On the afternoon of the 6th of August we moved with a light air and current from the eastward; and the water continuing to decrease, hauled off, until we reached fifteen fathoms. Much to our astonishment, several strange sail were reported, and they rapidly increased to a fleet, as we imagined, of canoes.

Having, however, directed our course towards the nearest, we grazed it sufficiently to sweep our copper well, as it proved a large peat island, with a palm bush.

Several sea-snakes were observed, differing from those generally noticed, and one taken in the trawl was preserved. A rare nondescript shell also taken.

The openings in the coast became more numerous, and left little doubt that our pigmy fleet resulted from the islands abreast of us. The depth at eight or nine miles from the land being only nine fathoms, prevented our making any close examination of the coast, and at dark we dropped anchor for the night.

In the morning we resumed our course, and succeeded in detaching several of the western group of islands, which at length showed us a passage between the westernmost, and what we assumed to be the island of Jobie on the charts.

Through this channel a strong tide set against us, compelling us again to drop anchor. Many canoes came off from the low islands near us, on which we could discern several villages, the houses, however, exhibiting red roofs, which, from the material employed *Assumed, nothing like the chart.

90

CANOES AND WEAPONS OF NATIVES. [1840.

for the construction of their buckets, I suspect to be the palm-sheath, of which several neat little buckets, which we obtained, were constructed.

The natives of these islands were superior in features, cleanliness, &c., to any who had yet visited us. Their canoes were better finished, their weapons more numerous, and the numbers in each occasionally amounted to eighteen. They were furnished with double outriggers, and set their mat sail, sheer fashion, on a tripod, serving for stay as well as rigging: masts, therefore, they had not.

Their arrows were invariably three feet in length, as if by law. The bows were rough, but strong and serviceable. They were not intimidated by firearms, excepting the first single canoe which visited us, probably to report. They even came on board by the quarters without invitation, although they could not be persuaded to come alongside to traffic. This evinced some little knowledge of war tactics. We noticed that in their approach they observed a very ceremonious distance and pace in passing the broadside, but on completing the circuit as far as the quarter, pulled up for the stern. They were evidently aware of the use of the ports, as well as the destructive engines concealed within, and that the quarter was the weakest point.

In their traffic they evinced more than usual knowledge of useful articles, and plainly intimated that knives or cloth must be the trading medium. We obtained but little from them in return, but

bows, arrows, a few birds of paradise, and ba

nanas.

The head costume differs from those previously seen. The hair is well combed, and drawn through ornamented tubes of bamboo, about one inch and a half in diameter by four in length. In one instance a very fine well-featured lad, apparently a dandy in his way, had five of these ornaments, although they were seldom observed with more than two. A peculiar comb, like a toasting fork, having a pendant at its extremity, is stuck in the coronal tuft, and projects in front about two feet, standing, when the body and head is erect, about ten inches above the line of the eyebrows.

They were apparently under control of a chief who was present, though we could not ascertain which was he. They were very good-tempered, and anxious that we should visit their towns. In build, manners, &c., they were of a superior cast; the features of some of them, particularly those from eighteen to twenty-five, being remarkably handsome, and of a light copper colour. The elders were fine healthy pleasant featured and vigorous men. Apparently, they were above cunning, and were quite independent in their manner. They have evidently been accustomed to visits from Europeans; as they displayed iron, steel, and cloths, and perfectly comprehended that our colours were English.

About two o'clock, the tide having changed, and

brought a breeze from S.E., we weighed, and steered through the passage between the western low island and Jobie, the water deepening as we entered the channel (which is about three miles wide) to thirtysix fathoms.

Having hauled to the westward for the night, we were visited by heavy rain, thunder, and lightning, which lasted until daylight, when I transferred myself to the Starling, in order to seek for convenient anchorage, as well as a good position for rating the chronometers.

Fortunately we picked up a very snug berth, in time to save our observations, and fixed upon a detached limestone clump, half a mile from the main island, completely adapted for our magnetic observations. The ship anchored within hail, in nineteen fathoms, tough clay.

The size and detached position of our rock prevented the chance of molestation from visitors, as not more than ourselves and instruments could find footing.

The natives came off to the vicinity of our position, but giving them to understand that we could not have any communication with them, they quietly retired to the nearest beach, apparently awaiting our pleasure. At sunset, finding that we still remained in the same mood, they retired.

The canoes of this party, which I shall term "state canoes," and which were probably only intended for the inner waters, differed essentially