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BRYDGES, Bart.

EGERTON

HOLIDAY PRESENTS FOR YOUTH.

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MRS. HOWITT'S NATURAL HISTORY. With Twenty-four Wood Cuts, price 5s. half bound,

2 vols. 8vo, with two fine Original Portraits. 28s. morocco cloth. SKETCHES OF NATURAL HISTORY.

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In Verse.

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LEIGH'S

METROPOLITAN GUIDE.

Just Published, corrected to the present time, and considerably enlarged, the 9th edition of NEW PICTURE OF LONDON, or Stranger's Guide to the remarkable Buildings, Antiquities, and other Curiosities; with a plan for viewing London in eight days, and a description of the Environs.

With Plan of London and Map of Environs, cs. bound.

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95. bound.

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London: Printed for LEIGH and Sox, 421, Strand, and BALDWIN and CRADOCK, Paternoster Row.

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must cut ye, egad! tho' feel hurt and all thatN ever know any man in an infamous hat, Get a chapeau of PERRING and place on thy sconce, 'Such a hat as can rivet my friendship at once. "He alone can supply, since old Dolman is dead, A covering fit for a gentleman's head." Then repair to the Strand, PERRING only can show Such perfection of fashion, with prices so low.

8 to one are long odds, but I'll bet it that I

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A re as light as the Plume of an eider-down feather,

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LONDON JOURNAL.

TO ASSIST THE ENQUIRING, ANIMATE THE STRUGGLING, AND SYMPATHIZE WITH ALL.

WEDNESDAY. JULY 9, 1834.

THE SUBJECT OF BREAKFAST CONTINUED.TEA-DRINKING.

A breakfast-table in the morning, clean and white with its table-cloth, coloured with the cups and saucers, and glittering with the tea-pot,-is it not a cheerful object, reader? And are you not always glad to see it? We know not any inanimate sight more pleasant, unless it be a very fine painting, or a whole abode snugly pitched; and even then, one of the best things to fancy in it, is the morning meal.

The yellow or mellow-coloured butter, (which softens the effect of the other hues), the milk, the bread, the sugar,-all have a simple, temperate look, very relishing however to a hungry man. Perhaps the morning is sunny; at any rate the day is a new one, and the hour its freshest; we have been invigorated by sleep; the sound of the shaken canister prepares us for the fragrant beverage that is coming; in a few minutes it is poured out; we quaff the odorous refreshment, perhaps chatting with dear kindred, or loving and laughing with the "morning faces" of children, or if alone, reading one of the volumes mentioned in our last, and taking tea, book, and bread-andbutter all at once,-no "inelegant" pleasure, as Sir Walter Scott saith of the eating of tarts.*

Dear reader, male or female (very dear, if the latter), do you know how to make good tea? Because if you do not (and we have known many otherwise accomplished persons fail in that desideratum) here is a recipe for you, furnished by a mistress of the art :

In the first place, the tea-pot is found by experience to be best, when it is made of metal. But whether metal or ware, take care that it be thoroughly clean, and the water thoroughly boiling. There should not be a leaf of the stale tea left from the last meal. The tests of boiling are various with different people; but there can be no uncertainty, if the steam come out of the lid of the kettle; and it is best therefore to be sure of that evidence. No good tea can be depended upon from an urn, because an urn cannot be kept boiling; and water should never be put upon the tea but in a thoroughly and immediately boiling state. If it has done boiling, it should be made to boil again. Boiling, proportion, and attention, are the three magic words of tea-making. The water should also be soft, hard water being sure to spoil the best tea; and it is advisable to prepare the tea-pot against a chill, by letting a small quantity of hot water stand in it before you begin; emptying it out, of course, when you do so. These premises being taken care of, excellent tea may be made for one person by putting into the pot three teaspoons full, and as much water as will cover the quantity. Let this stand five minutes, and then add as much more as will twice fill the cup you are going to

use.

Leave this additional water another five minutes, and then, first putting the sugar and milk into the cup, pour out the tea; making sure to put in another cup of boiling water directly.

Of tea made for a party, a spoonful for each and one over must be used, taking care never to drain the tea-pot, and always to add the requisite quantity of boiling water as just mentioned.

The most exquisite tea is not perhaps the wholesomest. The more green there is in it, certainly the less wholesome it is; though green adds to the palatableness. And drinking tea very hot is a pernicious custom.

In his Life of Dryden. Original edition, p. 86. "Even for some time after his connection with the theatre, we learn, from a contemporary, that his dress was plain at least, if not mean, and his pleasures moderate, though not inelegant. 'I remember,' says a correspondent of the Gentleman's Magazine for 1745, plain John Dryden, before he paid his court with success to the great, in one uniform clothing of Norwich-drugget. I have eat tarts with him and Madam Reeve at the Mulberrygardens, when our author advanced to a sword and a Chadreux wig.""

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SPARROW AND CO. CRANE COURT.

No. 15.

Green tea and hot tea make up the two causes which produce perhaps all the injurious results attributed to tea-drinking. Their united effects, in particular, are sometimes formidable to the "nerves," and to persons liable to be kept awake at night. Excellent tea may be made, by judicious management, of black tea alone; and this is unquestionably the most wholesome.

Now have a cup of tea thus well made, and you will find it a very different thing from the insipid dilution which some call tea, watery at the edges, and transparent half way down; or the syrup into which some convert their tea, who are no tea-drinkers, but should take treacle for their breakfast; or the mere strength of tea, with out any due qualification from other materials,—a thing no better than melted tea-leaves, or than those which it is said were actually served up at dinner, like greens, when tea was first got hold of by people in remote country parts, who had not heard of the way of using it, a dish of acrid bitterness. In tea, properly so called, you should slightly taste the sugar, be sensible of a balmy softness in the milk, and enjoy at once a solidity, a delicacy, a relish, and a fragrance in the tea. Thus compounded, it is at once a refreshment and an elegance, and we believe, the most innocent of cordials; for we think we can say from experience, that when tea does harm, it is either from the unmitigated strength just mentioned, or from its being taken too hot,-a common and most pernicious custom. The inside of a man, dear people, is not a kitchen copper.

