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Vol. V.]
Tour in the Vicinity of Dublin,

545 fidering the 3d of June, 1796, the æra of agricultural character of Herefordshire, their triunph over the powerful influence which is well known to abound with the of great families, and of their asserting apple tree, the pride of that county, and and obtaining their independence, had with the oak tree., A circle of oak leaves, an: appropriate medal struck, which I an apple tree, and plough, are, therefore,

devices properly illustrative of this chaThe figure of a buli has long been re racter. The fimplicity and appropriateceived as fymbolical of the dullness or nefs of this medal render it unnecessary. tameness of the English character. On

to offer any more cbservations, the Face of the medal, therefore, appears I Mall be happy, fir, if to the excellent a bull breaking its chain, and trainpling medal Tent you from Edinburgh, you them under its feet. The inscription on Thall see reason to add this. I remain, the edge, or, as it is called, the LEGEND, respectfully, yours,

G. DYER, is fimply Hereforddhire. The exergue, June 3, 1796.

[The present Eney was sent to the Editor The reverse is descriptive of the nearly a twelvemonth ago, but was miñaid.)

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TOUR IN THE VICINITY OF DUBLIN,

PERFORMED IN THE AUTUMN OF 1797.

[Continued from the Magazine for June.] THE next house which claims any at roof, decorated with some ornaments of

tention as an architectural front, in Code's artificial stone-manufactory at Dublin, is Lord Powerscourt's, in Wilo Westminster-bridge, from whence they Jiam ftreet; the architecture is sound, were carried thither, as likewile his lord and not devoid of taste; it has a large thip’s arms in basso-relievo, placed in a ruftic gateway upon either side, but its pediment in the north front; but such a being situated in one of the narrowest house, in and upon such an ill. chosen spor, streets, together with one of the most is the astonishment of every person who crowded meat markets in that city, being sees it, even of common taste : it is, bewithin a few feet of the hall door, renders fides, bespattered upon all fronts with it almost wholly unplcasant, and unwor- mottos, which makes it appear extremely thy of notice.

vulgar : in a freize immediately below the The marquis of Waterford's house, in cornice, in the principal front, is engraved, Marlborough-street, is a good, plain, in capital letters, SIT, SITI, LÆÆTAN. stone-fronted building, detached from the TUR.; and in the freize of a small porstreet by a heavy wall, but it has a space tico over the hall-door, in the same front, of ground in the rise, forming a lawn and is also engraved, in large letters, OTIUM fhrubbery, and occupied by offices, &c. of CUM DIGNITATÈ. This is rendered 'not less than four acres in the whole. The the more ludicrous, by a circumstance former beauty of this situation is almost which presented just at the time of this entirely destroyed, by the number of motto being exhibited, namely, that of the houses recently built in that vicinity, present Lord Chancellor of Ireland havwhich, at present, nearly surround it. ing declared, in the House of Peers, his

Lord Aldborough is now building, in a intention of moving for a censure upon fituation the most swampy, and one of the Lord Aldborough, for mal-practice ; this lowest levels in Dublin (called the North intention, however, the Chancellor waved, Strand), a very handsome house, as to ex but, neverthelels, ordered his Majesty's ternal appearance ; the north or principal Attorney-General in that kingdom, to front is of Irish granite, or mountain. prosecute Lord Aldborough for a libel Hone, which is of a very durable texture, against the dignity of parliament, and his and of a very bright colour, being much station, which was accordingly done in whiter than Portland stone, and of a obedience to that order and his lordship grain which works perfectly neat and was found guilty of the same in the court Tharp, as far as is requisire for mouldings, of King's-Bench, in last Michaelmas cornices, &c. but not for ornamental carv. Term. There is erecting, close to the ings; the other three fronts are of a com- principal front of this house, a building polition of plaister laid upon brick walls, which, from its ftrange appearance, inand are intended to resemble stone afhlers; duced me to enquire for what it was in5. сre is a neat balustrade surrounding the tended? when the workmen answered, MONTHLX Mag. No. XXXIII.

