind, though mostly narrow. Some and 1761, she was habited in a gold brocade few had gold or silver nets on their petticoats, // with a white ground; had a stomacher orna. and to their facings and robings; and some
mented with diamonds; and wore a fly-cap bad gold and silver set on their gown sleeves, with richly laced lappets. Such was the then like flounces : they wore chiefly fine escaloped female British dress, which her Majesty adoptJaced heads, and dressed mostly English. ed in compliment to her royal consort's subSome few had their hair curled down on the jects. sides ; but most of them had it pinned up
“General Napier lost by robbery in the quite strait, and almost all of them with pow. same year 'a painted silk negligée and petti. der, both before and behind. Some few had their coat, the ground white, a running pattern of beads made up Dutch, some with cockades of Powers and leaves, the edges of the leaves ribands on the side, and others with artificial painted in silver, and the veins gold, with some flowers; they wore treble escaloped laced ruf.
birds and butterflies painted thereon.' fles, one fall tacked up before, and two down,
“ The author of Historical Remarks on Dress, but all three down behind; though some few published in 1761 by Jefferies, asserts, that had two falls tacked up, and one down before.party-coloured coats were first worn in EngLaced tippets were much worn; some had land in the time of Henry I.; chaplets, or diamond solitaires to hook them together; wreaths of artificial flowers, in the time of others had their jewels made up bows and Edward III.; boods and short coats without eads. Those without tippets had mostly very sleeves, called tabarts in the time of Henry IV.; broad laced tuckers, with diamond necklaces
bats in the time of Henry VII.; ruffs in the and ear-rings. Diamond buckles were much reigu of Edward VI.; and wrought caps or worn in the shoes both of the gentlemen and bonnets in the time of Queen Elizabeth. ladies. Lord Castlemain made a very splendid Judge Finch introduced the band in the time appearance among the young noblemen in a
of James I. French boods, bibs, and gorgeis, rich gold stuff coat; as Lady Harcourt did were discontinued by the Queen of Charles I. among the ladies, in a white ground rich silk The commode or tower was introduced in embossed witb gold and silver, and five colour-1637; shoes of the then fashion in 1633 ; ed flowers of a large pattern.'
breeches, instead of trunk hose, in 1654. And “ The Editor of the London Evening Post bas perukes were first worn after the Restoration." whimsically described the dresses then prevail
“ The Countess Dowager of Effingham was ing, under the character of Miss Townley, in robbed of the robes which she wore at the coroone of his papers for December 1739, who ob- | nation, and other dresses; and thus described serves :- I am a young woman of fashion, them in an advertisement :- Coronation who loves plays, and should be glad to frequent robes with a silver tissue petticoat, the gold them, as an agreeable and instructive enter- li trim ogs to the pe
at, and the tassels,
to the robe taken off, and put into papers ; a You will perhaps be surprized when I tell you scarlet-flowered damask mantua petticoat, very it is the cork rump. To explain this technical richly embroidered with silver; an uncut red term, you are to know that the ladies have flowered velvet mantua petticoat, trimmed thought it conducive to elegance to make cork with silver flounces of vet with silver tassels ; under the straps of their stays, in order, that a very rich blue and silver mantua petticoat,' by the protuberance of this new additional with a figured ground; a mantua petticoat: rump, their waist may seem the smaller and white and gold, with figured ground; a white the more delicate.' satiw gown and petticoat; a brown satin sack “ Some of the tben and subsequent exuberrichly brocaded with silver; a new satin sock ances sball now be brought to recollection. and petticoat, white satio ground brocaded
And first, the head this we have seen covered yellow; a scarlet unwatered tabby sack and, with a cushion, as it was termed, generally petticoat; a white tissue flowered sack and formed of horse-hair, and something like a petticoat; a white aud silver sack; a red satin
porter's knot set upon the ends; over this the fly petticoat, with a broad silver orrice at the hair was combed strait, the sides curled, and bottom ; a quilted red silk petticoat; and a tbe back turned up, and the whole powdered ; blue and gold Turkey silk sack and petticoat.' diminutive caps of gauze, adorned with ribauds,
“A person whose name is not mentioned, and miniature hats, generally of black silk influenced by the same cause as the Countess, il trimmed, were stuck on the tower of hair with described cloaths as follows:
-A brocade, long pins. The waist was covered by a longlustring sack with a ruby-coloured ground bodied gown, drawn exceedingly elose over stays and white tobine stripes trimmed with floss; a laced still closer; the hips sometimes supportblack satin sack flowered with red and white ed a bell hoop; the shoulders alternately small flowers trimmed with white floss; a pink and cloaks and cardinals, the former of muslin and white striped tobine sack and petticoat trim. silk, and the latter almost always of black silk med with white floss; and a garnet-coloured richly laced. lustring night-gown, with a tobine stripe of
“ This description of female dress altered green and while, trimmed with the floss of by degrees to the present fashion : the head The same colour, and lined with straw.coloured insensibly lowered; the horse-hair gare place lustring.'
to large natural curls spread over the face and “Such were the gawdy fashions of our
cars; the cap enlarged to an enormous size, dames c'rca 1763. Are we not improved in and the bonnet swelled in proportion; hoops our taste, good reader?'
were entirely discontinued, except at court; “ The Tadies head dress in 1765 is said to silks became unfashionable, and printed calihave exactly resembled that of Mary Queen of
coes and the finest white muslims were substi. Scots as represcuted in her portraits.