But good tea, many of you may say, is dear. Tea of all sorts is a great deal too dear; but we have known very costly tea turn out poor in the drinking, and comparatively poor tea become precious. Out of very

bad tea it is perhaps impossible to make a good cup; but skill and patience are famous for converting ordinary materials into something valuable. And it should be added, that it is better to have one cup of good tea, than half-a-dozen of bad. Nevertheless we are not for despising the worst of all, if the drinker finds any kind of refreshment in it, and can procure no better. The very names of tea and tea-time are worth something.

And this brings us to an association of ideas, which, however common with us at the breakfast-table, and doubtless with hundreds of other people, we never experience without finding them amusing. We allude to China and the Chinese. The very word tea, so petty, so infantine, so winking-eyed, so expressive somehow or other of something inexpressibly minute, and satisfied with a little (tee !), resembles the idea one has (perhaps a very mistaken one) of that extraordinary people, of whom Europeans know little or nothing, except that they sell us this preparation, bow back again our ambassadors, have a language consisting only of a few hundred words, gave us China-ware and the strange pictures on our tea-cups, made a certain progress in civilization long before we did, mysteriously stopped at it and would go no further, and if numbers, and the customs of "venerable ancestors" are to carry the day, are at once the most populous and the most respectable nation on the face of the earth. As a population, they certainly are a most enormous and wonderful body; but as individuals, their ceremonies, their trifling edicts, their jealousy of foreigners, and their tea-cup representations of themselves (which are the only ones popularly known) impress us irresistibly with a fancy, that they are a people all toddling, little-eyed, little-footed, little-bearded, little-minded, quaint, over-weening, pigtailed, bald-headed, cone-capped or pagoda-hatted, having childish houses and temples with bells at every corner and story, and shuffling about in blue landscapes, over "nine-inch bridges," with little mysteries of bellhung whips in their hands,—a boat, or a house, or a tree made of a pattern, being over their heads or un

PRICE THREE HALFPENCE. derneath them (as the case may happen), and a bird, as large as the boat, always having a circular white space to fly in. Such are the Chinese of the tea-cups and the grocer's windows, and partly of their own novels too, in which every thing seems as little as their eyes,-little odes, little wine-parties, and a series of little satisfactions. However, it must be owned, that from these novels one gradually acquires a notion that there is a great deal more good sense and even good poetry among them, than one had fancied from the accounts of embassies and the autobiographical paintings on the China-ware; and this is the most probable supposition. An ancient and great nation, as civilized as they, is not likely to be so much behind-hand with us in the art of living, as our self-complacency leads us to imagine. If their contempt of us amounts to the barbarous, perhaps there is a greater share of barbarism than we suspect, in our scorn of them.

At all events, it becomes us to be grateful for their tea. What a curious thing it was, that all of a sudden, the remotest nation of the East, otherwise unknown and foreign to all our habits, should convey to us a domestic custom, which changed the face of our morning refreshments; and that instead of ale and meat, or wine, all the polite part of England should be drinking a Chinese infusion, and setting up earthen-ware in their houses, painted with preposterous scenery. We shall not speak contemptuously, for our parts, of any such changes in the history of a nation's habits, any more than of the changes of the wind, which now comes from the west, and now from the east, doubtless for some good purpose. It may be noted, that the introduction of tea-drinking followed the diffusion of books among us, and the growth of more sedentary modes of life. The breakfasters upon cold beef and "cool tankards," were an active, horse-riding generation. Tea-drinking times are more domestic, given to reading, and are riders in carriages, or manufacturers at the loom or the steam-engine. It may be taken as an axiom,—the more sedentary, the more tea-drinking. The conjunction is not the best in the world; but it is natural, till something better be found. Tea-drinking is better than dram-drinking, a practice which, if our memory does not deceive us, was creeping in among the politest and even the fairest circles, during the transition from ales to teas. When the late Mr. Hazlitt, by an effort worthy of him, suddenly left off the stiff glasses of brandy and water, by which he had been tempted to prop up his disappointments, or rather to loosen his tongue at the pleasant hour of supper, he took to tea-drinking, and it must be owned, was latterly tempted to make himself as much amends as he could for his loss of excitement, in the quantity he allowed himself; but it left his mind free to exercise its powers,-it "kept," as Waller beautifully says of it,

"The palace of the soul serene;"

not, to be sure, the quantity, but the tea itself, compared with the other drink. The prince of tea-drinkers was Dr. Johnson, one of the most sedentary of men, and the most unhealthy. It is to be feared his quantity suited him still worse; though the cups, of which we hear such multitudinous stories about him, were very small in his time. It was he that wrote, or rather effused, the humourous request for tea, in ridicule of the style of the old ballads (things, be it said without irreverence, which he did not understand so well as "his cups.") The verses were extempore, and addressed to Mrs. Thrale:

'And now, I pray thee, Hetty dear,
That thou wilt give to me,
With cream and sugar softened well,
Another dish of tea.

But hear, alas! this mournful truth,
Nor hear it with a frown,-
Thou canst not make the tea so fast,
As I can gulp it down.

Now this is among the pleasures of reading and reflecting men over their breakfast, or on any other occasion. The sight of what is a tiresome nothing to others, shall suggest to them a hundred agreeable recollections and speculations. There is a tea-cup, for example. "Well, what is a tea-cup!" a simpleton might cry;" it holds my tea-that's all." Yes, that's all to you and your poverty-stricken brain; we hope you are rich and prosperous, to make up for it as well as you can. But to the right tea-drinker, the cup, we see, contains not only recollections of eminent brethren of the bohea, but the whole Chinese nation with all its history, Lord Macartney included; nay, for that matter, Ariosto and his beautiful story of Angelica and Medoro; for Angelica was a Chinese; and then collaterally come in, the Chinese neighbours and conquerors from Tartary, with Chaucer's

-Story of Cambuscan bold,

and the travels of Marco Polo and others, and the Jesuit missionaries, and the Japanese with our friend Golownin, and the Loo Choo people, and Confucius, whom Voltaire (to shew his learning) delights to call by his proper native appellation of Kong-foo-tsee (reminding us of Congo tea), and then we have the Chinese Tales, and Goldsmith's Citizen of the World, and Goldsmith brings you back to Johnson again and the teadrinkings of old times, and then we have the Rape of the Lock before us with Belinda at breakfast, and Lady Wortley Montague's tea-table eclogue, and the domestic pictures in the Tatler and Spectator, with the passions existing in those times for china-ware, and Horace Walpole who was an old woman in that respect, and, in short, a thousand other memories, grave and gay, poetical and prosaical, all ready to wait upon any body who chooses to read books, like spirits at the command of the book-readers of old, who for the advantages they had over the rest of the world, got the title of Magicians. Yea, pleasant and rich is thy sight, little tea-cup (large though, at breakfast) round, smooth, and coloured;-composed of delicate earth,-like the earth, producing flowers, and birds, and men; and containing within thee thy Lilliputian ocean, which we, after sending our fancy sailing over it, past islands of foam" called "sixpences," and mysterious bubbles from below, will, giant-like, engulf,

But hold-there's a fly in.

