to leeward. The ship was tacked, and we stood off an hour without observing them. We again tacked, and kept the wind until the morning. The report was evidently incorrect, as our position at dawn evinced. By noon we were about fifteen miles off the north end of Sandwich Island, with several smaller in sight in the northern quarter. Our course was shaped to clear the island of Mallicolo, which at sunset was not visible. Wind easterly, with very unpleasant cross swell from S.W., as well as S.E.

It was my intention to touch at the island of Guadalcanar, or the nearest convenient spot in that meridian. On the morning of the 1st July we made the island; weather very unsettled, heavy rain and squalls, and making but little progress against a strong S.W. current. By noon we had reached a small islet off the northern point; but experienced a very unpleasant sea, and heavy breakers were noticed extending a considerable distance in the offing.

Quitting the ship, I ran in with the Starling, until she reached seven fathoms, when, disliking the sea then running, which would have prevented her clawing off in the event of danger, I proceeded in my gig to examine the inner side of the island. Unfortunately no depth for safe anchorage could be found, although the facility for landing rendered this a most eligible spot for our operations. I had previously intended standing, off and on, during the night, and landing in the morning, but on my

return to the ship, finding the current set strong towards the breakers, and moreover having split our foresail, the ship being very uneasy, I determined on seeking a more eligible situation, and bore away for New Ireland.

The breeze favoured us, but a strong current from N.E. prevented our making the land on the evening of the 4th. Unfortunately we had no meridian observation on that day, and heavy squalls with thunder, lightning, and rain, (or the customary rainy season of this region,) overtook us about eight o'clock, at the very moment when we hoped to reach our port.

About four A. M., we found ourselves close in with the breakers, the squall providentially clearing up just in time to wear clear of destruction. Calms and baffling winds ensued, preventing our reaching our port by daylight; but the weather proving fine, and obtaining a fair view of the landmarks, we had no hesitation in running in by night,-although it had been well if Carteret had stated that the passage between the Booby and the main was unsafe. Between the flaws and warping we reached our anchorage in port Carteret by midnight; affording to our crew a good night's rest, instead of knocking about at the mercy of swell and currents outside. We were fortunate, as the rains recommenced at dawn, and continued with slight intermission during the whole period of our visit.

On the second day we succeeded in securing our

principal observations, and the main triangulation of port Carteret. I then joined the Starling, and proceeded to complete the coast as far as Cape St. George, leaving the Sulphur to complete wood, water, &c. Rain still impeded us, but by perseverance and taking every advantage which offered, this was eventually achieved.

This southern bay is termed Gower's Harbour and English Cove. The latter is more peculiarly adapted for watering, but does not afford sufficient facility for ingress or egress without towing. At the southern extremity of Gower's Harbour, we fell in with a party of five natives, one of whom spoke a little English. From him we learned that the visits of British vessels from Sidney were frequent; that the natives who communicated with them resided on the eastern side of the island; and that their supplies consisted chiefly of wild hogs, fruit, and vegetables. He was anxious to sleep on board the schooner, to which we consented, and his allies, youths from sixteen to eighteen, were despatched home, with directions to return the following morning with stock, &c.

The inclemency of the weather, I suspect, prevented this, and our labours having terminated, our new friend "Tom Starling" (for Jack seldom fails to christen his friends) was landed, and we rejoined the Sulphur that evening.

"Tom Starling" informed us "that the rains would cease in one moon, and that they would then

be considerably more oppressed by the sun." The continuance of the torrents of rain has certainly surpassed anything I have before observed in any other clime. Our good fortune, however permitted us to obtain sufficient sun the day following our return, to rate our chronometers, and thus released us from further sojourn in this land of moisture.

Just on the eve of departure, half a dozen miserable half-drowned natives came down to the watering place, bringing a cooked pig, with a few bad specimens of bread fruit. They did not understand English, and having presented them with a few beads and other articles, they were relanded, taking with them their pig, &c. They were entirely naked, very slightly made, and resemble much the natives of Tanna, the hair in the same minute queues, with bushy points, although not bound up.

On the morning of the 16th, having embarked the observatory, we quitted Port Carteret; the day beautifully fine, but wind light.

future

Having examined the range comprehending Ports Carteret and Gower, I should certainly on any visit prefer what in our survey I have designated Port Sulphur, as that under every circumstance the best adapted for wooding and watering, ingress and egress under canvas, and affording, what is most important, convenient depth for anchorage.

In Gower's harbour the depth is not only inconvenient, being thirty fathoms, but there is great liability to drag off the bank. In English Cove the

swell sets in so heavily at times that it may be difficult, or impossible, to tow, and watering is not so convenient as in Sulphur Bay.

For a temporary supply without intending to anchor, the stream at the southern bay in Gower's Harbour will be found most convenient, as a vessel might drop towards the passage through Gower's Harbour, and pass out by Turtle Bay. The anchorage in Turtle Bay is bad, by reason of the rocky bottom as well as great depth.

During our stay there, for two days, in the Starling, we experienced the shock of an earthquake, which led us to believe that we were dragging over rocks. The same was experienced on board the ship at the same instant, and those on shore state that they felt the undulation strongly.

Fuel of the best quality is to be had at the beach in any of these harbours, as well as fancy woods for cabinet making, including tamanu, ebony, &c. The nutmeg was found, but not abundant, nor of the kind valued in commerce.

Although Captain Carteret named the greater island in Port Carteret Cocoa Island, from the abundance of cocoa nuts found there at the period of his visit, not a single tree of this fruit now exists. The bastard sago palm, pandanus, &c., grow luxuriantly, although the depth of soil is literally nothing, the trees rising through the loose limestone rock.

The structure of the reefs, points, cliffs, &c., in this region is entirely limestone, frequently crystallized,