tuted, and still hold their ivfluence. The “Court mournings were continued for a most ladies have at length, much to their honour, unreasonable length of time previous to 1788, thrown aside those hateful attempts to supply and became very prejudicial to the manufac- | vature's deficiencies or omissions, the false turer and retailer; but remonstrances from breasts, pads, and bottoms; and now appear the city of London procured the ensuing in that native grace and proportion which motice, which was inserted in the Gazette: distinguishes an English woman : the hair,
“His Majesty, in compassion to such manu. cleansed from all extraneous matter, shines in facturers and people in the trade as by the beautiful lustre carelessly turned round the length of court mournings are, in this time of head in the manner adopted by the most emi. general scarcity and dearness of provisions, nent Grecian sculptors ; and the form appears deprived in a great measure of the means of through their snow-white draperies in that getting bread, liath been pleased to give direc- fascinating manner which excludes the last tions for shortening all such mournings for thought of impropriety. Their hats and bonthe future: and the Lord Chamberlain's orders nets of straw, chip, and beaver, are generally for court mournings will be issued hereafter well proportioned and handsome; and their conformably thereto.'
velvet pelisses, shawls, and silk spencers, are “ The subject of dress is now nearly ex contrived to improve rather than injare the bausted; but I cannot part with the follies of form. thirty years without permitting an observer to “But in the midst of this praise I must be speak of one of them :
permitted to make one observation ; and that “ Among the many enormous exuberances of | is, some thoughtless females indulge in the modern dress, I believe there is one lately licence of freedom rather too far, and shew sprung up which you may not have noticed. their person n a manner offensive to modesty.
"The male dress changed almost insensibly || than the rest of the dress in the aggregate; it from formality to case. This was effected || is enough to say, the neckcloth has been comincrely by altering the cut of the cloatlis : the pared to a towel tied under the chin. materials are the same they were a hundred “ The hair was a long time dressed or frizzed years past; the colours however are more high on the head, like a negro's wool, and pergrave. Deep blue, dark browus, mixtures, | fectly whitened with powder, and alternately and black, are worn by the sedate and the gay, plaited and turned up or queued bebind. The the young and the eld: the former indeed | powder-tax occurred, and thousands of heads sometimes appear in coats rather large for their | became in an instant black and brown; and, persons; but they compensate for this oddity as the revolution in France deserved imitation, by stretching their pautaloons almost to burst. | the fierce republican head of Brutus stared us ing, and wear something that resembles the full in the front, mounted upon the shoulders waistcoat of a boy seven years old. The mo of Ladies and box-lobby loungers composed of dern bat is very convenient a high flat crown | puppies rather than men. and narrow brim, pressed down before and be “ Since those days of horror powder again bind, and turned up at the sides. Square toed | makes its appearance with the hair cropped shoes have been revived ; and half and whole close, except above the forehead; there it is boots are, I believe, every thing but slept in. || turned erect in imitation of a cock's-comb. The modern neckcloth should not be omitted, “ And now, fashion, I bid thee, in perfect especially as it has undergone more ridicule good humour, lcartily farewel!”
TIIE SPORTS AND PASTIMES
EXTRACTED FROM A VERY ANCIENT PUBLICATION.
"Let us now (saith Fitzstephen) come to “The scholars of every school have their balls . the sports and pastimes, seeing it is fit that a or bastions in their bands : the ancient and city should not only be conmodious and seri- | wealthy men of the city come forth oq borse ows, but also merry aud sportful. Whereupon, back, to see the sports of the young men, and to in the scales of the Popes, until the time of take part of the pleasure in beholding their Pope Leo, on the one side was St. Peter agility. fishing, with a key over bim, reached as it
“ Every Friday in Lent a fresh company of were by the hand of God out of heaven, and
young meu come into the field on horseback, about it this verse-Tu pro me navem liquisti, and the best horsemen conduct the rest. Then sasc pe clarem. On the other side was city, march forib the citizeus' sons, and other young and this incripsion on it-Aurea Roma. Like men, with disarmed launces and shields, and wise to the praise of Augustus Cæsar, and the there they practised feats of war. city, in respect of the showes and sports, " Many courtiers, likewisc, when the King was written-Vucte pluit tota redeunt spectacula lieth near, and attendants on voblemen, do re
pair to those exercises, and while the hope of “ Allnight it rains, and shows at morrow-tide victory doth inflame their minds, they shew by retaro again,
good proof, how serviceable they would be in
martial affairs. "And Cæsar with Almighty Jove bath match'd an equal reign."
“ lw Easter holidays they fight baitles on
a shield is bung upon a pole, “But London for the shores upon theatres, || fixed in the midst of the stream ; a boat is pre. and comical pastimes, hath boly plays, re
pared without oars, to be carried with violence presentations of torments wherein the con of the water, and in the fore-part thereof stancy of martyrs appeared. Every year also, standeth a young man, ready to give charge on Shrove Tuesday (that we may begin with
upon the shield with his launce. If so be he childrens sports, seeing we all have been break his launce upon the shield and dotb not childrei:) the school-boys do bring cocks of fall, he is thought to h:ive performed a worthy the game to their master, and all the forenoon deed. If so he without breaking his launce he they delight themselves with cock-fighting. Il runneth strongly against the shield, down he After dinner all the youths go into the fieldsfalleth into the water, for the boat is forced to play at the ball.
with the tide ; but on each side the shield