Now why could not this inconsiderate monster of the air be content with the whole space of the heavens round about him, but he must needs plunge into this scalding pool? Did he scent the sugar? or was it a fascination of terror from the heat? "Hadst thou my three kingdoms to range in," said James the First to a fly, "and yet must needsget into my eye?" It was a good-natured speech, anda natural. It shews that the monarch did his best to get the fly out again; at least we hope so; and therefore we follow the royal example in extricating the little winged wretch, who has struggled hard with his unavailing pinions,

and become drenched and lax with the soaking.

He is on the dry clean cloth. Is he dead? No:the tea was not so hot as we supposed it :-see, he gives a heave of himself forward; then endeavours to drag a leg up, then another, then stops, and sinks down, saturated and overborne with wateriness; and

assuredly, from the inmost soul of him, he sighs (if
flies sigh, which we think they must do sometimes,
after attempting in vain, for half an hour, to get
through a pane of glass). However, his sigh is as
much mixed into joy, as fright and astonishment and a
horrible hot bath can let it be; and the heat has not
been too much for him; a similar case would have
been worse for one of us, with our fleshy bodies ;--for
see; after dragging himself along the dry cloth, he is
fairly on his legs; he smoothes himself, like a cat, first
one side then the other, only with his legs instead of
his tongue; then rubs the legs together, partly to dis-
engage them of their burthen, and partly as if he con-
gratulated himself on his escape; and now, finally,
opening his wings (beautiful privilege! for all wings,
except the bat's, seem beautiful, and a privilege, and
⚫ for envy) he is off again into the air, as if nothing
ad happened.

He may forget it, being an inconsiderate and giddy fly; but it is to us, be it remembered by our conscience, that he owes all which he is hereafter to enjoy. His suctions of sugar, his flights, his dances on the window, his children, yea, the whole House of Fly, as far as it depends on him their ancestor, will be owing to us. We have been his providence, his guardian angel, the invisible being that rescued him without his knowing it. What shall we add, reader? Wilt though laugh, or look placid and content,-humble, and yet in some sort proud withal, and not consider it as an unbecoming meeting of ideas in these our most mixed and reflective papers,-if we argue. from rescued flies to rescued human beings, and take occasion to hope, that in the midst of the struggling endeavours of such of us as have to wrestle with fault or misfortune, invisible pity may look down with a helping eye upon ourselves, and that what it is humane to do in the man, it is divine to do in that which made humanity.

(To be concluded in our next.)

TEA, COFFEE, AND CHOCOLATE.
[Extracted, by way of Appendix to our first article,
from Mr. D'Israeli's Curiosities of Literature.]

It is said, that the frozen Norwegians, on the first
sight of roses, dared not touch what they conceived
were trees budding with fire; and the natives of Vir-
ginia, the first time they seized on a quantity of gun-
powder, which belonged to the English colony, sowed
it for grain, expecting to receive a plentiful crop of
combustion by the next harvest to blow away the
whole colony.

the first period of vaccination; when some families ter-
In our recollection, strange imaginations impeded
rified by the warning of a physician, conceived their
race would end in a species of

Semibovemque virum, semivirumque bovem.
(Half-cow men, and half-men cows.)

We smile at the simplicity of the men of nature,
for their mistaken notions at their first introduction
among them of exotic novelties; and yet even in civi-
lized Europe, how long a time those whose profession,
or whose reputation, regulate public opinion, are in-
fluenced by vulgar prejudices, often disguised under
the imposing form of science! and when their ludi-
crous absurdities and obstinate prejudices enter into
the matters of history, it is then we discover that they
were only imposing on themselves and others.

It is hardly credible that on the first introduction of the Chinese leaf, which now affords our daily refreshment; or the American leaf, whose sedative fumes made it so long a universal favourite; or the Arabian berry whose aroma exhilirates its European votaries; that the use of these harmless novelties should have spread consternation among the nations of Europe, and have been anathematized by the terrors and the fictions of some of the learned. Yet this seems to have happened. Patin, who wrote so furiously against the introduction of antimony, spread the same alarm at the use of tea, which he calls "l'impertinente nouveauté du Siècles." In Germany, Hanneman considered tea-dealers as immoral members of society, lying in wait for men's purses and lives; and Dr. Duncan, in his treatise on hot liquors, suspected that the virtues attributed to tea were merely to encourage the impor

tation.

Many virulent pamphlets were published against the
use of this shrub, from various motives. In 1670, a
Dutch writer says it was ridiculed in Holland under the
plant,' says an ingenious writer, has been something
name of hay-water. 'The progress of this famous
like the progress of truth; suspected at first, though
very palatable to those who had courage to taste it;
resisted as it encroached; abused as its popularity
seemed to spread; and establishing its triumph at last,
in cheering the whole land from the palace to the
cottage, only by the slow and resistless efforts of time
and its own virtues.'

referred to on this subject, I consider little more than
The history of the tea-shrub, by Dr. Lettsom, usually

a plagiarism on Dr. Short's learned and curious diser-
tation on Tea, 1730, 4to. Lettsom has superadded the
solemn trifling of his moral and medical advice.