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546
Tour in the Vicinity of Dublin. »

[Sup: “* à Play-borse, please s'oxir bonoun;" it is joined to the sea, and also into each of meaning a theatre; it would, perhaps, be the graving docks, in a very elegant unfair to call all this either madness or barge ; after which his excellency confully, but something like one or the ferred the honour of knighthood upon the other, or both, it certainly not strongly chairman of the Grand Canal Company, resembles.

Mr. Macartney (now Sir John), an emi. The city of Dublin has been highly rent attorney of Dublin. improved within the lalt two years, by the The · Pont ensemble of the city of completion of a very great undertaking, Dublin had been

for the last ten years, namely, docks of great magnitude, now in a daily habit of improvement, but finished by the company of undertakers seems to have received a check within the of the grand canal. The touo, or rather last two years, from the aweful hand of one great fioating-dock (there being no terrific folemnity, which seems to be eleJock dividing them), the only division vated and suspended for the purpose of being a drawbridge of a peculiarly light, striking fome decided blow, more wonderyet durable contruction, is capable of ful, if poffible, than is daily occurring in containing Soo fail of merchant-lips, and the European world. give sufficient space for each to carry on The general appearance of the city of their trade with ample room ; there are Dublin (which is about two miles and a belides attached to this dock, three grav- half long, and one and a half broad) is exing docks for building or repairing thif- tremely beautiful, from the number of ping; the dimensions of the largest is 180 public buildings, &c.; the principal tireets fect long by fixty fuer wide ; and they ap are well paved and lighted, and the fiagpear to me to be built upon the same im. ged way at either side, with fine excepproved construction as that of the great tions, broad and tolerably clean, which dock at Portsmouth, which I remember is a difficult matter to preserve, from the to have seen in the year 1795, a little almost continual wetpess of the climate ; after it was finished. The walls which but the inferior streets are equally filthy inclose, or, in other words, the einbank- and diabolical. The places of that city ments of these docks, are built in the which form squares, are St. Stephen's most perfect and durable manner, and Green, in the centre of which is an reflect intinite honour upon the spirit of equestrian ftatue of George the Second, the Grand Canal Company of Dublin. finely executed in copper, and elevated This inland navigation is now so far com upon a large pedestal; the ground in this pleted, as to form a perfect water car- square, being one mile in circumference, riage from St. George's Channel, or the is occupied by cartle grazing in the winter Irilh Sea, at the eastern side of Dublin, season, and laid down as meadow in the into the river Shannon, which empties summer, the produce of which belongs to itself into the Atlantic Ocean, at the the lord mayor of Dublin, for the time western side of Ireland, and thus com- being. This square might be made much pletely intersects the whole kingdom inore beautiful, by being inclosed with ihrough its centre.

iron railing, which is now only by an These docks were, upon the 234 of ugly and uneven parapet wall. April, 1796 (being St. George's day), Merrion-square, delightfully fituated, opened with much pomp and ceremony, in mot of the houses having a view of Dublin the presence of his excellency Earl Cam- Bay and Wicklow Mountains; the centre den, the present Lord Lieutenant of Ire- is inclosed by an iron palisado, erected land, the Countess Camden, and a vast upon a handsome cut-stone plinth and concourse of nobility, and others; bis base, and a neat thrubbery running round Majesty's yacht, the Dorset, commanded the whole, immediately withinside the by tir Alexander Scombergh, first entered, railing; the houses are all of a very large with all her colours flying, displaying the fize, much uniformity has been preserved royal standard, and firing a royal falure of in buiiding them; and the appearance twenty-one guns, all the revenue cutters altogether is highly improved by the rear then in Dublin doing rhe fame, as they of Leinster-house, and lawn, forming the followed in succession according to rank. weft side of this square. The Earl and Countess of Camden, with Rutland-square already described, from their suite, then went round the great its lofty trees and handsome walks, situated floating dock, as well as into each of the upon the declivity of a hill, adds much locks (which were then, in form, named to the beauty of Dublin ; and Mountjoyafter Lord and Lady Camden), by which square, not yet finished, but began upon

Vol. V.]
Tour in the Vicinity of Dublin.

