Слике страница
PDF
ePub

CULTURAL METHODS

Preparation of the Soil-A proper preparation of the soil prior to sowing or planting is one of the most important conditions involved in the process of getting a crop. Plowing, subsoiling, harrowing, raking, and (at some stage of the process) manuring constitute the main operations by which the land, after being stripped of a crop, is put into condition to be planted again.

For all garden crops, the ground should be plowed or spaded (according to size) once before an application of manure is made. In the case of all leaf crops, like celery, cabbage, etc., for the first working which is to turn under the manure a depth of six inches is sufficient, as this covers the manure and also leaves it as near the surface as possible.

If the land is hard or lumpy, a harrow or hand-rake should be used to break up the lumps and pulverize the seed-bed. Lumpy uneven ground or coarse soil is not suitable for planting. Seeds will not

germinate uniformly, and the plants will not mature together.

A simple test to determine when garden soil is ready for working is to take a handful of earth from the surface and press it firmly

[graphic]

Fig. 3-Individual Boxes for Forcing Certain Plants.

with the fingers. If the earth compacted in this way is dry enough for cultivation, it will fall apart when the hand is opened. This test is applicable only to comparatively heavy soils, which receive the most injury if they are worked when wet.

Proper Time to Plant the Seed-An old but reliable guide for the proper time to sow vegetable seeds is as follows:

First Period-The blooming of the peach, sow peas.

Second Period-The blooming of the cherry, sow peas, spinach, lettuce, onion-sets, and asparagus roots.

Third Period-The blooming of the pear, all of the above with the addition of radish, celery, carrot, beet, onion seed, parsley, tomato seed, cabbage, and parsnip..

Fourth Period-The blooming of the apple, sow all the preceding with the addition of oyster-plant, beans, corn, cucumber, melon, and pumpkin.

Sowing the Seed-The successful germination of the seed, no matter how carefully sown, must depend largely upon the condition of the

ground. On the other hand, unless the seed is carefully placed in the ground and properly covered, the crop cannot get a good start, regardless of the quality of the seed or how well the land has been prepared. When seed is sown in freshly prepared soil, it will make a much better start than on land which has been turned over long enough to become crusty and lumpy on the surface. It is preferable to sow seed immediately after, rather than just before, a rain, since the crust which forms on the surface after a rain partly shuts out the air and prevents free germination. When a heavy fall of rain occurs just after planting, it is well to go over the ground with a rake, to break the crust. Such treatment may cause a difference of 50 per cent in the stand obtained. In planting seeds with a thick husk, like squash, cucumber, or melon, it is important to have the soil in ideal condition to insure sufficient moisture and air for rapid uniform germination. This is not so important with thin-husked seeds that germinate quickly, such as cabbage, turnip, and radish. The seeds of beets, squashes, parsnips, peas, and beans should be planted deeper than the finer seeds, as the seed covering is thicker, and more moisture is required for germination. Garden seeds are planted at from one-fourth inch to three inches, varying with the size of the seed and the season of the year.

Cultivation of Crops-After the plants are up, frequent stirring of the soil will prove beneficial. There is little danger of stirring the soil

[graphic][merged small]

too often. Do not work the ground when it is too wet. Be sure to keep the soil stirred, and cut down all weeds immediately after the plants come up. This can be done with an ordinary garden hoe. If the weeds are not entirely removed, it will be more difficult to keep them under control during the rest of the season.

Irrigation-When plants give evidence of suffering from lack of moisture during prolonged dry spells, irrigation is necessary. Where a supply of piped water is at hand, the most usual method of irrigation is by sprinkling with a hose. Sprinkling should be practised late in the afternoon. It is not sufficient merely to dampen the surface; a thorough wetting should be given. A more satisfactory and economical method of irrigation is to open small furrows between the rows of growing plants and supply water into these ditches from a hose or pipe. Several hours after the water has soaked in, the dry soil should been drawn back into place.