These now common beverages are all of recent
origin in Europe; neither the ancients, nor those of
the middle ages, tasted of this luxury. The first ac-
counts we find of the use of this shrub, are the casual
notices of travellers, who seemed to have tasted it,
and sometimes not to have liked it: a Russian Am-
bassador in 1639, who resided at the court of the Mo-
gul, declined accepting a large present of tea for the
Czar, as it would only encumber him with a com-
modity for which he had no use." The appearance of
"a black water," and an acrid taste seems not to
have recommended it to the German Olearius in 1633.
Dr. Short has recorded an anecdote of a stratagem
of the Dutch in their second voyage to China, by which
they at first obtained their tea without disbursing mo-
ney; they carried from home great store of dried sage;
and bartered it with the Chinese for tea, and received
three or four pounds of tea for one of sage; but at

length the Dutch could not export sufficient quan-
tity of sage to supply their demand.
This fact, how-
ever, proves how deeply the imagination is concerned
with our palate; for the Chinese, affected by the ex-
otic novelty, considered our sage to be more pre-
cious than their tea.

The first introduction of tea into Europe is not ascertained: according to the common accounts it came into England from Holland in 1666, when Lord Arlington and Lord Ossory brought over a small quantity, the custom of drinking tea then became fashionable, and a pound weight sold for sixty shillings. This account, however, is by no means satisfactory. I have heard of Oliver Cromwell's tea-pot in the possession of a collector, and this will derange the chronology of those writers who are perpetually copying the reseaches of others, without confirming or correcting them.

Amidst the rival contests of the Dutch and the English East India Companies, the honour of introducing its use into Europe may be claimed by both. Dr. Short conjectures that tea might have been known in England as far back as the reign of James the First, for the first fleet set out in 1600: but had the use of this shrub been known, the novelty had been chronicled among our dramatic writers, whose works are the annals of our prevalent tastes and humours. It is rather extraordinary that our East India Company should not have discovered the use of this shrub in their early adventures; yet it certainly was not known in England so late as in 1641, for in a scarce "Treatise of Warm Beer," where the title indicates the author's design to recommend hot instead of cold drinks, he refers to tea only by quoting the Jesuit Maffei's account; "that they of China do for the most part drink the strained liquor of an herb called Chia, hot." word Cha is the Portuguese term for tea retained to this day, which they borrowed from the Japanese; while our intercourse with the Chinese made us no doubt adopt their term Theh, now prevalent throughout Europe, with the exception of the Portuguese. The Chinese origin is still preserved in the term Bohea, tea which comes from the country of Vochi; and that of Hyson was the name of the most considerable Chinese

then concerned in the trade.

The

The best account of the early use and the prices of tea in England, appears in the hand bill of one who may be called our first tea-maker. This curious hand-bill bears no date, but as Hanway ascertained that the price was sixty shillings, in 1600, his bill must have been dispersed about that period.

Thomas Garway, in Exchange-alley, tobacconist and coffee-man, was the first who sold and retailed tea, recommending it for the cure of all disorders. The following shop-bill is more curious than any historical account we have :

"Tea in England hath been sold in the leaf for six pounds, and sometimes for ten pounds the pound weight, and in respect of its former scarceness and dearness it hath been only used as a regalio in high treatments and entertainments and presents thereof to princes and grandees till the year 1657. The said Garway did purchase a quantity thereof, and first publicly sold the said tea in leaf or drink, made according to the directions of the most knowing merchants into those Eastern countries. On the knowledge of the said Garway's continued care and industry in obtaining the best tea, and making drink thereof, very many noblemen, physicians, merchants, &c. have ever since sent to him for the said leaf, and daily resort to his house to drink the drink thereof. He sells tea from 16s. to 50s. a pound."

Probably tea was not in general use domestically so' late as in 1687; for in the Diary of Henry, Earl of Clarendon, he registers that "Piere Couplet supped with me, and after supper we had tea, which he said was really as good as any he had drunk in China." Had his Lordship been in the general habit of drinking tea, he had not probably made it a subject for his diary. puted between the English and the Dutch, that of coffee While the honour of introducing tea may be disremains between the English and the French. Yet an Italian intended to have occupied the place of honour; that admirable traveller Pietro della Valle, writing from Constantinople, 1615, to a Roman, his fellow-countryman, informing him that he should teach Europe in what manner the Turks took what he calls "Cahue," or as the word is written in an Arab and English pamphlet, printed at Oxford, 1659, on the "Nature of the Drink Kauhi, or Coffee." As this celebrated traveller lived to 1653, it may excite surprise that the first cup of coffee was not drank at Rome; this remains for the discovery of some member of the "Arcadian Society." Our own Purchas, at the time that Valle wrote, was Coffa," also "a pilgrim," and well knew what was which, "they drank as hot as they can endure it; it is as black as soot, and tastes not much unlike it; good they say for digestion and mirth."

"

It appears by Le Grand's "Vie privee des François," that the celebrated Thevenot, in 1658, gave coffee after dinner; but it was considered as the whim of a traveller; neither the thing itself, nor its appearance was inviting; it was probably attributed by the gay to the humour of a vain philosophical traveller. But ten years afterwards a Turkish ambassador at Paris made the beverage highly fashionable. The elegance of the equipage recommended it to the eye, and charmed the women: the brilliant porcelain cups in which it was poured; the napkins fringed with gold, and the Turkish slaves on their knees presenting it to the ladies, seated on the ground on cushions, turned the heads of the Pa

risian dames.

This elegant introduction made the exotic beverage a subject of conversation, and in 1672, an Armenian at Paris, at the fair-time, opened a coffeehouse. But the custom still prevailed to sell beer and wine, and to smoke and mix with indifferent company in their first imperfect coffee-houses. A Florentine, one Procope, celebrated in his day as the arbiter of taste in this department, instructed by the error of the Armenian, invented a superior establishment, and introduced ices; he embellished his apartment; and those who had avoided the offensive coffee-houses, repaired to Procope's; where literary men, artists, and wits resorted, to inhale the fresh and fragrant steam. Le Grand says, that this establishment holds a distinguished place in the literary history of the times. It was at the coffee-house of Du Laurent that Saurien, La Motte, Danchet, Boindin, Rousseau, &c. met; but the mild streams of the aromatic berry could not mollify the acerbity of so many rivals, and the witty malignity of Rousseau gave birth to those famous couplets on all the coffeedrinkers, which occasioned his misfortune, and his banishment.

Such is the history of the first use of coffee and its houses at Paris. We had the use, however, before even the time of Thevenot; for an English Turkish merchant brought a Greek servant in 1652, who, knowing how to roast and make it, opened a house to sell it publicly. I have also discovered his hand bill, in which he sets forth, "The vertue of the coffee

drink, first publiquely made and sold in England by Pasqua Rosee, in St. Michael's Alley, Cornhill, at the sign of his own head."