547 piece of ground so eminently and beauti- they must emigrate for existence. A fofully situated, as to command various de- reigner is always preferred by the Irish lightful prospects.

nobility. Hospitality reigns throughout the city The Phoenix Park, belonging to the with as inúch profufion as in the rest of crown (and which takes its name from a the kingdom ; the people of fashion can lofty pillar in white marble, of the Corin. no where be found more refined and thian order, with a phoenix on the top), fplendid; the middle order too much is situated at the western extremity of (I fear) imitate their superiors, as to lux- Dublin, extending west ward upwards of ury of the table, cards, balls, and routs ; three miles, and about two from north to the wives and children of persons in south; in this park is the phoenix lodge, bunnels, shop-keepers, &c. afTuine and which was purchased by government affect all the airs of the beau monde ; and, about the year 1782, for the summer reti. when a man in business has accumulated dence of the lord lieutenants ; it is nothing a very few thousand pounds, he is induced more than a neat, plain, brick 'building, by the influence of this baneful example, but the rooms are conveniently disposed, and the additional entreaties of his wife one of which is a very spacious saloon ; and children, to set up his carriage, take the offices projecting on either side are a more expensive house in town, a country joined to the hou!e on the north front by lodge and demesne, and become a private semicircular sweeps, and the south front gentleman retired froin business, just at a commands a fine view of the adj.cent time when wisdom would say, begir, and country, and the Wicklow Mountains. with your present stock arrive at wealth. There is annexed to this lodge about 100

The working people, and all the lower acres of this park, inclosed and laid out order, are ruined by an unceasing habit of in a demelie, gardens, &c; adjacent to devouring a liquid poison, called whiskey ; this there are also two other houses, purthis fpirit, which is diftilied from grain, is chased by government at the same time, of such strength, that nine pennyworch is one for the summer residence of the lord sufficient to produce intoxication, so pre- lieutenant's chief secretary, the other for valent, that to find a sober work man, or the secretary of the civil department; to labourer, upon a Sunday, or Monday, is a both of these is also annexed an inclosed rarity, nay almost a curiosity; and thus is part of this park laid out with great taste ; this useful class of society likely to conti- and as all expences in these places are denue in this truly wretched and deplorable frayed by the public, it is not to be wonstate, until the humanity of the Irish le- dered that the improvements are ungislature shall condescend to abandon a part cealing. of the revenue arising from the distilleries, In this park is the Salute Battery, on for the preservation of the peoples morals, which is erected twenty-two pieces of and subititute a more whol, Tome beverage.cannon, which are fired upon all occasions

England was almost as bad in this re of public rejoicing; and a little more to spect, previous to the palling of what is the westward is the magazine for containcalled the Gin A&t.

ing ammunition, &c. for his majelly's The only public entertainment in Dub- forces, a strong fortification, alvvays occu, lin is a badly-attended theatre, open about pied by an officer's guard of the Royal eight months in the year; and Afley's Irish artillery, and latterly considerably troop of equestrians for three months in augmented. In the eastern part of this the winter season.

park there has been, a few years since, Vice has not arrived at that pitch of erected a limple, bue beautiful building, audacity in Dublin, as in London ; a an'infirmary for the soldiery, which is woman of eafy virtue would not be suffere most pleasingly fituated upon an elevated ed to mix with the company in the lower piece of ground, and adds much to the boxes of the theatre, they must go aloft ; - tout ensembleof this charming Spot, nor is the Cyprian tribe there either pro- from which you have a view of the city portionably numerous, or alluring; the and bay of Dublin. This extensive place Irish women are characteristically virtu- being open to the public, is much freous; and thould a woman in that country quented by equestrians, as well as pedelo deviate from that path, she is sure to have trians; and here are performed all milia the unremitting allistance of many good- tary reviews. natured friends to obtain full credit. In the summer of 1788, a camp was

Genius in Ireland lays dorinant; there formed in this park, by direction of the is no encouragement for the fine arts and present Marquis of Buckingham, who sciences; and whenever such dawn there, was then lord lieutenant of Ireland, as is

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548

Tour in the Vicinity of Dublin.

