INTRODUCTION

Nevada made a wonderful showing in 1917 by an increase of more than 200 per cent over previous years in the growing of home gardens by utilizing back yards, vacant lots, and fields not previously cultivated. It has been estimated that several million such gardens were grown last year by this Nation, producing more than three hundred million dollars in food products.

The planting of home gardens was a new venture for many urban residents of Nevada, and a few were unsuccessful. However, the increased knowledge of handling the crops, together with the Nationwide success of the garden movement in 1917, has given a great stimulus to the home gardener this year. On account of the greater demand for food for export in 1918, the people of the Nation are called upon to give more consideration than ever before to this most important movement in food production.

SAVE ON GARDEN SEEDS

The Federal Department of Agriculture has issued a recent statement that there is a shortage of garden seeds, and urges every gardener to buy only the seeds actually required for planting this season, in order that all may be supplied. Plant only on soils that are suitable and properly prepared for vegetable growing. If you have any extra garden seeds, divide with your neighbors.

ACKNOWLEDGMENT

The writer is indebted to J. B. Lynch, in charge of the University Greenhouse, for considerable information concerning varieties of vegetables and their culture; Wm. Stuart, Bureau of Plant Industry, U. S. Department of Agriculture, for Figs. 6 and 7; and to Agricultural Extension Leaflet 6 for Figs. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 10.

NEVADA WAR GARDENS

LOCATION AND CONSTRUCTION OF HOT-BEDS

For a location, a spot facing the south, with a slope in that direction, is the most desirable. After the location has been selected, a fence should be erected 6 feet high, and of the length of the bed to serve as a protection from the wind and as a support for mats and shutters. For convenience, the fence should slant back a little from the bottom, about one foot; it will then form a better support for mats and shutters when leaned against it, and will be much more convenient in working around the beds.

The first plank should be set about 3 feet from the base of the fence and should be 2 inches thick by 12 inches wide. The front plank should be 2 inches narrower. Place the back plank 2 inches above the ground, and hold in place by driving stakes at the end and middle. Continue the planking in this manner until the desired length is reached. The stakes should, of course, be nailed to the planks. Place the front plank 6 feet from the first, and sink into the ground so that the upper edge will be 5 inches lower than the top of the first plank, which makes a slant of 5 inches to carry off the water. Continue this the same length as the first, to obtain a bed 6 feet wide and of the desired length. Shovel out sufficient soil to bank the planks on the outside about half the height, putting in spreaders to keep the planks from crowding in, and the construction is complete.

Supplying the Heat for Hot-Beds-Throw out the soil in the bed to the depth of 24 inches to make room for the manure. Prepare the required heat by selecting moderately coarse horse manure four or five days before using, turning it once or twice. A horse cartload containing about 36 feet is sufficient for a bed 6 feet square, or two sashes,

the depth of the manure being 1 foot. This should be tramped down and made smooth on top; then put in the soil, cover to a depth of 8

Fig. 2-Fruit-Basket Window-Box.

inches, and continue in this manner as far as required.

For heating material, fresh horse manure is generally used. This can be obtained at reasonable rates, and is very satisfactory. The manure may be used on the land after it has served its purpose in the beds; and is then considered worth half the original value. As the manure goes through the process of heating, the ammonia which escapes is of great benefit to the growing crops. The bed should stand a day after it is prepared, to allow the soil to heat through; it is then ready for seeds or plants.

VARIETIES OF VEGETABLES FOR NEVADA

The following is a list of vegetables and the varieties that do particularly well in Nevada:

Asparagus-Conover's Colossal; Palmetto.

Beans-Bountiful Bush; Improved Yellow Six Weeks; Stringless
White Wax.

Beets-Cunison Globe; Wild Summer.

Cabbage-Danish Round Head; Danish Ball Head.
Cauliflower-Danish Giant; Erfurt Earliest Dwarf.

Carrots-Parisian Forcing; Earliest Scarlet French Forcing;
Danver's Half Long Improved.

Celery-Paris Golden Self-Blanching; Boston Market.
Corn-First Crop Sugar; Golden Bantam; Howling Mob; Adams
Early.

Cucumbers Farquhar's Perfection; Short Green Gherkin.

Egg-Plant-Black Beauty.

Kohl Rabi-Earliest White.

Lettuce-Long Standing; Wonder.

Muskmelon-Honey Drop.

Onions-Yellow Globe Danver's; Ailsa Craig; Adriatic Harletto;

Red Wetherfield.

Oyster-Plant-Mammoth Sandwich Island.

Parsnips-Market Model.

Pepper-Sweet Mountain; Neapolitan.

Pumpkin-Sugar or Sweet.

Peas-Prolific Early.

Radish-Nonpareil; Non Plus Ultra.

Rhubarb-Victoria.

Rutabaga-American Purple Top.

Spinach-Farquhar's All Season.

Swiss Chard.

Squash-Mammoth White Bush.

Turnip-Early White Milan; White Egg.