For about twenty years after the introduction of coffee in this kingdon, we find a continued series of invectives against its adoption, both for medicinal and domestic purposes. The use of coffee, indeed, seems to have excited more notice, and to have had a greater influence on the manners of the people, than that of tea. It seems at first to have been more universally used, and is still on the continent: and its use is connected with a resort for the idle and the curious: the history of coffee-houses, ere the invention of clubs,

was that of the manners, the morals, and the politics of a people. Even in its native country, the government discovered that extraordinary fact, and the use of the Arabian berry was more than once forbidden where it grows; for Ellis, in his "History of Coffee," 1774, refers to the Arabian MS. in the King of France's library, which shews that coffee-houses in Asia were sometimes suppressed. The same fate happened on its introduction into England.

"

Ameng a number of poetical satires against the use of coffee, I find a curious exhibition, according to the exaggerated notions of that day, in A cup of Coffee, or Coffee in its colours," 1663. The writer, like others of his contemporaries, wonders at the odd taste which could make coffee a substitute for Canary. "For men and Christian to turn Turks and think To excuse the crime, because 'tis in their drink! Pure English apes! ye may, for aught I know, Would it but mode-learn to eat spiders too." Should any of your grandsire's ghosts appear In your wax-candle circles and but hear The name of coffee so much called upon; Then see it drunk like scalding Phlegethon; Would they not startle, think ye, all agreed 'Twas conjuration both in word and deed; Or Catiline's conspirators, as they stood Sealing their oaths in draughts of blackest blood, The merriest ghost of all your sires would say, Your wine's much worse since his last yesterday. He'd wonder how the club had given a hop O'er tavern bars into a farrier's shop, Where he'd suppose, both by the smoke and stench, Each man a horse, and each horse at his drench. "Sure you're no poets, nor their friends, for now Should Jonson's strenuous spirit, or the rare Beaumont and Fletcher's in your round appear, They would not find the air perfum'd with one Castalian drop, nor dew of Helicon; When they but men would speak as the Gods do They drank pure nectar as the Gods drink too, .Sublimed with rich canary,-say shall then These less than coffee's self, these coffee men; These sons of nothing that can hardly make Their broth, for laughing how the jest does take, Yet grin, and give ye for the vine's pure blood A loathsome potion, not yet understood, yrop of soot, or essence of old shoes, Dasht with diurnals and the books of news." Other complaints arose from the mixture of the company in the first coffee-houses. In against coffee, or the marriage of the Turk," 1672, the writer indicates the growth of the fashion:

"

a broadside

Confusion huddles all into one scene,
Like Noah's ark, the clean and the unclean;
For now, alas! the drench has credit got,
And he's no gentleman who drinks it not.
That such a dwarf should rise to such a stature!
But custom is but a remove from nature.

In "the women's petition against coffee," 1674, they complained that "it made men as unfruitful as the deserts whence that unhappy berry is said to be brought;

This witty poet was not without a degree of prescience; the luxury of eating spiders has never indeed become" modish," bat Mons. Lalande, the French astronomer, and one or two humble imitators of the modern philosopher, have shewn this triumph over vulgar prejudices, and were epicures of this stamp.

that the offspring of our mighty ancestors would dwin dle into a succession of apes and pigmies; and on a domestic message, a husband would stop by the way to drink a couple of cups of coffee." It was now sold in convenient penny-worths; for in another poem in praise of a coffee-house, for the variety of information obtained there, it is called "a penny university."

Amidst these contests of popular prejudices, between the lovers of forsaken canary, and the terrors of our females at the barrenness of an Arabian desert, which lasted for twenty years, at length the custom was universally established; nor were there wanting some reflecting minds desirous of introducing the use of this liquid among the labouring classes of society, to wean them from strong liquors. Howel, in noticing that curious philosophical traveller, Sir Henry Blount's 'Organon Salutis,' 1659, observed that this "coffa drink hath caused a great sobriety among all nations; formerly apprentices, clerks, &c., used to take their morning draughts in ale, beer, or wine, which often made them unfit for business. Now they play the good fellows in this wakeful and civil drink. The worthy gentleman, Sir James Muddiford, who introduced the practice hereof first in London, deserves much respect of the whole nation," Here it appears, what is most probable, that the use of this berry was introduced by other Turkish merchants, besides Edwards and his servant Pasqua. But the custom of drinking coffee, among the labouring classes, does not appear to have lasted; and when it was recently even the cheapest beverage, the popular prejudices prevailed against it, and ran in favour of tea. The contrary practice prevails on the continent, where beggars are viewed making their coffee in the street. I remember seeing the large body of shipwrights at Helvoetsluys, summoned by a bell to take their regular refreshment of coffee; and the fleets of Holland were not then built by arms less robust than the fleets of Britain.*

The frequenting of coffee-houses is a custom which has declined within our recollection, since institutions of a higher character, and society itself, has so much improved within late years. These were, however, the

common assemblies of all classes of society. The mercantile man, the man of letters, and the man of fashion, had their appropriate coffee houses. The Tatler dates from either to convey a character of his subject. In the reign of Charles II. 1675, a proclamation for some time shut them all up, having become the rendezvous of the politicians of that day. Roger North has given, in his examination, a full account of this bold stroke: it was not done without some apparent respect to the British constitution, the court affecting not to act against law, for the judges were summoned to a consultation, when, it seems, the five who met did not agree in opinion. But a decision was contrived that "the retailing of coffee and tea might be an innocent trade; but as it was said to nourish sedition, spread lies, and scandalize great men, it might also be a common nuisance." A general discontent in consequence, as North acknowledges, took place, and emboldened the merchants and retailers of coffee and tea to petition, and permission was soon granted to open the houses to a certain period, under a severe admonition that the masters should prevent all scandalous papers, books, and libels, from being read in them, and hinder every person from spreading scandalous reports against the government. It must be confessed, all this must have frequently puzzled the coffee-house master to decide what was scandalous, what book was fit to be licensed to be read, and what political intelligence might be allowed to be communicated. The object of the government was, probably to intimidate, rather than to persecute, at that moment.