(Sup. likewise, at this time (September, 1797), pump is placed a handsome urn. There another camp formed by direction, and is a rural thatched fear for the water under the immediate inspection of Earl drinkers, erected in a space which has Camden, the present chief governor of been allowed to be taken off the demesne Ireland. The principal part of the woods of the late Rt. Hon. Agmontifham Vesey, in this place, which are now very conf. now inhabited by Major Vesey, and is a derable, were planted by direction of the beautiful villa on the banks of the river Earl of Chesterfield, when lord lieutenant Liffcy; the house, which, in general, is of Ireland, about the year 1745 ; it is called Lucan House, was finished in the well stocked with deer, and the whole is year 1780, it has an elegant, but fimple, inclosed by a stone wall.

Ionic front, four columns of that order From the western gate of this park, supporting the entabliture and pediment; the approach to which commands a view the hall is adorned with pillars, and a of a most beautiful valley, taking in the frieze of the fame order, enriched with villages of Chapel-izod and Palmerstown, medallions from the designs nf Angelica through which the river Liffey grandly Kauffman. The late Agmendilham glides, forming different cascades, and Veley, who was well known among the the whole terminated by the finelv-situated professors of the fine arts in his time, as a house of Lord Donoug!ımore. You enter patron and a man of science, having upon the top of Knock maroon Hill, a vil- always been extremely partial to the lage about three miles distant from Dube works of Mrs. Angelica, that charming lin, conimanding a most delightful pro. artist, has, in testimony for that complispect; and, descending more to the west- ment, dedicated some of her finest pro. ward, you enter one of the most beauti- ductions to him, as a mark of her respect fully-situated roads perhaps in the world, and esteem. The apartments are in a called the low road to Lucan, being about suitable style of simple elegance, the garfour miles in length; it is through a dens are laid out with great taste, the winding valley on the right hand, of which fituation is low, lady, and fequeftered, is, for the most part, a very high hill, but extremely pleasant, being, in fome richly cultivated, and from its fouthern degree, a continuation of that delightful aspect is extenlively planted with straw- valley I have before described; the river berries, which fruit it produces in great Liffey runs on one fide of the grounds abundance, and in constant succession, for near two miles, the high-road confines from May until September, boih months them on the other, and though this makes inclusive.

them narrow, they do not want sufficient The road is shadowed by plantations of variety. oak, elm, and ash trees, and all along the On the oppofite bank of the river is left hand, from Knockmaroon, is the St. Catherines, the feat of David La river Liffey filently flowing its course, the Pouche, jun. «q. formerly occupied by grandeur of which is sometimes inter. the Earl of Lanesborougii, a beautiful rupted by mill-weirs crossing the river, villa ; it had been suffered, for many but which amply compensate the feast of years, to fall into decay, but, in the year the eye, by the cascades which they form ; 1792, was purchased by Mr. La Touche, and hence it is, that the navigation of the jun, the present proprietor, who repaired river Liffey is, in this part, impeded. and beautified the house and grounds, Farther to the left hand, and to the end the house is plain, but roomy and conveof this road, beyond the river, the ground nient, and contains a great variety of fine rises in a gradual afceut; in fore parts paintings and original drawings, brought next the water are mills, in others bleach- by that young gentleman from Italy, and greens for linens, but, für ihe most part, other parts of the continent, a few years the lide of the hill presents the highly since, when upon his travels ; also Tome decorated improvements of Lord Leitrim, fculprure; among which is an incomparLord Carhampton, and Lord Pery, which ,able parian marble statue of a Cupid, four terminating by a bridge, you arrive at the feet fix inches high ; this óbef d'ouvre village of Lucan, situated betiveen fix and of sculpture is placed upon

round leven miles west from Dublin. Here is pedeftal, brought from Florence, of most the celebrated Lucan Spa, much resorted curious workmanship. The grounds are to, and deemed extremely efficacious in fituated upon the fide of a hill, having a scorbutic and nervous complaints ; the fouthern aspect, and exhibiting as much {pa has lately been decorated, and is now variety as the extent will permit; these, Meltered by a building, forming a ninegon and the oppositę grounds of Mr. Vesey, neatly executed; and upon the top of the being connected and divided by a rural

woodco

Vol. V.) Tour in the Vicinity of Dublin.