COLD-FRAME

The cold-frame is very useful in hardening plants that have been taken from the hot-bed and for starting plants in mild climates. It is constructed in much the same way as the hot-bed, except that no manure is used. The frame may be covered either with glass sash or with canvas. A cold-frame may be built on the surface of the ground,

but a more permanent structure suitable for holding plants over winter will require a pit 18 to 24 inches deep. The cold-frame should be filled with a good potting soil. The plants should have more ventilation in the cold-frame, but receive less water, for it is best to keep the soil rather dry.

The plants taken from the cold-frame should be transplanted into ground that has been freshly cultivated. Transplanting to the open field is best done in cool cloudy weather and in the afternoon. This prevents the sun's rays from causing the plant to lose too much moisture through evaporation.

GENERAL INFORMATION ON NEVADA GARDEN CROPS

Asparagus

The value of this plant as a vegetable cannot be overestimated; it is quite extensively grown in Nevada, and, when properly managed, produces a valuable crop. In preparing an asparagus bed that is to stand for any length of time, it is very important to secure good drainage, and on wet soils this is best effected by placing a layer of brick rubbish over the bottom of the bed and connecting this with a drain. On gravelly or other soils which are drained naturally, this is not needed. To obtain the best results from this crop, water should not stand within three feet of the surface.

In all cases the ground must be dug to a depth of 18 inches. Asparagus requires a good soil, neither too heavy nor too light. After the soil is well trenched and settled, a good dressing of well-rotted manure is mixed with the surface soil and forked two or three times before planting. The top dressing of manure should be given annually to the beds. Common garden salt should be applied annually. If scattered over the surface on a showery day, it will readily dissolve and enter the soil. The salt keeps the beds cool in hot weather and prevents the growth of weeds. Asparagus may be planted during the months of March and April, the latter being most desirable. A good plan is to make the beds 3 feet wide, plant two rows 1 foot apart and allow 18 inches between each plant, placing them in alternate order. One-year-old roots give the best results. Make a furrow with a hoe, and plant to the depth of 3 or 4 inches, being careful to spread out the roots thoroughly before covering. Apply water immediately to settle earth around the roots. At all times keep the bed free from weeds. As the foliage turns yellow in the fall, cut it off, rake clean, and leave until March, when a top dressing of manure from 1 to 3 inches may be applied. Cutting may commence the third year, or as soon as there is any grass worth taking. The leading varieties are Conover's Colossal, and Palmetto.

Beans

This familiar crop flourishes best in a rather light gravelly soil, and should never be planted in very heavy land. Beans are extremely sensitive to frost and cold. The bush beans are more hardy than the pole varieties, but, nevertheless, should not be planted until the weather has settled-in northern Nevada, the latter part of May. Nothing is gained by planting beans when the weather is cold, or the land. damp and soggy, as they mature early in the season. When the land is sufficiently warm, select a dry and sheltered location, give the ground

a light dressing of manure, put in a good condition of tilth, and plant in drills or rows. Hoe often, but not when too wet. Plant at intervals until the last of July for a succession.

The distance apart for the rows should be from 3 to 3 feet, and the seed dropped from 4 to 6 inches apart in the row, about 1 inch deep. When the crop is up it should be hoed lightly and at the second hoeing a little earth drawn toward the plants to support them. Beans should never be hoed or worked when wet either by rain or dew, on account of the injury that may occur from rust or blight. The leading varieties for Nevada are Bush Beans, Stringless Green Pod, Refugee Kidney Wax, Golden Wax, Pole Beans, Kentucky Wonder, Scarlet Runner, Golden Cluster.

Beets

Beets do best on a light sandy soil that is free from shade, and that has been previously manured for some other crop. For the first crop, seed should be sown as soon as the ground can be worked in the spring. Sow the first crop rather thick, as it may save reseeding, which is sometimes necessary on account of severe frosts when the young plants are coming up. After the plants have obtained a good foothold, they

[graphic][graphic][subsumed][merged small]

should be thinned to a distance of from 6 to 8 inches apart. The best varieties are Crosby's Egyptian, Detroit Dark Red, Crimson Globe, and Arlington's Favorite. Beet greens are also extensively used.