Chocolate the Spaniards brought from Mexico, where it was denominated Chocolatti; it was a coarse mixture of ground cocoa and Indian corn with racou; but the Spaniards liking its nourishment, improved it into a richer compound, with sugar, vanilla, and other aromatics. The immoderate use of chocolate, in the 17th century, was considered as so violent an inflamer of the passions that Joan. Fran. Rauch, published a treatise against it, and enforced the necessity of forbidding the monks to drink it; and adds, that if such an interdiction had existed, that scandal with which that holy order had been branded might have proved more groundless. This Disputatio medico dietetica de aëre et esculentis, necnon de potu, Vienna, 1624, is a rara avis among the collectors. This attack on the monks as well as on Chocolate, is said to be the cause of its scarcity; for we are told that they were so diligent in suppressing this treatise, that it is supposed not a dozen copies exist.

We had chocolate-houses in London

long after coffee-houses; they seemed to have associated something more elegant and refined in their new term than when the other had become common.Roger North thus inveighs against them: "The use of .coffee-houses seems much improved by a new invention, called chocolate houses, for the benefit of rooks and cullies of quality, where gaming is added to all the rest, and the summons of W- seldom fails; as if the devil had erected a new university, and those were the

colleges of its professors, as well as his schools of discipline." Roger North, a high tory, and attorneygeneral to James the Second, observed, however, that these rendezvous were often not entirely composed of those "factious gentry he so much dreaded;" for he says, "This way of passing time might have been

* Coffee has since become very popular in England. Editor of the London Journal.

stopped at before people had possessed themselves o some convenience from them of meeting for short despatches, and passing evenings with small expenses.' And old Aubrey, the small Boswell of his day, attributes his general acquaintance to the "modern advantage of coffee-houses in this great city, before which men knew not how to be acquainted, but with their relations and societies;" a curious statement, which proves the moral connexion with society of all seden tary recreations, which induce the herding spirit.

THE WEEK.

From Wednesday the 9th to Tuesday the 15th of July.

FIELD-PATHS.

THE days are now (or ought to be) at their finest,-a little too hot sometimes, but there is seldom too much heat in an English summer, especially for healthy people or any genuine lovers of nature. It is true, we are all apt, occasionally, to complain of heat,—to say that it is "too hot"-" dreadfully hot," &c. &c. and make use of other unthinking and ungrateful phrases; which only means, if we would reflect a little, that we do not meet the hot weather as we ought, nor seek its proper alleviations, in reasonable exercise that strengthens us, and in the enjoyment of the freshest times of day out of doors, and natural shady places. When it is cold, we long for the sun; and when the sun comes, we long for the cold; forgetting that we may turn both to excellent account by preparing for them like proper masculine men, and womanly (that is to say, gentle and joy-making) women.

Come then, let us take one of.

the most delightful of all walks,—that in a field, through the old field path,—with our eloquent friend Mr. Howitt.. There is one of his stiles before us, in the next meadow

yonder, on which we will sit awhile; and then we will

vary our walk by the wood-side, along one of those rich receptacles of wild-flowers, bushes, and magnificent dock-leaves, contemptuously called ditches; where perhaps we shall have the pleasure of hearing a running-brook.

It is

Field paths (says Mr. Howitt) are at this season particularly attractive. I love our real old English footpaths. I love those rustic and picturesque stiles opening their pleasant escapes from frequented places and dusty highways into the solitudes of nature. delightful to catch a glimpse of one on the old village green; under the old elder tree by some ancient cottage, or half-hidden by the overhanging boughs of a wood. I love to see the smooth, dry track, winding away in easy curves, along some green slope to the church-yard-to the forest-grange, or to the embowered cottage. It is to me an object of certain inspiration. It seems to invite me from noise and publicity into the heart of solitude, and of rural delight. It beckons the imagination on through green and whispering cornfields, through the short but verdant pasture, the flowering mowing grass, the odorous and sunny hayfield; the festivity of harvest; from lonely farm to farm, from village to village, by clear and mossy wells; by tinkling-brooks and deep wood skirted streams, to crofts where the daffodil is rejoicing in spring, or meadows where the blue geranium embellishes the summer way-side; to heaths with their warm elastic sward and crimson bells-the chittering of grass-hoppers,-the fox-glove, and the old gnarled oak; in short, to all the solitary haunts after which the city-pent lover of nature pants, "as the heart panteth after the waterbrooks." What is there so truly English? What is so truly linked with our rural tastes, our sweetest memories and our sweetest poetry, as stiles and footpaths? Goldsmith, Thomson, and Milton have adorned them with some of their richest wreaths. They have consecrated them to poetry and love. It is along the footpath in secluded fields, upon the stile in the embowered lane, where the wild rose and the honeysuckle are lavishing their beauty and their fragrance, that we delight to picture to ourselves rural lovers, breathing, in the dewy sweetness of summer evenings, vows still sweeter. There it is that the poet seated sends back his soul into the freshness of his youth, amongst attachments since withered by neglect, rendered painful b▾ absence or broken by death; amongst dreams and aspirations which, even now that they pronounce their own fallacy, are lovely. It is there that he gazes upon the gorgeous sunset-the evening star following with its silvery lamp the fading day, or the moon showering her pale lustre through the balmy night air-with a fancy that kindles and soars into the heavens before him; there that we have all felt the charm of woods and green fields, and solitary boughs waving in the golden sunshine, or darkening in the melancholy beauty of evening shadows. Who has not thought how beautiful was the sight of a village congregation, pouring out from their old grey church on a summer day, and streaming off through the quiet meadows, in all directions, to their homes? Or who that has visited Alpine

scenery, has not beheld with a poetic feeling, the mountaineers come winding down out of their romantic seclusions on a sabbath morning, pacing the solitary heath-tracks, bounding with elastic step down the fern clad dells, or along the course of a riotous stream, as

cheerful, as picturesque, and yet as solemn as the scenes around them?

grieve. Exactly in the same proportion as our popula-
tion and commercial habits gain upon us, do we need
all possible opportunities to keep alive in us the spirit
of nature.

The world is too much with us; late and soon,
Getting and spending, we lay waste our powers;
Little there is in nature that is ours.