549 wooden-bridge and the river Liffey, form the twenty-fifth day of August

, 1797, a most delightful valley:

saw upwards of one hundred salmon leap The town of Lucan is small, very neat, this fall in the space of two hours. These and clean, and, in the summer, much in- filh are taken in great abundance near habited by perfons resorting there for the Dublin, by Sir William Worthington, benefit of the spa, and for whose accome proprietor of a falmon-fishery there, from modation there has been an excellent whence the citizens of Dublin are mostly hotel erected within these three years, in ai all times supplied with live salmon, of addition to the many lodging-houses al. nearly whatever fize they send for, at fixready in the town.

pence per pound, the inore especially if About a mile westward of Lucan is such is bespoke in the preceding evening another neat and beautiful village, called of the day they are wanted. Leixlip, principally inhabited by an hum Upon that side of the river Liffey, op. ble set of people, who, in addition to their polite to this cataract, is the seat of industry in husbandry, let lodgings in the Charles Croker, Esq. highly decorated, summer season, to such persons as resort and laid out to the belt advanage. Upon there for the benefit of the Lucan Spa, the fide of a richly planted hill, almost and thus obtain a decent livelihood ; there immediately opposite the fall, is erected a is, in this town, a good inn or tavern, for very handsome gothic temple, which comtravellers, and a post-office.

mands a full view of the salmon leap, and The castle of Leixlip is an old plain adds much to the beauty of this charming brick building, partly gothic, formerly the scene; here is also a rural cottage, to seat of General Sandford, now mostly oc- which many companies relort, and bring cupied as a barrack. The grounds being refreshments. Fishing nets are placed in diversified by several hills are extremely, this cottage, so as to form window-curbeautiful, and the entrance to them from tains in feltoons; the utmost liberality is the town of Leixlip exceedingly fo ; in a granted to ladies and gentlemen, to ride part of this demesne is a most beautiful or drive through these grounds, and remarkable spot, called the Salmon At the distance of about half a mile Leap, to which you approach from the from this place is the celebrated manlion caftle, by a walk at the fide of the river, of the Right Hon. Thomas Conolly, at richlý sadowed by old oak, beech, and Castletown, nine miles west from Dubash trees.

This salmon leap is a water lin. Permission is given to all decent perfall, or rather cataract, occasioned by a fons to drive through this demelne, which rock which in that place runs across the extends above three miles in different dichannel of the river Liffey, about eighteen rections, the one is towards the town of feet high; the top of this ridge of rocks Maynooth, the other towards the town of is passable when the water is low, and Celbridge; but the only time at which with the assistance of a ruined arch, a the public is permitted to view the boule communication is formed with the oppo. is upon Sundays, between the hours of. fite side of the river, the seat of Charles eleven and three o'clock ; but perinillion Croker, Esq. the breadth of the whole is is given at any time to ladies or gentleabout one hundred and eighty feet. In men who make application for that pur. floods which fall from the mountains, pose. The house is a most splendid manthis cataract's height is fometimes en- fion, large and spacious, the stair-case excreased to thirty feet. The falmon ge. ceedingly magnificent, the great saloon nerally begin to run in March or April, very superb, and containing many line and to return in August and September, paintings, with some excellent sculpture ; when many persons frequent this place at each fide of the house the out-offices to see them leap. Soon as they arrive at are connected by a semicircular colo. the bortom of the fall, they rise just above nade; the ascent to the hall door is by the water for near half a minure, as if to grand stone steps, about twenty in numobserve the height and distance, then ber, fifty feet wide, and a balustrade at sunking, they presently dart îtraight up each side, projecting boldly from the house from the surface, shaking their fins and into the lawn; upon each side of the hall tails with a quick motion, and often clear door, when you ascend these steps, is a the leap at the first spring ; but frequent- green garden chair, each capable of afly the force of the falling water throws fording rest to fix persons. The architect them back upon the thelving rocks, from to this building was Gafields, who fome whence they leap back again, and wait years since erected many of the best buildsome time before they make a second at- ings in Dublin, and its vicinity. Within tempt. The writer of these theets, upon these few years, Lady Louila Conolly,

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