This crop is usually planted as a companion crop, a filler among the slower growing coarser crops, and requires little cultivation beyond that necessary to properly prepare the ground. Radishes can be readily grown to marketable size in three weeks from the time of planting and make a sufficiently rapid growth to keep ahead of the weeds.

In order to have a constant supply of radishes, successive sowings must be made throughout the season, at intervals of about a week. The best rule is to sow seed when the lot preceding has just broken ground. The sowings are then somewhat regulated by weather conditions which vary the rate of growth. It is not good policy to follow one crop of radishes with another, but a better practise is to raise each crop on different ground. The best varieties are French Breakfast, Nonpareil, Non Plus Ultra.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb is now quite extensively grown in Nevada. The general practise is to plant pieces of roots taken from established plants in another bed. The root cuttings may also be obtained from the seed house. Plant the root pieces about 4 feet apart in good rich soil. A row of ten plants will furnish sufficient rhubarb for the average family. In the fall the plants should receive a good top-dressing of manure.

Spinach

Spinach is ready for use early in the spring. It is usually sown about the first of September and at the beginning of winter is protected by a covering of straw or leaves. This crop generally lasts until the first of June, when that sown in the spring will be ready for use. It is sown in drills 2 feet apart and thinned to about 8 inches apart in rows. The crop responds to a liberal amount of manure. For spring sowing, plant the Round Thick-leaved and, for later use, Long Standing. For fall sowing, the Arlington Leaf is the favorite.

Squash

Squash is exceedingly tender, and must not be planted in spring until all danger of frost is past. Plant in rows 6 feet apart with hills 4 feet apart in the rows. A good plan is to put a shovelful of manure in each hill and mix with coal ashes to protect the plant from the borer. Plant the seed about 1 inch deep. The seeds are often planted with a crop of beans or peas, two rows of peas or beans being cultivated in each interval between the squash rows. The beans or peas are harvested early in the season.

When picking for storage, great care should be taken not to bruise the squashes or break off the stems. They should be stored in an even temperature as near 50 degrees as possible. The leading varieties are Mammoth White Bush, Boston Marrow, and Hubbard.

Tomatoes

In Agricultural Extension Leaflet No. 2, C. J. Fairchild presents the following information on tomato culture:

THE HOT-BED: I sow my seed the first week in March in hot-beds, 6x6 feet, which is large enough to grow 2,000 plants. I excavate to a depth of 2 feet and fill with fresh horse manure, a few inches at a time, put in layers and tread in well. A manure with just a medium amount of straw (used as bedding for horses) is best, and not too wet. The

manure should be put in the excavation at least one week before sowing the seed, a thermometer placed several inches below the surface, and the temperature closely watched. If the bed is properly made, the manure will at once begin to heat and perhaps register as high as 120 or 130 degrees in three or four days, but will soon recede and in about four more days will have cooled down. As soon as it is down to 90 degrees you can place about four inches of ordinary soil-light loam is preferable on the bed, having first built a frame of 1x12 inch boards 6x6 feet square, and placed in the bed. You are now ready to sow your seed, after having firmed the soil and watered to a depth of an inch or two with warm water. Sow the seed thinly broadcast and then sift one-fourth inch of soil on the seed and again water lightly. For frame coverings we use the best grade of unbleached muslin. Four yards are sufficient to make a cover for your bed, and I prefer it to glass. Have it sewed together to make a cover 6x6 feet and tack it on a frame of 1x3-inch strips. Place this on your bed tightly. Your hotbed is now completed except, during severe weather at night, use extra covering, such as double burlap or carpet. The bed should be examined each morning, and as fast as dry spots show wet them, so that the seed will germinate properly. In six to ten days the seed should be up. After plants are up, water as little as possible; if the days are warm, air the bed by raising the frame a few inches on the highest side to prevent plants from becoming drawn. As the plants develop, give more ventilation until finally you can take the frame off entirely from late afternoon until evening, so as to gradually harden them.

THE COLD-FRAME: When the plants have attained their true leaves and before they begin to get spindling, which will be in five or six weeks after sowing, transplant into a larger bed made the same as your hotbed, but use no manure for bottom heat. This frame can be made any size you wish. Set the plants 4 to 6 inches each way in ordinary garden soil, not too rich. This frame will need to be 16 inches high to keep the plants from touching the cloth. The plants will grow in a frame of this kind and can be left there until the weather is favorable to transplant in the open ground.

Be sure to harden the plants off by removing the cloth in the daytime. But care must be exercised in this so as not to burn the foliage, which would occur if it is left off during the hottest hours of the day for the first week. After that time the cover can be left off all day in order to harden them sufficiently to withstand transplanting in the open ground.

TRANSPLANTING: Plants should be ready for the open ground in from five to six weeks after setting in this bed. When ready to transplant, water the bed thoroughly at least an hour before removing and block out the squares about 3x3 inches and 4 inches deep with a sharp heavy knife. Convey to field immediately for setting out, having first irrigated the field. As fast as a row is set, turn water through the furrows close enough to the plants, so

that they will readily get what moisture they need. It will be necessary to let the water run for only a short time, for if it should be an extremely hot day, you might burn the foliage. We set in this way, regardless of how hot the day, and seldom have a plant wilt. If the plants are right and handled according to these directions, you will have no trouble on this score.

We set extremely large plants, but well proportioned-a plant about three months old. We never force our plants in beds, as to force them makes them too tender when transplanted; but when we get them in open ground we give them a start by furrowing about 4 inches from the plant and scattering hen-droppings in the furrow-about two waterbucketfuls to 100 feet of row. Then we cover by furrowing 2 inches to one side of the first furrow and run water in last furrow. The water gradually dissolves the manure and the young plants readily get it. It never burns the plants when used in this way. Do not use a larger amount nor nearer than four inches from a newly set plant. After plants have attained a larger growth, do not use it at all, as the ground is full of small fibers and roots and will injure them. If used immediately after the plants are set, it is a great benefit, as it gives them a good quick stimulant just when needed. I would not advise fertilizing in this way after fruit begins to set, as it tends to impair the quality. We use several tons of hen-droppings in this way each

year.

I should say here that it is very essential when taking plants from the cold-frame to the field not to remove any dirt from within 3 inches of each plant while in process of transplanting.

SOIL AND FERTILIZERS: A light sandy loam, well drained, is best for tomatoes. It should not be too rich, as a rich soil gives a large growth of vine at the expense of the fruit. Besides, the fruit comes too late to ripen in this climate.

We use about twenty loads of horse manure per acre, put on in the fall and plowed under at once. In the spring we disk the ground thoroughly and roll so as to leave it well firmed. Tomatoes should not be grown more than two successive seasons on the same ground. For rotation, seed to alfalfa for at least two years.

We set our plants 3 feet each way. A heavier soil would require them to be set 3x3 feet. Twenty tons per acre is not an unusual yield. We seldom need to trim our vines, as we need considerable foliage to protect the tomatoes from sun and scald. If the vines are inclined to grow too rank, it is well to trim to three main stalks, removing suckers as soon as they are noticed and just trim off the tips of the main stalks after a good amount of fruit is set.

Turnips

The turnip thrives best on a sandy or gravelly loam, well enriched and thoroughly worked. Sow the seed one-half inch deep in rows about 14 inches apart, as early in spring as ground can be worked. After the plants have reached the proper size, thin to 6 or 8 inches apart in the row. The Early Milan Top and the Early Purple Top are the principal varieties.

February to March.

8 to 12 weeks.
130 to 150 days.
100 to 125 days.

2 to 4

14 to 36

2

18

14