Again I say, I love field paths and stues of all sorts, ay, even the most accessible piece of rustic erection ever set up in defiance of age, laziness, and obesity. How many scenes of frolic and merry confusion have I seen at a clumsy stile! What exclamations! and blushes, and fine eventual vaulting on the part of the ladies! and what an opportunity does it afford to beaux of exhibiting a variety of gallant and delicate attentions! I consider a rude stile as anything but an impediment objects of ambition, till we endanger the higher and in the course of a rural courtship.

Those good old turnstiles too can I ever forget
them? the hours I have spun round upon them when
a boy! or those in which I have almost laughed myself
to death at the remembrance of my village pedagogue's
disaster! Methinks I see him now!-the time a sultry
day, the domine a goodly person of some eighteen or
twenty stone, the scene a footpath sentinelled with
turn-stiles, one of which held him fast as in amazement
at his bulk. Never shall I forget his efforts and agonies
to extricate himself; nor his lion-like roars, which
brought some labourers to his assistance, who, when
they had recovered from their convulsions of laughter,
knocked off the top of the turn-stile, and let him go.
It is long since I saw a stile of this construction, and
I suspect the Falstaffs have cried them down. But
without a jest, stiles and footpaths are vanishing every
where. There is nothing upon which the advance of
wealth and population has made so serious an inroad.
As land has increased in value, wastes and heaths have
been parcelled out and enclosed, but seldom have foot-
paths been left. The poet and the naturalist who be-
fore had, perhaps, the greatest real property in them,
have had no allotment. They have been totally driven
out of the promised land. Goldsmith complained in
his day, that

The man of wealth and pride
Takes up a space that many poor supplied;
'Space for his lake, his park's extended bounds,
Space for his horses, equipage and hounds;
The robe that wraps his limbs in silken sloth,
Has robbed the neighbouring fields of half their growth:
His seat, where solitary sports are seen,
Indignant spurns the cottage from the green.

And it is but too true that the pressure of contiguous pride has driven further, from that day to this, the public from the rich man's lands. "They make a solitude and call it peace." Even the quiet and picturesque footpath that led across his fields, or stole along his woodside, giving to the poor man with his burden, a cooler and nearer cut to the village, is become a nuisance. One would have thought that the rustic labourer, with his scythe on his shoulder, or his bill-hook and hedging-mittens in his hand, the cottage dame in her black bonnet and scarlet cloak, the neat village maiden in the sweetness of health and simplicity, or the boy strolling along full of life and curiosity, might have had sufficient interest in themselves, for a cultivated taste not merely to tolerate but to welcomepassing occasionally at a distance across the park or wood, as objects agreeably enlivening the stately solitude of the hall. But they have not; and what is more, those are commonly the most jealous of pedestrian trespassers, who seldom visit their own estates, but permit the seasons to scatter their charms around their villas and rural possessions without the heart to enjoy, or even the presence to behold them.

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How often have

I myself been arrested in some long frequented dale,
in some spot endeared by its own beauties and the
fascinations of memory, by a board exhibiting in giant
characters, STOPPED BY AN ORDER OF SESSIONS,"
and denouncing the terrors of the law upon trespassers!
This is a little too much. I would not be querulous
for the poor against the rich. I would not teach them
to look with an envious and covetous eye upon their
villas, lawns, cattle, and equipage; but when the path
of immemorial usage is closed, when the little streak,
almost as fine as a mathematical line, along the wealthy
man's ample field is grudgingly erased, it is impossible
not to feel indignation at the pitiful monopoly. Is
there no village champion to be found bold enough to
put in his protest against these encroachments,-to
assert the public right?-for a right it is as authentic
as that by which the land is held, and as clearly ac-
knowledged by the laws. Is there no local "Hampden
with dauntless breast" to "withstand the petty tyrants'
cf the field," and to save our good old foot-paths? If
not, we shall in a few years be doomed to the highways
and the hedges, to look, like Dives, from a sultry region
of turnpikes, into a pleasant one of verdure and foliage
which we may not approach. Already the stranger,
if he lose his way, is in jeopardy of falling into the horrid
fangs of a steel-trap; the botanist enters a wood to
gather a flower, and is shot with a spring-gun; death
haunts our dells and copses, and the poet complains,
in regretful notes, that he

Wanders away to the field and the glen,
Far as he may for the gentlemen.

I am not so much of a poet, and so little of a poli-
tical economist, as to lament over the progress of popu-
lation. It is true, that
green fields and fresh beautiful tracts swallowed up in
see with a poetical regret,
cities; but my joy in the increase of human life and
happiness, far outbalances that imaginative pain. But
it is when I see unnecessary and arbitrary encroach-
ments upon the rural privileges of the public, that I

We give ourselves up to the artificial habits and better feelings and capacities of our being; and it is alone to the united influence of religion. literature, and nature, that we must look for the preservation of our moral nobility. Whenever, therefore, I behold one of our old field-paths closed, I regard it as another link in the chain which Mammon is winding round us,-another avenue cut off, by which we might fly to the lofty sanctuary of nature, for power to withstand him.

BIRTH-DAYS.

July 9th (21st O. S.) in London according to some, at Prior, son of a joiner,-one of the liveliest and airiest Wimborne, in Dorsetshire, according to others, Matthew gyrist, but more acquainted with gallantry than love, of the wit-poets of England, an excellent court paneand far inferior in sentiment and natural freshness to the leader of this race of authors, Sir John Suckling. He wrote, however, one truly loving verse, if no other. It is in his "Solomon." The monarch is speaking of a female slave, who had a real affection for him :

And when I call'd another, Abra came.

July 10 (22d O. S.) At Exeter House, [in London, (on the site of the present Exeter Street) Lord Shaftesbury, the philosopher. He was an honest man and politician, an elegant but fastidious writer, and could discern and forcibly expose the vulgar errors of a creed, though a little more philosophy was wanting to enable him to get at the heart of its mystery. In one of his letters is an extraordinary passage, not much calculated to delight the lady whom he married. He said he found marriage "not so much worse" than celibacy as he had expected!

Same day (1707) at Maestricht, in the Netherlands, Lyonnet the naturalist, eminent for resolving to obtain son of a protestant clergyman of French origin, Peter a reputation, and for obtaining it, by means of a work in some one single object of minute enquiry; for German writer, Frederick Matthison, has left a notice which purpose he selected a species of caterpillar. A of him in his Letters, translated by Miss Plumptre, closing anecdote, however, about the rope-dancing is which may not be uninteresting to the reader. The not so "great" a thing, as the writer seems to take it for. It was a waste of energy, upon a matter not worthy of emulation.

