141° 17' 50". They experienced great difficulty in overcoming the repugnance of the natives to their landing, but finally succeeded even in inducing them to lead them to their huts. They found these extremely rude, and the inhabitants barbarous. They saw no women, and on inquiring for them, were informed, that the natives comprehended the motive of their visit: "You inhabit," said they, "an island without any women, and you want some." The inhabitants of all these islands speak the Tahiti language. At Otooho, north-west of Wytoohee about twelve miles, the natives made a more sturdy resistance to their landing. Those who succeeded in reaching the shore were seized and shoved off into the surf, but without doing them any other harm. The squadron then bore away for Raraka, sailing in open order, and lying to at night. On the 29th, a new island was discovered in latitude 15° 42' 25" S., long. 144° 38′ 45" W. It proved to be uninhabited, but to have been recently visited by a party of pearl fishers. They obtained here many specimens of plants, and added largely to the collection of natural history. Captain Wilkes called this Ring Island, from the name of the man who first discovered it from the mast-head. On making the land of Ravaka, a party of na tives was discovered waving a Tahitian flag,-three horizontal stripes, red, white and red. These people formed a striking contrast with the inhabitants of the Disappointment Islands, which they had just left. The missionaries had been at work here, and the savage was changed into a reasonable creature. If, says Captain Wilkes, the missionaries had effected nothing else, they would deserve the thanks of all those who roam over the wide expanse of ocean, and incur its many unknown and hidden dangers. Here all shipwrecked mariners would be sure of kind treatment, and a share of the few comforts these people possess. No savage mistrust or fear were seen here. They found on the island a Tahitian missionary. About two hundred people were counted, belonging, for the most part, to Tahiti and Anaa, or Chain Island. They were at Ravaka on a shelling voyage. They navigate from island to island in large double

canoes.

The squadron discovered a new island, called by the natives Kawahee, which they named Vincennes Island. Its south point is in latitude 15° 59' 48", long. 145° 09' 30". It was found to be sixteen miles long and ten wide. They

saw no inhabitants. They next visited Aratia or Carlshoff Island, where they were kindly received by the few inhabitants they saw. Some indifferent water was procured here.

The squadron next directed its course to the King George's group, and after making the most southern island, the Vincennes and Peacock bore away to the westward for the doubtful island of Waterlandt. It was discovered, and the few natives found on it were very friendly. They called the island Manhii, and the author supposes it to be the Waterlandt of Schauten and le Maire, and the Wilson's Island of the Duff. They then visited another island, to which the natives give the name of Ahii,-to which Capt. Wilkes added that of Peacock, "to mark that its correct position was first determined by the expedition." All these islands were examined and surveyed, and in order to extend the observations as much as possible, the Peacock was dispatched to Aurulua or Rurick islands, with directions to examine them, while the Vincennes proceeded to Dean's Island, which was found to be in 147° 58′ 34′′ W. long., and 15° 5′ 15′′ S. latitude. When off the western point of this island, Krusenstein's Island was seen to the westward, and the passage effected between it and Nairsa or Dean's Island. This passage is more than twelve miles wide, and free from danger. On the morning of the 9th Sept., the Vincennes was in sight of Metia or Aurora Island, the north end of which is in 15° 39′ 45" S. lat., and 148° 13' 15" W. long. Its aspect was different from all the other islands hitherto seen; "it was a coral island uplifted, exposing its formation very distinctly. On landing and measuring its height, it proved to be two hundred and fifty feet. The coral shelf is five hundred feet wide, extending to the north side of the island, and gradually diminishing in width until it loses itself in the western end. The natives, a fine-looking race, were delighted to see them. On landing, these were found in their native dresses; but being desirous to do honor to their guests, they shortly after appeared in the cast-off garments obtained from vessels trading there.

"One might have believed," says Capt. Wilkes, "the contents of all the old clothes-shops of one of our cities had been distributed among them: storm pea-jackets, light summer pantaloons, vests, capes of overcoats, bell-crowned hats, checked and red flannel shirts, most of them torn and worn threadbare; while the women had smeared themselves with cocoa-nut oil and turmerie, giving them a bright orange cast. Their heads were adorned with flowers, and

they evidently considered themselves in their holiday attire. They had an abundance of pigs and poultry."

Several portions of the Scriptures were found among them, and many of them could read and write. They possessed no spears, or clubs, or arms of any kind, and a native missionary told them that, in times past, they had "all war— but now, all was peace." This happy condition they attributed to the missionaries. They were entertained with cocoa-nuts, baked taro, and bread-fruit, and purchased an abundant supply of fruits and vegetables. They were glad, however, to leave the island, being seriously annoyed by the flies, which were in immense numbers in all the inhabited islands of this group.

The Vincennes arrived at Tahiti on the 16th, and found the Porpoise in Matavai Bay. On the 12th, the Peacock entered the harbour, and on the 14th the Flying Fish arrived, having visited King George's group, and passed to Manhii and Ahii, round the north side of Nairza or Dean's Island, to Tahiti; thus completing the survey of the Paumotu group. Capt. Wilkes gives a list of fifteen islands, the largest of which, the Anaa, is said to contain five thousand inhabitants; Manga Reva, or Gambier, two thousand; and the whole together, ten thousand.