Cabbage

Cabbage seeds are sown in early spring in the hot-bed, and transplanted in the garden as soon as the ground can be prepared. Place the plants in rows 24 to 30 inches apart and about 15 inches in the row. In growing late cabbage, transplanting usually occurs in July or August. Early cabbage must be used shortly after the heads form, but late cabbage may be stored and used during the winter months.

When the lower sides of the cabbage leaves are affected by leaf aphids or lice, spray the insects and leaves with a solution prepared as follows: Dissolve ounce of soap in water, add ounce of nicotine sulphate, and sufficient water to make a gallon of the solution.

Recommended varieties-Danish Round Head and Danish Ball Head.

Carrots

The tillage, fertilization, and general care of carrots are similar to those of beets. Carrots are never transplanted. They are usually thinned six inches apart in the row. The harvesting season usually commences from July 1 to 10. Plant for the winter crop on good rich soil not later than July 1-and the 1st of June is a safer date to insure a heavy yield.

Winter carrots are harvested from October 1 to 15, and pitted or

stored in a cellar. The leading varieties are Parisian Forcing, Early Scarlet, and Danver's Half Long.

Sweet Corn

Sweet corn, to be at its best, should be eaten within a few hours after it is picked, for its sugar-content disappears very rapidly after it is removed from the garden. For this reason and for its very general popularity, it is an excellent vegetable to grow in the home garden. It should be planted on rich land and cultivated in the same manner as field corn. Beginning as soon as the soil is warm, successive plantings may be made every two or three weeks until late summer. The seed should be planted about 2 inches deep, in drills 3 feet apart, and thinned to a single stalk every 10 to 14 inches. The cultivation should be frequent and thorough, and all weeds should be kept down and suckers removed from around the base of the plant. The best varieties are Golden Bantam, Adams Early, First Crop Sugar, and Howling Mob.

Cucumbers

Cucumbers thrive best on a moist sandy loam soil well supplied with humus. Delay planting until danger of frost has passed. Sow ten seeds in each hill from 1 to 2 inches deep in rows from 4 to 6 feet apart and about 4 feet apart in the row. Later pull all but two or three of the largest plants. Give the ground frequent hoeing until the vines form, after which pull all weeds by hand. Recommended varieties are Farquhar's Perfection and Short Green Gherkin.

Egg-Plant

Sow the seed in the hot-bed or seed-box in early spring, and transplant in the garden in rows 24 to 30 inches apart and 18 inches apart in the row. Delay planting until the ground is warm. Keep the ground loose and moist for rapid growth. The egg-plant will not thrive well on soil too rich in vegetable matter. Black Beauty is a recommended variety.

Lettuce

Lettuce thrives best on a sandy loam soil rich in humus. Sow the seed as early in spring as the ground can be properly worked about inch deep in rows from 15 to 18 inches apart. Later thin plants 4 to 6 inches apart in the row. When head lettuce is desired, transplant the seedlings 5 to 8 inches apart in rows 16 inches apart. Sow seed at intervals of ten days or two weeks. Lettuce does not grow well in the heat of the summer, but produces abundantly during the cool weather in the fall. The recommended varieties are Long Standing and Wonder.

Muskmelon

Muskmelons thrive best on a sandy loam soil well supplied with humus. They are very sensitive to frost; thus are usually planted the last of May or in early June in rows 6 feet apart and 4 feet apart in the row. Plant ten seeds 14 inches deep in each hill and later thin to four healthy plants. Honey Drop is a recommended variety.

Onions

The onion thrives under a wide range of climate and soil conditions, but a rich sandy loam containing plenty of humus is most desirable.

« ПретходнаНастави »