"My host (says Matthison, speaking of the celebrated
read his works to me every morning, and we have now
Bonnet, with whom he was on a visit) continues to
aloud, and when any passage occurs which he thinks
entered upon his " Contemplation de la Nature." I read
precision which he so peculiarly possesses. We dwelt for
wants explanation, he gives it with the clearness and
a long time yesterday on the Phalana cossus, and on the
work which Lyonnet has written on that animal, with
history of the origin and progress of this work is very
which I now for the first time became acquainted. The
extraordinary. Lyonnet, who unites to the most ardent
passion for natural history, uncommon perseverance,
excessive thirst for fame, and profound observation,
fectly new, and to produce a work single of its kind.
determined to strike into a path which should be per-
Polypus, but through an extraordinary caprice of
He first thought of writing on the Aphis, then on the

his rival, in the latter Trembley. The question then,
chance, he found that in the former Bonnet would be
culties should be combined, as effectually to preclude
him from any danger of competition, and this point he
was to find another subject wherein so many diffi-
gained by engaging in the dissection of the Phalana

cossus.

But on applying to different persons to under-
take the designs for the plates, his expectations seemed
so out of all bounds, that it was impossible to answer
them, and every one shrunk back affrighted from the
learn drawing, in which art he made, in a short time,
task.
He therefore immediately applied himself to
such a rapid progress, that he was able to execute de-
signs incredibly difficult with a delicacy and exact-
ness astonishing to every one, both connoisseurs and
predicament with the engravers, as before with the
practitioners. But now he was precisely in the same
draughtsmen; no one had sufficient confidence in his
he was compelled, therefore, to learn this art also, in
own abilities as to hope that he could satisfy him, and
gravings to his works are of a very distinguished ex-
which he soon arrived at such perfection, that the er.-
cellence. Lyonnet's portrait is much more deserving
of the inscription, "Man can do whatever he is resolved

on," than the figure of that long forgotten Kraftmann❤ in Lavater's Physiognomy.

"The following trait of Lyonnet, as it is quite appropriate, may serve further to illustrate the character of zo great a man. A rope-dancer of the Hague, whose exquisite dexterity was the astonishment of the public, excited Lyonnet's emulation to such a degree that he exclaimed, "This man has no more muscle than myself, nor is formed after any other manner; I must therefore be able to do whatever he can!" Immediately he had a rope stretched in his court-yard, and applied himself with such unwearied assiduity to rope-dancing, that he at last left his astonished master very far behind."

ROMANCE OF REAL LIFE.

XXII. HISTORY OF THE LATE MR. COMBE. THOUGH a moment's reflection tells us that "Romances of Real Life," must be daily occurring round about us, yet we are hardly the less surprised to find them true, especially in those ranks of life where we are accustomed to expect the reasonableness and regularity that seem the natural consequences of an educated understanding. We are even, perhaps, for the latter reason, more astonished at eccentric departures from conventional life, and changes from gen. tility to vagabondism, than at the more tragical results of bad and violent passions, the wilfulness of which defies speculation, or throws us into general reflections on the mysteries of one's common nature; whereas there seems no reason, at first sight, why a intercourse, should think it worth his while to depart man, bred up in the comfort and convenience of refined unaccommodating a scale. A reason however there is. from it, and play the part of a madman on so poor and It is to be found (if it be not actual madness), in an egotism and a vivid though weak imagination,-one over lively state of the blood, acting upon a strong the moment, at the expense of all the future moments that has a quick sense of the novelty and sufficiency of of life. Persons of this temperament and turn of mind, thing superior to cleverness; and it manifests an ununless they stop short while young, never end in any shew themselves capable of the industry and regular usual portion of natural goodness in them, if they ever conduct of Mr. Combe, even in old age.

The present curious account of this gentleman, which could not have been better written, is given by Siddons. The narrative runs well to the last; and the Mr. Campbell in one of the notes to his Life of Mrs. surprise, at the close of it, is truly dramatic.

Mr. Combe's history (says Mr. Campbell) is not less remarkable for the recklessness of his early days, than, for the industry of his maturer age, and the late period of life at which he attracted popularity by his talents. He was the nephew of a Mr. Alexander, an Alderman of the city of London; and as he was sent, first to Eton College, and afterwards to Oxford, it may be acquisition of this fortune, he entered himself of the inferred, that his parents were in good circumstances. His uncle left him sixteen thousand pounds. On the Temple, and in due time was called to the bar. On Lord Chancellor Northington. But his ambition was one occasion he even distinguished himself before the to shine as a man of fashion, and he paid little attentall stature and fine appearance, procured him the tion to the law. Whilst at the Temple, his courtly appellation of Duke Combe. Some of the most excludress, his handsome liveries, and it may be added, his sive ladies of fashion had instituted a society which was called the Coterie, to which gentlemen were admitted beautiful woman, but too fond of gaudy colours, and Duke Combe. One evening Lady Archer, who was a as visitors. Among this favoured number was the the Coterie, when Lord Lyttleton, the graceless son of who had her face alwavs lavishly rouged, was sitting in toxicated, and stood before Lady Archer for several an estimable peer, entered the room evidently inminutes with his eyes fixed on her. The lady manifested great indignation, and asked why he thus Lyttleton," what I can compare you to, in your gaudy annoyed her. "I have been thinking," said Lord colouring, and you give me no idea, but that of a drunken peacock." The lady returned a sharp answer, on which he threw the contents of a glass of wine in her face. All was confusion in a moment; but though several noblemen and gentlemen were present, none of them took up the cause of the insulted female till Mr. Combe came forward, and, by his resolute behaviour, obliged the offender to withdraw. His spirited conduct on this occasion, gained him much credit among the circles of fashion; but his grace's diminishing

* "Kraftmann," from having been a term much in use in Germany as an epithet of distinction, is now become a mere cant phrase, and chiefly applied to an author who affects any pecu liarity of expression, particularly the use of very high sounding words; or who makes a great boast of his superior attainments, lator: and having as he thinks, thrown off all prejudices.-The Trans-;

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