On approaching Tahiti, the author was disappointed at the appearance of the island from the sea. He looked in vain for the verdant groves, which other navigators have painted in such glowing colours as clothing its slopes. He acknowledges, however, that on a nearer approach, the vegetation, extending up the steep surface of the cliffs,-the lofty peaks and wall-faced mountains, covered with vines and creeping plants,-the low belt of verdure, dotted with the tropical trees peculiar to these islands, rising from a quiet girdle of water, which is surrounded by a line of breakers dashing in snow-white foam upon the coral reefs that encircle it, produce a singularly beautiful landscape, especially striking from its contrast with the barren coast of Peru. The island is of volcanic origin.

On their casting anchor, the vessel was surrounded by the natives, all clamoring for admittance on board,-a favor very properly denied to all but the chiefs; upon which they all claimed this distinction, and it became necessary to exclude all but the great chiefs, who came off in whale boats, bringing small presents of fruit, and soliciting in return the priv

ilege of washing the dirty linen, which was graciously con ceded to them. One proof of the progress of civilization of the inhabitants of the island, is their eagerness to obtain soap. Leibig says very truly, that the comparative civilization of a country may be estimated by the quantity of soap consumed in it; and certainly the first evidence of an incipient civilization, is the change from filthy habits to those of cleanliness.

As usual, the first duty of the explorer was to establish an observatory on shore, and to detach parties to survey the four principal ports of the island,-that of Matavai, where the Vincennes anchored, Poapoa, Toanoa and Papieti; all of them much frequented by our whale ships;-while a party of officers and naturalists was sent into the interior, to endeavour to reach the summit of Oroheua, one of the highest peaks of the island, and to visit the lake of Waiheiea. This party was unsuccessful in its attempt to reach the summit of Oroheua, which is estimated, by not a very accurate calculation, to be 8500 feet above the level of the sea. From this mountain and the peak of Aorai, which Captain Hudson found to be 6979 feet above the level of the sea, narrow precipitous ridges diverge to all parts of the coast, throwing off spurs as they descend. The party enjoyed some magnificent views of these spurs, and passed through a country clothed with the luxuriant vegetation of the Tropics, of which the most striking was the fahie or wild banana, (Musa rubra,) with its upright spikes loaded with beautiful fruit, and the tree fern, thirty or forty feet high, girdled with parasitic plants growing with great luxuriance. They reached the lake in safety. It was found to be half a mile in length and one-third of a mile in breadth, with a depth of ninety feet. They found no fish of any sort, although the lake is represented to abound with eels; and but few birds were shot, and those only of common kinds. The account of this journey into the interior of Tahiti is interesting, and narrated in a lively manner.

Captain Wilkes gives full credit to the good intentions of the missionaries, and speaks in high terms of the altered and ameliorated condition of the inhabitants. He found the natives honest, well-behaved and obliging, neither quarrelsome nor thievish, although inveterate beggars, and contrasts very favorably their present with their former state. Enjoying, as they now do, peace under wholesome laws; re

ceiving the advantages of education,-for nearly all the inhabitants can read and write, and possessing a written language; whereas, in former times, these islanders were perpetually harrassed by civil broils, degraded by the most unbounded licentiousness and the most revolting crimes, and debased by the worship of idols, which they propitiated with human sacrifices. While giving the missionaries due credit for what they have done, we cannot but regret, with Captain Wilkes, their want of discretion and practical knowledge of human nature, in attempting to repress the natural, and, in our opinion, the civilizing propensities of this people. They are fond of flowers, of wearing and rearing them, and are compelled to renounce this simple humanizing pleasure, because "it is a vain thing and unbecoming a Christian.” And to prove their sincerity, these pleasing ornaments are banished from the dwellings of the missionaries. The wo men have been induced to adopt the unbecoming and inconvenient European costume, and to abandon the manufacture of their native tapa, which has deprived them of their former employments, and introduced a taste among them for European finery, to obtain which they will make any sacrifice. The bloody conflicts of 1815, which ended in the extermination of one of the parties, was a war of religion, and the difficulties now existing from the overbearing conduct and unauthorized interference of the French naval commanders, had their origin in acts of intolerance on the part of the missionaries. They governed the country,-they framed its constitution, they made its laws,-they issued the regulations which governed the conduct of the natives; and it cannot be denied that their intemperate zeal has brought lasting evil upon the people whom they were anxious to benefit. The love of power is irresistible, and we cannot wonder that the missionaries should be captivated by it, and attempt to produce, by mere force of laws and regulations, those effects which, when intended to be permanent and useful, ought to be the result of persuasion and example. We do not mean to detract from the merits of these men, who have, from the best and purest motives, dedicated themselves to the good work of extending the benefits of the Christian religion; but to point out the inevitable consequences of their attempting to exercise political influence, without having the knowledge and temper required by the legislator; and to suggest to the societies at home, composed